User:FrostFairBlade/sandbox/Hanae Mori

Life and career

Early life and costume design (1926–1964)

Mori was born Hanae Fujii on January 8, 1926, in Muikaichi, Shimane. She was the fourth of five children born to housewife Nobu (née Matsuura), and Tokuzo Fujii, a surgeon. Her father had met and married her mother while he studied medicine at Osaka University. Tozuko was interested in keeping up with fashion trends, often ordering clothes from the Takashimaya and Mitsukoshi department stores for Mori and her sister to wear. In an autobiography published by the Yomiuri Shimbun, she recalled that she moved to Tokyo in 1937 with her mother and older sister. Mori, who had enjoyed exploring her creativity through painting when she was younger, often fought with her father's wishes for her to study medicine. After being allowed to study literature and graduate from Tokyo Woman's Christian University in 1947, she married Ken Mori, a textile businessman whom she had met one year earlier.

However, Mori soon grew frustrated with the societal expectations of being a traditional Japanese housewife, and began searching for a way to express herself. Fueled by the desire to make clothing for herself and her children, and encouraged by her husband, she began attending dressmaking classes at the Dressmaker Jogakuin (ドレスメーカー女学院). She soon opened her first atelier, Hiyoshiya (ひよしや), in 1951. This shop was a small establishment in Shinjuku located directly across from the Musashinokan movie theater. Mori recalled that she began to regularly hold fashion shows at a nearby coffee shop, which helped her gain customers and media coverage in publications like Soen. After being approached by a film director to make costumes for his next film, she designed wardrobes for hundreds of movies over the next several years, working for directors like Yasujirō Ozu and Masahiro Shinoda. During this period, Mori opened another store in the upscale Ginza district in 1955. This boutique, along with her costume design work, helped solidify her profile in Japan as a talented dressmaker for famous actresses. In 1960, she earned a Fashion Editors Club of Japan award for her costume designs.

The following year, Mori took a break from the film industry and took a trip to Paris, where she visited Coco Chanel for a fitting. This encounter left her with a newfound admiration for the French designer. Chanel's bolder design choices made her realize that she could deviate from conservative Japanese design in order to "help a woman stand out". Recalling the experience, she said:

At that time the fashion houses were headed by men — Dior, Cardin, Givenchy — who all saw women as beautiful but kind of in the service of men, who bought dresses for them to show off their own male prestige. Chanel was different, and by far the best. Her clothes were for women and about women.

Mori additionally visited New York later that year, and was surprised by the lack of quality Japanese-made clothes in its department stores. Inspired by Chanel's industry success, and determined to prove that the Japanese could sell designer clothes abroad, Mori went back to Tokyo to study Japanese clothing aesthetics. During this time frame, Mori was invited to a few designer showings. She participated in the California International Trade Fair and Industrial Exposition in April 1959, as well as the first International Fashion Festival in Las Vegas in April 1964. Mori was also invited to attend a showing for the Colombian government in 1962, with another showing in Egypt in 1963.

Global success (1965–)

By 1965, Mori had grown her business in Japan, opening shops in Nagoya, Hiroshima, Kyoto and Kyushu along with multiple stores in Tokyo. In January of that year, she traveled to New York to present her first overseas collection, "East Meets West", at the Hotel Delmonico. The collection was seen by 300 guests, including some American fashion journalists that she had personally invited. Well-received by critics, Mori's outfits garnered interest by businessmen like Stanley Marcus, who contacted her after the show to order some clothes for his wife. Impressed by the designer's fitting abilities, Marcus partnered with Mori to have her designs be sold in Neiman Marcus stores in the United States.

Mori's growing popularity in the west coincided with her establishment as a prominent designer in Japan. She became a fashion advisor for then-Crown Princess Michiko and Princess Hitachi, helping to design the latter's wardrobe for her tour of Europe in late 1965. In 1966, she began publishing Mori Hanae Ryuko-Tsushin (森英恵流行通信), a pamphlet of fashion advice initially published three times a month as an in-store gift. The pamphlet would later be renamed to simply Ryuko-Tsushin, and by 1970, it developed into a fully-fledged fashion magazine covering news and industry trends. Outside of Japan, Mori's business deal with Neiman Marcus helped boost her profile to the American general public. By 1970, over a dozen American department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, were carrying Hanae Mori brand clothes. In 1973, Mori found a couple of spaces in New York that would become store locations for her brand. She purchased a townhouse at 27 East 79th Street in Manhattan for $750,000, moving in three years later on September 24, 1976 to use it as both a home and a showroom. She also opened a second New York boutique on 550 7th Avenue.

Paris fashion house

A 1976 Newsweek article stated that Mori's sales reached $70 million that year. In January 1977, Mori opened a fashion house on the Avenue Montaigne in Paris. In 1979, Mori partnered with the publisher of Women's Wear Daily, Fairchild Publications, to release a Japanese version of the trade journal.

Later work

She was in contact with the Iwami Art Museum in Masuda, with her work being featured in several of the museum's exhibitions.

Artistry

Style

I realized early that there is no need for me, as a Japanese, to design dresses from a Westerner's point of view. It is essential for me to design naturally using original Japanese materials. I am not worried by the fact that Japanese have little experience in Western clothes. My intention is to see clearly the difference between Japanese and Western clothes and apply the merits of the Kimono in dress design.

Hanae Mori, 1968 interview for The East magazine

Mori was best known for her feminine designs that combined Parisian haute couture with Japanese textiles and aesthetics. While her garments were largely elegant and sophisticated, she also liked using vibrant colors and bold patterns to add a modern touch to the traditional Japanese textures. Unlike fellow contemporaries like Kenzō Takada, who became famous in Paris for his avant-garde ready-to-wear collections, Mori adhered closely to traditional haute couture principles. Her luxurious designs helped her gain celebrity clients like Grace Kelly, Nancy Reagan, Imelda Marcos, and Dewi Sukarno. Her emphasis on femininity was best expressed by her signature butterfly motifs, which in Japan symbolize womanhood. To Mori, they reminded her of her countryside childhood playing with butterflies.

Throughout her career, she used a wide variety of materials, many of which were Japanese fabrics inspired by kimono prints and kabuki theater. Mori was insistent on using Japanese materials, and went to great lengths to source authentic textiles. Prior to her 1965 collection being shown in New York, she traveled to various textile manufacturers throughout Japan in search of suitable kimono fabrics wide enough for Western-style clothing. However, Mori was aware of regional tastes, and created different product lines to cater to Japanese customers that preferred Western styles.

In addition to haute couture, Mori produced ready-to-wear clothing that was sold in various department stores worldwide. She also lent her name to Hanae Mori-branded goods such as Martex linen bedsheets. Throughout her career, Mori was willing to experiment in other areas of fashion. She designed several uniforms for various organizations, such as Japan Airlines, the Japanese team for the Barcelona Olympics, schools, and a taxi company.

Influences

Mori's fascination with Japanese materials can be traced back to her experiences during postwar Japan. The scarcity of fabric after World War II led to Japanese women repurposing clothing like kimonos into new outfits. This was one of the factors that led to the popularity of Western-style clothing, or yofuku, amongst women. In her memoirs, Mori recalled creating yofuku from her mother's kimonos, which helped spark her interest in making clothes. Her enrollment in dressmaking school then gave her a formal education on Western sewing techniques, which would form the basis for the strong seamstress abilities that enabled her to thrive in the Parisian scene.

Additionally, Mori credited her time spent designing at Hiyoshiya as a major influence on her work. At her atelier, she was able to design for a wide variety of women, including the wives of American military officers during the occupation of Japan. Mori found the uniquely American patterns that they brought to her striking, and was fascinated by the way American women factored in their silhouette when making fashion choices. Furthermore, her work in costume design for the Japanese film industry gave her hands-on experience on how to express personality through clothing. Working for film directors allowed her to learn how to create unique silhouettes for characters, and as color films became more prominent, Mori started incorporating the vivid palettes she was known for later in her career into her costume work.

Mori's determination to succeed in haute couture stemmed from a multitude of factors. Her visit to Coco Chanel in 1961 opened her eyes on how to dress for women. Mori's trip to New York that same year also influenced her decision. Disappointed that none of the department stores in New York carried Japanese designer clothing, Mori was critical of her home country's preoccupation with imitating Western designs, believing that Japanese silk and clothing would be popular abroad. She was further dismayed by a showing of the opera Madama Butterfly, which she believed portrayed Japanese women as weak and submissive. These events shaped Mori's mission to redefine how Japanese women were viewed in society; by adopting the butterfly motif, she aimed to change people's image of Japanese women to one of "strength and vibrance".

Legacy and influence

• Pioneer in giving Japanese fashion an international audience
  • Described by Robert Trumbull of The New York Times as a post-war success story
  • Known as the first Japanese designer to become popular in the west
  • Time: "Mori symbolized the rise of Japan as a modern, fashionable nation and the rise of the working woman."
  • Her insistence on providing women with fashionable yet professionable office attire helped empower working women throughout the 1970s and 1980s
  • Her recogntion as a haute couture designer helped pave the way for others: Rei Kawakubo, Issei Miyake, Kenzo Takada
  • Mori recalled that Kenzo, Kansai Yamamoto and Miyake would meet her at her studio frequently when they were starting their design careers
  • Miyake: "It was a push for me to do something. She showed the rest of us courage."
  • Research Akiko Fukai: "At a time when the industry had not been established, she shaped what it meant to work as a designer."
  • Stanley Marcus stated that "in a period when most designers in the United States and France seemed to have lost a sense of direction, Hanae Mori persisted in making fashionable dresses whose function was to make women more attractive."
• Mori's presence as a female business leader was rare in Japan at the time
  • Former Shiseido president Yoshiharu Fukuhara: "It's the combination of her aggressive business sense enveloped by this elegant aura that has attracted so many people in Japan."
  • In 1976, The San Bernardino Sun reported that in an effort to promote equality, approximately half of her executive company leadership was women

Nikkei Asia short article on her death

Nikkei Asia obituary

Personal life

In 1946, Mori met Ken Mori, a textile businessman who she married one year later. Throughout their marriage, Ken played an instrumental part in Mori's success as a fashion designer. He encouraged her to follow her passions and take dressmaking classes, and later helped her set up her first atelier. Since Mori did not study business, he helped run the business operations of Hiyoshiya, and later the Hanae Mori brand, while the designer handled the creative design. Ken died on October 16, 1996 of a heart attack.

Mori had two sons with Ken named Akira and Kei. Both children helped to run Mori's business. Her granddaughters, Hikari Mori and Izumi Mori, are both models.

On August 11, 2022, Mori died in her home in Tokyo. A representative declined to give a cause of death, but confirmed that she had developed a fever two days prior. Funeral services were held shortly after her death.

Mori was born in Muikaichi, Shimane. After graduating from Tokyo Women's Christian University, she married and attended dress-making school. She opened her first atelier, Hiyoshiya, in 1951, and over the next several years designed costumes for hundreds of movies. In 1965, she presented her first New York collection, "East Meets West." Twelve years later, she opened an haute couture showroom in Paris, leading to her appointment as a member of La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.

Mori designed three consecutive uniforms for the flight attendants of Japan Air Lines (JAL). The first uniform was worn from 1967 to 1970; the second, which created a sensation by featuring a miniskirt, worn from 1970 to 1977; and the third worn from 1977 to 1988. From 1989 to 1996, Mori employed Dominique Sirop as a designer. He became a grand couturier in 1997. In 1992, Mori designed the official uniform for the Japanese Delegation to the Barcelona Olympics and, in 1994, the official uniform for the Japanese Delegation to the Lillehammer Olympics. Also in 1993, Masako, Crown Princess of Japan wore a sleeveless white gown designed by Mori for her wedding ceremony. Mori had the patronage of Masako, Crown Princess of Japan, Hillary Clinton, Nancy Reagan Renata Tebaldi and Princess Grace of Monaco Grace Kelly.

Amidst company financial struggles, Mori sold the ready-to-wear and licensed apparel operations in January 2002 to an investment group formed by Japanese trading company Mitsui & Co. and the Rothschild group in Britain. Opting for fast-track corporate rehabilitation, the company then applied to the Tokyo District Court for protection from its creditors on May 30, 2002, as it had ¥10,100,000,000 (US$81,000,000) in liabilities.

Mori announced her retirement in June 2004, stating that she would be closing her fashion house after the Haute Couture Show for Fall 2004 in Paris. She held her last fashion show in July of that year.

Later life

Mori has retired from the runway but still has a few boutiques in Tokyo's Harajuku neighborhood, including one in the Hotel Okura. Her fragrance division, Hanae Mori Parfums, is still active and produces a series of acclaimed fragrances including Hanae Mori Butterfly for women, HM for Men and Hanae Mori Magical Moon for women. Hanae Mori Parfums are made in France and distributed worldwide. It can be purchased throughout the United States at stores such as Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale's, Macy's and Sephora. Hanae Moir Manuscrit is a line currently designed by Yu Amatsu.

Personal life

In 1946, Mori met Ken Mori, a textile businessman who she later married. Ken died on October 16, 1996 of a heart attack. Mori had two sons with Ken named Akira and Kei. Both children help run Mori's business. Her granddaughters, Hikari Mori and Izumi Mori, are both models.

In 1946, Mori met Ken Mori, a textile businessman who she later married. Ken died on October 16, 1996 of a heart attack. Mori had two sons with Ken named Akira and Kei. Both children help run Mori's business.

Awards

In 1988, she received a Medals of Honor (Japan) of Purple Ribbon by the Government of Japan. In 1989 Mori was awarded the French Legion of Honor by President François Mitterrand of France. In 1996 Mori was awarded the Order of Culture by the Emperor of Japan.

Style

Mori signature design inspiration is the butterfly. In addition to serving clients including Princess Grace of Monaco and Crown Princess Masako of Japan, for whom Mori made a wedding gown, Mori has made costumes for operas including "Madame Butterfly" and "Elektra", ballets including "Cinderella" and musicals such as the Japanese production of "Evita". She has created designs for shoes, stockings, gloves, ties, belts, handbags, umbrellas, sunglasses, aprons, carpets, and lacquerware. She also has a range of fragrances, including Hanae Mori and Hanae Mori Butterfly. Her published books include Hanae Mori 1960-1989 and Fashion – A Butterfly That Flew Across the Border.

Legacy and influence

Stanley Marcus, the businessman who helped get Mori's designs into his stores, said that "in a period when most designers in the United States and France seemed to have lost a sense of direciton, Hanae Mori persisted in making fashionable dresses whose function was to make women more attractive."

Mori has been cited as an influence by other fashion designers. Japanese designer Issey Miyake noted that her success in America helped other Japanese designers like himself become successful abroad, saying, "It was a push for me to do something. She showed the rest of us courage."

