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Lucy Appleby
[edit]Lucy Appleby, MBE (born Florence Lucy Walley, 1 February 1920 - 24 April 2008) was a cheesemaker and advocate of traditional farmhouse cheesemaking methods. She created 'Mrs Appleby's Cheshire' which by the time of her death was the last remaining Cheshire cheese to observe the traditions of using unpasteurised milk from the farm herd, being bound in calico cloth, and matured on-farm. Lucy went on to co-found the Specialist Cheesemakers Association to defend the use of unpasteurised milk in cheesemaking.
Life and career
[edit]Early years
[edit]One of eight children, Lucy Appleby was born Florence Lucy Walley on 1 February 1920 to a farming and cheesemaking family at Lighteach Farm, Whitchurch, Shropshire [1][2][3]. She learnt cheesemaking from her grandmother and mother [4] and went on to study it at Cheshire School of Agriculture (now Reaseheath College [5]) under the direction of a Miss Bennion[6], Chief Dairy Instructress[7] and proponent of traditional cheesemaking techniques [8].
Family
[edit]Soon after leaving agricultural school in 1940, Lucy married local farmer's son, Lance Appleby. They lived for two years near the village of Malpas, Cheshire, before moving to Lance's family farm, Hawkstone Abbey Farm, situated on the edge of the Cheshire Plain in North Shropshire [9][10]. Over the following decade Lucy and Lance had seven children: Edward, Helen, John, Margaret, Rachel, Robert and Ruth [8][11].
Cheesemaking
[edit]The Applebys' cheese company was founded in 1952.[8][10] The stables at Hawkstone Abbey Farm were converted into a dairy where Lucy made cloth-bound Cheshire cheese to a traditional recipe using unpasteurised milk from their herd of Friesian cattle [9][10]. Lucy's ambition was revive a cheese that had been made on 2000 farms as recently as 1914 but whose production had dwindled to less than 50 producers by the time Lucy started the Appleby's cheese company. In 2017, the Appleby family was the only remaining regular producer of pasteurised milk farmhouse Cheshire [12].
Lucy Appleby took a number of decisions as a cheesemaker that went against the emerging trends and pressures of her time but which preserved the authenticity and quality of Appleby's Cheshire.
At the time that Lucy began making cheese at Hawkstone Abbbey Farm cheesemakers were experimenting with binding cheeses in wax, rather than the traditional calico cloth[8], to reduce moisture loss and thus increase yield [13]. Lucy rejected this method because she believed that calico allowed the cheese to breathe and better flavours to develop as a result [14][15]. In later years she supported fellow cheesemakers who had adopted wax binding to revert to calico[16].
As was customary at the time, the Appleby's cheese was initially sold through the Milk Marketing Board (MMB). But over time the MMB became less aligned with the Applebys' relatively small scale, artisan approach and in 1982 they broke tie and as a result their cheese could be marketed for the first time under the family name[10][11][15][16]
However, as a result the Applebys needed to find new markets for their cheese and so they drove, with a typical 20kg wheel of cheese, to London to introduce leading artisan cheese sellers to Mrs Appleby's Cheshire [17]. This direct approach was a success and within five years the Appleby's were selling 1.5 tonnes a week [15].
In the late 1980s a series of public health scares led supermarkets to stop selling cheese made from unpasteurised milk. Whilst many cheesemakers felt compelled to pasteurise their milk in order retain the supermarkets' business, Lucy Appleby did not follow suit believing that quality unpasteurised milk was key to the flavour and texture of her cheese [15] . Lucy subsequently co-founded, with Randolph Hodgson, the Specialist Cheesemakers Association, to lobby for the preservation of cheeses made with unpasteurised milk and to encourage excellence in farmhouse cheesemaking [8][15].
Awards
[edit]In 2001 Lucy and Lance Appleby were both awarded MBEs for their services to cheesemaking in Shropshire [9].
References
[edit]- ^ "Lucy Appleby". 2008-05-02. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 2017-11-10.
- ^ The Home Farmer. Milk Marketing Board. 1940. p. 29.
- ^ "Making Farmhouse Cheshire Cheese". britishagriculture.blogspot.co.uk. Retrieved 2017-11-11.
- ^ "Good Cheese 2014 15". issuu. Retrieved 2017-11-12.
- ^ "History of Reaseheath". www.nantwich.plus.com. Retrieved 2017-11-11.
- ^ "Lucy Appleby". The Times. 2008-05-10. ISSN 0140-0460. Retrieved 2017-11-11.
- ^ Scott J. W. Robertson (1930). The Countryman Vol-iv (1930).
- ^ a b c d e Lawrence Goldman (7 March 2013). Oxford Dictionary of National Biography 2005-2008. OUP Oxford. pp. 24–25. ISBN 978-0-19-967154-0.
- ^ a b c Ltd, Lighthouse Design for Business. "Appleby's - Family History". www.applebyscheese.co.uk. Retrieved 2017-11-11.
{{cite web}}:|first=has generic name (help) - ^ a b c d "Lucy Appleby". The Times. 2008-05-10. ISSN 0140-0460. Retrieved 2017-11-10.
- ^ a b Cunynghame, Arthur (2008-05-29). "Obituary: Lucy Appleby". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 2017-11-12.
- ^ "A Little History of Appleby's Cheshire - Neal's Yard Dairy". Neal's Yard Dairy. 2016-10-14. Retrieved 2017-11-15.
- ^ Catherine W. Donnelly (2016). The Oxford Companion to Cheese. Oxford University Press. p. 171. ISBN 978-0-19-933088-1.
- ^ "Lucy Appleby". 2008-05-02. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 2017-11-12.
- ^ a b c d e "Lucy Appleby". The Times. 2008-05-10. ISSN 0140-0460. Retrieved 2017-11-15.
- ^ a b "Lucy Appleby: Influential artisan cheesemaker". The Independent. 2008-05-13. Retrieved 2017-11-10.
- ^ "Good Cheese 2014 15". issuu. Retrieved 2017-11-15.