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An emo girl and emo boy together outside.
Two emo teens in 2007

Emo, whose participants are called emo kids or emos, is a subculture which began in the United States in the 1990s.[1] Based around emo music, the subculture formed in the genre's mid-1990s San Diego scene, where participants were derisively called Spock rock due to their distinctive straight, black haircuts.

Fashion

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Clothing

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During the 1990s, emo fashion was clean-cut and tended towards geek chic,[2] with clothing items like thick-rimmed glasses resembling 1950s musician Buddy Holly, button-down shirts, t-shirts, sweater vests, tight jeans, converse shoes, and cardigans being common.[3]

Emo fashion in the mid-to late 2000s included skinny jeans, tight T-shirts (usually short-sleeved, and often with the names of emo bands), studded belts, Converse sneakers, Vans and black wristbands.[4][1] Thick, horn-rimmed glasses remained in style to an extent,[4] and eye liner and black fingernails became common during the mid-2000s.[5][6]

Hair

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The emo "shotgun blast" hairstyle

The earliest form of emo hair was the "Spock rock" haircut, which was a style of dyed black hair with straight bangs, popular amongst emos in the mid–1990s. By this had evolved to be longer and have side-swept bangs.[7] By the 2000s, this had developed into a flat, straightened hairstyle with long, side-swept bangs covering one eye.[1] This style is often called simply "emo hair", and was popular outside of the subculture in the 2000s and 2010s.[8] The hairstyle has been subject to controversy, with some optometrists suggesting having one eye covered by hair can lead to the development of amblyopia.[9] A variation of this style was the "shotgun blast" haircut, which included the same front as the emo haircut, however with the back of the hair spiked up.[7]

Other popular hairstyles amongst the subculture was the bob cut (often A-line),[7] swoop and skullet. Generally emo haircuts contained layers and were kept uncombed and oily.[10] Emos sometimes dyed their hair, usually black, however blocks of bleached hair and neon colors were also common. Occasionally, multiple colors were used to make patterns such as raccoon stripes or cheetah spots.[10][7] Some emos cut their hair using razor blades.[7]

Body modifications

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Snakebite piercings, popular amongst emos

snakebite lip piercings, stretched lobe piercings.[11]

Music

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My Chemical Romance,[1][6] Hawthorne Heights,[1] AFI,[1] Dashboard Confessional,[12] Taking Back Sunday,[13] Good Charlotte,[14] Brand New, From First to Last,[15] Bullet for My Valentine,[16] Story of the Year,[17] Funeral for a Friend,[18] Silverstein,[19] Simple Plan,[20] Aiden,[5] Fall Out Boy,[1][21] The Used,[5] Finch,[5] Panic! at the Disco,[20] Paramore,[20] Twenty One Pilots,[22] The Red Jumpsuit Apparatus[23] and The All-American Rejects[24] are all bands that emos are commonly known for listening to.

History

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Origins

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In the 1990s, emo fashion tended towards geek chic.

The beginning of emo as a subculture rather than just a style of music dates back to the mid-1990s San Diego scene. Bands in this scene, such as Heroin, Antioch Arrow and Swing Kids, and participants in this scene were often called "Spock rock", in reference to their black-dyed hair with straight fringes.[7] As the vocalist of Swing Kids, Justin Pearson had choppy spikes protruding from the back of his head alongside straight fringes, which was a prototype for the emo "shotgun blast" haircut.[7] In a 2020 interview with NoEcho, Pearson cited the band's aesthetic as being based on mods, greasers, the Situationist International, the artists on Blue Note Records and the minimalism of Crass.[25]

After the 1998 release of the music video for "New Noise" by Swedish hardcore punk band Refused, straight, black hair with long, swooped bangs became common. Refused adopted this haircut alongside black clothing and nail polish.[7] In January 2002, the Honolulu Advertiser described emo people as "intentionally unshowy": "these guys often ride bicycles, keep diaries, write poetry and hang out at coffee shops. They prefer art films to Hollywood blockbusters and frequent independent music stores. They are usually shy and introspective."[2]

