User talk:Jfn41791/WomensOversizedFashionintheUnitedStates

This page is about the fashion style. For other fashion trend named "Plus-size clothing", see Plus-size clothing.

Women's Oversized Fashion in the United States: 1920s-2000s

Overview

Oversized fashion, distinct from plus-sized fashion, consists of clothing and other accessories that are larger than normal and reflect some sort of attitude, message, or trend of the period at hand. Although oversized fashion trends from the 1920s to the turn of the century vary from decade to decade, there are many overarching themes that have been expressed during the past one hundred or so years. Masculinity, for example, has played a large role in many of the underlying communications of the fashions. Virility, nevertheless, manifests differently in the clothing depending on the era. Oversized fashion production, furthermore, runs largely parallel with the states of the American and global economies. Modernly, oversized fashion has taken on a new form - primarily in the realm of oversized accessories. As time progresses and fashion continues to change, nonetheless, only time will tell how oversized fashion will next be presented.

The 1920s

Chiffon Evening Dress 1921

The 1920s were marked by a post-war aesthetic. After World War I, the fashion world experienced a great switch; from tight corsets and hobble skirts—to shapeless, oversized, and sparsely decorated garments . During this same era, women began to wear more comfortable fashions, which included blousy skirts and trousers. Further, this era gave birth to sportswear fashion. Sportswear, previously recognized as America’s main contribution to fashion, consisted of a casual more relaxed style . Coco Chanel , known as the first modern dressmaker, created one of the greatest contribution to the 1920s style: the two-piece dress. She created two-piece dresses out of jersey (fabric), a very comfortable stretchy fabric . The American public was rather receptive, embracing this relaxed oversized style, perfect for the active woman on the go. The combination of these new ideas yielded this loosely fitted, modernized style.

‘The Boyish Figure,’ moreover, became one of the most prevalent trends of the era. This fashion consisted of flattened chests, shapeless silhouettes and drop waistline (clothing), which gave more masculine looks to the female figure. The emphasis of the flattened chest revolutionized the construction for undergarments. Along with this new silhouette came electric sewing, which further modernized the 20’s fashions. A new generation of sewing machines came about, each one with an individual electric motor. The coming about of the sewing machine enabled fashion designers to create more oversized fashions, while saving time, resources, and money.

Contrasting to 'The Boyish Figure' were the types of hats and accessories women in the 1920s wore . Women who dressed as flappers wore oversized hats, which created visual juxtapositions with the commonly short haircuts at the time. Within these hats were oftentimes outfitted with large bows, feathers, ribbons, or sequins. Furthermore, oversized and bold headbands were often worn by women to compliment their customarily shorter hair lengths. Due to the fact that a lot of the women's fashion from this decade was quite masculine in nature, many women adorned accessories that were rather feminine.

Music also had an influence in the ways in which fashions evolved. The Jazz Age embraced fashion with the popularization of flaps in dresses; and in turn, many new celebrities were born. Stars like Josephine Baker, entertainer, were known for their semi translucent flapper frocks. In this post war era, the female body was focused on the embodiment of the male figure. Oversized clothing was not a particular trend it was the way in that fashion was developed during the time.

The 1930s

Model sporting altered flowy ensemble 1930

The 1930s, which followed the roaring twenties and started in depression, ended with the start of World War II. With rising unemployment and despair, it was easy to overlook the importance of fashion during this time period. No industry was left unaffected by the depression. In the fashion industry, designers cut their prices and produced new lines of ready-to-wear clothes, along with clothing made of more economical and washable fabrics, such as rayon and nylon . For example, Coco Chanel showed a collection of evening dresses made of cotton and sold dresses 50% off. The fashions of the 1930s were stylish and elegant, with flowing lines and Paris-based coutures.

Due to the fact that many women could not afford to update their wardrobes, women changed their looks through the use of alterations, exemplifying the oversized fashion of the 1930s . Women used lengthening bands of contrasting fabric and added fur to their hems. It is this inventive way to put together new articles of clothing that gave birth to the 'Feedsack Dress'. These dresses were constructed from the material of a sack of animal feed. These frocks were typically cut similar to shift dresses. This A-line cuts were very boxy and contrasted the slinky and sensual Bias cut dresses which became famous during the same era for their ability to cover the woman's body while clinging to each curve.Furthermore, material was added to collars and sleeves. Another trend that rose from the 1930's was the 'Banjo Sleeve'. This sleeve was created by sewing two rectangular pieces of fabric with the top seam only sewn half way to allow the arm to flow out. The boxy shape was oversized and blousy. As the era progressed, skirts that flared out fell to the bottom of the calf and sleeves were loosely tied as they fell from the elbow to wrist.

From the harsh economic conditions of the time came about the glamorous 1930s in film. The glamorous dresses worn in the films grew in popularity. While the glamor exuded from the 30s did not compare to the 20s great effort was put into mimicking the previous era.These dresses were mainly constructed from Chiffon fabric. The dresses were rather loose as they flew away from the body . They embodied the elegance that was maintained throughout the 1930's despite the economic struggles.

The 1940s

San Diego nurses in pleaded skirts 1944

During the first half of the 1940s, many clothing-related commodities were in short supply due to World War II; the United States Government relinquished numerous products for utilization in warfare. Leather, for example, was enormously used in the uniforms of American servicemen—so the material, to a large extent, went out of use in mainstream fashion. As a consequence of the relinquishing of materials, oversized fashion, which utilizes excessive amounts of material, was not in-style.

Designers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga, Digby Morton, and Norman Hartnell, however, utilized oversized fashion practices in their early 1940s collections to manifest the consequential happenings of the war. Because numerous men were abroad taking up arms, many women took on their positions in factories and offices. Attributable to women supplanting men in the workplace, women’s fashion became more masculine and employed oversized design. Wide-legged slacks and pronounced shoulder pads came to be all the rage, and most American women embraced the virile style.

