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History of Thai clothing

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Thai traditional costumes vary by city and the ruler of each historical period.[1] Thai clothes can be classified according to six distinct periods of history; beginning with the 13th century. Previously, traditional Thai clothes were worn daily; however, they are now only worn on auspicious functions such as Thai traditional marriage ceremonies.

Sukhothai

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See also: Sukhothai Kingdom

Sukhothai clothing style became the fashion in 13-15th century. During the period The city-state of Sukhothai was united other Tai city-states into one kingdom. Sukhothai Men's clothing was a simple full-sleeved top with a long V shape neck and a cloth brace on their shoulders. The loincloth was made of silk with a big metal or golden belt. Women's clothing was a long silk sarong with flowers painted on it. The top normally is a full-sleeved silk cloth. Married women wore one cloth wrapped around the breasts made of silk or other fabric.[2]

Ayutthaya

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See also: Traditional Thai clothing and Ayutthaya Kingdom
Portrait of Siamese State Officials, one of portrait paintings collection in The Portraits of Periodical Offering of Imperial Qing by Xie Sui, 18th century painting in the National Palace Museum, Taipei.

Ayutthaya clothing was the style during the 14-18th centuries. Ayutthaya city was the capital of Thai kingdom for 417 years, the longest period of Thailand that was ruled under one monarch.[3][4] Many styles clothing followed the period of Ayutthaya but the fashion changed frequently under the influence from various countries who come into contact and trading with the kingdom.

Historically, both Thai males and females dressed themselves with a loincloth wrap called chong kraben. Men wore their chong kraben to cover the waist to halfway down the thigh, while women covered the waist to well below the knee.[5] Bare chests and bare feet were accepted as part of the Thai formal dress code, and is observed in murals, illustrated manuscripts, and early photographs up to the middle of the 19th century.[5] In the royal court, royalty and nobility men are wearing lomphok, a tall pointed hat, made of white cloth wrapped around a bamboo frame, and Khrui, a light outer garment worn as a gown or robe in certain ceremonial settings. Traditional Thai attire has changed significantly throughout the Rattanakosin period.[citation needed]

Thonburi

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Rattanakosin

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See also: Rattanakosin Kingdom

Early Rattanakosin

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Early Rattanakosin central Thais dressed as same as Ayutthaya period, however, after the Second Fall of Ayutthaya and repeated Burmese invasions, central Thai women began cutting their hair in a crew-cut short style, which remained the national hairstyle until the 1900s.[6] Prior to the 20th century, the primary markers that distinguished class in Thai clothing were the use of cotton and silk cloths with printed or woven motifs, but both commoners and royals alike wore wrapped, not stitched clothing.[7]

  • Men's clothing
  • Binnya Sein or Chaophraya Mahayotha, the commander of Mon regiment during the reign of King Rama I in the 1800s
    Binnya Sein or Chaophraya Mahayotha, the commander of Mon regiment during the reign of King Rama I in the 1800s
  • Prince Svasti Sobhana, the son of King Mongkut (Rama IV) wearing the royal costumes of the early Rattanakosin period
    Prince Svasti Sobhana, the son of King Mongkut (Rama IV) wearing the royal costumes of the early Rattanakosin period
  • Prince Nakkhatra Mangala, was the eldest son of Prince Kitiyakara Voralaksana wearing the royal costumes of the early Rattanakosin period
    Prince Nakkhatra Mangala, was the eldest son of Prince Kitiyakara Voralaksana wearing the royal costumes of the early Rattanakosin period
  • Photograph of the Siamese embassy to France in 1861, wearing the formal clothing of the early Rattanakosin period
    Photograph of the Siamese embassy to France in 1861, wearing the formal clothing of the early Rattanakosin period
  • Prince Ammarit, the son of King Nangklao (Rama III), before 1870
    Prince Ammarit, the son of King Nangklao (Rama III), before 1870
  • Sri Suriyawongse was a Prime Minister of Southern Siam during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), 1865
    Sri Suriyawongse was a Prime Minister of Southern Siam during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), 1865
  • Prince Yodyingyot, later Bowon Wichaichan with the early Rattanakosin style clothing, before 1885
    Prince Yodyingyot, later Bowon Wichaichan with the early Rattanakosin style clothing, before 1885
  • Young Prince Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and his two younger brother in 1851
    Young Prince Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and his two younger brother in 1851
  • Photograph of a 19th-century Siamese boatman by John Thomson
    Photograph of a 19th-century Siamese boatman by John Thomson
  • Mom Rachothai, Mom Rajawongse Kratai Isrankura
    Mom Rachothai, Mom Rajawongse Kratai Isrankura
  • Thai men squat with the early Rattanakosin style clothing
    Thai men squat with the early Rattanakosin style clothing
  • Thai noblemen, before 1950
    Thai noblemen, before 1950

Modern Rattanakosin

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See also: Raj pattern

From the 1860s onward, Thai royals "selectively adopted Victorian corporeal and sartorial etiquette to fashion modern personas that were publicized domestically and internationally by means of mechanically reproduced images."[7] Stitched clothing, including court attire and ceremonial uniforms, were invented during the reign of King Chulalongkorn.[7] Western forms of dress became popular among urbanites in Bangkok during this time period.[7]

