Talk:Anchor (climbing)
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Attachment to the anchor
[edit]This section seems to be about lead-climbing styles rather than "attachment to the anchor". I propose eliminating/moving the existing content and replacing it with a description of ways in which to attach to an anchor: I don't know the proper/common terminology, but attention should be directed toward:
- Direct / hard tied - Used when "tying in" on a ledge at a top belay or hanging belay. Used for securing gear or a bivy.
- Looped through - Using the anchor as a pulley, as in top-roping or hoisting.
- Passed through - The rope runs through a carabiner, as when lead climbing, or setting up a directional (deviation, redirect).
Hadron137 (talk) 20:42, 28 March 2016 (UTC)
DANGER: The section on redundancy needs some work - see the discussion in American death triangle. If you have a loop of cord/tape connected to two independent anchors and attach the load via a carabiner around both strands of cord it is *not* redundant. If an anchor fails the whole loop of cord can slip through the load carabiner. You need a half twist in the loop for it to be redundant - a diagram/photo would really help to explain this. I wonder if this article should have a warning that reading it is not a good substitute for guidance from a knowledgeable human - is that a thing in Wikipedia? — Preceding unsigned comment added by Blessed.meek (talk • contribs) 04:38, 13 November 2024 (UTC)