Not until the second half of the decade, though, with the introduction of Dior’s “New Look,” was oversized fashion widely put to use. Dior’s “New Look,” which firstly grew in popularity in Europe, featured full skirts that reached womens’ mid-calves. When Dior initially set in motion the “New Look” style, the fashion house received a lot of criticism. Sir Stafford Cripps, the then President of the Britain’s Board of Trade, was quoted as saying that the “New Look” was “utterly stupid” and an enormous waste of labor and materials. Cripps was not the only one opposed to the excessive usage of material. In the U.S, due to the lack of resources, legislation was passed which restricted yardage in clothing. The policy related to the restricting of fabric was entitled, L-85.

Many American citizens reverberated the sentiment of the new legislation, with resistance groups being formed such as the “A Little Below the Knee Club” in Texas. However, in the U.S, Dior’s "New Look" was also shaping the trends of the time. Designer Claire McCardell, influenced by Parisian design, created the monastic dress, in jersey, which featured a criss-cross string belt at midriff and a draped full skirt. A few years later, however, once World War II ended, the “New Look” and its oversized flair was enormously relished both within the fashion world and the consumer market.

The 1950s

Audrey Hepburn in "Roman Holiday"

The 1950s, the post-war era, brought a change to the family dynamic, as well as a change to the fashion world. In 1947, Christian Dior launched his ‘Corelle line’ as the first collection from his fashion house, which featured oversized designs. This ‘Corelle line’ became the look of the decade as it ushered in femininity, luxury and grace to this era. Most importantly, it had a large effect on the female silhouette. This change implemented by Christian Dior dominated the decade .

To briefly describe this era, clothes transformed from boxy styles, with square shoulders, to feminine and luxurious, complete with soft shoulder lines, corseted waists, round padded hips, and long skirts leading to the knee-length 'sack' dress. The knee-length skirts and dresses were the most oversized items of this 1950s. The introduction of new fabrics allowed for new fashion styles to be both created and introduced. These new fabrics included Terylene, Orlon, Banlon, Acrilan, and Poplin. Other sample fashions introduced were, the ‘wash-and-wear’ sweater, the permanently pleated skirt, and the ‘drip-dry’ skirt. Skirts of this era known as circle skirts were supported by layers of petticoats, creating a circular look accentuating the waist line. The petticoat was essential because it reinforced the femininity of this time period .

The 1950s woman also tended to be influenced by the fashions wore by movie stars such as Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn famous for her roles in various movies such as Roman Holiday wore an oversized skirt, which accentuated her waist highlighting the fashion of the era with a tighter shirt.

The 1960s

Mrs.Kennedy and President of Tunisia (Mr. Habib Bourguiba) with Wife (Mrs. Bourguiba)

In contrast to the “New Look” developed in the end of the 1940s that heavily influenced trends of the 1950s with femininity and sensuality, the look of the 1960s was different. The look of the 1960s reflected the main issue of that time: Civil Rights. The 1960s woman “demanded equal rights and equal pay, wanted to be free, to look young and to have fun” . Oversized fashions were utilized in more subtle ways in this decade, giving birth to big trends that revolutionized the working woman and gave a voice to more conservative feminines.

To achieve this youthful and flirty look, skirts were shortened, creating a look reminiscent of the 1920s. During this era, in 1965, the mini skirt was developed. An alternative to this exposed look was in high demand, thus leading to the creation of the “midi” skirt. This new ‘midi’ mainly featured pleated A line bodice which allowed it to flow away from the body. This oversized fashion began to make its way to the workplace as it provided both femininity and formality. Evening wear too was affected, as now both long and short dresses could be seen at engagements. Designs embraced the oversized look through more elegant silhouettes, specially in the evening wear which boasted loose forms and fluid fabrics. The change in fashion during this time period is also due to international influences such as London and France where ironically designers were young. An interesting thing to note about this time period is that women also began to wear pants-suits and jeans.

The materials used to create both clothing and accessories changed during this era. Compared to fabrics used in the 1950s, easy- care synthetic fabrics were used, such as Crimplene, Dacron and Terylene. The benefits of using easy-care synthetic fabrics meant the materials were crease resistant, easy to wash with little to no ironing time. Designers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga embraced this new type of materials and gave birth the oversized dolman sleeve jackets. The pattern for this piece was cut in a rectangular shape forming a boxy blousy look.

To also complement the theme of this period, synthetic yarns which took dyes easily were used. To create this vibrant feel also on accessories such as shoes, umbrellas and additional clothing items such as mini-skirts, leather-look plastic was also used . While in this era, clothing became split along lines of age, there were overriding oversized trends including: midi skirts, dolman sleeves, loose jackets and shapeless frocks. Another factor contributing to the trends of this period was the “post-industrial boom” which helped to generate wealth in the United States. Jackie Kennedy the wife of President John F. Kennedy became a model of French fashions, along with Twiggy helping to spur the spread of the miniskirt. Twiggy iconicity grew as she became the face and body for the shapeless mod dresses, a huge trend of the time. In contrast, Jackie Kennedy’s hair was the “beehive” style, also highlighting oversized fashion.

The 1970s

Fashion circa 1973

The 1970s is often referred to as the “Me Decade” , a term originally coined by writer Tom Wolfe. There were many groups, such as political and extremist groups, wanting a piece of the action. With respect to dress, it was an “anything goes” era, or one without rules. This manifested in some ways via the production of oversized fashion.

