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2019 IFSC Combined Qualifier

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2019 IFSC Combined Qualifier
LocationFrance Toulouse, France
Dates28 November – 1 December 2019
Competitors44 from 19 nations
Champions
MenJapan Kokoro Fujii
WomenJapan Futaba Ito

The 2019 IFSC Combined Qualifier was an Olympic Qualifying Event. It was held from 28 November to 1 December 2019 in Toulouse, France. It was organized by the French Federation of Sport Climbing and Mountaineering or FFME (Federation Francaise Montagne Escalade). The athletes competed in combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead, simulating the 2020 Olympics format. Six athletes per gender would qualify for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics through this event. The winner for men was Kokoro Fujii and for women was Futaba Ito.[1][2]

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

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Main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

The six best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are six spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country. Japan had already filled their maximum quota of two athletes per gender, so no more athletes were going to qualify for the Olympics through this event.

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 IFSC Combined Qualifier event were:

2020 Summer Olympic Qualifiers
Men Women

 Adam Ondra (CZE)
 Bassa Mawem (FRA)
 Jan Hojer (GER)
 Yufei Pan (CHN)
 Alberto Ginés López (ESP)
 Nathaniel Coleman (USA)

 Julia Chanourdie (FRA)
 Mia Krampl (SLO)
 Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)
 Kyra Condie (USA)
 Laura Rogora (ITA)
 Yiling Song (CHN)

Competition format

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In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the final round.

In speed climbing, climbers raced against each other's in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the final round. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest winning.

In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.

Route-setting

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Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The IFSC route-setters were Manuel Hassler (chief) from Switzerland and Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Romain Cabessut from France, Matthias Woitzuck from Austria, Martin Hammerer from Austria, and Remi Samyn from France.[1]

The IFSC Technical Delegate was Fabrizio Minnino from Italy. The IFSC Jury President was Johannes Altner from Germany. The IFSC Judge was Paul Ledet from Canada.[1]

Schedule

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Date Nov 28 Nov 29 Nov 30 Dec 1
Men S Qualification: Speed climbing B Qualification: Bouldering L Qualification: Lead climbing S Finals: Speed climbing B Finals: Bouldering L Finals: Lead climbing
Women S Qualification: Speed climbing B Qualification: Bouldering L Qualification: Lead climbing S Finals: Speed climbing B Finals: Bouldering L Finals: Lead climbing
Legend: S = Speed, B = Bouldering, L =Lead
Q Qualification F Finals

Participating nations

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44 climbers from 19 nations participated in the event. Athletes were invited based on the 2019 IFSC World Cup Combined Ranking and 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships Combined Ranking. Athletes who were already qualified for the Olympics would not be invited.[3]

Men

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Rank Name Nation Qualifications[4][5][6] Finals[7][8]
S B L CP S B L CP
1st place, gold medalist(s) Kokoro Fujii  Japan 8 4 14 448 5 2 2 20
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Adam Ondra  Czech Republic 14 2 1 28 8 3 1 24
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Meichi Narasaki  Japan 9 3 18 486 4 1 7 28
4 Bassa Mawem  France 1 21 20 420 1 8 8 64
5 Jan Hojer  Germany 3 13 8 312 2 7 5 70
6 Yufei Pan  China 7 1 7 49 3 4 6 72
7 Alberto Ginés López  Spain 11 11 2.5 302.5 7 5 3 105
8 Nathaniel Coleman  United States 6 5 15 450 6 6 4 144
9 Sean Bailey  United States 19 6 5 570 —
10 Keita Dohi  Japan 4 12 13 624
11 Nikolai Iarilovets  Russia 5 14 12 840
12 Stefano Ghisolfi  Italy 21 16 2.5 840
13 Alfian Muhammad Fajri  Indonesia 2 22 21 924
14 William Bosi  Great Britain 12 9 9 972
15 Sascha Lehmann  Switzerland 18 19 4 1368
16 Rei Sugimoto  Japan 13 10 11 1430
17 Jongwon Chon  South Korea 10 8 19 1520
18 Yannick Flohe  Germany 15 20 6 1800
19 Jernej Kruder  Slovenia 17 7 16 1904
20 Aleksey Rubtsov  Russia 22 15 10 3300
21 Anze Peharc  Slovenia 20 17 17 5780
22 Manuel Cornu  France 16 18 22 6336

Women

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Rank Name Nation Qualifications[9][10][11] Finals[12][13]
S B L CP S B L CP
1st place, gold medalist(s) Futaba Ito  Japan 7 7 8 392 4 1 7 28
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Julia Chanourdie  France 10 6 7 420 3 5 2 30
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Mia Krampl  Slovenia 20 3 2 120 7 7 1 49
4 Lucka Rakovec  Slovenia 15 1 3 45 6 3 3 54
5 Ai Mori  Japan 22 2 1 44 8 2 4 64
6 Iuliia Kaplina  Russia 1 21 21 441 1 8 8 64
7 Kyra Condie  United States 6 8 11 528 2 6 6 72
8 Laura Rogora  Italy 16 4 4 256 5 4 5 100
9 Yiling Song  China 2 20 19 760 —
10 Fanny Gibert  France 13 5 12 780
11 Margo Hayes  United States 19 10 5 950
12 Sandra Lettner  Austria 8 14 9 1008
13 Alannah Yip  Canada 12 9 10 1080
14 Jain Kim  South Korea 14 15 6 1260
15 Anouck Jaubert  France 4 18 20 1440
16 Aries Susanti Rahayu  Indonesia 3 22 22 1452
17 Aleksandra Kałucka  Poland 5 19 18 1710
18 Sol Sa  South Korea 9 16 13 1872
19 Yuetong Zhang  China 11 17 14 2618
20 Ievgeniia Kazbekova  Ukraine 17 11 15 2805
21 Elnaz Rekabi  Iran 18 13 17 3978
22 Ashima Shiraishi  United States 21 12 16 4032

References

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  1. ^ a b c "2019 IFSC Combined Qualifier Info sheet" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2019-10-14.
  2. ^ "IFSC Combined Qualifier - Toulouse/Tournefeuille (FRA) 2019". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-08-29.
  3. ^ John Burgman (February 18, 2019). "How climbers will be chosen for the 2020 olympics". Climbing.com.
  4. ^ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Men Qualifications - SPEED, retrieved 2021-08-29
  5. ^ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Men Qualifications - BOULDER, retrieved 2021-08-29
  6. ^ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Men Qualifications - LEAD, retrieved 2021-08-29
  7. ^ "GENERAL RESULT COMBINED MEN". Archived from the original on 2020-06-28.
  8. ^ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Men - FINALS, retrieved 2021-08-29
  9. ^ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Women Qualifications - SPEED, retrieved 2021-08-29
  10. ^ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Women Qualifications - BOULDER, retrieved 2021-08-29
  11. ^ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Women Qualifications - LEAD, retrieved 2021-08-29
  12. ^ "GENERAL RESULT COMBINED WOMEN". Archived from the original on 2020-09-26.
  13. ^ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Women - FINALS, retrieved 2021-08-29
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