Jan Hojer

Jan Hojer
	Hojer in 2018
Personal information
Nationality	German
Born	February 9, 1992 (age 32); Cologne, Germany
Occupation	Professional rock climber
Height	188 cm (6 ft 2 in)
Weight	77 kg (170 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber	Bouldering; Sport climbing; Competition climbing;
Ape index	+10 cm (4 in)
Highest grade	Redpoint: 9a (5.14d); ; Bouldering: 8C (V15);
Known for	Winning one World Cup and two European Championships
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing Germany
World Championships
World Cup
European Championships
The World Games
	Updated on 21 September 2018

Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015.^[1]

In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering.^[1] Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wroclaw, Poland.

Hojer has won national championships in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed.

In 2019 Hojer qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in Toulouse.^[2] Hojer finished 12th out of 20 at the Tokyo Olympics.

Rock climbing

He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. In May 2010, he redpointed the sport climbing route, Action Directe. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several outdoor bouldering problems at the grade of 8C (V15). In 2018, he made the third ascent of the deep-water soloing route, Es Pontàs at 9a+ (5.15a).

Results

Climbing World Cup

Discipline^[3]	2008	2009	2010	2011	2012	2013	2014	2015	2016	2017
Lead	22	22	43	-	-	-	-	33	-	17
Bouldering	-	-	-	33	20	8	1	2	9	7
Speed	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	29
Combined	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	5	-	7

Climbing World Championships

Discipline^[1]	2009	2011	2012	2014	2016	2018
Lead	30	-	-	30	-	29
Bouldering	39	46	5	3	27	9
Speed	-	-	-	30	-	33
Combined	-	-	-	2	-	3

Climbing European Championships

Discipline^[1]	2010	2013	2015	2017
Lead	41	-	-	21
Bouldering	-	20	1	1
Speed	-	-	-	23
Combined	-	-	-	1

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Bouldering

Season^[1]	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2012			1	1
2013	1	1		2
2014	3	2		5
2015	1			1
2016		1		1
2017	1			1
2018				0
2019			1	1
Total	6	4	2	12

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9a+ (5.15a):

Es Pontàs - Mallorca (ESP) - October, 2018

9a (5.14d):

Action Directe - Frankenjura (DEU)- May 22, 2010

8c+ (5.14c):

Pati noso - Siurana (ESP) - April 27, 2011
Bah Bah Black Sheep - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2010

Boulder problems

8C (V15):

Quoi de Neuf - Fontainebleau (FRA) - November 21, 2017^[4]
From Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - March 8, 2015
The Story of Two Worlds - Cresciano (CHE) - April 11, 2014^[5]
Le Marathon de Boissy - Fontainebleau (FRA) - March 2014 - First ascent.^[6]
Trip Hop - Fontainebleau (FRA) - October 2013
The Big Island - Fontainebleau (FRA) - January 2013.^[7]

8B+ (V14):

Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb.^[8]
Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."^[9]

References

^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Hojer's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
^ "These Six Climbers Are Now Going to the Olympics". Gripped Magazine. 28 November 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
^ Quoi de Neuf 8c jan hojer
^ Hojer sends The Story of Two Worlds V15
^ Le Marathon de Boissy 8c Boissy aux Cailles
^ Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.
^ Comments about Jour de Chasse on 8a.nu
^ Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu

External links

Jan Hojer at the International Federation of Sport Climbing (archive)

[IFSC_profile-1] IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Hojer's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.

[2] "These Six Climbers Are Now Going to the Olympics". Gripped Magazine. 28 November 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.

[IFSC_Worldcups-3] IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.

[4] Quoi de Neuf 8c jan hojer

[5] Hojer sends The Story of Two Worlds V15

[6] Le Marathon de Boissy 8c Boissy aux Cailles

[7] Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.

[8] Comments about Jour de Chasse on 8a.nu

[9] Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu

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