With “anything goes” as the tone for the era, fashion styles were inspired by previous decades, hinting at both nostalgia and an interest in other cultures. The current political and economic situation of the United States, including the civil rights, unemployment levels, war and terrorism were reflected in the manner in which individuals dressed. As the Women’s movement came into the 1970s, radical feminists could be stereotyped for their anti-high fashion sentiments; these women required low maintenance and made a statement. In regards to high fashion, established fashion houses seen with strong presences in other eras produced more ready to wear collections and casual attire.

As nostalgia was a big theme of this time period, secondhand clothes were key. Similar to the 1950s, 1920s clothing also influenced this decade, along with fashions of the 30s, 40s and 50s. Television and movies, such as The Godfather and Grease, also played odes to styles of the past. When not inspired nostalgia, fashion took another turn “ the idea was to appear as if your body had been spray painted” . To achieve this look, leotards were worn and were accessorized with short frilled skirts, cap sleeves and leg warmers . “Hot pants” or skimpy shorts were also popular in the beginning of the 70s. By the mid 1970s, we see the reemergence of “unstructured design” from the fashion houses . These were considered the simplest cuts, appearing to look as if no skillful cutting was required. An example of this cut is Issey Miyake’s wool cowboy look for winter 1978-1979; an example of experimentation in textured knitting. The unstructured design of the 1970s highlights the oversized fashion of the decade.

The 1980s

File:Avec Grace Jones (1978).jpg

Grace Jones pictured on the far left

The beginning of the 1980s was truly the first time in which women assumed high-status roles in the workplace. Akin to the 1940s, women’s fashion in the 1980s was quite masculine, which was largely a reflection of women wanting to be taken seriously as working professionals. The three most important designers at the start of this decade, Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, and Ralph Lauren, were designing clothing that was characterized by broad and square shoulders. This use of oversized shoulders was largely a demonstration of women not wanting to be viewed by their feminine figures, but rather to be viewed equally in their careers.

Designers other than Klein, Armani, and Lauren, such as Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto, began designing with a Japanese-inspired aesthetics. Clothing became much more oversized to better resemble kimonos and other flowing Japanese garments. Much like the use of oversized shoulders, this Japanese style was meant to disguise the womanly shape. Even non-Japanese designers like Donna Karan, who became known at the time as “the Queen of 7th Avenue,” began utilizing this Japanese style of dress.

[[:File:Princess_Diana_wedding_dress.png|thumb|left|Princess Diana's oversized wedding dress]]

Figures both within the fashion world and outside of the fashion world took on this gender-neutral style of fashion and made the look evermore popular. Singer, actress, and model Grace Jones was a key figure in furthering this type of fashion—keeping her hair short and wearing very manly, oversized clothing. Scottish singer Annie Lennox did the same, but had much more of an effect in the musical realm. Another essential person who helped further the style of oversized fashion in the 1980s was Princess Diana. Princess Diana, who married Charles, Prince of Wales in July of 1981, wore an oversized wedding dress—making the tailor popular all around the world for the remainder of the decade.

The 1990s

Singer Ciara performing in oversized t-shirt and sports bra

The 1990s was one of the most diverse eras for fashion. As the fashion world began to experience technological modernization, along with a widespread support from mainstream consumers, the industry felt the need to appeal to different types of audiences. Some of the women’s fashion trends included, neon and pastel colors, legging and exercise wear, the hippie look, designer clothes, and a hip-hop style . The last of those examples, hip hop style, is identifiable as the oversized fashion of the 90s. The influence of hip-hop on the urban fashion was overtly strong. Urban fashion was distinctly designed for African American youth. The 1990s urban fashion is also influenced by the uproar of Black Nationalism in the country at the time.

The urban trend heavily influenced by Black Nationalism and African trends began with the blousy pant sported by famous figures in the rap world as: MC Hammer who gave birth to the popularized oversized trend of oversized 'hammer pants, and Fezzes. However, men were not the only ones to embrace this new form of street wear. Women too began to explore this new trend. The group TLC (band) and R&B singer Aaliyah created their own urban fashion for women . Although this women were majorly of color, their style was known by mainstream. The trend consisted of wearing oversized pants and big flannel shirts. In order to maintain some femininity they wore fitter shirts or sports bra. The hardcore aspect of rap did not fully permit the women to embrace a feminine look . Doing so would make them appear as weaker. Thus, the over-sized pieces allowed them to maintain their femininity, bare mid-sections and sports bras, while still being hard with the blousy pieces .

It is during the upheaval of the street wear fashions models of color began to make their mark in the fashion industry. Models of the caliber of Tyra Banks found fame during the 1990s. After being rejected by 6 modeling agency the young Banks was signed by Elite Model Management. In her first season as a model she booked 25 shows in Paris Fashion Week Bank’s seductive walk impressed designers making her a hot commodity. Designers who were influence by the new oversized streetwear were more likely to book models of color for show their designs. Other famous models of color during the time include Naomi Campbell and Iman. Undoubtedly, oversized fashion marked the beginning of a new trend for urban youth during the 1990s.

The 2000s

Rachel Zoe in oversized sunglasses

Women’s oversized fashion at the turn of the century is largely displayed in various accessories. At the beginning of the 2000s, many designers began using sizable and bulky glasses and jewelry in their lines, and women in the spheres of fashion, music, and film began wearing these oversized decorations. Celebrities such as Nicole Richie and Rachel Zoe helped to further this wearing of oversized accessories, and assisted in making the items popular in everyday wear. As the decade progressed, the utility of oversized accessories did not wane, but rather became even more widely used.

Since the year 2006, three designers have garnered massive amounts of attention for their adoption of oversized fashion: Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, and Marc Jacobs. In 2006, McQueen put on a show in which an enormous hologram of Kate Moss dressed in yards of rippling fabric adorned the backdrop of catwalk; this move furthered the attention of oversized fashion and made Moss the poster model for oversized styling. The death of McQueen in February of 2010 lead to his style of fashion accruing even more attention, which put oversized fashion even more so on the map.

