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The Influence of Celebrity Fashion on Gender norms

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Through bold statements, extreme behaviour, and unconventional outfits, celebrities capture the attention of the public, primarily through the media. Their influence in modern day society has grown significantly due to the rise and widespread use of social media platforms [1]. A striking 72% of Gen Z and Millennials actively follow influencers on social media, with many turning to these figures, including celebrities, for guidance on trends, opinions, and consumer choices [2]. Clothing has traditionally played a significant role in shaping perceptions of gender, as people often make automatic judgments about whether someone is male, or female based on their clothing [3]. While clothing serves as a powerful tool for expressing mood and personality, its greater significance lies in its ability to challenge gender norms and redefine societal expectations of identity and presentation [4]. However, historically this has not always been the case. The World Health Organization defines gender as a social construct in which characteristics are attributed to both men and women [5]. Norms, behaviours and roles influence the perception of gender and often bring about stereotyping. This stereotyping leads to generalized assumptions of how a women or man should behave and dress [6]. Gender fluid dress challenges these traditional expectations by recognizing that gender is not confined to binary categories of male and female [7]. Essentially it is a term used to describe how gender fits on a spectrum and can change over time, allowing individuals to express themselves in ways that do not conform to gender norms. Those who identify as gender fluid may express both masculine and feminine traits or shift from masculine to feminine and vice versa depending on personal preference [8]. In addition, gender-neutral fashion has gained popularity as a way to break down gender norms [9]. It offers a method of expression which does not adhere to societal norms that dictate what men and women should wear. Celebrities such as, Harry Styles, Kristen Stewart and Billy Porter are individuals who use unconventional and thought-provoking imagery through clothing to challenge gender norms and express their identity in ways that defy traditional gender boundaries [10]. They are often wearing gender neutral or fluid clothing. This article explores the ways in which celebrities challenge and shape societal perceptions of gender norms through their fashion choices and public personas, highlighting the role of clothing as a means of social commentary and self-expression.

Historical context

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Historically women in particular did not possess the freedom of clothing choice, as for much of Western society it was illegal or frowned upon for women to wear trousers, seen as impersonation of male attire [11]. This led to the association of dresses for women and trousers for men which reinforced rigid gender norms in fashion. Over time, such societal expectations created a clear divide between ‘appropriate’ clothing for men and women, influencing not just fashion but the broader perception of gender roles [12]. Notably, high heels were originally a masculine accessory, later becoming a feminine one. Their transformation into a symbol of femininity reflects the complex ways in which fashion has been used to both challenge and reinforce gender roles over time.

The impact of clothing on gender stereotyping

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Fleischmann et al. (2015) investigated the impact of clothing on gender stereotyping. Participants evaluated the same women wearing either a feminine or neutral outfit whilst completing a computer task [13]. Results revealed that a feminine outfit (as opposed to a neutral one) led to higher ratings of femininity and lower ratings of computer skills, likability, competence and intelligence. Additionally, failure on the task was ascribed to lack of skills while success on the task was ascribed to luck. Another study which provides insight into this was conducted by Beasley and Standly (2009). A content analysis of videogames from various consoles was used to examine the depiction of women. A lack of female representation along with the portrayal of women in outfits which exposed the most amount of skin and placed emphasis on their breasts was found. The researchers theorized that those who played such games, especially young boys, were more likely to internalize these gender role stereotypes [14]. These studies highlight the importance of clothing as a factor contributing to gender stereotyping and bias. They also provide insight into how clothing choice can reinforce or challenge gender expectations.

Clothing, Gender Expression, and Identity

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Clothing has, for a long time, been a means of expression and a key component in gender identity. Research has shown that clothing affects status, self-image, and emotional well-being, particularly for those with gender dysphoria, a condition that causes physiological distress when there is a mismatch between one's gender identity and sex assigned at birth [15]. For example, a study by Hartmans et al. found that clothing can affect the perceived competence of a general practitioner, specifically participants had the highest confidence in female doctors wearing white coats, while male doctors were preferred in semi-formal attire [16]. This highlights how clothing influences social perception in professional contexts. Similarly, for transgender individuals, gender-affirming clothing plays a significant role in improving self-expression and mental health [17]. Through dressing in a way that aligns with their gender identity, transgender individuals can enhance their sense of belonging to the group they identify with, reducing the distress associated with gender dysphoria [18]. Clothing that aligns with one's gender identity can also facilitate greater social acceptance and contribute to positive psychological outcomes [19]. A study which examined the implicit and explicit attitudes of men toward pink or blue clothing involved students completing tasks which measured their thoughts on gender roles, self-esteem, and how they rate themselves in terms of masculine and feminine traits whilst wearing a blue or pink lab coat [20]. It was found that men with lower self-esteem rated themselves as more feminine when wearing pink compared to blue, however, men with high self-esteem rated themselves as more masculine when wearing pink. Sex role attitudes were also influenced by the colour of the coat: pink made men more egalitarian and less sexist, regardless of their self-esteem. This study suggests that clothing colour can influence self-perception and gender roles, especially when the clothing goes against traditional gender norms.

