Omega Seamaster

Omega Seamaster

Omega Seamaster Co-Axial Master Chronometre (2024)
Manufacturer	Omega
Type	Manual / Automatic / Quartz
Introduced	1948

The Omega Seamaster is a line of automatic winding mechanical diving watches from Omega with a history that can be traced back to the original water-resistant dress-style watch released in 1948. The Seamaster collection is perhaps best known today for the Seamaster Diver Professional 300m model that has been worn in the James Bond movie franchise since 1995. Originally conceived as a dressy, water-resistant timepiece, the Omega Seamaster has evolved to a robust sports watch line, typically with a stainless steel case, robust water resistance, and an official chronometer-certified movement within. The Diver Professional 300m is most famous for its "train-track" five link steel bracelet, its helium release valve at the 10:00 position, the wave pattern dial on certain model generations, and the skeletonized handset.

The current model range is split into separate lines of Seamaster models: the Aqua Terra line serves as the everyday sports watch model, the Diver Professional 300m line is the successor to the 1995 James Bond watch, the Planet Ocean line serves as the heavier duty dive watch line, and the Seamaster 300 (not to be confused with the Diver 300m) and Railmaster lines are modern versions of those iconic models from Omega's past.

In 2019, three specially made experimental watches dubbed Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professionals survived a 10,928 meter dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench affixed to the bathyscaphe Limiting Factor, setting a new world record at the time as deepest dive watch by 12 meters.

Models

Omega produces several models of Seamaster watches, with numerous variations of case materials, bracelet, water resistance, and case diameter. The current offerings among the Seamaster line are below:

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m/2000ft diving watch

Seamaster Aqua Terra collection:

• Includes variations with date, day-date, annual calendar, GMT, world timer, and chronograph functionalities all sporting 150 meters of water resistance

Seamaster Diver Professional 300M collection:

• Includes variations with date, GMT, and chronograph functionalities all sporting 300 meters of water resistance

Seamaster Planet Ocean collection:

• Includes variations with date, GMT, and chronograph functionalities, all sporting at least 600 meters of water resistance. The Ultra Deep variant has a 6,000m water resistance depth rating, breaking all records at the time of its release

The Seamaster line also includes the below Heritage Models:

Seamaster 300:

• Not to be confused with the above Seamaster Diver Professional 300m; a modernized take on the original diving watch from Omega first launched in 1957

Seamaster Railmaster:

• A modernized take on the original antimagnetic watch offering from Omega which also first launched in 1957 and was specially designed for those working close to magnetic fields

Seamaster Ploprof 1200m:

• From "Plongeur Professionnel" or "Professional Diver"; originally launched in 1969, this is the continuation of Omega's heavy-duty tool watch for deep underwater use. This model was famously worn by Jacques Cousteau in his television series "The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau"

Seamaster Bullhead

• A distinctive chronograph arrangement with the pushers and crown at the 12:00 position instead of at 3:00, owing its name to its resemblance to a bull's horns

Seamaster 1948:

• A tribute to the first Seamaster models of 1948 but with modern case dimensions and movement

History

Omega Seamaster (1960). Champagne dial, ⌀ 35mm, small seconds.

The Seamaster is the longest-running product line still produced by Omega. It was introduced in 1948, and was based upon designs made for the British Royal Navy towards the end of World War II.

The original Seamaster's key feature was an O-ring gasket used to provide its waterproof seal. This design had been developed for use in submarines during the war and turned out to also be useful for watches, where it made them much less vulnerable to temperature and pressure changes than earlier lead- or shellac) based gasket designs. The Omega Seamaster first made a diving record in 1955, when diver Gordon McLean reached a depth of 62.5 metres (205 ft) in Australia.

James Bond

Omega Seamaster 120M Analog-Digital "Multifunction" was introduced in 1998 and discontinued after few years, fitted with Omega, Cal. 1665.

The Omega Seamaster watches have been associated with the James Bond movies since GoldenEye, where Pierce Brosnan wore the Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Quartz 2541.80.00. In the proceeding films starring Pierce Brosnan as the titular character, James Bond wore an Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Chronometer 2531.80.00.

Before 1995, actors portraying James Bond had usually worn the Rolex Submariner. Costume designer Lindy Hemming was primarily responsible for the switch to the Omega Diver 300M. She recognized the history of the Omega Seamaster watch in the British military (notably the Special Boat Service, synonymous with the character of Bond) which furthered her decision.

The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M commemorative edition for the 40th anniversary of James Bond with 007 logos. The second crown (at 10 o'clock) is a Helium release valve to allow helium out of the watch after wearing

Omega released a second James Bond limited edition watch in 2006. This was a Seamaster Planet Ocean model with a limited production of 5007 units. The model is similar to what Craig wears earlier on in the film; however, it has a small orange-colored 007 logo on the second hand, an engraved case-back signifying the Bond connection, and an engraved 007 on the clasp. In Quantum of Solace, Craig wears the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean with a black face and steel bracelet (42 mm version). Another limited edition was released featuring the checkered "PPK grip" face with the Quantum of Solace logo over it.