Another exhibition of oversized fashion from this era is the oversized handbag. Designers such as Balenciaga and Michael Kors began producing purses and satchel-like bags that were larger than usual and complied with the oversized aesthetic. Due to an enormous increase in the richness of media around this time, these bags became very popular because pictures of celebrities and other famous persons were posted online for many to see. It became quite popular to buy a bag from a designer like Balenciaga, Betsey Johnson, or Michael Kors, for example, after seeing some star carrying the bag around town.

The reviews of oversized fashion use in the new millennium have been mixed. Some designers and critics have welcomed the utilization of oversized accessories with open arms, while others view the trend as foolish and prodigal. Young designers and fashion houses such as McCartney, McQueen, and Jacobs generally esteem oversized accessories, while older and more established couturiers like Chanel find most oversized accessories distasteful. It does not seem that oversized accessories are making much of a statement, other than that extravagance has become in vogue.

See also

• Fashion accessory
• Fashion design
• Masculinity
• Index of fashion articles
• List of fashion topics
• History of Western fashion
• History of fashion design

References

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Topic

Women’s Oversized Fashion In The USA (1920s-2000s)

While looking on the Requested Pages section of Wikipedia, our group noticed a section related to Fashion. Upon delving into this section, our group noticed that there was no article written for “Oversized Clothing.” Acknowledging this topic as vast in nature, our group chose to narrow the topic down to “Women’s Oversized Fashion in the USA, 1920s-2000s,” taking into account both our resources and allocated time.

This sounds like an interesting topic, and from reading further below, one you can get reliable sources about. LeshedInstructor (talk) 02:30, 24 September 2012 (UTC)

• • Here we will delineate between plus-sized fashion and oversized fashion--Agarden1991 (talk) 06:00, 25 September 2012 (UTC)

Article sections

[Sample Layout]* 1920s

Oversized Trends

Key People of the Decade

Cultural Significance and Opposition

(Each decade will be formatted in a similar matter.)

In order for readers to grasp better understandings of the evolution of fashion, our group would like to format the article chronologically. This type of article structuring emphasizes the temporal trends of oversized fashion and allows for the readers to have text-to-world connections. This type of article structuring, furthermore, manifests the dynamic nature of the fashion industry in that it establishes how trends have improved “throughout the eras.”

This structure might prove useful, but it could also be restrictive. There are some areas in this topic which your article might miss if you only follow this structure. For example, prominent providers, designers, and models that span decades; other cultural connections, e.g., African-American influences on this fashion; etc. LeshedInstructor (talk) 02:36, 24 September 2012 (UTC)

• • Section Update:

Decade: -The main oversized fashion

-Look for picture

-What’s the message between the oversized clothes

Main people involved:

Designer

Colors

Models

-Reception of the fashion

Jean-Carlos: 90s 20s 30s

Jack-Newton 2000s/2010s onward 80s 40s

Andrena: 60s 50s 70s--Agarden1991 (talk) 05:59, 25 September 2012 (UTC)

Limitations of Research: Reflects upper to middle class individuals who could afford to keep up with fashion trends.--Agarden1991 (talk) 19:03, 29 September 2012 (UTC)

1920s:

The 1920s were marked by a post-war aesthetic. After World War I, which continued through the late 1910s, the fashion world had a great switch. From the tight corsets and hobble skirts to shapeless, oversized sparsely decorated garments (Peacock, 1997). In this same era, women began to wear more comfortable fashions that included blousy skirts and trousers. At the same time, it is this era that gives birth to sportswear fashion. Sportswear, previously recognized as America’s main contribution, consisted of a casual more relaxed style. Gabrielle Chanel , known as the first modern dressmaker, created two of the greatest contribution to the 20s fashion. She created the first two-piece dress. She created these dresses out of jersey, a very comfortable stretchy fabric (Gold, 1991). The American public was rather receptive embracing this relaxed oversized style, perfect for the active woman on the go. The combinations of new ideas yield this loosely fitted, modernized style. ‘The Boyish Figure’ became one the most prevalent trends of the era. This fashion consisted of flattened chests, shapeless silhouettes and drop waistlines, which gave more masculine looks to the female figure. The emphasis of the flattened chest, which revolutionized the construction for undergarments, came from the post-war era and the heavy influence of men’s shapes in women’s wear. Along with this new silhouette came electric sewing, which further modernized the 20’s fashions. A new generation of sewing machines came about, each one with an individual electric motor. The coming about of the sewing machine enabled fashion designers to create more oversized fashions, while saving time, resources, and money. Music also had an influence in the ways in which fashions evolved. The Jazz Era embraced fashion with the popularization of flaps in dresses and in turn many new celebrities were born. Stars like Josephine Baker, entertainer, was known for her semi translucent flapper frocks. In this post era war the female body was focused on the embodiment of the male figure. Oversized clothing was not a particular trend it was the way in that fashion was developed during the time.

