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St Mary's Kirk, North Aspect

The Collegiate Chuch of St Mary the Virgin is the Parish Kirk of Haddington, East Lothian. Built in the early Gothic Perpendicular style, at 206 feet (62.8 metres) from East to West, it is the longest church in Scotland. The building is owned by the Church of Scotland.

Description

The cruciform church is located in a large open churchyard, at some distance from the town centre. The church is built on a scale becoming of a Cathedral. It is of a uniform and consistent design, that suggests a clear adherence to the original plans. Having been descrated during the sixteenth century, the nave of the church and the tower were repaired for use by the congregation, this part being subject to various restorations in subsequent centuries, a comprehensive renovation of the whole church, was carried out in the 1970s. (see below)

Choir

The choir is aisled and is made up of four bays, intersected by buttresses with a mixture of gabled and pinnacled terminals. The windows between have simple curvilinear tracery dividing two main lights. The cornice below the Eaves has foliate carving. The Clerestory is unbuttressed and has double-lighted windows beneath two mouchettes. The Window at the east end of the Choir, was built in 1877, and consists of four lights with contemporary tracery. One of the finials shows an angel playing the Bagpipe. on the north side of the choir there is a Medieval sacristy, which is now an ecumenical chapel and mausoleum of the Maitland family, of which more below.

Tower and Transepts

The Transepts are aisleless, with windows at the gables and to the west, the gable windows are triple lighted with mouchettes above. There is a star turret in the west angle of the south transept which gives access to the Tower. The Tower is cubic in form and has triple lancet windows on each elevation. There are single figure niches on either side of the openings. The wall heads terminate in a decorative cornice with gargoyles. The corbelling at this level suggests that there were plans to erect a crown spire similar to that of St. Giles Cathedral in Edinburgh, and St. Michael's Parish Church, Linlithgow. It is not known whether or not this decorative structure was ever built.

Nave

The nave is similar to the choir, in that it has four bays on the north and south aspects, buttressed in between. The windows , however, are similar to those on the Transept gables. The side aisles were raised by some 10 feet in 1811 and were finished with castellation and pinnacles. The clerestory windows are similar to those of the aisles and the wall heads finished with cornicing.

The western front of the building has a large window divided into six main lights in groups of three divided by a 'Y' shaped central Mullion. These are each surmounted by double mouchettes and vesica windows. The capital is formed of double "dagger" and single quatrefoil windows. Below is the main door, with round headed arch comprised of several filleted shafts, the door is divided into two by a trumeau  shaft topped with two semi-circular arches, the capital here bears a representation of the Arma Christi.

Interior

The interior of the church is notable for the extensive sexipartite vaulting. The pulpit and font were both designed by glaswegian sculptor, Birnie Rhind in 1891. In the north choir aisle there is an ancient sculpture of Haddington Burgh arms, discovered in the north transept, during the 1970s restoration. The east wall of the south transept houses a memorial to William Seton, Provost of Haddington, erected in 1682. In the late 1980s a new pipe organ was commissioned, and installed in 1990 on a gallery within the north transept. The tower of St Mary's had been silent since 1548, when the English army removed the three bells extant. In 1999 the church acquired a set of eight bells, cast to celebrate the coronation of George V in 1911. These were installed between March and May of 1999 and were dedicated by The Very Rev Dr John B. Cairns, the Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, on the 6th of June.

History

Background

Christianity in Haddington

Haddington was the fourth largest town in Scotland in the High Middle Ages, and the first chartered Royal Burgh. There is record of the church in Haddington in a charter of David I of Scotland dated 1139, giving the monks of St Andrews Cathedral Priory the benfits of its revenues. The king granted "unam mansuram" in Haddington, as well as to the monks of Haddington a full toft "in burgo meo de Hadintun, free of all custom and service." This Parish church was probably built upon the site of the choir of the present edifice.

In the late 12th century the great Abbey of Haddington, was founded, by Ada de Warenne, Countess of Northumbria and Huntingdon, for a community of Cistercian Nuns. In addition to the Cistercians and the Franciscans, there was a representative house of the Dominican Order, a Hospitium and a Lazar house. This was represented by a hamlet within the parish of Haddington, now part of a housing estate on the outskirts of the town, called St Lawrence, a corruption of St. Lazarus.

Burnt Candlemas

In recognition of Haddington's strategic importance in the Lothians, it was burnt twice in the 13th century by the English, once by the forces of John of England in 1216, and in 1246 by John's son Henry III of England. In early 1356, Edward III of England, following in his great-grandfather's footsteps, invaded Scotland, in an episode that would become known as the Burnt Candlemas. Edward had come north to recapture Berwick upon Tweed, taken by the Scots in 1355, this having been accomplished he overwintered at Roxburgh. There, Edward Baliol, the pretender to the Scots throne, had resigned his interest in the Scots throne to Edward. By February 2nd 1356, Edward had crossed the Lammermuir Hills, and in revenge for Berwick, spent ten days at Haddington, where he sacked the town, and destroyed most of the buildings there, including the Franciscan Lamp of Lothian. His army ravaged the whole of Lothian, burning Edinburgh and the Shrine of the Virgin, at Whitekirk.

The Kirk o' St. Mary

Foundation

By 1380, the townsfolk of Haddington had recovered enough, to start building a new foundation. The kirk of Saint Mary took nearly a century to build, being consecrated around 1410 by Henry Wardlaw, Bishop of Saint Andrews; the structure was completed in 1462. However, in a document from this date the prior of Saint Andrew's promised a grant of £100 for the embellishment of the Choir.

References

Sources

• Bryant, Arthur. The Age of Chivalry. London 1963.
• Groome, F.H. Ordnance Gazetter of Scotland VI vols. Edinburgh 1883.
• McWilliam, Colin. Lothian, except Edinburgh, Harmondsworth, 1978.
• Nicholson, Ranald. Scotland-The Later Middle Ages. Edinburgh 1978

This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. {{cite encyclopedia}}: Missing or empty |title= (help)

External Links

• Website of St Mary's Kirk
• Haddington Community Council Website Selection of articles relating to St Mary's.
• RCAHMS Website Entry for St Mary's on the Royal Commmission's database.
• Rosslyn Templars website Selection of Photographs of carvings at St. Mary's.

Category:Collegiate churches in Scotland Category:Churches in East Lothian Category:Category A listed buildings Category:14th century architecture