Potential Links

Other

Hanae Mori Barbie - https://barbie.mattel.com/shop/en-us/ba/hanae-mori-barbie-doll-24994

• Release date: January 1, 2000

Books

Style Deficit Disorder: Harajuku Street Fashion - Tokyo - Tiffany Godoy

https://books.google.com/books?id=-L2GQ0Di8N0C&pg=PA1830&lpg=PA1830&dq=Mori+Hanae+Ryuko+Tsushin&source=bl&ots=h8BE24OT9U&sig=ACfU3U04RStWgtLqbatytiKnGUIQHIvGIg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj4tN_w2pDvAhUBip4KHZJyBSYQ6AEwD3oECBcQAw#v=onepage&q=Mori%20Hanae%20Ryuko%20Tsushin&f=false

• Ryuko Tsushin (Trend Communique) (1966) - a brand newsletter distributed for free per purchase at Mori's boutique in Ometesando
• By 1970, the magazine became available in bookstores with a new logo and art direction by Ikko Tanaka

Journals/Magazines

April 21, 1969 - https://archive.org/details/sim_marketing-insights_1969-04-21_3_27/page/18/mode/2up?q=%22hanae+mori%22 - Marketing Insights - Volume 3, Issue 27 - Advertising Publications, Chicago, Illinois - p. 18 - "Products"

• Shiseido (then largest toiletries manufacturer in Japan, and third-largest in the world after Avon and Revlon) announced its fourth product line called Hanae Mori fragrance in America
• Named after Mori
• Product line includes perfume, eau de cologne
• Prices range from US$12 (equivalent to $99.7 in 2023) for the aerosol, to US$45 (equivalent to $373.88 in 2023) for an ounce of the perfume

July 24, 1992 - https://archive.org/details/sim_dnr_1992-07-24_22/page/n11/mode/2up?q=%22hanae+mori%22 - Daily News Record - Fairchild Publications, New York, 1041-1119 - p. 12 - "The Breakdown on Barcelona" - Behind the Scene - Catherine Schetting Salfino, Sophie D'Aulnay, edited by Elizabeth Barr

• The Japanese Olympic team consisting of 500 athletes will wear uniforms designed by Hanae Mori
• Mori: "I was inspired by the Japanese national flag to make the team's uniform with a particular focus on comfort and esthetics."
• Uniform of navy pant suits and white polo shirts described as "simple and refreshing"

July 21, 1994 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/208212149?accountid=196403 - do Rosario, Louise. Far Eastern Economic Review; Hong Kong Vol. 157, Iss. 29,  (Jul 21, 1994): 82. - "Doyenne of Fashion" - Louise do Rosario

• Career
• '"Some people like avant-garde rag-like clothes, but I prefer clean, bright clothes," says Mori, wearing for the interview a dark blue suit and a white shirt with a laced collar. "Mine are something you can wear anywhere in the world without feeling embarrassed."'
• '"This is the era when women can make more choices," she says. "Until recently, men paid for the clothes and women wore the clothes men preferred them to wear. With economic independence, women are buying clothes they feel comfortable wearing."'
• $450 million USD empire, more than 70 boutiques around the world
• A founder of the Association for 100 Japanese Books - promotes Japan's literary traditions

January 2013 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/1296158697?accountid=196403 - Nelson, Karin. W; New York Vol. 42, Iss. 1,  (Jan 2013): n/a. - "Madame Butterfly" - Karin Nelson

• Career
• Mori "started her business in 1951 above a Tokyo noodle stand and turned it into a $230 million-a-year global dynasty"
• "[...] becoming the first and, to this day, the only Asian designer admitted to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture"
• Collections were a "parade of color and pattern"; include "silk cocktail dresses [that] were belted with obi-esque sashes, chiffon gowns [that] were cut like kimonos", and butterfly patterns

Articles

April 1, 1959 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=snb19590401-01.1.1&srpos=67&e=-------en--20--61--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - Shin Nichibei, 1 April 1959 - "International Designers Participate in Calfair Fashion Show"

• Mention of Mori participating in the California International Trade Fair and Industrial Exposition from April 4-12, 1959

September 14, 1961 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/historical-newspapers/japanese-stylist-finds-nothing-american-here/docview/115493883/se-2?accountid=196403 - New York Times - By CHARLOTTE CURTIS. New York Times (1923-Current file); New York, N.Y. [New York, N.Y]14 Sep 1961: 24. - "Japanese Stylist Finds Nothing American Here" - Charlotte Curtis

• Mori talks about her influences - "she feels she is influenced by Chanel, but she admires Balenciaga even more"
• "[...] she is proud of her own designs because she believes they combine traditional Japanese fabrics and essentially European lines in a manner that is suitable for Japan."
• Hanae Mori price point - retails for 10,800 yen (~$300 USD) - "[The clothes] are sold in two Tokyo shops to private customers, actresses and five of the six Japanese film companies."
• Talks about husband Ken Mori - "Mrs. Hanae's husband is chairman of the Japanese Designers Club, a division of the Japanese Education Ministry."

January 26, 1964 - https://access-newspaperarchive-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/us/pennsylvania/altoona/altoona-mirror/1964/01-26/page-2/ - Altoona Mirror Newspaper Archives January 26, 1964 Page 2 - "Fashion Market Collections Show Japanese Styles" - UPI

• Explains that Japan is promising as a new center of fashion: "There is a need for something new and different [...] there is a place for it, and a demand [...] I hope and believe that Japan can have an influence on the world of high fashion."
• Hopes to influence fashion in Japan as well: "Western styles were introduced in Japan 100 years ago, and Japan adopted and has held to the most conservative of the Western dress for women. In my collections [...] I am trying to influence the Japnese woman to be less conservative, to be modern, glamorous, smart, elegant."

April 19, 1964 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=snb19640419-01.1.2&srpos=75&e=-------en--20--61--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - Shin Nichibei, 19 April 1964 - "Japanese Designers in Las Vegas for Fashion Show"

• Mention of Mori participating in the first International Fashion Show

January 7, 1965 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/116723237/A469003341544BDCPQ/4?accountid=196403 - By MARYLIN BENDER. New York Times (1923-Current file); New York, N.Y. [New York, N.Y]07 Jan 1965: 35. - "Western-Style Clothes Are Designed in Japan" - Marylin Bender

• "A Japanese caravan has appeared in New York with the sole purpose of storming the American fashion industry."
• Details how Mori is coming to show a spring/summer collection of 68 designs at the Regency Hotel in New York
• "She is believed to be the first Japanese designer of consequence to attempt to sell Western-style clothes to American stores."
• "There are four Hanae Mori stores in Tokyo that carry her ready-to-wear, a custom salon in Ginza, a leased department in the Mitsukoshi department store, branch stores in Nagoya, Hiroshima, Kyoto and Kyushu as well as seven factories employing 300 seamstresses."
• Collection to be shown costs between $100-700 retail
• Mori has a column in weekly Asahi magazine, and a twice-monthly television show
• "Ms. Mori's collection is based on simple, straight silhouettes executed in extraordinary printed silks, most of which she designs herself. Cherry blossoms, butterflies and brush strokes are her favorite design motifs for fabrics."

January 12, 1965 - https://access-newspaperarchive-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/us/arizona/phoenix/phoenix-arizona-republic/1965/01-12/page-18/ - Phoenix Arizona Republic Newspaper Archives January 12, 1965 Page 18 - "Designers Display Wide Range of New Fashions" - Maxine Bartlett - p. 21 as written

• Fashion show at the Hotel Delmonico
• Hanae Mori's fashions described "designed in Japan, but intended for those who wear Western fashion"
• About the event: "The showing, at a dinner party given by Consul General and Mrs. Fumihiko Togo in the Delmonico's grand ballroom, drew guests in Western evening wear to mingle with dainty Japanese ladies in kimonos and obis."
• Collection included:
  • a "white wool cape coat with kimono sleeves and a matching slender sheath",
  • a "floral patterned pearl white knit coat accented at neck sleeves and hem with black silk faille",
  • a "black and white silk tweed coat with butterfly sleeves, white streamer collar, over a two piece, black and white silk print"
• Highlights:
  • an azalea silk moire trumpet coat overa matching dress banded in white fur",
  • a "sun gold silk satin coat over a dress of cascading gold scales",
  • a "short black satin dress topped by a tailored jacket of woven silver triangles",
  • a short evening wrap of chartreuse, gold and green mandarin silk obi fabric over a slender, full length sheath of pale green, strapless and with draped bodice"

January 12, 1965 - https://access-newspaperarchive-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/us/nebraska/lincoln/lincoln-evening-journal-and-nebraska-state-journal/1965/01-12/page-8/ - Lincoln Evening Journal And Nebraska State Journal Newspaper Archives January 12, 1965 Page 8 - "Inaugural Gown Exhibits Full-Length Trend" - Peg Zwecker

• Hanae Mori is described as "a fashion authority known throughout Asia", noted that this was the first time a well-known Japanese designer was showing in America
• Displayed "leisure at-home gowns and ensembles" that were "a true reflection of the kimono"
• Described colors "in cloisonne green, coral, delicate white and jade"

January 14, 1965 - https://access-newspaperarchive-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/us/arizona/tucson/tucson-daily-citizen/1965/01-14/page-23/ - Tucson Daily Citizen Newspaper Archives January 14, 1965 Page 23 - "Japanese Designer Blends Cultural With Functional" - Mary Gerdan

• Talks about Mori's first showing in America
• Mori "blends the rich cultural heritage of the Japanese kimono with functional, versatile ideas of westernized fashions"
• Describes her "coat silhouettes are full and flared with a generous use of scarves and wide kimono-like sleeves"
  • Evening wear: "black flowers bloom on an airy white silk chiffon coat with matching shantung dress"
  • Describes a "lustrous pearl-gray satin gown has a magnificently hand-beaded jacket, which, when removed, reveals a bare-backed bodice with criss-crossing of straps centered by a large, flashing jewel"
  • Final piece: "a white sakura bridal gown in silk chirimen, was appliqued with flowers at the neckline and down-floating back panels"

January 14, 1965 - https://access-newspaperarchive-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/us/new-york/rochester/rochester-catholic-courier-journal/1965/01-14/page-13/ - Rochester Catholic Courier Journal Newspaper Archives January 14, 1965 Page 13 - "Thru the Looking Glass: Latest Fashions" - Louise Wilson - p. 7 as written

• Explicitly calls the showing that Mori attended the American Designer showings
• States that "the most excitement of all has been generated by Madame Hanae Mori's collection: the absolute ultimate of any show I've ever seen before in New York, San Francisco, Paris."
• "While Madame Mori displays a beautiful blending of the rich cultural heritage of the Japanese kimono, developed and refined for centuries--her clothes have a functional look, a versatility that are very much at home here in the United States."
• Notes that the inspiration is from the textiles she uses; states that "her silhouettes were most often slender, feminized and dramatized with fabulous sleeves. Sometimes she used sleeves as replicas of butterflies. Other times, long slender, widening at the wristbone then slit on the inside seam clear to the elbow."
• Liked Mori's interpretation of a wedding gown

January 27, 1965 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=DS19650127.2.68&srpos=7&e=-------en--20--1--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - Desert Sun, Volume 38, Number 150, 27 January 1965 - "Japan New Center of High Style"

• Hanae Mori talks about the burgeoning Japanese influence on global fashion

February 7, 1965 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SBS19650207.1.48&srpos=2&e=-------en--20--1--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - San Bernardino Sun, Volume 18, 7 February 1965 - "Fashion Press Sees Exciting Japanese Couture Collection" - Meta Blackwell

• Career - representing Japan at 1962 Colombian government showing, same thing in 1963 Egypt; 1965 New York American Designer Series show at Hotel Delmonico; description of current 1965 collection

February 9, 1966 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=snb19660209-01.1.1&srpos=45&e=-------en--20--41--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - Shin Nichibei, 9 February 1966 - "Fashion Conscious Imperial Household Sets Style, Keeps Top Designers Busy"

• Mentions Hanae Mori's work with the Crown Princess and Hanako, Princess Hitachi

June 26, 1968 - https://archive.org/stream/dailycolonist19680626#page/n23/mode/1up/search/hanae+mori - The Daily Colonist (1968-06-26) page(24) - "New Fashion From Japan" - Eugenia Sheppard

• Light tidbits about Mori; mention of new Hanae Mori perfume; "She runs two made-to-order salons in Tokyo and twelve boutiques scattered throughout the country just to sell her ready-made clothes."

May 4, 1969 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SBS19690504.1.20&srpos=49&e=-------en--20--41--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - San Bernardino Sun, 4 May 1969 - "No See-Through In Offing for Japanese Girls"

• Hanae Mori mentions why Japanese women might avoid wearing sheer clothing (they like it, but might be self-conscious)

July 29, 1969 - http://pgnewspapers.pgpl.ca/fedora/repository/pgc:1969-07-29-06 - Prince George Citizen - July 29, 1969 - Page 6 - "Japanese designer gives East styles Western look"

• Early career; latest American collection - "Flight of the Orient" - Ban-Lon knit

January 18, 1970 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SBS19700118.1.37&srpos=15&e=-------en--20--1--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - San Bernardino Sun, Volume 23, Number 87, 18 January 1970 - "Japan's Fashion Leader is Making it Big in U.S." - Bernard Krisher

• Career - early start in film costume design and Ginza store opening; description of Mori workforce and workplace

May 24, 1970 - https://archive.org/stream/dailycolonist19700524#page/n21/mode/1up/search/hanae+mori - The Daily Colonist (1970-05-24) page(22) - "Doing the Town", "Travel prints delicate as Japanese poetry..." - Dorothy Fraser

• Description of Hanae Mori's dress designs for Ban-Lon under the Ciao label

November 27, 1971 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SBS19711127.1.5&srpos=24&e=-------en--20--21--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - San Bernardino Sun, 27 November 1971 - "Madame Mori Defied Tradition for Art" - Marian Christy

• Early life (fighting with father on occupation choice), marriage to Ken Mori, early career

January 4, 1973 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SBS19730114.1.45&srpos=3&e=-------en--20--1--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - San Bernardino Sun, Volume 69, Number 84, 14 January 1973 - "Chiffon Gowns Provide the Canvas For This Artist" - Marian Christy

• 1973 Spring/summer collection - chiffon; "40 American stores now feature Hanae Mori fashions [...]";mentions of people she's dressed (Lady Bird Johnson, Princess Pahleni [sic], Nancy Reagan, Imelda Marcos [Philippine president Ferdinand Marcos' wife]); attitude towards fashion

July 1, 1973 - https://www.nytimes.com/1973/07/01/archives/felt-and-huberth-firms-merge-news-of-the-realty-trade.html - The New York Times - "News of the Realty Trade" - Carter B. Horsley

• Hanae Mori purchases East Side townhouse at 27 East 79th Street for approximately $750,000
• "Hanae Mori, a Tokyo‐based designer, sells her clothes through Bergdorf Goodman and in a boutique in the Waldorf‐Astoria Hotel. She will use the Feigen building as her New York residence and as showroom for buyers."