Harry Styles on gender norms

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The dress worn by Harry Styles on Vogue. Credited to Clare

Harry Styles, a well-known celebrity most known for being part of the band One Direction, often challenges traditional gender norms through his clothing by wearing outfits from both men’s and women’s collections, sometimes blending elements from both into a single piece [21]. For example, he shocked many when he wore a sheer black blouse with a bow, a pearl earing and black high heels to the Met Gala in 2019 [22]. According to Romanos (2023), men cross-dress in attempt to break away from the societal constraints that are placed on gender expression [23]. This might explain Style’s reasoning for his clothing choices. He believes that it is limiting to only wear men’s clothing as “you shut out a whole world of great clothes” and has often been amazed with women’s clothing [24]. His reasons for wearing particular clothes are not because they are perceived by others to look gay or bisexual but because it looks “cool” [25]. In his music video for his album “As It Was” he plays with the idea of masculinity and femininity through not only his clothing but also his behaviour in the video. He displays genderfluidity through shifting from masculine to feminine roles throughout the video. For example, he wears a red sequined jumpsuit with matching painted nails (associated with femininity) but still takes on a more masculine role where he can be see embracing his partner, exuding a more masculine presence [26]. Styles is also the first male cover star in Vogue’s 128-year history where he can be seen wearing a dress [27]. His gender defying fashion choices have been applauded by most as he actively blurs the line between masculinity and femininity. Many influential figures such as, Alok Vaid-Menon, a gender non-conforming writer and performance artist, have praised him for openly challenging gender norms[28].  Essentially, Styles contributes to framing a more inclusive view on fashion and confronts the idea that clothing should be limited to gender.

Kristen Stewart on gender norms

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Another influential figure who challenges traditional gender norms is Kristen Stewart. She appeared on the cover of the Rolling Stone Magazine in a black leather dress and jock strap, this outfit served as a fashion statement, a symbol of empowerment and resistance toward traditional gender norms [29]. She believes that “Gender is a bit of a myth” as it is something that isn’t rigid and to be defined by each individual [30]. A study by Colet (2017) recognized Stuwart as a gender-fluid icon who presents herself in an androgynous way. The study focused on how her image has evolved over time through analysing her influence on social media platforms (Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and fan created content on Tumblr and Pinterest) [31]. Stuwart has also collaborated with well renowned brands like Chanel and Balenciaga, further strengthening her image as a fashion icon [32].These brands are known for challenging traditional gender norms in fashion, Chanel blends masculine and feminine elements, while Balenciaga has introduced gender inclusive designs under Demna Gvasalia [33]. Stuwart’s style moves away from traditional fashion and beauty standards and aligns with these brands’ values [34]. Overall, Kristen Stewart's collaboration with progressive brands like Chanel and Balenciaga, combined with her advocacy for gender fluidity and social causes, as well as androgenous fashion choices, reinforces her influence as a fashion icon who challenges traditional gender norms. In doing so she provides a new generation with the means to embrace inclusivity and individuality.

Billy Porter on gender norms

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Billy porter is an actor, writer and fashion icon who consistently challenges gender norms through his bold extravagant fashion choices [35]. Porter has a special relationship with fashion as a powerful tool for self-expression and representation especially as a gay black man, where he has often faced limitations and scrutiny of his masculinity [36]. This has shaped his approach to fashion [37]. A notable example of how he challenges gender norms is his appearance at the 2019 Oscars, where he wore a Christian Siriano-designed tuxedo ball gown, a groundbreaking moment in red carpet history [38]. This full-length black velvet gown and tailored tuxedo overtop blended both masculine and feminine elements and was a statement piece allowing for expression that moves beyond conventional gender norms, challenging established ideas of masculinity and typical expectations of fashion in Hollywood [39]. This was revolutionary moment for Hollywood, capturing mass attention showing that the red carpet, a traditionally gendered space in terms of fashion, can also be a space for men to express themselves in ways that were once reserved for women. Another notable look of Porter's is his outfit at the 2020 Grammy awards where he wore a cyan bejewelled disco jumpsuit paired with a large matching hat with a long hanging fringe all round [40]. This served as a visual metaphor for dismantling expectations and barriers for men in fashion, by literally moving the fringe to reveal ones-self. His clothing often challenges ideas of what masculine and feminine dress should look like and often refers to clothing as "political art" which conveys the intentions behind his looks, that is making a statement about societal issues such as gender norms [41]. He also expressed his frustration at the traditional gender norms that everyone is expected to follow and felt that men should be able to wear whatever they wanted as women do and not just "penguin suits" [42]. Not only do his fashion choices defy gender norms, they act as a tool for activism often commenting on ideas of gender, sexuality, and race [43]. His platform, where he speaks about such issues and indirectly comments through clothing choice, has gained much media attention further solidifying his role as a fashion icon who provides new ideas of masculinity and femininity [44].

References:

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