1930s:

The 1930s which followed the “roaring twenties,” started in depression and ended with the start of World War 2. With rising unemployment and despair, it was easy to overlook the importance of fashion during this time period. No industry was left unaffected by the depression. In the fashion industry, designers cut their prices and produced new lines of ready-to-wear clothes, along with clothing made of more economical and washable fabrics such as rayon and nylon (Costantino, Maria p.7 1992) For example, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel showed a collection of evening dresses made of cotton and sold dresses 50% off. The fashions of the 1930s were stylish and elegant, with flowing lines and Paris based coutures. Because many women could not afford to update their wardrobes, women changed their looks through the use of alterations exemplifying the oversized fashion of the 1930s. Women used lengthening bands of contrasting fabric and added fur to their hems. As well, material was added to collars and sleeves. As the era progressed, skirts that flared out fell to the bottom of the calf and sleeves were loosely tied as they fell from the elbow to wrist. (Still in progress..) --Agarden1991 (talk) 02:27, 1 October 2012 (UTC)

1940s:

During the first half of the 1940s, many clothing-related commodities were in short supply due to World War 2; the United States Government relinquished numerous products for utilization in warfare. Leather, for example, was enormously used in the uniforms of American servicemen—so the material, to a large extent, went out of use in mainstream fashion (Lansdell). As a consequence of the relinquishing of materials, oversized fashion, which utilizes excessive amounts of material, was not in-style. Designers such as Cristobal Balenciaga, Digby Morton, and Norman Hartnell, however, utilized oversized fashion practices in their early 1940s collections to manifest the consequential happenings of the war (Peackock). Because numerous men were abroad taking up arms, many women took on their positions in factories and offices. Attributable to women supplanting men in the workplace, women’s fashion became more masculine and employed oversized design. Wide-legged slacks and pronounced shoulder pads came to be all the rage, and most American women embraced the virile style (Lansdell). Not until the second half of the decade, though, with the introduction of Dior’s “New Look,” was oversized fashion widely put to use. Dior’s “New Look,” which firstly grew in popularity in Europe, featured full skirts that reached a woman’s mid-calf (Lansdell). When Dior initially set in motion the “New Look” style, the fashion house received a lot of criticism. Sir Stafford Cripps, the then President of the Britain’s Board of Trade, was quoted as saying that the “New Look” was “utterly stupid” and an enormous waste of labor and materials (Kennett). A similar response was present in the United States, with resistance groups being formed such as the “A Little Below the Knee Club” in Texas. A few years later, however, once World War 2 ended, the “New Look” and its oversized flair were relished both within the fashion world and the consumer market.

1950s:

The 1950s, the postwar era, bought a change to the family dynamic, as well as a change to the fashion world. In 1947, Christian Dior launched his ‘Corelle line’ (Peacock, 1997 p. 7) as the first collection from his fashion house. This ‘Corelle line’ became the look of the decade as it ushered in femininity, luxury and grace to this era. Most importantly, it had a large effect on the female silhouette. This change implemented by Christian Dior dominated this decade. To briefly describe this era, clothes transformed from boxy styles, with square shoulders and masculine details to feminine and luxurious, soft shoulderlines, corseted waists, round padded hips and long skirts leading to the knee-length sack dress. The introduction of new fabrics allowed for new fashion styles to be both created and introduced. These new fabrics included Terylene, Orlon, Banlon and Acrilan and Poplin. Sample fashions introduced were the pencil skirt, the ‘wash-and-wear’ sweater, the permanently pleated skirt and the ‘drip-dry’ skirt. With key people of each decade highlighting the fashions, Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn were both influential.

Transformation of Clothing By Type: Day-Wear: In the 1950s, daywear stayed at a long, conservative length past the knee. However, attire shifted from a lose feel to a more form fitting matter, highlighted by the introduction of the pleated skirt towards the end of the 50s. Evening Wear: In the 1950s, individuals dressed in a conservative manner, complete with flowly dresses and skirts. However, in this era there is a increase in femininity, as tops of dresses are more fitted than not, to give mention to the female silhoutette. Outerwear: In the 1950s, similar to daywear, outwear was long past the knee but had a “slim fit”

Some Fashion Designers of this Decade: Balenciaga, Cristobal 1895-1972 · In the 1950s he started using lambswool dyed in acid pinks and yellows, made short dresses and coats with dropped hemlines at the back Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco) 1883-1971 · In the 1950s she introduced low heeled, two-tone sling-back pumps, shoulderbags with gilt-chain handles and a tweed suit. Saint Laurent, Yves (Henri Donat Mathieu) 1936 – · In the 1950s he began to work for Dior, eventually taking over the house after her passing but his clothing was not well received by Dior’s more conservative clientele. Valentina (Valentina Nicholaevna Sanina) 1899-1989 · In the 1950s she had success with full ballerina style skirts and slippers.

1960s:

In contrast to the “New Look” developed in the end of the 1940s that heavily influenced trends of the 1950s with femininity and sexuality, the look of the 1960s was different. The look of the 1960s reflected the main issue of that time era: Civil Rights. The 1960s woman “demanded equal rights and equal pay, wanted to be free, to look young and to have fun” (Peacock, 1998 p. 7). To achieve this youthful and flirty look, skirts were shortened, creating a look reminiscent of the 1920s. During this era, the “mini” skirt was developed (1965), inevitably leading to the creation of the “maxi” skirt. Evening wear too was affected, as now both long and short dresses could be seen at engagements. The change in fashion during this time period is also due to international influences such as London and France where ironically designers were young. An interesting thing to note about this time period is that women also began to wear pantsuits and jeans (Connikie, Yvonne, 1990 p. 22). The materials used to create both clothing and accessories changed during this era. Compared to fabrics used in the 1950s, easy- care synthetic fabrics were used, such as Crimplene, Dacron and Terylene. The benefits of using easy-care synthetic fabrics meant the materials were crease resistant, easy to wash with little to no ironing time. To also complement the theme of this period, synthetic yarns which took dyes easily were used. To create this vibrant feel also on accessories such as shoes, umbrellas and additional clothing items such as mini-skirts, leather-look plastic was also used. While in this era, clothing became split along lines of age, there were overriding trends of this era. Another factor contributing to the trends of this period was the “postindustrial boom” (Connikie, Yvonne, 1990 p. 5), which helped to generate wealth in the United States. Jackie Kennedy, the wife of President John F. Kennedy became a model of French fashions, along with “Twiggy’” helping to spur the spread of the miniskirt.