July 29, 1973 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SBS19730729.1.25&srpos=26&e=-------en--20--21--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - San Bernardino Sun, 29 July 1973 - "Birds on the wing are fashion inspiration for fall" - Marian Christy

• 1973 Fall collection - bird inspirations; inspiration behind the bird theme

April 21, 1974 - https://www.nytimes.com/1974/04/21/archives/clothes-for-fall-mostly-casual-fashion-talk.html - The New York Times - "Clothes for Fall: Mostly Casual" - Bernadine Morris

• 1973 Fall/winter collection - "Japanese knitted styles were shown by Hanae, Mori in her New York headquarters at 27 East 79th Street, the former Feigen art gallery"
• "novel patterns in her sweaters" - "waistlength pullover with deep armholes", "other styles have roses, butterflies or lacy crochet bands worked into them"

April 24, 1975 - https://news.hrvh.org/veridian/?a=d&d=scarsdaleinquire19750424.2.65&srpos=3&e=-------en-20--1--txt-txIN-hanae+mori------ - Scarsdale Inquirer, Volume 57, Number 17, 24 April 1975 - "Fashion Show To Aid Hammond Museum"

• Pieces shown at Hammond Museum

July 21, 1975 - http://pgnewspapers.pgpl.ca/fedora/repository/pgc:1975-07-21-11 - Prince George Citizen - July 21, 1975 - Page 11 - "Mori shows fashion in Oriental print"

• 1975 Fall/winter collection - tent dresses in Oriental prints, etc.

November 18, 1975 - https://www.nytimes.com/1975/11/18/archives/fashion-talk-seventh-avenue-rediscovers-a-prizewinner.html - The New York Times - "Fashion Talk" - Bernadine Morris

• 1975 Fall/winter collection - "But there are definite signs that Hanae Mori, the Japanese designer,: is going Western." [...] "The mingling of Western design and Japanese prints is a happy one. Mrs. Mori teams her spectacular printed skirts with glittery tank topi or scoop neck sweaters and provides a variety of gossamer coats and capes to wrap them up in. Separates,, Japanese style."

September 30, 1976 - https://news.hrvh.org/veridian/?a=d&d=scarsdaleinquire19760930.2.69&srpos=1&e=-------en-20--1--txt-txIN-hanae+mori------ - Scarsdale Inquirer, Volume 58, Number 40, 30 September 1976 - "In Touch..." - Diana D. H. Lyons

• New Hanae Mori office in New York - 27 East 79 Street

October 15, 1975 - https://www.nytimes.com/1975/10/15/archives/bed-sheets-inspire-a-bright-new-world-of-design.html - The New York Times - "Bed Sheets Inspire a Bright New World of Design" - Enid Nemy

• Bed linens - "oriental influence" for Martex label

June 8, 1976 -https://www.nytimes.com/1976/06/08/archives/nofrills-american-look-sweeps-japan.html - The New York TImes - "No‐Frills American Look'Sweeps Japan" - Andrew H. Malcolm

• Examination of how the Japanese were buying cheap American items - "'Ten years ago we never thought of America as a fashion place,' said Yasuko Suita, assistant to Hanae Mori, one of Japan's best‐known designers, 'We thought of the United States as a place to sell a $1 blouse.' Recently, her company displayed, among other things; its $2,000 handprinted silk evening dresses at its New York showroom, 550 Seventh Avenue."

November 7, 1976 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SBS19761107.1.96&srpos=22&e=-------en--20--21--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - San Bernardino Sun, 7 November 1976 - "Mori prefers women flowery and independent" - Marian Christy

• Themes and inspiration; mentions son Aki (28 years old, graduate of Dartmouth College)

December 17, 1976 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SCS19761217.1.16&srpos=37&e=-------en--20--21--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - Santa Cruz Sentinel, Volume 120, Number 297, 17 December 1976 - "Japanese Designers Making Big Splash in International Fashion" - Kathryn Tolbert"

• "Hanae Mori recently opened her second boutique in New York [...]"

December 20, 1976 - https://people.com/archive/who-says-butterflies-are-free-on-a-hanae-mori-gown-they-cost-700-and-up-vol-6-no-25/ - People - "Who Says Butterflies Are Free? on a Hanae Mori Gown, They Cost $700 and Up"

• Life and career

January 25, 1977 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/01/25/mini-midas-billowy-prints-and-a-million-dollar-dress/f9fd12e2-49c2-4b7a-8b5a-f86e37ddf749/ - The Washington Post - "Mini-Midas, Billowy Prints, And a Million Dollar Dress" - Nina S. Hyde

• "Important to watch, too, will be the entrance of Hanae Mori, a Japanese-born designer who has opened a house on the Avenue Montaigne. Mori is a master of prints and handpainting, particularly appealing in silk chiffon."

January 26, 1977 - https://archive.org/stream/dailycolonist19770126#page/n23/mode/1up/search/hanae+mori - The Daily Colonist (1977-01-26) page(24) - "Paris challenged by Tokyo designer"

• Opening new Paris salon on Thursday (January 27, 1977)

April 21, 1977 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SCS19770421.1.14&srpos=29&e=-------en--20--21--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - Santa Cruz Sentinel, Volume 121, Number 91, 21 April 1977 - "Fragile Designs Tender Fabrics" - Dolores Barclay

• 1977 Fall collection - "Full, flowing, fragile designs in tender fabrics and ice cream fantasy colors [...]"

July 29, 1977 - https://www.nytimes.com/1977/07/29/archives/2-women-work-their-magic-with-fabric.html - The New York Times - 2 Women Work Their Magic With Fabric - Bernadine Morris

• 1977 Fall collection - landscape and flower prints; "crunchy tweed suit with the tiny Spencer jacket, dirndl skirt and ruffled blouse", evening versions of Spencer jacket; on-trend "voluminous" silk coat and quilted jackets

October 27, 1977 - https://www.nytimes.com/1977/10/27/archives/sunshine-from-paris-billows-and-blousing.html - The New York Times - "Sunshine From Paris: Billows and Blousing" - Bernadine Morris

• Opened her house early this year (1977)
• 1978 Spring collection - "romantic dresses", "bloused pants, caught at the ankles" ("in muted cotton plaids" and "plaid taffeta"); silk dresses

November 12, 1977 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/11/12/a-fashionable-debut/97de65b9-6971-4484-b3b1-953b2a6d5370/ - The Washington Post - "A Fashionable Debut" - Donnie Radcliffe, Nina S. Hyde

• Mori showcased a collection in an invitation from the ambassador of Japan and his wife at a newly-built embassy

December 15, 1977 - https://www.nytimes.com/1977/12/15/archives/home-beat.html - The New York Times - "Home Beat" - Joan Kron

• "Robert Currie, the former window display artist, now a decorator, has pulled out a plum. He's designing Hanae Mori's new clothing department store in Tokyo and redoing her space in the Waldorf."

January 27, 1978 - https://www.nytimes.com/1978/01/27/archives/paris-the-dress-has-its-day.html - The New York Times - "Paris: The Dress Has Its Day" - Bernadine Morris

• Collection - "silk raincoats", "delicately spaced prints on organdy and chiffon" => "The emphasis at Hanae Mori is on fragile, formal clothes that meet the needs of members of the diplomatic corps and of other women with busy social lives."

January 31, 1978 - https://archive.org/stream/dailycolonist19780131#page/n20/mode/1up/search/hanae+mori - The Daily Colonist (1978-01-31) page(21) - "Spring look is light and airy"

• "Next spring and summer" collection - "feminine, zephyr-light clothes"

July 28, 1978 - https://www.nytimes.com/1978/07/28/archives/paris-couture-collections-end-with-a-salute-to-tradition.html - The New York Times - "Paris Couture Collections End With a Salute to Tradition" - Bernadine Morris

• 1978 Fall/winter collection - Japanese inspiration - "Kimonos in luminous prints, complete with obis", "Quilted jackets with decorative appliqués", "Two narrow black dresses decorated with abstract appliquéd designs"

August 28, 1978 - https://nyshistoricnewspapers.org/lccn/sn88074337/1978-08-28/ed-1/seq-7/#date1=01%2F01%2F1725&sort=relevance&date2=12%2F31%2F2018&searchType=advanced&SearchType=prox5&sequence=0&index=13&words=Hanae+Mori&proxdistance=5&to_year=2018&rows=20&ortext=&from_year=1725&proxtext=hanae+mori&phrasetext=&andtext=&dateFilterType=range&page=3 - Courier express., August 28, 1978, Page 7, Image 7 - "Fine Fabrics Mark Mori Styles"

• Talking about her Citywear '79 collection

September 26, 1978 - https://www.nytimes.com/1976/09/26/archives/business-roundup-today-tokyo-tomorrow-the-world.html - The New York Times - "Business Roundup"

• Career
• Opens boutique last week in New York; plans to open fashion house on Avenue Montaigne in Paris January next year (January 1979)
• $70 million in sales last year (1978) - includes sales from other companies producing items under the Hanae Mori name - Cole of California swimwear, Martex towels, etc.

February 15, 1979 - https://www.nytimes.com/1979/02/15/archives/advertising-blue-nun-turns-to-television.html - The New York Times - "Advertising"

• Announced that WWD will be published in Japanese starting May 11, 1979
• "joint venture, Fairchild‐Mori, owned by Fairchild Publications of the United States and Hanae Mori International of Japan and will be called WWD for Japan"
• "circulation is expected to be somewhere in the 5,000‐to‐10,000 range, and ad rates will be $1,500 for a black‐and‐white page ‐and $2,000 for four‐color"

July 27, 1979 - https://www.nytimes.com/1979/07/27/archives/innovation-from-perspook-classics-from-gres-a-graceful-look.html - The New York Times - "Innovation From Per Spook, Classics From Gres" - Bernadine Morris

• 1979 Fall collection - chemises "feature the same kind of contrasting piping that outline her suits: black edging for a red satin dress, silver for a black chemise"; chiffons with "flowers picked out in beading"; heart shape symbols on "belt buckles, breast pockets and even on stockings"

July 30, 1979 - https://www.nytimes.com/1979/07/30/archives/accessories-in-paris-that-oldtime-glamour.html - The New York Times - "Accessories in Paris: That Old‐Time Glamour" - Bernadine Morris

• 1979 Fall/winter collection - "[...] As a result, attention has shifted to stockings, mostly sheer and dark and adorned with clocks. Hanae Mori's heart‐shaped clocks in red on black stockings are the most adventuresome, [...]"

October 18, 1979 - https://www.nytimes.com/1979/10/18/archives/paris-audience-is-cool-to-the-new-revealing-fashions.html - The New York Times - "Paris Audience Is Cool to the New Revealing Fashions" - Bernadine Morris

• 1980 Spring/summer collection - "Predictably, the prints are outstanding, especially the Japanese‐flavored ones, with misty pink flowers drifting on a green chiffon field or orange flowers in a haze of pale chiffon."

November 21, 1979 - https://nyshistoricnewspapers.org/lccn/sn88075724/1979-11-21/ed-1/seq-40/#date1=01%2F01%2F1725&index=0&date2=12%2F31%2F2018&searchType=advanced&SearchType=prox5&sequence=0&words=Hanae+Mori&proxdistance=5&to_year=2018&rows=20&ortext=&from_year=1725&proxtext=hanae+mori&phrasetext=&andtext=&dateFilterType=range&page=1 - Eagle-bulletin., November 21, 1979, Page 40, Image 40 - "Dazzling Designs Create Fashionable Treasures"

• Pieces from several designers (incl. Mori) showcased in 1979 Hershberg's Christmas catalog, the Couturier collection

January 10, 1980 - https://search.proquest.com/docview/1124963123?accountid=46584 - Trumbull, Robert. The Globe and Mail (1936-2016); Toronto, Ont. [Toronto, Ont]10 Jan 1980: T3. - "Hanae Mori -- Fashion Symbol - Robert Trumbull - p. T3

• Early career; company overview

April 29, 1980 - https://archive.org/stream/dailycolonist19800429#page/n18/mode/1up/search/hanae+mori - The Daily Colonist (1980-04-29) page(19) - "New York parades diverse look for fall" - Joanne Winship

• 1980 Fall/winter collection

May 2, 1980 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/293995278?accountid=196403 - Boston Globe - Marian Christy Globe Staff. Boston Globe (pre-1997 Fulltext); Boston, Mass. [Boston, Mass]02 May 1980: 1. - "Hanae Mori's Stylish Humor" - Marian Christy

• "Mori runs a fashion empire of 15 companies and has 1200 employees."
• "Mori is to clothes what Nikon is to cameras. But she hasn't stopped there. She also has a gourmet French restaurant, L'Orangerie, on the top floor of a five-story Mori fashion house in Tokyo. And the Tokyo Women s Wear Daily is published jointly by the Hanae Mori Company and Fairchild Publications of New York. Her other son, Akira,is the editor."

May 6, 1980 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/386944581?accountid=196403 - The Globe and Mail; Toronto, Ont. [Toronto, Ont]06 May 1980: F.4. - "Mori unveils her new print design"

• Collection - sweater dresses - "all in black and white, geometric, asymmetric, and abstract designs, and stripes, both horizontal, vertical and diagonal"
• Prints - "the best were the red foxes in a trompe l'oeil effect"
• Evening wear - "bias cuts, asymmetrically cut skirts, and circle hemlines"; "sexy black evening dresses with low back nude effects, and black sequin flower motifs clinging to black chiffon"
• Chiffon gowns "in myriad colors and prints were in the always beautiful Mori tradition"

August 6, 1980 - https://archive.org/stream/dailycolonist19800806#page/n29/mode/1up/search/hanae+mori - The Daily Colonist (1980-08-06) page(30) - Romance sets the tone

• 1980 Winter collection - Renaissance/romantic-style clothes

September 9, 1980 - https://search.proquest.com/docview/1125110204?accountid=46584 - The Globe and Mail (1936-2016); Toronto, Ont. [Toronto, Ont]09 Sep 1980: F6. - "Hanae Mori evening gown prettiest"

• "[...] prettiest dress in the Hanae Mori collection is a one-shoulder evening style with a tucked chiffon bodice in shades of grey and a skirt printed in a flower pattern that suggests Japanese paintings. It is an amalgam of Oriental and Western fashion, the kind of design that Mrs. Mori, who is a prominent couturier in Japan, does best."