During the early 1900s, King Vajiravudh launched a campaign to encourage Thai women to wear long hair instead of traditional short hair, and to wear pha sinh (ผ้าซิ่น), a tubular skirt, instead of the chong kraben (โจงกระเบน), a cloth wrap.[8]

Strict Public Mandate

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Main article: Thai cultural mandates

On 15 January 1941, Plaek Pibulsonggram issued a Thai cultural mandate to modernize and westernize Thai dress, by deeming long-practiced customs of wearing underpants, wearing no shirt, or wearing a wraparound cloth, as forms of inappropriate public attire.[9]

  • Galyani Vadhana, Princess of Naradiwas in 1941
    Galyani Vadhana, Princess of Naradiwas in 1941
  • Thai costumes in 1941
    Thai costumes in 1941
  • Plaek Pibulsonggram and La-iat Pibulsonggram in 1943
    Plaek Pibulsonggram and La-iat Pibulsonggram in 1943
  • Thai costumes in 1943
    Thai costumes in 1943
  • Thai costumes in 1943
    Thai costumes in 1943

Contemporary Thai clothing

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Main article: Formal Thai national costume

The formal Thai costume, known in Thai as ชุดไทยพระราชนิยม (RTGS: chut thai phra ratcha niyom, literally Thai dress of royal endorsement), includes several sets of dress, designed as the Thai national costume in formal occasions.[10] Although described and intended for use as national costume, they are of relatively modern origins, having been conceived in the second half of the 20th century.

  • Women's clothing
  • Princess Sirindhorn wearing the "Chut Thai Amarin" (Thai: ชุดไทยอัมรินทร์)
    Princess Sirindhorn wearing the "Chut Thai Amarin" (Thai: ชุดไทยอัมรินทร์)
  • Princess Soamsavali wearing the "Chut Thai Amarin" (Thai: ชุดไทยอัมรินทร์)
    Princess Soamsavali wearing the "Chut Thai Amarin" (Thai: ชุดไทยอัมรินทร์)
  • Princess Chulabhorn wearing the "Chut Thai Boromphiman" (Thai: ชุดไทยบรมพิมาน)
    Princess Chulabhorn wearing the "Chut Thai Boromphiman" (Thai: ชุดไทยบรมพิมาน)
  • Princess Ubolratana wearing the "Chut Thai Boromphiman" (Thai: ชุดไทยบรมพิมาน)
    Princess Ubolratana wearing the "Chut Thai Boromphiman" (Thai: ชุดไทยบรมพิมาน)
  • Men's clothing
  • Prem Tinsulanonda, former Thai Prime Minister wearing the "chut thai phra ratcha niyom" (Thai: ชุดไทยพระราชนิยม)
    Prem Tinsulanonda, former Thai Prime Minister wearing the "chut thai phra ratcha niyom" (Thai: ชุดไทยพระราชนิยม)
  • Former Thai Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva wearing the "chut thai phra ratcha niyom" (Thai: ชุดไทยพระราชนิยม)
    Former Thai Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva wearing the "chut thai phra ratcha niyom" (Thai: ชุดไทยพระราชนิยม)
  • Surayud Chulanont, former Thai Prime Minister wearing the "chut thai phra ratcha niyom" (Thai: ชุดไทยพระราชนิยม)
    Surayud Chulanont, former Thai Prime Minister wearing the "chut thai phra ratcha niyom" (Thai: ชุดไทยพระราชนิยม)

See also

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References

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  1. ^ Silahorm, kanokporn, kanhittha et al (2007),Thai Costume(In thai).
  2. ^ Chayada (2009), thaigoodview.com (in Thai)
  3. ^ Thailand Knowledge Center (March 2012),The costume of Ayutthaya(In thai)
  4. ^ "History of Thai Traditional Dress" (in Thai). 2023-04-10. Retrieved 2024-06-26.
  5. ^ a b Terwiel, Barend Jan (2007). "The Body and Sexuality in Siam: A First Exploration in Early Sources" (PDF). Manusya: Journal of Humanities. 10 (14): 42–55. doi:10.1163/26659077-01004003.
  6. ^ Jotisalikorn, Chami (2013). Thailand's Luxury Spas: Pampering Yourself in Paradise. Tuttle Publishing. p. 183.
  7. ^ a b c d Peleggi, Maurizio (2010). Mina Roces (ed.). The Politics of Dress in Asia and the Americas. Sussex Academic Press. ISBN 9781845193997.
  8. ^ Sarutta (10 September 2002). "Women's Status in Thai Society". Thaiways Magazine. Archived from the original on 31 October 2016. Retrieved 7 November 2016.
  9. ^ The Royal Gazette, Vol. 58, Page 113. January 21, B.E. 2484 (C.E. 1941). Retrieved on June 4, 2010.
  10. ^ "Types of Thai Clothing - dreamrentaldress.com" (in Thai). 2023-03-13. Retrieved 2024-06-26.
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