Transformation Of Clothing By Type: • Carried over from the 1950s was the "bouffant” look (Connikie, Yvonne, 1990 p. 28), skirts kept in shape by layers of petticoats. Day-Wear: • In the 1960s, we see a true progression of women’s clothing. In the beginning of the decade, dresses and skirts rest at the knee. By the middle of the decade, there is the introduction of the mini-skirt, which was coupled with new shoewear, such as knee-high boots. For example, both blouse and jacket had a wide, rounded collar line (Connikie, Yvonne, 1990 p. 31). Evening-Wear: • In the 1960s, evening wear followed a similar trend to that of day-wear. As not only were evening gowns designed with a long loose feel, but also in designs that rested above the knee. Women became more daring with their fashion, showing more skin. A particular look was the “suspense-jupe,” which had a gathered waist. Outerwear: • Outerwear of the 1960s, as well complemented the evolving fashion of time, with pieces resting at the knee. Outerwear had a chic fit, fitted but not too fitted.

Some Fashion Designers Of This Decade: Balenciaga, Cristobal 1895-1972 • In the 1960s he produced highly successful loose jackets with dolman sleeves.

De la Renta, Oscar 1932 • He is best known for his eveningwear, lavishly trimmed. The Gypsy collection he created in 196 was a precursor to the 1970s vogue for peasant styles.

Givenchy, Hubert de 1927 – • He was highly influential designing clothing for Audrey Hepburn for the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany’s. He created chic, simple and highly wearable designs.

Johnson, Betsey 1942 – • In the 1960s she produced inexpensive yet unique garments such as a transparent vinyl dress.

Saint Laurent, Yves 1936 – • In the 1960s after he left Dior’s house and created his own, he created attire which included thigh-high boots, see- through blouses and the safari jacket. Many of his items were inspired by menswear (masculine jackets and trousers.)

Limitations of Research: Reflects upper to middle class individuals who could afford to keep up with fashion trends. --Agarden1991 (talk) 04:11, 30 September 2012 (UTC)

1970s:

The 1970s is often referred to as the “Me Decade” (Herald, Jacqueline 1992 p. 5), a term originally coined by writer Tom Wolfe. There were many groups, such as political and extremist groups wanting a piece of the action. With respect to dress, it was an “anything goes” era, or one without rules. With “anything goes” as the tone for the era, fashion styles were inspired by previous decades, hinting at both nostalgia and an interest in other cultures. The current political and economic situation of the United States, including the civil rights, unemployment levels, war and terrorism were reflected in the manner in which individuals dressed. As the Women’s movement came into the 1970s, radical feminists could be stereotyped for their anti-high fashion sentiments; these women required low maintenance and made a statement. In regards to high fashion, established fashion houses seen with a strong presence in other eras produced more ready to wear collections and casual attire. As nostalgia was a big theme of this time period, secondhand clothes were a key player. Similar to the 1950s, 1920s clothing also influenced this decade, along with fashions of the 30s, 40s and 50s. Television also played an ode to styles of the past (Godfather and Grease). When not inspired nostalgia, fashion took another turn “ the idea was to appear as if your body had been spray painted” (Herald, Jacqueline 1992 p. 52). To achieve this look, leotards were worn and were accessorized with short frilled skirts, cap sleeves and leg warmers. “Hot pants” or skimpy shorts were also popular in the beginning of the 70s. By the mid 1970s, we see the reemergence of “unstructured design” from the fashion houses. These were considered the simplest cuts, appearing to look as if no skillful cutting was requird. An example of this cut is Issey Miyake’s wool cowboy look for winter 1978-1979; an example of experimentation in textured knitting.

Transformation Of Clothing By Type: Day-wear: • As this was the “anything goes” era, playful clothing from the 60s was carried over but transformed. Fashions included “maxi-length” coats, secondhand apparel, clingy dresses and crop tops. Evening –Wear: • Dresses without a defined cut. Outerwear: • It would be short (maxi-length) At the end of the decade, people began to become design conscious, as in how they were dressing for work.

Some Fashion Designers of This Decade: Von Furstenberg, Diane 1946 - • Opened her own business in 1972 and is known for dresses (plain, simply cut or silk jersey)

Lauren, Ralph 1939 – • In 1971 he began to do womenswear collections, including the 1978 “Prairie” look.

1980s:

The beginning of the 1980s was truly the first time in which women assumed high-status roles in the workplace. Akin to the 1940s, women’s fashion in the 1980s was quite masculine, which was largely a reflection of women wanting to be taken seriously as working professionals. The three most important designers at the start of this decade, Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, and Ralph Lauren, were designing clothing that was characterized by broad and square shoulders (Carnegy). This use of oversized shoulders was largely a demonstration of women not wanting to be viewed by their feminine figures, but rather to be viewed equally in their careers. Designers other than Klein, Armani, and Lauren, such as Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçcons and Yohji Yamamoto, began designing with a Japanese-inspired aesthetics. Clothing became much more oversized to better resemble kimonos and other flowing Japanese garments (Carnegy). Much like the use of oversized shoulders, this Japanese style was meant to disguise the womanly shape. Even non-Japanese designers like Donna Karen, who became known at the time as “the Queen of 7th Avenue,” began utilizing this Japanese style of dress. Figures both within the fashion world and outside of the fashion world took on this gender-neutral style of fashion and made the look evermore popular. Singer, actress, and model Grace Jones was a key figure in furthering this type of fashion—keeping her hair short and wearing very manly, oversized clothing. Scottish singer Annie Lennox did the same, but had much more of an effect in the musical realm (Carnegy). Another essential person who helped further the style of oversized fashion in the 1980s was Princess Diana. Princess Diana, who married Charles, Prince of Wales in July of 1981, wore an oversized wedding dress—making the tailor popular all around the world for the remainder of the decade.