January 20, 1981 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=DS19810120.2.131&srpos=1&e=-------en--20--1--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - Desert Sun, Number 138, 20 January 1981 - "Pathfinders slate fashion show"

• 1981 Spring collection

January 30, 1981 - https://www.nytimes.com/1981/01/30/style/per-spook-a-spare-freshness.html - The New York Times - "Per Spook: A Spare Freshness" - Bernadine Morris

• (1981 Spring collection) - evening dresses - "Art Nouveau prints on chiffon and leopard prints that are gilded with bugle beads"

March 13, 1981 - https://nyshistoricnewspapers.org/lccn/sn84031482/1981-03-13/ed-1/seq-5/#date1=01%2F01%2F1725&sort=relevance&date2=12%2F31%2F2018&searchType=advanced&SearchType=prox5&sequence=0&index=0&words=Hanae+Mori&proxdistance=5&to_year=2018&rows=20&ortext=&from_year=1725&proxtext=hanae+mori&phrasetext=&andtext=&dateFilterType=range&page=3 - The Palladium-times., March 13, 1981, Page 5, Image 5 - "Colors Dazzle Spring"

• 1981 Spring collection; description of Mori's success; mention of her opening a Paris store

April 9, 1981 - https://www.nytimes.com/1981/04/09/garden/saint-laurent-quiet-classics-and-glitter.html - The New York Times - "Saint Laurent: Quiet Classics And Glitter" - Bernadine Morris

• 1981 Fall/winter collection - worked with leather for the first time - "leather knickers with a checked wool jacket, leather bloused jacket with a patterned wool skirt"
• evening dress - "beaded shift with butterflies" of blue, purple, or gold; wore outfits with "matching helmets that covered their hair"

April 24, 1981 - https://nyshistoricnewspapers.org/lccn/sn88074337/1981-04-24/ed-1/seq-19/#date1=01%2F01%2F1960&city=&date2=12%2F31%2F2018&searchType=advanced&SearchType=prox5&sequence=0&lccn=&index=9&words=Hanae+Mori&proxdistance=5&sort=relevance&to_year=2018&rows=20&ortext=&from_year=1960&proxtext=hanae+mori&county=&phrasetext=&andtext=&dateFilterType=range&page=2 - Courier express., April 24, 1981, Page 19, Image 19 - "Starfish Motifs Run Through Designs - Bernadine Morris

• Spring collection - starfish motif

April 28, 1981 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/386775517?accountid=196403 - The Globe and Mail; Toronto, Ont. [Toronto, Ont]28 Apr 1981: F.6. - "Paris leather look"

• "Hanae Mori showed a collection at the pret-a-porter in which she worked with leather for the first time - leather knickers with a checked wool jacket, a leather bloused jacket with a patterned wool skirt."
• "The piece de resistance of the Mori styles continues to be the dramatic evening dress. This time she focuses on the beaded shift with butterflies. The skin-tight styles are beaded all over in shades of blue, purple or gold; the butterflies are multi-colored and they settle on the shoulders. The models wear these with matching helmets that cover their hair."

May 13, 1981 - https://www.nytimes.com/1981/05/13/business/advertising-w-now-10-continuing-to-grow.html - The New York Times - "Advertising; W, Now 10, Continuing To Grow" - Philip H. Dougherty

• Been publishing Japanese-language version of WWD three years ago in a joint venture with Fairchild Publications

May 23, 1981 - https://www.nytimes.com/1981/05/23/style/a-group-of-major-designers-offer-their-views-in-fur.html - The New York Times - "A Group Of Major Designers Offer Their Views In Fur" - Angela Taylor

• "Hanae Mori's designs for the same house [Goldin-Feldman] included ranch mink coats with broadtail yokes, a lot of capelet collars and a very pretty black broadtail jacket with a ruffled neckline."

July 31, 1981 - https://www.nytimes.com/1981/07/31/style/gres-mori-and-spook-end-showings.html - The New York Times - "Gres, Mori And Spook End Showings" - Bernadine Morris

• 1981 Fall collection - "dramatically beautiful" Japanese prints , "some prints were re-embroidered with sparkling beads",

August 8, 1981 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/294194830?accountid=196403 - Boston Globe (pre-1997 Fulltext); Boston, Mass. [Boston, Mass]08 Aug 1981: 1. - "BSO Gets Major Gift"

• First announcement that Mori donated $200,000 to the Boston Symphony Orchestra for fall world tour

August 13, 1981 - https://nyshistoricnewspapers.org/lccn/sn88074337/1981-08-13/ed-1/seq-18/#date1=01%2F01%2F1960&city=&date2=12%2F31%2F2018&searchType=advanced&SearchType=prox5&sequence=0&lccn=&index=10&words=Hanae+Mori&proxdistance=5&sort=relevance&to_year=2018&rows=20&ortext=&from_year=1960&proxtext=hanae+mori&county=&phrasetext=&andtext=&dateFilterType=range&page=2 - Courier express., August 13, 1981, Page 18, Image 18 - "Boston Designers Dress Snobs" - Marian Christy

• 1982 Fall/winter collection - "mostly suedes and leathers mixed with wool flannel"; is a "complete switch from the signature chiffon prints"
• Mori: "Certain fashions keep forever. [...] Good leather clothes are like pearls or a fine gold bracelet. Leathers are like things of beauty meant to have what might be called an everlasting life."

August 18, 1981 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/294089611?accountid=196403 - Kathryn Tolbert Globe Staff. Boston Globe (pre-1997 Fulltext); Boston, Mass. [Boston, Mass]18 Aug 1981: 1. - "A Reunion at Tanglewood" - Kathryn Tolbert

• Mori donates $200,000 for the Boston Symphony Orchestra's 100th anniversary world tour to help out her friend, BSO conductor Seiji Ozawa
• "Mori said that [Ozawa's wife] Vera Ozawa designs children's clothes that are marketed under the label Vivid-Vera, Vivid being Mori's pret-a- porter line."

October 11, 1981 - https://www.nytimes.com/1981/10/11/arts/art-museum-a-symbol-of-turnabout-in-japan.html - The New York Times - "Art Museum A Symbol Of Turnabout In Japan" - Henry Scott Stokes

• "Hanae Mori, head of a fashion empire, donated the Boston Symphony Orchestra, for the group's centennial tour of Japan and Europe."

November 3, 1981 - https://www.nytimes.com/1981/11/03/arts/ozawa-and-von-karajan-on-gala-tours-of-japan.html - The New York Times - "Ozawa and Von Karajan On Gala Tours of Japan"

• Boston Symphony Orchestra goes on tour celebrating 100th anniversary; partially sponsored by Hanae Mori

January 28, 1982 - https://www.nytimes.com/1982/01/29/style/evening-glamour-sporty-days.html - The New York TImes - "Evening Glamour, Sporty Days" - Bernadine Morris

• Collection - "her most spectacular designs were flowers", "fragile-looking jeweled jackets"

February 23, 1982 - https://search.proquest.com/docview/1240454761?accountid=46584 - The Globe and Mail (1936-2016); Toronto, Ont. [Toronto, Ont]23 Feb 1982: F6. - "Paris pants in all lengths"

• "The Japanese couturiere Hanae Mori has done flattering versions for young women - in ballooning ottoman silk, matched with a sailor or strapless corset top."

May 23, 1982 - https://www.nytimes.com/1982/05/23/business/other-business-dressing-for-success-tokyo-style.html - The New York Times - "Other Business: Dressing For Success, Tokyo-style" - Terry Trucco

• Airline uniforms - "And since 1967, when Japan Air Lines commissioned Hanae Mori to come up with new suits for its stewardesses [...]"

June 27, 1982 - https://www.nytimes.com/1982/06/27/magazine/fashion-the-rising-prestige-of-tokyo.html - The New York Times - "Fashion: The Rising Prestige Of Tokyo" - June Weir

• Summary of accomplishments - "Today she controls a $300 million empire [...]"

July 20, 1982 - https://www.nytimes.com/1982/07/20/style/gallic-shrug-for-japan-s-style.html - The New York Times - "Gallic Shrug for Japan's Style" - Hebe Dorsey

• "Mori has her own elegant fashion salon on the Avenue Montaigne, a step away from Dior and Ungaro [...]"

July 30, 1982 - https://www.nytimes.com/1982/07/30/style/paris-finale-tradition-and-innovation.html - The New York Times - "Paris Finale: Tradition And Innovation" - Bernadine Morris

• Moves show from salon to hotel ballroom - Plaza Athenee hotel
• Collection - long wool coats, heavy tweed coat with "quilted mohair lining"; "big silk prints of butterflies or flowers exploding on diaphanous silk chiffon dresses"

November 30, 1982 - https://www.nytimes.com/1982/11/30/style/east-and-west-join-in-tokyo-fashion-show.html - The New York Times - "East And West Join In Tokyo Fashion Show" - Bernadine Morris

• "Best Five '83" - "shows took place in Miss Mori's headquarters, a five-story building that contains meeting rooms, restaurants and sufficient space for showings to an audience of 400. More than 1,000 people, at $35 a ticket, are exposed to each of the designer's collections."
• "Since 1965, when Miss Mori first showed her collection in New York and won orders from Neiman-Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and I. Magnin, Japanese designers have been traveling abroad to attract business."

December 3, 1982 - https://www.nytimes.com/1982/12/03/style/tokyo-embraces-best-five-designers.html - The New York Times - "Tokyo Embraces 'Best Five' Designers" - Bernadine Morris

• Hanae Mori helped organize the "Best Five" event for foreign designers to visit Japan and present their collections - "Mrs. Mori [...] had invited some designers to come to Tokyo two years before the series of Best Five annual shows began in 1980"
• Purpose: "rallying point for the presentations of lesser-known designers"; inexpensive labor from neighboring Asian countries

January 28, 1983 - https://www.nytimes.com/1983/01/28/style/per-spook-hanae-mori-and-gres-complete-paris-fashion-shows.html - The New York Times - "Per Spook, Hanae Mori and Gres Complete Paris Fashion Shows" - Bernadine Morris

• 1983 Spring/summer couture collection - "pale, shaded pastels"; "a variety of suits"

March 24, 1983 - https://www.nytimes.com/1983/03/24/garden/a-new-formality-at-saint-laurent.html - The New York Times - "A New Formality At Saint Laurent" - Bernadine Morris

• 1983 Fall/winter collection - "jersey shifts", "variations on the obi"; "familiar Art Deco forms were embroidered in jewels and sequins on simple pullovers"

April 2, 1983 - https://www.nytimes.com/1983/04/02/style/bavarian-wares-come-to-5th-ave-in-a-new-store.html - The New York Times - "Bavarian Wares Come To 5th Ave. In A New Store" - Suzanne Slesin

• Viennese architect Hans Hollein originally designed the building at 27 East 79th Street for the Richard L. Feigen gallery, but now Hanae Mori occupies that space

July 29, 1983 - https://www.nytimes.com/1983/07/29/style/paris-a-luxurious-finale.html - The New York Times - "Paris: A Luxurious Finale" - Bernadine Morris

• 1983 Fall/winter couture collection - "Wool suit jackets", "sweaters shown with knitted skirts"; evening dresses - "big, splashy prints on chiffon", "dresses with sparkling bodices", "prints involving Japanese calligraphy"

October 30, 1983 - https://search.proquest.com/docview/1313729097?accountid=46584 - The Globe and Mail (1936-2016); Toronto, Ont. [Toronto, Ont]30 Aug 1983: F12. - "Opulence Marks Vigorous Paris Lines"

• Mori has "accurately tuned into the couture preference for luxury. Wool suit jackets have elaborate embroidery in the front, sweaters shown with knitted skirts are shot with glitter threads and have abstract designs on the sleeves. Even capes have scalloped edges and elaborate appliques, including Mrs. Mori's signature, the butterfly."
• day clothes have "sophistication", but "Mori evening dresses are always the best things in the collection. This time there are big, splashy prints on chiffon, lavish jewel embroidery on yokes and collars and, best of all, dresses with sparkling bodices and prints involving Japanese calligraphy."

January 27, 1984 - https://www.nytimes.com/1984/01/27/style/from-per-spook-separates.html - The New York Times - "From Per Spook, Separates" - Bernadine Morris

• 1984 Spring/summer couture collection - "Half moons and irregular star shapes", "bead embroidery"

January 28, 1984 - https://www.nytimes.com/1984/01/28/style/in-paris-ties-hats-and-jewels.html - The New York Times - "In Paris: Ties, Hats and Jewels" - Bernadine Morris

• 1984 Spring/summer couture collection - jewelry - "The celestial shapes at Hanae Mori were the only amusing jewelry: crooked stars and quarter moons in silver outlined in rhinestones, pinned to lapels and appliqued to gloves."

March 4, 1984 - https://www.nytimes.com/1984/03/04/travel/shopper-s-world-in-tokyo-omote-sando-is-a-synonym-for-style.html - The New York Times - "Shopper's world; in Tokyo, omote-sando is a synonym for style" - Terry Trucco

• "[...] just past the big Omote-Sando/Aoyama Dori intersection, stands the Hanae Mori Building, a sleek structure designed by the architect Kenzo Tange and opened in 1978."

May 22, 1984 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/294281747?accountid=196403 - Hatfield, Julie. Boston Globe (pre-1997 Fulltext); Boston, Mass. [Boston, Mass]22 May 1984: 1. - "Fashion: Punk and Classical from Japan" - Julie Hatfield

• 1984 Fall/winter collection - "silk, cocktail dresses, knit sweater dresses, and long floaty chiffon gowns"
• "[...] proof the conservative look, if done with style, never dies."
• "'hoppi tuxedo', with evening tuxedo pants, black top, and red silk hoppi coat"
• evening wear - "fuchsia satin halter gowns", "ankle-length pink printed silk chiffon evening gown with one shoulder tied up in a ribbon of black satin", "art deco mauve beaded sweaters teamed with black satin short skirts"
• day wear - "knit sweater dresses in Missoni-like jewel tones and asymmetrical argyle patterns, wool wrap coats with kimono sleeves, and gray wool conservative suits touched with gray leather at the shoulders"

June 14, 1984 - https://www.nytimes.com/1984/06/14/business/designers-turn-to-boutiques.html - The New York Times - "Designers Turn to Boutiques" - Pamela G. Hollie

• Emphasis on selling in Hanae Mori boutiques - "''I don't think the name by itself sells the product these days, '' said Kei Mori, executive vice president of Hanae Mori U.S.A. and son of the Japanese designer. ''There is nothing better than a boutique so you can show your own image in your own atmosphere,'' he said."

