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Tenjen Sherpa

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Tenjen Sherpa
Personal information
Born1987/1988
Makalu, Sankhuwasbha, Nepal[1]
Died7 October 2023
Shishapangma, Tibet
NationalityNepalese
Career
Notable ascentsFastest to climb all 14 eight-thousanders within 92 days.

Tenjen Sherpa (1987/1988 – 7 October 2023), also known as Tenjen Lama Sherpa, was a Nepalese mountaineer who climbed all 14 eight-thousander together with Kristin Harila in 92 days.[2][3][1] He went missing after an avalanche hit on Shishapangma on 7 October 2023.[4][5] He was declared dead by Chinese authorities on 8 October 2023.[6]

Climbing career

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On 15 May 2019, he and his brothers established the record Most siblings to climb Kangchenjunga.[7][8] On 27 July 2023, Tenjen Lama Sherpa became the 50th recorded mountaineer to have successfully climbed all 14 eight thousanders. Since 27 July 2023, together with Kristin Harila, he held the record as the fastest person to reach the summit of all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres, which they did in 92 days.[9] They used helicopters to move between base camps and added supplemental oxygen.[10][11][12]

Tenjen worked as a climbing guide for the Nepalese adventure company Seven Summit Treks.[13][2]

Summit ascents

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2016

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2017

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2018

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2019

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2021

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2022

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2023

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Final Climb

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Lama was guiding American climber Gina Marie Rzucidlo, when he was lost in an avalanche on Shishapangma. At the time, Rzucidlo was vying with Anna Gutu to become the first American woman to climb all 14 of the eight-thousanders, a rivalry some have suggested as why the pair kept climbing despite deteriorating weather conditions.[31][32]

See also

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  • Nirmal Purja, a previous speed record-holder for ascents of all 14 eight-thousanders
  • Kim Chang-ho (climber), a previous holder of world speed record for all 14 eight-thousanders

References

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  1. ^ a b Sangay Sherpa (29 July 2023). "Tenjin Sherpa from field to summit of 14 peaks in 92 days with Kristin Harila". The Himalayan Times. Retrieved 10 August 2023.
  2. ^ a b Gopal Sharma (27 July 2023). "Norwegian woman, Nepali sherpa become world's fastest to climb all 14 tallest peaks". Reuters. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  3. ^ Binaj Gurubacharya (5 August 2023). "Norwegian climber retires after becoming the fastest to climb world's highest 14 peaks in 92 days". apnews.com. Retrieved 10 August 2023.
  4. ^ Harila i sorg: – Jeg har mistet en bror og en venn (in Norwegian)
  5. ^ a b c Benavides, Angela (7 October 2023). "Shishapangma Avalanche: Two U.S. Women, Two Sherpas Dead/Missing". Explorersweb. Retrieved 8 October 2023.
  6. ^ Benavides, Angela (9 October 2023). "Shishapangma Closes, Many Questions Remain". Explorersweb. Retrieved 10 October 2023.
  7. ^ a b "Most siblings to climb Kangchenjunga". Guinness World Records. 15 May 2019. Retrieved 29 July 2023.
  8. ^ a b Mountaineering in Nepal: Facts and figures, 2020 (PDF). Kathmandu: Government of Nepal, Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Department of Tourism. May 2020. p. 216.
  9. ^ a b "Kristin Harila, Tenjen Sherpa world's fastest to climb 14 peaks in 92 days". The Himalayan Times. 27 July 2023. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  10. ^ Beaumont, Peter (27 July 2023). "Norwegian woman claims record time for climbing world's 14 highest peaks". The Guardian. Retrieved 4 August 2023.
  11. ^ Sanjib Adhikari (27 July 2023). "Kristin Harila Broke the record on 14 Peaks, Beating Nims". Heaven Himalaya. Retrieved 4 August 2023.
  12. ^ Caolán Magee (27 July 2023). "Norwegian woman and Nepali guide set record for summit of 14 'super peaks'". CNN. Retrieved 4 August 2023.
  13. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r "Seven Summit Treks Tenjen Sherpa (Lama)". Seven Summit Treks. Archived from the original on 1 August 2023. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  14. ^ "What does six Nepalese sherpa says who climbed Manaslu in winter". Mt Everest Today. 18 January 2023. Retrieved 31 July 2023.
  15. ^ "Kristin Harila scales Mount Shishapangma". everestchronicle.com. 26 April 2023. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  16. ^ "Kristin Harila completes 14 peaks as she scales Cho Oyu". The Himalayan Times. 3 May 2023. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  17. ^ "Kristin Harila Summits Makalu With the Rope-Fixing Team » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. 13 May 2023. Retrieved 14 May 2023.
  18. ^ "Harila, among other climbers, summit Makalu". The Himalayan Times. 14 May 2023. Retrieved 19 May 2023.
  19. ^ Benavides, Angela (18 May 2023). "Updated: Harila Summits Kangchenjunga". Explorersweb. Retrieved 19 May 2023.
  20. ^ "Kristin Harila scales Kanchenjunga, completes 4 peaks in 23 days". The Himalayan Times. 18 May 2023. Retrieved 19 May 2023.
  21. ^ a b "Kristin Harila scales Everest, Lhotse in 8hrs completing six 8,000ers in less than a month". The Himalayan Times. 23 May 2023. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  22. ^ Benavides, Angela (29 May 2023). "Kristin Harila Summits Dhaulagiri". Explorersweb. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  23. ^ Angela Benavides (5 June 2023). "Harila Bags Annapurna, Eighth 8,000'er This Year". explorersweb.com. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  24. ^ Annapurna, Kris (10 June 2023). "Controversy As Harila's Team Summits Manaslu — By Using Helicopters in a New Way". Explorersweb. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  25. ^ "Kristin Harila, Tenjen Sherpa scale 9 peaks in 45 days, to complete all 14 in 3 months". The Himalayan Times. 10 June 2023. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  26. ^ Benavides, Angela (26 June 2023). "Nanga Parbat Summits » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  27. ^ Benavides, Angela (15 July 2023). "Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II Summits » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  28. ^ Benavides, Angela (18 July 2023). "Gasherbrum I Becomes Harila's 12th 8,000'er This Year". Explorersweb. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  29. ^ Benavides, Angela (23 July 2023). "Harila Tops Out On Broad Peak, Gasherbrum Summit Waves » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  30. ^ Wilhelms, Hanne (27 July 2023). "Harila har satt ny verdensrekord: – Krevende forhold". nrk.no (in Norwegian). Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  31. ^ Beech, Hannah; Sharma, Bhadra (11 June 2024). "A Champion Sherpa Died Guiding Foreigners. Is It Too Dangerous?". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Archived from the original on 11 June 2024. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
  32. ^ Benavides, Angela (9 October 2023). "Shishapangma Closes, Many Questions Remain » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 11 June 2024.


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