1990s:

The 1990s has been one of the most diverse eras for fashion. As the fashion world began to experience technological modernization along with a widespread support from mainstream, the industry felt the need to appeal to different types of audiences. Some of the women’s fashion trends included: neon and pastel colors, legging and exercise wear, hippie look, designer clothes, and hip-hop. The latter is identifiable as the oversized fashion of the 90s. The influence of hip-hop on the urban fashion was overtly strong. Urban fashion was distinctly designed for African American youth. The 1990’s urban fashion is also influenced by the uproar of Black Nationalism in the country at the time.

       The urban trend heavily influenced by Black Nationalism and African trends began with the blousy pant sported by famous figures in the rap world as: MC Hammer and Fezzes. However, men were not the only ones to embrace this new form of street wear. Women too began to explore this new trend. The group TLC and R&B singer Aaliyah created their own urban fashion for women. Although this women were majorly of color, their style was known by mainstream. The trend consisted of wearing oversized pants and big flannel shirts. In order to maintain some femininity they wore fitter shirts or sports bra.  The hardcore aspect of rap did not fully permit the women to embrace a feminine look. Doing so would make them appear as weaker. Thus, the over-sized pieces allowed them to maintain their femininity, bare mid-sections and sports bras, while still being hard with the blousy pieces.
       It is during the upheaval of the street wear fashions models of color began to make their mark in the fashion industry. Models of the caliber of Tyra Banks found fame during the 1990s. After being rejected by 6 modeling agency the young Banks was signed by Elite Model Management. In her first season as a model she booked 25 shows in Paris Fashion week. Bank’s seductive walk impressed designers making her a hot commodity. Designers who were influence by the new oversized street wear were more likely to book models of color for show their designs. Other famous models of color during the time include Naomi Campbell and Iman. Undoubtedly, oversized  fashion marked the beginning of a new trend for urban youth during the 1990s.

2000s:

Women’s oversized fashion at the turn of the century is largely displayed in various accessories. At the beginning of the 2000s, many designers began using sizable and bulky glasses and jewelry in their lines, and women in the spheres of fashion, music, and film began wearing these oversized decorations. Celebrities such as Nicole Richie and Rachel Zoe helped to further this wearing of oversized accessories, and assisted in making the items popular in everyday wear. As the decade progressed, the utility of oversized accessories did not wane, but rather became even more widely used.

       Since the year 2006, three designers have garnered massive amounts of attention for their adoption of oversized fashion: Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, and Marc Jacobs.  In 2006, McQueen put on a show in which an enormous hologram of Kate Moss dressed in yards of rippling fabric adorned the backdrop of catwalk; this move furthered the attention of oversized fashion and made Moss the poster model for oversized styling.  The death of McQueen in February of 2010 lead to his style of fashion accruing even more attention, which put oversized fashion even more so on the map.

Another exhibition of oversized fashion from this era is the oversized handbag. Designers such as Balenciaga and Michael Kors began producing purses and satchel-like bags that were larger than usual and complied with the oversized aesthetic. Due to an enormous increase in the richness of media around this time, these bags became very popular because pictures of celebrities and other famous persons were posted online for many to see. It became quite popular to buy a bag from a designer like Balenciaga or Michael Kors, for example, after seeing some star carrying the bag around town.

       The reviews of oversized fashion use in the new millennium have been mixed.  Some designers and critics have welcomed the utilization of oversized accessories with open arms, while others view the trend as foolish and prodigal.  Young designers and fashion houses such as McCartney, McQueen, and Jacobs generally esteem oversized accessories while older and more established couturiers like Chanel find oversized accessories distasteful.  It does not seem that oversized accessories are making much of a statement, other than that extravagance has become in vogue.

Limitations of Research: Trends are associated with age range.--Agarden1991 (talk) 15:42, 30 September 2012 (UTC)

Other article elements

To complement the chronological ordering of the article, our group would like to embed photographs showing trending fashions of each specific decade. This insertion of images would enhance readers’ understandings of decade-based trends. These images would prospectively be aligned on the left and right outside columns of the article page. We hope to obtain the images from the Wikimedia Commons page.

This sounds like a great idea! Maybe start checking WikiCommons sooner rather than later because I think pictures would be really essential for this article Jnd1091 (talk) 03:41, 25 September 2012 (UTC)

Situating this article within the Wikipedia community

This article is not a WikiProject; it was simply on the Requested Pages. As of right now, our group will not be reaching out to specific individuals on Wikipedia for help. We will link our topic to the larger Fashion page on Wikipedia (see reference above.)

There is a Wikipedia page on Plus-size clothing and Plus-size model. How is your article going to be connected to these articles? Notice on the Plus-size clothing article that they discuss the shift from the term oversized to plus-size. This is, for example, an issue you might want to consult with other Wikipedians you will contact from the WikiProject Fashion. Finding specific individuals to vouch for your article will greatly enhance your article and help you to keep it and avoid deletion. LeshedInstructor (talk) 02:40, 24 September 2012 (UTC)

Sources

initial list of 5 different sources for your article (e.g., not all from the same website)

Manlow, V. (2007). Designing clothes: Culture and organization of the fashion industry. New Brunswick: TransManlow, V. (2007).

Milbank, C. R. (1989). New York fashion: The evolution of American style. New York: Abrams.

Peacock, J. (1993). 20th-century fashion: The complete sourcebook. London: Thames and Hudson.

Peacock, J., & Peacock, J. (2007). Fashion since 1900: The complete sourcebook. London: Thames & Hudson.

Romero, E. (2012). Free stylin': How hip hop changed the fashion industry. Santa Barbara, Calif: Praeger.