July 24, 1984 - https://www.nytimes.com/1984/07/27/style/gr-es-a-special-touch-as-paris-shows-end.html - The New York TImes - "Gres: A Special Touch As Paris Shows End" - Bernadine Morris

• 1984 Fall/winter collection - "neatly tailored suits and coats embellished with Persian lamb or broadtail collars"; "tweed suit jackets" with "appliques of snakeskin in flower shapes"
• "long knitted tunics" in yellow, blue - butterfly symbol appliqued on tunics as well as "long, flowing printed chiffon skirts with crystal beaded bodices"

July 28, 1984 - https://www.nytimes.com/1984/07/28/style/from-paris-for-the-fall-elaborate-accessories.html - The New York Times - "From Paris For The Fall, Elaborate Accessories" - Bernadine Morris

• 1984 Fall/winter collection - "While patterned stockings were not unobtrusive, the ones Hanae Mori showed with rhinestone embroidery at the ankles were more glittery than most."

February 1, 1985 - https://www.nytimes.com/1985/02/01/style/as-the-showings-end-in-paris-sales-by-couture-houses-rise.html - The New York Times - "As the showings end in Paris, sales by couture houses rise" - Bernadine Morris

• Spring/summer collection - pink,blue, or grey chiffon dresses

March 28, 1985 - https://www.nytimes.com/1985/03/28/garden/hoods-and-minis-at-saint-laurent.html - The New York Times - "Hoods And Minis At Saint Laurent" - Bernadine Morris

• (1985 Fall/winter) Collection - dresses - "long black or red jersey dresses", "black velvet dresses with sheer panels of cut velvet spiraling around the body", "jeweled sweater-dresses with cloudlike patterns"

May 19, 1985 - POLLY RAYNER, Sunday Call-Chronicle. Morning Call; Allentown, Pa. [Allentown, Pa]19 May 1985: E.04. - "New York Designers Unveil Fall Collections" - Polly Rayner

• (1985 Fall/winter collection) - Mori "described her presentation as two collections in one. 'It's young, clean, crisp and simple in the daytime but, in the evening, evokes the spirit of romantic past.'"
• "The box-shaped coats are unlined; the satin sweater-dresses and jerseys are slinky, and the embroidered chiffon T-shirts paired with a black satin skirt are a perfect evening combination."

July 23, 1985 - https://www.nytimes.com/1985/07/23/style/the-effect-is-lavish-as-paris-couture-opens.html - The New York Times - "The Effect Is Lavish As Paris Couture Opens" - Bernadine Morris

• 1985 Fall/winter collection - daywear - "white wool coats with fur sleeves or stoles"; nightwear - "evening dresses rustled in changeable taffeta"
• "piece de resistance was, as usual, her marvelously beaded long sheath dresses in myriad colors and intricate patterns"

July 24, 1985 -http://pgnewspapers.pgpl.ca/fedora/repository/pgc:1985-07-24-27 - Prince George Citizen - July 24, 1985 - Page 27 - "Orient inspires new designs"

• Mori's involvement in 1985 Fall/winter collection for Haute Couturier fashion show based on 1940s-50s Asia

August 6, 1985 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/431241525?accountid=196403 - The Gazette; Montreal, Que. [Montreal, Que]06 Aug 1985: C4. - "Clothes designed to cling"

• (1985) Winter collection - "suits and coats in cardinal reds and emerald greens"; "cocktail dresses, often fastened at the hip or bust with sparkling rhinestone pins"; "white, diagonally buttoned coats and suits with toque hats"; "intricately embroidered jackets over pants or skirts for evening"
• "Fitted evening gowns ranged from light turquoise to midnight blue with sparkling decor and some draped chiffon numbers."

August 7, 1985 - https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1985-08-07-8502210528-story.html - Chicago Tribune - "Japan Designers Make Waves" - Tish Jett

• Hanae Mori's influence - "Hanae Mori, the doyenne of Japanese fashion, is credited with being not only an excellent designer, with a glittering international following, but also a remarkably magnanimous woman who, throughout her career, has helped and promoted new talent."

October 24, 1985 - https://www.nytimes.com/1985/10/24/garden/saint-laurent-s-buoyant-skirts-spare-boleros.html - The New York TImes - "Saint Laurent's Buoyant Skirts, Spare Boleros" - Bernadine Morris

• 1986 Spring/summer collection - Mori "chose peacock feathers as the theme for many of her prints and embroidered dresses"

December 22, 1985 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/285399079?accountid=196403 - Newsday, Combined editions; Long Island, N.Y. [Long Island, N.Y]22 Dec 1985: 11. - "Talk"

• Mori creates costumes for La Scala's production of Madame Butterfly

March 27, 1986 - https://www.nytimes.com/1986/03/27/garden/at-saint-laurent-glamorous-classics.html - The New York Times - "At Saint Laurent, Glamorous Classics" - Bernadine Morris

• 1986 Fall/winter collection - "longer suit jackets", "unusual prints", "beaded embroidery"

October 19, 1986 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1986-10-19-tm-5858-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "Bringing Up the Rear : Suddenly, a Prominent Posterior Is the Seat of Fashion Power" - Paddy Calistro

• "Even Japanese designer Hanae Mori, whose reputation was built on relatively conservative garb for the blueblood set, is showing tight jersey dresses that highlight the rump"

December 22, 1985 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1985/12/22/fashion-notes/783c2ffd-f271-49ce-90b0-bbd2ef24d6f1/ - The Washington Post - "Fashion Notes" - Nina Hyde

• La Scala production of Madame Butterfly - featuring Mori's costumes - debuted in Milan this week; is "Mori's first assignment as a theatrical designer"

January 28, 1986 - https://www.nytimes.com/1986/01/28/style/paris-openings-short-skirts-and-polo-shirts.html - The New York Times - "Paris Openings: Short Skirts And Polo Shirts" - Bernadine Morris

• (1986 Spring/summer collection) - evening dresses - "Peacock feather patterns embroidered in richly colored beads"; "simple black dresses" with rhinestone stars and comets; dinner suits - "tailored jackets encrusted with jewels"; butterflies on a number of dresses including bridal gown
• "Alexandre, the hairdresser, accompanied Mrs. Mori down the runway at the end in a tribute to his elaborate coiffures."

February 5, 1986 - https://www.nytimes.com/1986/02/05/garden/in-paris-a-season-of-the-hat.html - The New York Times - "In Paris, A Season Of The Hat" - Bernadine Morris

• 1986 Spring/summer collection - hats - "[...] while Hanae Mori's mannequins wore fussy small hats with lots of veiling"

July 29, 1986 - https://www.nytimes.com/1986/07/29/style/paris-couture-beads-feathers-and-furs.html - The New York Times - "Paris Couture: Beads, Feathers And Furs" - Bernadine Morris

• 1986 Fall/winter couture collection - "belted coats with full skirts", beaded dresses

September 7, 1986 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1986-09-07-tr-12477-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "High Fashion in Tokyo Felt in Other Capitals" - Jennifer Merin

• Hanae Mori Building in Omote-Sando, Tokyo - designed by Kenzo Tange in 1978 - corporate headquarters plus other Mori boutiques "specializing in scarfs and neckties, shoes and handbags, legwear, lingerie and costume jewelry"

November 17, 1986 - https://www.nytimes.com/1986/11/17/arts/paris-ballet-to-return-with-new-cinderella.html - The New York Times - "Paris Ballet to Return With New 'Cinderella'"

• "The costumes are by Hanae Mori, the couturier."

December 13, 1986 - http://pgnewspapers.pgpl.ca/fedora/repository/pgc:1986-12-13-28 - Prince George Citizen - December 13, 1986 - Page 28 - "Cashmere makes a comeback"

• Hanae Mori forms textile company to keep part of manufacturing process in China; plans to produce ~180,000 cashmere sweaters yearly; sweaters to be in stores next fall (Fall 1987)

January 11, 1987 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/travel/1987/01/11/childrens-delights-tucked-away-in-tokyo/26643a7d-8da1-4b53-8399-ed7f959b83f0/ - The Washington Post - "Children's Delights, Tucked Away In Tokyo" - John Burgess

• Mention of Japanese Barbie doll designed by Mori

January 27, 1987 - https://www.nytimes.com/1987/01/27/arts/the-paris-couture-opens-on-an-playful-note.html - The New York Times - "The Paris Couture Opens on an Playful Note" - Bernandine Morris

• 1987 Spring/summer collection - "Asymmetric closings, side-swept skirts, bare midriffs and peekaboo effects"

February 10, 1987 - https://www.nytimes.com/1987/02/10/style/from-paris-short-bright-nights.html - The New York Times - "From Paris, Short Bright Nights" - Bernadine Morris

• 1987 Spring/summer collection - short evening dress - "short dresses with the elaborately jeweled bodices usually associated with her most formal floor-length styles"

February 24, 1987 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/386012441?accountid=196403 - The Globe and Mail; Toronto, Ont. [Toronto, Ont]24 Feb 1987: C.8. - "New prints in taffeta at couture"

• (1987) Spring/summer couture collection - hats with "stiffened lace or cutout buckram"
• evening wear - glitter; butterfly design on "bright-colored, elaboratively beaded gowns"
• "The Mori talent for designing dresses that are seductive yet lady-like was demonstrated in lace-bodiced dance frocks with deep decolletes and black crepe dresses with decorative cutouts."

June 7, 1987 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1987/06/07/fashion-notes/358b0c65-8984-4b49-b9cd-e22f620f6d87/ - The Washington Post - "Fashion Notes" - Nina Hyde

• Paris Opera Ballet's Cinderella to be performed at the Metropolitan Opera in New York starting June 16
• Mori - $500 million company; "made more than 150 lavish costumes for this production of Cinderella"

June 11, 1987 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=TN19870611.1.21&srpos=72&e=-------en--20--61--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - Tustin News, Volume 65, Number 31, 11 June 1987 - Performing Arts Center's Season Promises Series of Ballet Events

• Mentions Mori's involvement providing costumes for the Paris Opera Ballet's performance of Cinderella

June 23, 1987 - https://www.nytimes.com/1987/06/23/style/notes-on-fashion.html - The New York Times - "Notes on Fashion" - Michael Gross

• Paris Opera Ballet's performance of Cinderella - for "$500,000, Hanae Mori, the couturier, created more than 150 costumes for the ballet", "also worked with Philip Baloun to create the dinner table decorations"
• Sylvie Guillem (Cinderella) will pose for photos after dinner in Mori's autumn collection, which will be shown in Paris next month (July 1987)

July 28, 1987 - https://www.nytimes.com/1987/07/28/style/in-paris-youth-is-the-new-wave.html - The New York Times - "In Paris, Youth Is the New Wave" - Bernadine Morris

• 1987 Fall/winter collection - evening dresses with patterns "suggested by the paintings of Paul Klee, which immediately added a playful note"; showed "young" styles like "short wool coats in bright colors"

November 22, 1987 - https://www.nytimes.com/1987/11/22/magazine/fashion-jeweled-artistry.html - The New York TImes - "Fashion: Jeweled Artistry" - Ruth La Ferla

• Jewelry accompanying fashion designer pieces - "[...] New York-based Takashi Wada, who made sculpted bracelets for the Japanese couturier Hanae Mori [...]"

December 26, 1987 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/435690182?accountid=196403 - Reuter. Toronto Star; Toronto, Ont. [Toronto, Ont]26 Dec 1987: S.11. - "Japan's new look wearable and leggy"

• 1988 Spring/summer collection - "safari suits" with "sensuous glove leathers in white and salmon pink with wide belts over very short skirts"
• Japanese-inspired series in "bold black-and-white dyed pedalpushers and trousers"
• "tongue-in-cheek" bridal wear - model wearing "ivory bubbled-hemmed mini" riding a white bicycle

January 26, 1988 -https://www.nytimes.com/1988/01/26/style/in-paris-giddy-mood-is-catching.html - The New York Times - "In Paris, Giddy Mood Is Catching" - Bernadine Morris

• 1988 Spring/summer couture collection - "slender strapless short dresses end in petals"

February 3, 1988 - https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SBS19880203.1.44&srpos=51&e=-------en--20--41--txt-txIN-hanae+mori-------1 - San Bernardino Sun, Volume 115, Number 34, 3 February 1988 - "Spring clothes breeze in - lighter, brighter than ever" - Bernadine Morris

• 1988 Spring/summer collection - brief description

July 10, 1988 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1988/07/10/fashion-notes/40fd58df-d67c-4e68-b954-c7623df945e4/ - The Washington Post - "Fashion Notes" - Nina Hyde

• Mori contributed costumes for Paris Opera Ballet's Cinderella - Ballet art director Rudolf Nureyev first saw Mori's work in La Scala's Madame Butterfly in 1985

July 19, 1988 - https://www.nytimes.com/1988/07/19/business/the-media-business-advertising-women-s-wear-daily.html - The New York Times - "The Media Business: Advertising: Women's Wear Daily" - Philip H. Dougherty

• WWD Daily - "The other Asian edition is a Japanese joint venture started with Hanae Mori International in 1979."

July 26, 1988 -https://www.nytimes.com/1988/07/26/style/in-paris-couture-opulence-lights-a-serious-mood.html - The New York TImes - "In Paris Couture, Opulence Lights A Serious Mood" - Bernadine Morris

• 1988 Fall/winter collection - "Draped wool suits and snugly fitted dresses are the pillars of Hanae Mori's collection. But a trio of unconstructed dresses - she calls them kimono-caftans - are fascinating examples of offbeat dressmaking."

September 15, 1988 - https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1988-09-15-8801300470-story.html - Chicago Tribune - "Pete Rose`s Time-out For `Kulchur,` A La National Lampoon" - James Warren

• Mention of September issue of Architectural Digest featuring the homes of many fashion designers, including Mori

September 28, 1988 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/294475419?accountid=196403 -Christy, Marian. Boston Globe (pre-1997 Fulltext); Boston, Mass. [Boston, Mass]28 Sep 1988: 75 - "Hanae Mori: Fashion and Feminism - Marian Christy

• Mori most proud that she came first in a recent "Most Admired Women" Tokyo poll
• "Women should dress like women rather than emulate men. I do not design men's clothes for women. There are only men and women on earth -- with some exceptions. It's important that men and women retain their distinctiveness."
• "Women who care about fashion must have polished bodies. No fat. But what's really important is a woman's intelligence, wit and charm. These are the qualities that make a woman elegant. The clothes she wears should just be a backdrop to her personality."