Subsequent development

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Metalcore band Eighteen Visions was the band that expanded the prototype of later emo fashion. As many hardcore bands in the 1990s had a hypermasculine image characterized by shaved heads, baseball caps and tattoos, Eighteen Visions wanted to rebel against this image. Inspired by the look of bands like Orgy and Unbroken, Eighteen Visions dressed in effeminate fashion, including skinny jeans, straightened hair, swooped bangs, black clothes and eyeliner. This emphasise on the band's presentation lead to them being derogatorily labeled "fashioncore".[7][26] Fashioncore became a popular trend in hardcore and metalcore in the early 2000s, and other bands labeled as fashioncore included Avenged Sevenfold, Bleeding Through and Atreyu.[27][28][29] Influenced by the members of Eighteen Visions, emos in the early 2000s became increasingly experimental with their hair, making use of layers, asymmetrical fringes and cutting hair using razorblades. Haircuts such as the Bob and the A-Line cut were also popular.[7]

Mainstream prevalence

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Around 2002, the term "scene queen" began to be used as a pejorative against attractive, popular women perceived by older hardcore musicians as only being involved in hardcore for the subculture. Through this term, people who participated in the fashioncore-influenced style of emo dress began to be termed scene, which would eventually develop into its own subculture of emo. As time went on, scene became less intertwined with hardcore, instead gravitating to early social networks including Myspace, Buzznet and hi5, and metalcore music.[7]