Impressive! I hope you checked out these books from the library and that you spotted the right chapters in them to read and summarize for your article. LeshedInstructor (talk) 02:41, 24 September 2012 (UTC)

These seem super awesome! You may want to see if there are reviews of fashion shows in which oversized fashions were featured, or something like that. This might be a fun way to mix up your sources! Jnd1091 (talk) 03:44, 25 September 2012 (UTC)

Further Sources

Peacock, J. (1997). The 1920s. London: Thames and Hudson. Peacock, J. (1997). The 1930s. London: Thames and Hudson. Peacock, J. (1998). The 1940s. London: Thames and Hudson. Peacock, J. (1997). The 1950s. London: Thames and Hudson. Peacock, J. (1998). The 1960s. London: Thames and Hudson. Peacock, J. (1997). The 1970s. London: Thames and Hudson. Peacock, J. (1998). The 1980s. London: Thames and Hudson.

Wikimedia commons. (2011, October 31). Retrieved from http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Main_Page

(n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from ttp://wiki.riteme.site/wiki/Fashion

Division of labor

In our group of three, we are very organized. The labor has been equally distributed for the entire project. Jean-Carlos will be taking care of scheduling and planning. Andrena will be taking care of visuals. Jean-Carlos and Andrena will also be providing the brief overview of the era (i.e. current economic conditions) along with highlighting the trends of the era. Jack will be covering the oppositions to the cultural eras, along with discussing Key People of the decade.

Fair enough. Please also make sure there are members familiar with finding and linking photos, with the Wikipedia formatting and style guidelines, etc. LeshedInstructor (talk) 02:42, 24 September 2012 (UTC)

I agree with Professor Leshed. I think that because of the visual nature of your article specifically, photos should play a large role. Perhaps you may want to delegate this responsibility to one specific team member? I can imagine it might be more work than it seems getting photos that are allowed through the Wikipedia image system Jnd1091 (talk) 03:40, 25 September 2012 (UTC)

• • Update:

Sections: Approximated word count, minimum of several paragraphs long with appropriate sources (3-4 per)

Ideas: Emailing to Gilly and Gabriel Mugar

Deadlines: Saturday,Sep 27th @ Goldwin G76 2pm Project Sections Done Sunday, Sep 28th @ G76 2pm Super Editing Section --Agarden1991 (talk) 05:59, 25 September 2012 (UTC)

Instructor's Feedback

It sounds like you have an interesting article to write. See my specific comments in the sections above. In addition, focusing on each decade might be tricky though - there have been 9 decades since 1920, which is a lot to fill out in the upcoming 2 weeks. If you restructure the article you might be better able to cover key concepts and facts related to this topic. Also notice the connection to the Plus-size clothing article and see how you are going to settle possible conflict between the two pages. Perhaps it would be better to expand on the Plus-size clothing article?

Good luck! LeshedInstructor (talk) 02:44, 24 September 2012 (UTC)

Questions

So I'm observing your article and just had a question about the content of your article. I was wondering whether you are looking specifically at the design differences in clothing for oversized women and how that has changed throughout the years, or whether you are looking at maybe the popularity of women's oversized fashion and how it has changed throughout the years and the reasons why it has or hasn't. Just wanted to know to clarify so that I know what I can keep an eye out for as far as articles to help you guys out :) Saweetmerc (talk) 18:30, 28 September 2012 (UTC)

Hi! Thanks for your inquiry - Actually, our topic is not about oversized women but rather oversized such as a blousy shirt. We will be discussing the transformation of this type of fashion through the 1920s to the present day, highlighting similarities and differences between decades. We hope this answers your question! :)--Agarden1991 (talk) 18:40, 2 October 2012 (UTC)

Discussion

Noticed differences in structure so constructed a plan of action: -Editing Decades 20s-J 30s-A 40s-JC 50s-J 60s-JC 70s-J 80s-A 90s-A 00s-JC -Find the place to Wiki -Create a template -Find pictures via Commons--Agarden1991 (talk) 19:47, 30 September 2012 (UTC)

Observer 1

This article looks really great. It's very well organized, and the images you've used for each section are very well implemented too. I think that this article is fairly easy to follow, and the images present the right number of breaks between text to ensure smooth reading of the article as well. I'm also very intrigued by the topic, it's a very interesting one to cover and I'm glad that you were able to find enough information for each of the decades covered. My only suggestion is to continue to make sure your topic can be fully differentiated and thought of as separate than any other seemingly related articles on Wikipedia. I think that would greatly help your article to stand on its own and help ensure more positive feedback. I can tell you are doing this already though, so keep it up!

Also, I apologize for the delay in posting this comment, I was suddenly struck ill over the weekend and have been bed ridden with fever ever since :(

JPierre679 (talk) 00:58, 4 October 2012 (UTC)

Observer 2

You are definetly on the right track. Thoughts:

• Wikipedia article should not have an "overview" section. What they have instead is the "lead", which serves as a short SUMMARY of the article. Crucially, the lead should never include information not present elsewhere in the article. If this is not fully clear, the concept of "lead" is discussed extensively here: Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style/Lead_section;
• there are some unreferenced paragraphs, cite them at the very least (ideally, you should cite each sentence). Unreferenced paragraphs will prevent you from getting a B+ quality, or having your article featured on the front page (WP:DYK. On that note also note that you should not move the article till you are done with ref fixing, as articles are eligible for DYKs only for five days after such move, and if you take longer fixing the issues, you'll not be able to nominate your work, which would be a shame);
• your portal and commons links are broken, remove them or fix them;
• what about pre-1920? If you don't intend to discuss this period, explain why, or the article will look incomplete;
• your title should use lower caps, per Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style/Capitalization, so when you move it, do so to Women's oversized fashion in the United States.
• after you move the article, don't forget to add categories;

--_{Piotr Konieczny aka Prokonsul Piotrus| reply here} 15:57, 4 October 2012 (UTC)