September 30, 1988 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1988-09-30-vw-2984-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "Madame Mori: Japan's Empress of Chic" - Mary Rourke

• Career; moved salon from New York to Paris in late 1970s

January 24, 1989 - https://www.nytimes.com/1989/01/24/style/fashion-lacroix-leads-way-to-a-lively-spring.html - The New York Times - "Fashion: Lacroix Leads Way To A Lively Spring" - Bernadine Morris

• 1989 Spring/summer couture collection - "coiffures and hair ornaments" - "gracious evening dresses featuring Japanese calligraphy on black and white chiffon"

January 27, 1989 - https://www.nytimes.com/1989/01/27/style/paris-coiffures-recall-the-30-s.html - The New York Times - "Paris Coiffures Recall the 30's" - Bernadine Morris

• 1989 Spring/summer couture collection - hairdos/coiffures - "Hanae Mori's mannequins had their hair turned up in a fat roll at the back of the head, with fresh white orchids tucked just above it."

May 25, 1989 - https://www.nytimes.com/1989/05/25/garden/currents-lacquer-that-s-chic-and-hardy.html - The New York Times - "Currents: Lacquer That's Chic And Hardy" - Carol Vogel

• New Chiki-Chic lacquerware line introduced at Manhattan boutique (27 East 79th Street)

July 2, 1989 - https://www.nytimes.com/1989/07/02/style/fashion-200-ways-to-look-at-35-years.html - The New York Times - "Fashion: 200 Ways To Look At 35 Years" - Elaine Louie

• Celebrating 35 years as a designer - opening retrospective exhibition at the Hanae Mori Building from July 4-16, 1989 - 200 outfits grouped by function/colour

July 25, 1989 - http://pgnewspapers.pgpl.ca/fedora/repository/pgc:1989-07-25-23 - Prince George Citizen - July 25, 1989 - Page 23 - "Lace, fur designer's preview"

• "Next winter" collection - brief description; mention of "35 years in the fashion business" and a "new shop in Paris"

July 25, 1989 - https://www.nytimes.com/1989/07/25/style/in-paris-all-eyes-on-dior-and-lacroix.html - The New York Times - "In Paris, All Eyes on Dior and Lacroix" - Bernadine Morris

• 1989 Fall/winter collection - "Dresses in satin or chiffon printed with flowers and with silver or gold leaf appliques had an exotic look" - "designs were taken from screens of the Muromachi period"

October 24, 1989 -https://www.nytimes.com/1989/10/24/style/the-chanel-jacket-an-icon-adorned.html - The New York Times - "The Chanel Jacket: An Icon Adorned" - Bernadine Morris

• 1990 Spring/summer collection - "Broad beige and white or red and white cotton stripes made snappy shorts or culotte sets"; chiffon jackets "embroidered with jewels in abstract patterns suggesting paintings by Miro or Mondrian"

October 25, 1989 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-10-25-vw-584-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "Fashion : Transparent Statements"

• Mori "presented with the Legion of Honor during this press week"
• 1990 Spring/summer collection - "young-looking collection" - "Short skirts, wide shorts and long flared skirts in striped chiffon" for day wear, "navy linen suits", "iridescent evening wear"

December 8, 1989 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-12-08-vw-130-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "Fashion: 6 Designers Show Spring Collections At Tokyo 'Summit '90'" - Mary Rourke

• Fashion Summit '90 - six designers meet in Tokyo to present Spring collections - hosted by Mori (Mori has hosted international fashion events in Tokyo the last 10 years)
• Started on Monday (December 4), lasts for 6 days; Akira Mori coordinated with John Fairchild to host the event (Fairchild and Mori co-publish WWD Japan the past 10 years)

February 28, 1990 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1990/02/28/japans-madame-couturier/99b6f381-acbf-4448-87d6-6f8646a48316/ - The Washington Post - Japan's Madame Couturier - Elisabeth Bumiller

• Life and career

March 17, 1990 - https://www.nytimes.com/1990/03/17/style/even-more-paris-is-the-place-to-show.html - The New York Times - "Even More, Paris Is the Place to Show" - Bernadine Morris

• 1990 Fall/winter collection - "honored by the French with a retrospective of her fashions at the Pavillon des Arts of the Museum of the City of Paris."
• "Her exquisitely beaded and printed dresses demonstrate a unique blend of Japanese and Western themes."

March 19, 1990 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1990-03-19-vw-514-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "A Global Outlook : Fashion: Japanese designers make a splash in Paris. But it's the French who impress with an Eastern Europe influence." - Mary Rourke

• 1990 Fall ready-to-wear collection - "hosted an exhibit of 35 years of her work, held Thursday evening, in the Pavillon des Arts, near the Contemporary Art Museum, Centre Pompidou."

March 21, 1990 - https://www.nytimes.com/1990/03/21/style/youth-and-dreams-enliven-paris-styles.html - The New York TImes - "Youth and Dreams Enliven Paris Styles" - Bernadine Morris

• 1990 Fall/winter collection - "Hanae Mori was one designer who lightened her touch. In her hands, leather looked sophisticated, long torso dresses with flaring skirts were snappy, and butterflies wafting across the bodices made chiffon dresses look lively. With a retrospective exhibition celebrating her 35 years in fashion on display at the Pavillon des Arts, Mrs. Mori shows that she has a capacity for renewal, which is a key to fashion."

July 24, 1990 - https://www.nytimes.com/1990/07/24/style/paris-heat-versace-and-lacroix-open-the-fall-shows.html - The New York Times - "Paris Heat: Versace and Lacroix Open the Fall Shows" - Bernadine Morris

• (1990 Fall/winter collection) - "Hanae Mori showed soft-peplum suits, gently draped dresses and bouffant ball gowns anyone could understand. Her beaded dresses, usually based on Japanese art themes, now take their cue from the swirling skies and wavy brush strokes of van Gogh."

July 29, 1990 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1990/07/29/fashion/88f96366-09d4-424a-91ec-9c668f7b19fb/ - The Washington Post - "Fashion" - Julie Bresnick

• 1990 Fall couture collection - van Gogh inspiration - "one amazing blue-beaded gown is printed with characters taken from a van Gogh painting" - took two months to get the beadwork right

November 13, 1990 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/253860293?accountid=196403 - The Windsor Star; Windsor, Ont. [Windsor, Ont]13 Nov 1990: C2. - "Japanese designer charms westerners"

• Career; early life
• "Her business empire, with an annual turnover equivalent to more than $450 million Cdn, encompasses fashion, accessories, household furnishings and publishing, with major outlets in Paris, New York and Tokyo."

January 30, 1991 - https://www.nytimes.com/1991/01/30/garden/review-fashion-sea-changes-for-couture.html - The New York Times - "Review/Fashion; Sea Changes For Couture" - Bernadine Morris

• 1991 Spring/summer couture collection - butterflies "printed on the shoulder of loose chiffon dresses with bold black markings on the skirt"; "minimalist look is part of a series of modern-art prints that include vibrant abstract designs inspired by Matisse"
• other traditional styles like "white lace ingenue dresses", "dressmaker suits with full skirts", "toga-draped style"

March 20, 1991 - https://www.nytimes.com/1991/03/20/style/review-fashion-it-s-called-joie-but-in-paris-it-s-pronounced-ungaro.html - The New York Times - "Review/Fashion; It's Called Joie, But in Paris It's Pronounced Ungaro" - Bernadine Morris

• 1991 Fall/winter ready-to-wear collection - "exquisitely beaded medallions at the back of sequined bolero jackets",

March 22, 1991 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1991-03-22-vw-585-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "Color Commentary : Oscar de la Renta, Emanuel Ungaro Speak in Deep Tones of Pink, Purple, Green" - Mary Rourke

• (1991 Fall/winter collection) - "entire outfits of quilted ivory wool jersey--narrow, belted suits, short full coats, hosiery and matching shoes"

July 23, 1991 - https://www.nytimes.com/1991/07/23/news/review-fashion-versace-provides-the-razzle-and-lacroix-the-dazzle-in-paris.html - The New York TImes - "Review/Fashion; Versace Provides the Razzle And Lacroix the Dazzle in Paris" - Bernadine Morris

• 1991 Fall/winter couture collection - nightwear mid-calf dresses; daytime - "short, softly draped jersey dresses and gentle suits"

July 23, 1991 - https://www.nytimes.com/1991/07/23/style/IHT-dior-pleases-the-clients-but-is-short-on-imagination-couture-shows.html - The New York Times - "Dior Pleases the Clients, but Is Short on Imagination: Couture Shows Back to Earth" - Suzy Menkes

• 1991 Fall/winter collection - "dropped hemlines to demi-long for [nightwear], making her famous butterfly motif in grainy beads on slim-line mid-calf dresses. This proportion will always look dowdy to most women. For day, Mori's line was short, focusing on three-quarter tunics and coats. Dresses were cut and draped asymmetrically, with sculpted evening looks that brought in a bauble-shaped short skirt and a one-sleeve evening dress bubbling in turquoise satin down one arm."

October 23, 1991 - https://www.nytimes.com/1991/10/23/garden/review-fashion-flirty-looks-for-spring-by-ungaro.html - The New York Times - "Review/Fashion: Flirty Looks For Spring By Ungaro" - Bernadine Morris

• 1992 Spring/summer collection - "cotton separates" with "abstract brush strokes suggesting faces" (inspired by illustrator Tony Viramontes)
• knitted styles; calligraphy patterns in black and white

January 31, 1992 -https://www.nytimes.com/1992/01/31/style/review-fashion-givenchy-walks-traditional-path.html - The New York Times - "Review/Fashion: Givenchy Walks Traditional Path" - Bernadine Morris

• 1992 Spring/summer collection - "Hanae Mori, whose conservative clothes are favored around the world by women in the diplomatic corps, brings a little zest to the traditional spring suit. A slash of white across the shoulders brightens a navy blue suit with an irregular jacket hemline; triangular navy inserts at the sides are slimming on a white suit."

July 22, 1992 - https://www.nytimes.com/1993/07/22/garden/review-fashion-in-couture-strong-views-boldly-stated.html - The New York Times - "Review/Fashion; In Couture, Strong Views, Boldly Stated" - Bernadine Morris

• 1992 Fall collection - Japanese-themed prints "distinguished additions to the season's evening dress offerings"; "Asymmetrically draped hoods and gently ruffled lapels add a soft air to her tailored coats and jackets."

July 30, 1992 - https://www.nytimes.com/1992/07/30/garden/review-fashion-saint-laurent-overcomes-the-anguish.html - "Review/Fashion: Saint Laurent Overcomes The Anguish" - Bernadine Morris

• 1992 Fall/winter collection - introduced her first fur designs for Saga Furs of Scandinavia along with her couture collection on Tuesday evening
• "most original fur was a short patchwork coat in sheared mink"; butterfly symbol on "elegant, timeless evening dresses"

August 9, 1992 - https://www.nytimes.com/1992/08/09/style/out-there-tokyo-japan-vs-lithuania.html - The New York Times - "Out There: Tokyo: Japan Vs. Lithuania" - James Sterngold

• Deep dive into Hanae Mori's uniform design for the Japanese Olympic team
• Received unpaid commission after Paris shows in March; "With her design, Ms. Mori spoke up for the Japan of consistency, good manners and devotion to tradition"; inspiration in the hinomaru; sketched designs in a week

August 27, 1992 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1992/08/27/japan-literary-trade-deficit/b103fe6b-5e57-40fe-81c5-0d59c33d5281/ - The Washington Post - " Japan' Literary Trade Deficit" - T.R. Reid

• Mori is one of the founders of Association for 100 Japanese Books, which works to maintain Japanese literary works as a cultural export

September 10, 1992 - https://www.baltimoresun.com/news/bs-xpm-1992-09-10-1992254040-story.html - The Baltimore Sun - "New elementary principle: Children dress for success" - John E. Woodruff

• Fashion designers design school uniforms - Minami High School "[...] reached straight for the top, with clothing by Hanae Mori, Japan's most famous designer."

October 20, 1992 - https://www.nytimes.com/1992/10/20/style/IHT-raw-energy-from-out-of-africa-inspires-lacroix-chanel-flies-on.html - The New York Times - "Raw Energy From Out of Africa Inspires Lacroix: Chanel Flies on Autopilot As Spines Stiffen at Dior" - Suzy Menkes

• (Spring 1993 collection) - Africa-inspired - "jungle prints, raincoats were patterned with snakeskin, animal paws marked knitwear and zebra skin was printed on chiffon"

October 29, 1992 - https://www.baltimoresun.com/news/bs-xpm-1992-10-29-1992303071-story.html - The Baltimore Sun - "Paris flirts with the past Designers romp through fashion history with some teasing twists" - Marylou Luther

• Spring 1993 collection - "black bra with black and white striped pajamas and matching top"

January 28, 1993 - https://www.nytimes.com/1993/01/28/style/review-fashion-for-saint-laurent-the-crown-still-fits.html - The New York Times - "Review/Fashion; For Saint Laurent, The Crown Still Fits" - Bernadine Morris

• 1993 Spring/summer collection - evening styles - "white silk, satin, crepe or chiffon, printed with black and brown bamboo forests" - "prints were adapted from engravings of the Muromachi period"

February 16, 1993 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/317011142?accountid=196403 - Menkes, Suzy. International Herald Tribune; Paris [Paris]16 Feb 1993: 8. - "Cashmere: Making Luxury Accessible" - Suzy Menkes

• Mori opens a cashmere shop in Paris last year (1992) at the Alma bridge end of Avenue Montaigne - "contains weekend and casual wear and includes special effects such as cashmere mixed with silk or cotton for the summer season"
• popular due to relatively inexpensive prices - 100% cashmere sweater cost 2,800 francs (about $500 according to article); "heavy-knit ribbed sweater" for 5,000 francs; "cashmere and silk polo knit" at 2,200 francs
• cashmere store was created as a joint venture with China in 1985

May 31, 1993 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/218949465?accountid=196403 - Cook, Chris. Japan Times, Weekly international edition31 May 1993: 10. - "Madame Butterfly" - Chris Cook

• Career - in-depth
• 1993 Summer collection - day wear - "Greek-style togas", "princess-line dresses flare out from under the bust"; bias-cut jackets
• night wear - bustier and decolette dresses
• "One of a handful of non-French designers showing at the twice-yearly Paris haute couture collections, Mori has combined the Orient and the Occident, earning the respect and acclaim as one of this century's legends of fashion."
• Early client - Prince Ranier of Monaco - saw Mori's designs at a Neiman Marcus department store, ordered a dress for wife Grace Kelly
• Princess Grace Kelly later "invited Mori to show her collection in Monte Carlo during celebrations marking the dedication of Hotel Loews in 1975"
• 1983 - help to found the Fashion Foundation to provide fashion and international exchange between Japanese designers and the rest of the world
• 1989 - French government awarded Mori the Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur

June 9, 1993 - Menkes, Suzy. International Herald Tribune; Paris [Paris]09 June 1993: 2. - "For Bride, A Pioneer Dressmaker" - Suzy Menkes

• Mori created bridal gown (robe decolletee) for Crown Princess Masako for public parade after private ceremony on Wednesday (June 9)
• 12-layer kimono (juni hitoe), full-skirted, made from ivory silk woven in Kyoto, "two colors of gold thread and with a pattern of scudding clouds originally chosen by Empress Michiko for her own wedding in 1959"
• Worked over 3 months to make the wedding dress plus three other outfits ("plain grey crepe dress" for royal couple's visit to traditional shrine, "pink-and-silver net dress" for an official banquet next week, "apricot silk daytime outfit"), took six members to make
• "met her husband, Ken, when she was a student and he was an army lieutenant"
• "They have two sons and seven grandchildren - two in Paris, where Kei, the younger son, works for the Hanae Mori company and five in Tokyo, where the elder son, Akira, works in the business."