Fashioncore spread to the West Coast of the United States with the success of Long Island's From Autumn to Ashes and, California band, A Static Lullaby's 2003 tour, with support from New Jersey's Senses Fail.[30] The New Jersey scene became what ultimately brought the subculture to mainstream attention.[31]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d e f g Poretta, JP (March 3, 2007). "Cheer up Emo Kid, It's a Brand New Day". The Fairfield Mirror. Archived from the original on March 12, 2007. Retrieved March 8, 2007.
  2. ^ a b Rath, Paula (January 8, 2002). "Geek chic look is clean cut". The Honolulu Advertiser. Archived from the original on April 11, 2016. Retrieved June 14, 2016.
  3. ^ Kuipers, Dean (July 7, 2002). "Oh the Angst. Oh the Sales". Los Angeles Times. Archived from the original on July 26, 2017. Retrieved April 21, 2020.
  4. ^ a b Adler & Adler 2011, p. 171.
  5. ^ a b c d Shuster, Yelena (July 17, 2008). "Black Bangs, Piercings Raise Eyebrows in Duma". The Moscow Times. Archived from the original on August 23, 2017.
  6. ^ a b Thomas-Handsard, Artemis (December 6, 2016). "10 Emo Songs for People Who Don't Know Shit About "Emotional Hardcore"". L.A. Weekly. Archived from the original on August 23, 2017. Retrieved August 23, 2017.
  7. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Stewart, Ethan (25 May 2021). "From Hardcore to Harajuku: the Origins of Scene Subculture". PopMatters. Archived from the original on 25 May 2021. Retrieved 25 May 2021.
  8. ^ "emo hair". Dictionary.com. Retrieved 27 February 2024.
  9. ^ Walker, Tim. "Trending: Warning! Emo hair can (er, might) damage your health". The Independent. Retrieved 27 February 2024.
  10. ^ a b Childers, Chad. "30 Amazing Examples of Emo Hair". Loudwire. Retrieved 27 February 2024.
  11. ^ Ramsey, William (May 8, 2023). Say The Quiet Part Out Loud: a Book on 2000s Emo Vol.1. Merjos wasn't the only well-known scene kid. There was also Jac Vanek and Audrey Kitching. Merjos, Vanek, and Kitching all became friends over their love for emo music and culture, and all three were MySpace celebrities. Selfie culture was born. In fact, I will go as far as to say that emo scene kids created selfie culture. There were legions of teens sharing pics of themselves in either band tees, multiple wrist bands, tutus, tiaras, snake bites, gauges, and of course either jet-black or neon-colored hair that covered one side of their face.
  12. ^ Mehta, Raghav (January 24, 2017). "A reformed emo kid revisits Dashboard Confessional". City Pages. Archived from the original on August 23, 2017. Retrieved August 23, 2017.
  13. ^ Gassman, Ian (September 15, 2016). "Taking Back Sunday a far cry from emo roots on "Tidal Wave"". The Denver Post. Archived from the original on August 23, 2017. Retrieved August 23, 2017.
  14. ^ Sherman, Maria (December 17, 2015). "The Emo Revival: Why Mall Punk Nostalgia Isn't Fading Away". Fuse.tv. Archived from the original on February 14, 2020. Retrieved March 18, 2020.
  15. ^ Sudakov, Dmitry (December 19, 2006). "Moscow teens develop their own emo-culture, worshipping depression and sadness". Pravda Report. Archived from the original on August 4, 2018. Retrieved August 4, 2018.
  16. ^ Jaffer, Dave (March 30, 2006). "Bullet For My Valentine – The Poison". Hour Community. Archived from the original on August 4, 2018. Retrieved August 4, 2018.
  17. ^ Gracie, Bianca (September 27, 2016). "Story of the Year Plans to Drop New Music Next Year". Fuse. Archived from the original on September 28, 2016. Retrieved September 28, 2016.
  18. ^ "Albums of the week". Metro. May 17, 2007. Archived from the original on August 4, 2018. Retrieved August 4, 2018.
  19. ^ James, Amber (July 5, 2016). "Fest Review: Amnesia Rockfest Day 1 in Montebello, Quebec". New Noise Magazine. Archived from the original on August 4, 2018. Retrieved August 4, 2018.
  20. ^ a b c Dominguez, Erica (March 24, 2017). "Simple Plan brings the nostalgia during Ft. Lauderdale tour stop". AXS. Archived from the original on August 23, 2017. Retrieved August 23, 2017.
  21. ^ Sawyer 2008, pp. 22–23.
  22. ^ Wilson, Carl (January 24, 2017). "The Mood Swing Vote". Slate. Archived from the original on December 28, 2020. Retrieved February 10, 2018.
  23. ^ "The Red Jumpsuit Apparatus Proves They're Still Leaders of Old-School Emo, With New EP". American Songwriter. July 23, 2020. Archived from the original on September 27, 2021. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  24. ^ "Kara Connolly Celebrates the Sweet 16 of The All-American Rejects Emo Hit "Swing, Swing" with a Pop Ballad Version". Rock the Pigeon. October 16, 2018. Archived from the original on September 27, 2021. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  25. ^ Ramirez, Carlos. "Swing Kids Vocalist Justin Pearson Looks Back on Their Sound, Visual Aesthetic + More". Retrieved 28 January 2024.
  26. ^ Wiederhorn, Jon; Turman, Katherine (July 17, 2013). "How Eighteen Visions Became The OC Metal Band Known For Inventing "Fashioncore"". OC Weekly. Archived from the original on June 4, 2021. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  27. ^ Richman, Jesse (January 24, 2018). "What is Emo, Anyway? We Look at History to Define a Genre". Alternative Press. Archived from the original on June 8, 2021. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  28. ^ Deneau, Max (December 1, 2005). "Bleeding Through Wolves Among Sheep". Exclaim!. Archived from the original on June 8, 2021. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  29. ^ "Easy, Breezy, Brutal: Three Major Movements in Heavy Metal Makeup". Cjlo. February 10, 2014. Archived from the original on June 8, 2021. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  30. ^ Payne, Chris (2023). Where Are Your Boys Tonight? The Oral History of Emo's Mainstream Explosion 1999-2008. Dey Street Books. p. 219. ISBN 9780063251281. Buddy Nielsen: I'm pretty sure the girl jeans started in Long Island with bands like From Autumn to Ashes and also Eighteen Visions, they're from Orange County. They started wearing designer girl jeans and then they made these shirts called "fashioncore." They were branding themselves as hardcore bands that were fashionable. Senses Fail didn't wear girl jeans until we toured with A Static Lullaby; they were real into wearing girl jeans and flat-ironing their hair and shit. And they would make fun of us, like, "You look like shit, you need to put on some fucking jeans." We're like, "All right man, this is our first tour, you guys are from California, you guys are cool." So then we all started wearing girl jeans.
  31. ^ Payne, Chris (2023). Where Are Your Boys Tonight? The Oral History of Emo's Mainstream Explosion 1999-2008. Dey Street Books. p. 13, 201. ISBN 9780063251281. This is the era in which the book begins, and within that era, no scene was more vital than New Jersey's. Before My Chemical Romance brought it to the Top of the Rock, emo's explosion began across the Hudson River, in the suburbs just out of view...
    Pete Wentz: It's weird to think of Jersey as a promised land, right? But for that kind of music, it definitely was.
    Shane Told: New Jersey felt like the sacred land of emo.
    Alex Saavedra: I would get calls and emails from bands from all over the place, asking for advice on where to move to in New Jersey. So many times. I would be like, "Dude, you don't have to move your whole band over. Just come play here."
    Adam Siska: We idolized Jersey. In high school with my friends it was really like, "We're gonna quit school and we're gonna drive to New Jersey and we're gonna be at Skate and Surf Festival. If only our parents would let us go..."