June 10, 1993 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1993-06-10-mn-1615-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "Crown Princess Begins New Life Amid a Shower of Congratulations : Japan: Fireworks, a parade and media celebrities combine with a break in the weather to welcome the newlyweds." - Teresa Watanabe

• Crown Princess Masako wedding - "formal ivory gown threaded with gold, created by top designer Hanae Mori."

June 20, 1993 - https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1993-06-20-9306200357-story.html - Chicago Tribune - "College Grads Are In Driver's Seat In Japan"

• MK Taxi - uniforms designed by Hanae Mori

January 20, 1994 - https://www.nytimes.com/1994/01/20/garden/review-fashion-classically-couture.html - The New York Times - "Review/Fashion; Classically Couture" - Bernadine Morris

• (Spring 1994 collection) - "gently fitted suits", "fluid evening dresses"; "slender evening dresses printed with clouds, reeds and flowing ribbons of color"
• silver stars projected on the walls and ceilings" of the Louvre

January 25, 1994 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/243211794?accountid=196403 - The Vancouver Sun; Vancouver, B.C. [Vancouver, B.C]25 Jan 1994: C1. - "FASHION FOR '94 OUT OF THIS WORLD: The exotic, beaded, diaphanous creations on display at the Paris spring/summer previews fulfill even the most luxurious high-fashion fantasies"

• Collection - "Stars and Comets" - "Star-shaped panels and galaxy prints gave her pieces a touch of fun and fantasy"
• "In an homage to film-maker Kenji Mizoguchi, Mori showed rich silk kimonos in subtle gold and silver tones printed with landscapes of rivers, lillies and reeds."

September 7, 1994 -https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/what-price-designer-label-doomsday-conference-diary-1447224.html - The Independent - "What price designer-label doomsday?: Conference Diary" - Robert Fisk

• Mori designed official headscarf for the 1994 United Nations (UN) population conference

July 13, 1995 - https://www.nytimes.com/1995/07/13/style/IHT-saint-laurents-ole-to-couture-simply-sumptuous.html - The New York Times - "Saint Laurent's Olé to Couture: Simply Sumptuous" - Suzy Menkes

• Fall 1995 collection - "decorative effects" - "applications of plastic, paint-splash patterns and a bold dalmatian print"
• Mori "is joining their perfumed ranks. A ballet dancer previewed her first fragrance at her show Tuesday"

September 19, 1995 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/316877197?accountid=196403 - Menkes, Suzy. International Herald Tribune; Paris [Paris]19 Sep 1995: 10. - "Sniffing Out a New Generation" - Suzy Menkes

• "[Perfumer Claude] Saujet has worked with Japanese couturier Hanae Mori, who launches this fall a fragrance designed to express her spirit as an independent woman in Japan."

September 23, 1995 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/390292435?accountid=196403 - White, Renee Minus. New York Amsterdam News; New York, N.Y. [New York, N.Y]23 Sep 1995: 21. - "Color, sosphistication mark fall fashion power" - Renee Minus White

• Fall/winter 1995-1996 collection - "her basic concept is defined with high quality fabrics, refined yet simple styles and matching separates"
• Day wear - "sporty and comfortable"; evening wear - "sophisticated"
• "cashmere with lots of details"; "separates are smartly styled in 100% plain or ribbed cashmere"; "Mori's St. Moritz looks are more sophisticated. Mohair and silk knits are printed with an exclusive spotty pattern"; "Soft pants with elastic waists and knotted belts are matched with long pull-overs, hooded jackets and a stole"

October 17, 1995 - https://www.nytimes.com/1995/10/17/style/IHT-gallianos-invitation-to-the-dance-whos-the-next-magician.html - The New York Times - "Galliano's Invitation to the Dance: Who's the Next Magician?" - Suzy Menkes

• 1995 Spring/summer collection - "classy silk and cashmere knits, her crisp waffle cotton dresses and signature butterfly prints in the showroom"; sumo wrestlers

January 25, 1996 - https://www.nytimes.com/1996/01/25/style/IHT-revenge-is-sweet-for-yves-saint-laurent.html - The New York TImes - "Revenge Is Sweet for Yves Saint Laurent" - Suzy Menkes

• Collection - "delicate pen strokes scribbled on a long white dress", "floating kimono effects"

March 16, 1996 - https://www.nytimes.com/1996/03/16/news/liquid-assets-lure-big-investors.html - The New York Times - "'Liquid' Assets Lure Big Investors" - Nadine Frey

• Article on perfumes - Hanae Mori launched namesake perfume this year (1996)

September 3, 1996 - https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB841716052467859500 - The Wall Street Journal - "Europe's Stuffiest Festival Revivified" - Paul Levy

• Mention of Mori's costumes for a Japanese performance of Richard Strauss's opera Elektra

October 21, 1997 -https://www.nytimes.com/1997/10/21/style/IHT-the-gleam-of-a-silver-moment.html - The New York Times - "The Gleam of a Silver Moment" - Suzy Menkes

• Collection - asymmetry - "suits with off-center jackets"

February 3, 1998 -https://www.nytimes.com/1998/02/03/style/IHT-hints-of-the-exotic-from-those-faraway-places.html - The New York Times - "Hints of the Exotic From Those Far-Away Places" - Suzy Menkes

• "And Hanae Mori nurtured her Japanese roots with stylized flower prints."

March 17, 1998 - https://www.nytimes.com/1998/03/17/style/IHT-paris-enjoys-a-burst-of-creativity-after-a-surfeit-of-minimalism.html - The New York Times - "Paris Enjoys a Burst of Creativity : After a Surfeit of Minimalism" - Suzy Menkes

• 1998 Fall/winter collection - "Sportiness and ease were the message from Hanae Mori, whose casual Weekend line opened her show Monday with luxurious knits. Panne velvet for evening also gave the collection a soft touch."

May 18, 1998 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/218934455?accountid=196403 - Michelle Dalton Tyree. Japan Times, Weekly international edition18 May 1998: 16. - "Year of the butterfly for haute couture" - Michelle Dalton Tyree

• Career
• Hanae Mori celebrates 20 years of design
• 1973 - won Neiman Marcus award
• 1977 - First haute couture collection and show debuted in Paris; inducted into the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
• 1985 - Hanae Mori Boutique in Faubourg St. Honore, Paris was opened
• 1989 - won person of cultural merit in Japan

July 28, 1998 - https://www.nytimes.com/1998/07/28/style/IHT-from-hanae-moris-secret-garden.html - The New York Times - "From Hanae Mori's Secret Garden" - Suzy Menkes

• Couture collection - inspired by Claude Monet - "chiffon dresses with vibrant pink, yellow and turquoise patterns", "wine-red tunic with a Japanese print above an iridescent lilac skirt"

October 20, 1998 - https://www.nytimes.com/1998/10/20/style/IHT-silver-moment-with-rustic-touch.html - The New York Times - "Silver Moment With Rustic Touch" - Suzy Menkes

• 1999 Spring collection - "silver gray outfits", "metallic filament jewelry";

January 26, 1999 - https://www.nytimes.com/1999/01/26/style/IHT-when-little-things-mean-a-lot-the-drama-is-in-the-details.html - The New York Times - "When Little Things Mean a Lot : The Drama Is in the Details" - Suzy Menkes

• Spring/summer couture collection - building in detailed accessories - "translucent bracelets"; corsage of flowers with lace dress, with bow and flower at the back of the dress

May 11, 1999 - https://www.nytimes.com/1999/05/11/style/IHT-a-new-spirit-takes-wing-with-madame-butterfly.html - The New York Times - "A New Spirit Takes Wing With Madame Butterfly" - Suzy Menkes

• Pamela Mori (appointed to creative director in March 1999); re-establish family roles (see LA TImes May 14 article below);
• "The company's global turnover reached $400 million in 1998 [...] the joint cashmere venture in China since 1986 has an annual turnover of $15 million"

May 14, 1999 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1999-may-14-cl-36943-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "House of Mori, the Next Generation" - Valerie Reitman

• Family's roles in Hanae Mori business - Hanae Mori (responsible for couture line, higher-end off-the-rack clothes), Pamela Mori (daughter-in-law - creative director of ready-to-wear line), Akira Mori (son, husband of Pamela - company president), Kei Mori (runs Paris business); mention of cashmere plant in China (confirmed joint-venture)

July 22, 1999 - https://www.nytimes.com/1999/07/22/style/IHT-art-or-apparelparis-asks-the-couture-question.html - The New York Times - "Art or Apparel? Paris Asks the Couture Question" - Suzy Menkes

• "[...] Japanese actor Naohiko Umewaka, who will be costumed by Mori in a Noh production in Paris this autumn"

October 12, 1999 - https://www.nytimes.com/1999/10/12/style/IHT-bright-geometric-prints-and-romance-oust-drab-minimalism-sweet.html - The New York Times - "Bright Geometric Prints and Romance Oust Drab Minimalism : Sweet Revenge:Color Is Back" - Suzy Menkes

• 2000 Spring/summer collection - "Both in black pantsuits, Hanae Mori and her daughter-in-law Pamela took a joint bow. It was in recognition of a happy fashion partnership that enabled sporty denim with red top-stitching, zippered jackets and elongated cardigans to coexist with graceful chiffon dresses fluttering with butterfly prints."

January 20, 2000 - https://www.nytimes.com/2000/01/20/style/IHT-new-team-same-theme-at-ysl.html - The New York Times - "New Team, Same Theme at YSL" - Suzy Menkes

• "Tops with hairy textures, python skirts, patches of appliqué and fresh long-line proportions were mixed with more classic crepe jackets, draped at the neckline, and navy and white suits pinned with silver roses" - inspiration from enchanted garden

March 7, 2000 - https://www.nytimes.com/2000/03/07/style/IHT-play-school-designers-deliriumkeeping-up-with-the-day-job.html - The New York Times - "Play School : Designers' Delirium: Keeping Up With the Day Job" - Suzy Menkes

• (2000 Fall/winter collection) - Pamela Mori's collection - "Everything, from long-line coats to knitted dresses, seems designed for a tall, rangy American beauty like herself. Her attempts to whoop it up with scarlet coats over embroidered pony skin did not work. And the show seemed to be moving too far from a graceful, Madame Butterfly elegance."

May 12, 2000 - https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB958152405884931799 - The Wall Street Journal - "A Week of Diversions: Week of May 12 - 28"

• Mention of Art Tower Mito exhibit on Mori - "180 works on exhibit as well as photos and videos from her film costumes"

May 16, 2000 - https://www.nytimes.com/2000/05/16/style/IHT-summers-shimmering-designs-catch-the-spirit-of-art-nouveau.html - The New York Times - "Summer's Shimmering Designs Catch the Spirit of Art Nouveau : Fluttering Back:The Sensual Butterfly" - Suzy Menkes

• Description of Hanae Mori's symbol, the butterfly

July 18, 2000 - https://www.nytimes.com/2000/07/18/style/IHT-fashfile.html - The New York Times - "Fashfile" - Suzy Menkes

• "Hanae Mori has made a career out of combining an oriental and occidental aesthetic"
• "vivid kimono tunic"; "Madame Butterfly seemed to be in search of cool, playing with alligator and snakeskin, cutting suits with geometric patchworks and working a bold coat in shiny cellophane"

November 21, 2000 - Menkes, Suzy. International Herald Tribune; Paris [Paris]21 Nov 2000: 7. - "Passing the Flame in Japanese Style - Suzy Menkes

• Description of ready-to-wear collection - "signature butterfly prints", "sleek snake-skin tailoring"; daughter-in-law Pamela Mori unveils the Hanae Mori Studio line of relaxed sportswear for the younger generation
• Hanae Mori Studio collection - chrysanthemum prints printed on gingham

January 24, 2001 - https://www.nytimes.com/2001/01/24/style/IHT-class-and-classics-at-chanel.html - The New York Times - "lass and Classics at Chanee

• 2001 Spring/summer collection - weightlessness - "light suits fastened with rhinestone diaper pins", "skirts that floated in chiffon"; "subtle cut-outs" at the back

January 29, 2001 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/425230402?accountid=196403 - Patterson, Suzy. The Record; Bergen County, N.J. [Bergen County, N.J]29 Jan 2001: L07. - "Surprisingly Wearable Springtime's Haute Couture - Suzy Patterson

• (2001) Summer couture collection - "cellophane collar licking a suit", "patent leather in a black-and-white jacket-dress outfit" - "one of Madame Mori's best in recent years"
• day suits - "split skirt with a well-cut charcoal jacket", "cream crepe suit with sun-pleating on the pants", "raw silk power-pink trouser suit with a big obi-style bow in back"
• evening wear - "joker-style, diamond-woven tunic with beads over its light taupe gazar skirt", "butterfly-printed chiffon", "organza dresses with delicate jeweled decor" in black or red

July 11, 2001 - https://www.nytimes.com/2001/07/11/style/IHT-chanel-goes-to-head-of-the-class.html - The New York Times - "Chanel Goes to Head of the Class" - Suzy Menkes

• 2001 Fall/winter collection - "sent out a subtle homage to her native Japan in embroideries that looked like graphic woodcuts, in chrysanthemum prints, in the butterfly jet jewelry that alighted at shoulder and bosom on slim dresses, and in the vivid kimono evening coats that stole this East/West show."

July 17, 2001 - https://www.nytimes.com/2001/07/17/style/IHT-in-paris-a-craving-for-the-exotic.html - The New York Times - "In Paris, a Craving for the Exotic" - Suzy Menkes

• 2001 Fall/winter collection - "These dip-in-the-soup trumpet sleeves were at their most beautiful on Hanae Mori's evening coats, trimmed with fur."

January 9, 2002 - https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/mitsui-others-to-finance-mori-rtw-licensing-1171190/ - WWD - "Mitsui, Others to Finance Mori RTW and Licensing" - Tsukasa Furukawa

• Details about agreement between joint company between Mitsui & Co. and Rothschild to manage Hanae Mori's ready-to-wear and licensing arms of the business

January 29, 2002 - https://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/29/style/IHT-paris-fashion-lacroixs-playful-freshness.html - The New York Times - "Paris Fashion : Lacroix's Playful Freshness" - Suzy Menkes

• 2002 Spring/summer collection - "HANAE MORI sent out an elegant collection where a stick-of-coral pin fastened tailoring and where a pin-tucked suit or lattice work bodice were technically perfect."

May 31, 2002 - https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/mori-rtw-files-for-reorganization-762509/ - WWD - "Mori RTW Files for Reorganization"

• Mori's ready-to-wear and licensing business files for Civil Reorganization in the Tokyo District Court - debt of $80 million; couture business not affected by this decision
• Mitsui & Co. and N.M. Rothschild & Sons Ltd. invested between $31-38 million to acquire the ready-to-wear and licensing business
• Mori's worldwide business was $154 million in 2001

January 24, 2003 - https://www.nytimes.com/2003/01/24/style/IHT-the-collections-paris-master-class-from-alaia.html - The New York Times - "The Collections / Paris : Master Class From Alaia" - Suzy Menkes

• 2003 Spring/summer collection - "sleek draped suits" , "womanly chiffon dresses", "evening gowns with designs inspired by Japanese artist Hokusai"
• "In spite of the company's financial difficulties, which led to its sale last year [...]"

July 10, 2003 - https://www.nytimes.com/2003/07/10/style/IHT-the-collections-paris-muted-ungaro-dont-rock-n-roll.html - The New York Times - "The Collections / PARIS : Muted Ungaro don't rock 'n' roll"

• 2003 Fall/winter collection - "butterfly wing images were worked into the back of a black tuxedo or onto a cashmere kimono coat worn over a knitted dress";

July 15, 2003 - https://www.nytimes.com/2003/07/15/style/IHT-frills-ruffles-and-flamenco-tiers.html - The New York Times - "Frills, ruffles and flamenco tiers"

• Frills - "The masculine/feminine idea came, too, at Hanae Mori, where ribbon ruffles, as in rosettes, were crunched into pretty embellishment on suit lapels."

January 7, 2004 - https://www.nytimes.com/2004/01/27/style/IHT-reality-dreams-and-a-big-night-out.html - The New York Times - "Reality, dreams and a big night out" - Suzy Menkes

• "The rest of the season was about reality and dreams. At Hanae Mori there were smart outfits for the cocktail hour [...]"

June 23, 2004 - https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/hanae-mori-to-exit-couture-712877/ - "Hanae Mori to Exit Couture"

• Career recap - Mori announces decision to leave haute couture

July 6, 2004 - https://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/06/news/goodbye-butterfly.html - The New York Times - "Goodbye, butterfly" - Suzy Menkes

• Career recap - visit with Dior, 1961 visit to Madame Butterfly (disgust at bad costumes), first Hanae Mori show in Europe in 1975 ("East Meets West")

July 9, 2004 - https://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/09/style/IHT-fashion-gaultiers-wild-gallop-to-the-end.html - The New York Times - "Fashion : Gaultier's wild gallop to the end" - Suzy Menkes

• Mori's final Paris show

July 9, 2004 - https://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/09/style/fashion-hanae-moria-butterfly-goodbye.html - The New York Times - "Fashion : Hanae Mori:A butterfly goodbye" - Suzy Menkes

• Hanae Mori's final Paris show

July 9, 2004 - https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2004-jul-09-et-moore9-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "Elegance endures"

• Mori's final show

August 25, 2006 - https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/hanae-mori-readies-women-s-launch-526395/ - WWD - "Hanae Mori Readies Women’s Launch" - Michelle Edgar

• Launch "Magical Moon" fragrance in September 2006 - first women's fragrance since "Hanae Mori Butterfly"

September 28, 2006 - https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/paris-scene-522040/ - Paris Scene - WWD

• "[...] an exhibition, opening Oct. 6 at the Maison l’Amérique Latine on the Boulevard Saint Germain, is celebrating her long career. Dubbed “Encounter Between the Orient and the Occident,” the show boasts 60 of the Japanese couturiere’s designs as well as dance and theater costumes she created over the years."

October 6, 2006 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/2225370898?accountid=196403 - New York Times (Online), New York: New York Times Company. Oct 6, 2006. - "Madame Butterfly: Hanae Moris' Robot - Style"

• Description of Hanae Mori retrospective at the Maison l'Amerique Latine until October 27, 2006
• Showcase: a robotic mannequin created by Tatsuya Matsui wearing a butterfly-wing dress

November 12, 2006 - https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-2006-11-12-0611120395-story.html - Chicago Tribune - "Celebrity keepsakes benefit a worthy cause" - Kelly Haramis

• "A new perfume is reaching for the sky ... and more. Hanae Mori's Magical Moon will donate up to 5 percent of the proceeds to standup.org, a public education charity that buys textbooks for high school students."

August 19, 2008 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/464425138?accountid=196403 - Nakamura, Akemi. McClatchy - Tribune Business News; Washington [Washington]19 Aug 2008. - "Are '70s landmarks savable?: Hanae Mori Building still sound, don't raze it: tenants" - Akemi Nakamura

• Hanae Mori building from 1977 facing demolition from the owner, Obayashi Real Estate Corp.
• The building looks like a butterfly from above

November 28, 2008 - https://www.latimes.com/socal/daily-pilot/news/tn-dpt-xpm-2008-11-28-cpt-schoolbrfs112808-story.html - Los Angeles Times - "Briefly In Education"

• 16 students from Laguna College of Art & Design compete for national product packaging of Hanae Mori Parfums

April 24, 2011 - https://latimesblogs.latimes.com/alltherage/2011/04/weekend-shopping-dna-vintage-pop-up-prom-cast-appearance-civilianaire-denim-opens.html - Los Angeles Times - "Weekend Shopping: DNA Vintage pop-up; 'Prom' cast appearance; Civilianaire denim opens"

• Celebrate launch of limited-edition Hanae Mori Parfums No. 3 - CEO Emmanuel Saujet will appear in Sherman Oaks Bloomingdales on Friday (April 29?)

August 24, 2012 - https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/fragrance/hanae-mori-to-launch-mens-eau-6192107/ - WWD - "Hanae Mori to Launch Men’s Eau" - Belisa Silva

• Release of men's fragrance, "HiM", in Fall 2012

November 6, 2012 - https://www.washingtonpost.com/entertainment/theater_dance/rudolf-nureyevs-art-and-style-are-gorgeously-revived-in-calif-museum-exhibit/2012/11/06/e8d215c0-2790-11e2-9972-71bf64ea091c_story.html - The Washington Post - "Rudolf Nureyev’s art and style are gorgeously revived in Calif. museum exhibit" - Sarah Kaufman

• Description of Mori's costume for the fairy godmother in Rudolf Nureyev's production of Cinderella - "Hanae Mori created a full-cut herringbone wool coat, modeled on an Yves Saint Laurent topper Nureyev had snagged at a Paris flea market."

January 18, 2013 - https://www.miamiherald.com/miami-com/en-espanol/article225840700.html - The Miami Herald - "De compras: Noticias para la materialista" ["Shopping: News for the materialist"]

• [translated from Spanish] "Hanae Mori No. 6 is unforgettable. The Japanese designer's perfumes are exquisite. Her latest fragrance has an exotic blend with aromas of mandarin tree from Morocco, neroli from southern France, bergamot from Calabria, Egyptian jasmine, orange blossom from Tunisia, green roses, American peony, heliotrope, purple blossom from the Andes mountains, Tahitian vanilla, Indian sandalwood, musk and benzoin"

August 3, 2013 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/1417165813?accountid=196403 - Markoutsas, Elaine. Orlando Sentinel; Orlando, Fla. [Orlando, Fla]03 Aug 2013: D.1. - "Flight patterns: Fashion and home accessories are borrowing color and inspiration from butterflies this season" - Elaine Markoutsas

• Mori designs dinnerware collection for Haviland - arabesque pattern with a single gold butterfly on black

December 12, 2013 - https://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/12/arts/dance/at-a-french-museum-peeks-at-nureyevs-world.html - The New York Times - "At a French Museum, Peeks at Nureyev’s World" - Roslyn Sulcas

• Description of Mori's costume for Sylvie Guillem in Rudolf Nureyev's production of Cinderella - 1920's style - "an enchantment of pale-pink pleated silk, feathers and sequins"

August 1, 2014 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/1552009482?accountid=196403 - CYK, JAYME. WWD: Women's Wear Daily; Los Angeles Vol. 208, Iss. 23,  (Aug 1, 2014): 8. - "ICP Plots Future Growth" - Jayme Cyk

• International Cosmetics & Perfumes will launch a new fragrance for Hanae Mori (hadn't released a Hanae Mori perfume since 2006's Magical Moon)
• New fragrance, called Hanae - "Top notes are of Sicilian bergamot, blackcurrant, red apple and orange blossom; its heart is of wild strawberry, jasmine, tea rose, toffee and patchouli, and the drydown features white cedarwood, siam benjoin, sandalwood and vanilla."
• "industry sources estimated that Hanae Mori Hanae could generate first-year sales of $6 million to $7 million at retail in the U.S. and Canada."

January 6, 2015 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/1641974180?accountid=196403 - The Japan News; Tokyo [Tokyo]06 Jan 2015. - "70 years after WWII: My thoughts: Mori: Clothing reflects the changing status of women"

• Early life and in-depth career
• "I began attending one of these schools so I could make clothes for myself and my children. [...] My classmates were women who had lost their husbands in the war and were learning a trade to support themselves, and others who were "training" to become wives."
• On Hiyoshiya - "The store was on the second floor of a building and hard to spot, so I installed windows in the wall facing the street and placed U.S.-made mannequins there. For material, I bought goods released from the Occupation forces in places like Ameyayokocho in Tokyo. As soon as I placed a piece of pink or yellow clothing on a mannequin, someone would swoop in and buy it. I ran out of things to dress the mannequins in, so I wrapped them in the paper I used for wrapping the items on sale at my store."
• Designed mini-skirt for Prime Minister Eisaku Sato's wife, Hiroko when the PM visited the USA in 1969 to negotiate the return of Okinawa - followed the mini-skirt trend from the mid-1960s - received mixed opinions
• "I felt that the miniskirt fad was a symbol of how women were moving from a passive role to one in which they actively expressed their views."
• "I have spent many years feeling women's energy and transformation through clothing. What I have kept in mind was to make clothes that would not overly emphasize femininity but rather show the presence of women."
• 1965 presentation at Hotel Delmonico - "I sent invitations made from Japanese paper from Japan using stamps commemorating the Tokyo Olympics."
• Techniques - "I used handwoven Nishijin-ori fabric, indigo dye and other techniques to make clothes that expressed a traditional Japanese beauty."

November 30, 2015 - https://search-proquest-com.wikipedialibrary.idm.oclc.org/docview/1737193559?accountid=196403 - The Japan News; Tokyo [Tokyo]30 Nov 2015. - "Fashion in the past 70 years: From Western imitations to original flair"

• Career - early career
• "Living through the war, during which I had to suppress my desires, drove me to create beautiful things. At the clothing store I opened in Tokyo's Shinjuku area in 1951, I used the cloth given out by the Allied Occupation forces to make clothing with bright colors. They sold instantly after being put on the mannequin. I think everyone wanted them because we did not have any bright colors during the war."
• "I also made costumes for actresses in movies, such as "Taiyo no Kisetsu" (Season of the Sun) and "Kurutta Kajitsu" (Juvenile Jungle). Yujiro Ishihara was a superstar, and the "taiyo-zoku" liberated youth became extremely popular. I learned a lot through working with first-rate directors and quickly making costumes that made the actresses shine."
• "I made an effort to use traditional Japanese materials such as obi cloth and tammono, a single roll of fabric, whenever possible to showcase how comfortable Japanese cloth was and how skilled Japanese craftsmen were. I was always aware of being Japanese, and strove to make clothing that would help the wearer and fit with their uniqueness."

December 12, 2017 - https://www.wwdjapan.com/articles/516867 - WWD Japan - "森英恵 × 中里唯馬のスペシャル対談　オートクチュールの未来　服作りの未来" ["A Special Dialogue between Hanae Mori and Taduma Nakazato: The Future of Haute Couture and the Future of Clothing Manufacturing"] - 紀本 知恵子 [Chieko Kimoto]

• Interview between Mori, Taduma Nakazato, and WWD Japan

December 16, 2017 - https://wwd.com/business-news/media/wwd-japan-2000th-issue-11076947/ - WWD - "WWD Japan Marks 2,000th Issue"

• WWD Japan celebrates 2000th issue in November 2017 - history behind publication (joint collaboration between Fairchild Publishing and Hanae Mori)
• "The publication was launched in 1979 as a biweekly newspaper and transformed into a weekly paper five years later"; "INFAS is now headed by Hanae Mori’s grandson Ken, who oversees WWD Japan"

January 1, 2019 - https://www.yomiuri.co.jp/life/20220816-OYT8T50105/ - Masako's Robe Decolletage, Olympic Uniforms... Hanae Mori Talks Heisei

• Mori talks about her designs:
  • She worked on Masako's robe decollete for the wedding of the Crown Prince in June 1993
    • The fabric used was meiki zuicho nishiki, a historic weaving pattern also used for the robe decollete of Empress Michiko; the jacket collar is decorated with large petals
    • Masako was not used to wearning a robe decollete
  • She worked on the uniform for the Japanese Olympic team for the 1992 Barcelona Olympics

Unknown date - https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/article-1121306/ - WWD - "Mori Nets Art School Butterflies" - P.B.

• "Mori and her fragrance licensee, Cosmetique et Parfum International, have hired art students at Les Beaux Arts of Paris to decorate boxes of the Mori signature fragrance."

Unknown date - https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/article-1118968/ - WWD - "Mori Names Grand Managing Director"

• "Max-Michel Grand has been named managing director of Hanae Mori Haute Couture SA, responsible for developing the couture business, according to the company. It is a new post."

Unknown date (c. 2006) - https://web.archive.org/web/20070524112003/http://www.time.com/time/asia/2006/heroes/bl_jap_designers.html - TIME - "Hanae Mori, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake & Rei Kawakubo" - Akira Miura

• Basic description of Mori and her importance to the fashion industry