The Seamaster Professional Diver 300M was worn by James Bond in six movies, the Planet Ocean and Aqua Terra in three, in addition to sporting a limited edition Omega Seamaster 300 (not to be confused with the Professional Diver 300M) Master Co-Axial in Spectre. The Seamaster Professional Diver 300M that appears from GoldenEye to Casino Royale is made of stainless steel on a stainless steel bracelet, fitted with a blue dial, unidirectional rotating bezel with blue ring and a sapphire crystal. After its absence in three films, the Diver 300M returns in No Time to Die in the form of a new model, this time with a black dial, a titanium case, powered by Omega's Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8806 and is the first in the line of Seamasters to have a Milanese mesh strap and not to feature a date window. It was designed in collaboration with Daniel Craig.

The official James Bond Seamaster from No Time to Die

• GoldenEye – 1995
  • Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Quartz (2541.80.00)
• Tomorrow Never Dies – 1997
  • Seamaster Professional Diver 300M (2531.80.00)
• The World Is Not Enough – 1999
  • Seamaster Professional Diver 300M (2531.80.00)
• Die Another Day – 2002
  • Seamaster Professional Diver 300M (2531.80.00)
• Casino Royale – 2006
  • Seamaster Professional Diver 300M (2220.80.00)
  • Seamaster Professional Planet Ocean (2900.50.91)
• Quantum of Solace – 2008
  • Seamaster Professional Planet Ocean (2201.50.00)
• Skyfall – 2012
  • Seamaster Professional Planet Ocean (232.30.42.21.01.001)
  • Seamaster Aqua Terra (231.10.39.21.03.001)
• Spectre – 2015
  • Seamaster 300 "SPECTRE" Limited Edition (233.32.41.21.01.001)
  • Seamaster Aqua Terra (231.10.42.21.03.004)
• No Time to Die – 2021
  • Seamaster Professional Diver 300M (210.90.42.20.01.001)
  • Seamaster Aqua Terra (231.10.42.21.03.004)

Co-Axial movement

The term Co-Axial represents a specialized watch escapement exclusive to Omega that was developed in 1970 by British horologist and watchmaker George Daniels. The Swiss Lever escapement has been the standard in horology for hundreds of years. The escapement provides the release of energy from the mainspring to the going train that further controls the function of the moving parts that measure time and other complications. The Swiss lever, although the mainstay in the industry, has the capability to be strong on energy conservation but needs considerable lubrication between the impulse pallet and the escape wheel teeth due to sliding friction. This causes considerable wear on the lubrication over time and may cause wear on the pallet or escape wheel. Because of this, regular service (4–5 years) is recommended to clean, lubricate, and possibly replace parts. With the co-axial escapement, the impulse is done with a push to the jewels rather than a sliding fashion. In this design, the work is divided between two major wheels of the escapement. Daniels brought his desire to industrialize his escapement to many Swiss manufacturers, which he was ultimately denied. In 1999, Omega took on Daniels design with the insight of Nicolas Hayek who saw Omega as a brand of innovation and creativity that would rise to the top of the Swiss horological spectrum with the production of the co-axial escapement. He was right and Omega is one of the largest Swiss manufacturers and the second largest producer of COSC Officially Certified Chronometers, next to Rolex, with Breitling being third, with every one of their movements COSC chronometers. The first co-axial movement to be brought to the public was the Omega cal. 2500, with different variations being listed as A, B, C, and D. This movement was built from the Omega "in-family" cal. 1120 (finished chronometer grade ETA 2892-A with two extra jewels) A, B, and C are similar two-tier co-axial movements, but C is the first version to solve certain problems prevalent in A and B. For example, the vibrations per hour were originally 28,800 (standard for most Swiss watches with Swiss Lever Escapements) but later lowered to 25,200 (7 vs 8 beats a second). This change was noted to be the optimal working vibration of the movement and may contribute to lower service intervals. The coaxial D variation was made to allow for an even more efficient 3-tier escapement. This development of technology helped the company innovate the 8400 (no date), 8500 (w/date complications), and 9300 (chronograph) three-tier in-house movements. The co-axial D variation is still made specifically for the Omega Diver 300m co-axial. The Diver 300m, a watch produced since 1993, has a certain shape and size that are characteristic of this watch, the 2500 is slender enough to keep the case shape and size proportionate on the Diver 300m also known as the SMP.

Master Co-Axial / Master Chronometer

The next generation of watchmaking focuses on anti-magnetic movements. According to studies by the COSC, the majority of watches in for service from 4+ years are primarily suffering accuracy issues due to magnetized movements. Many Swiss watch institutions have made additional efforts to alleviate the problem of magnetization. Some of the technology and practices include iron cages around the movement, silicon hairspring (Omega) (spring in the balance wheel of the escapement), Parachrom hairsprings (Rolex), induction of plastic parts, and using non-magnetic metals. Only until recently has any watchmaker made a fully anti-magnetic movement. The first watch able to resist magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss was the Omega Aqua Terra Gauss. The first full anti-magnetic movement and Master Chronometer certified by the COSC is the Omega Constellation "Pie-Pan" Globemaster. This movement is capable of having a see-through case-back (the cal. 8800 in the new Seamaster 300 M) characterized by a movement with fully anti-magnetic parts. This is the beginning of a new generation of watch movements, re-institutionalizing the mechanical movement that once was deemed obsolete by the quartz movement of the 1970s to the present day. In 2018, on the 70th anniversary of the Seamaster and the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster Diver 300 M, Omega released a new version of the Diver 300 M (also known as Seamaster Professional). It features a zirconium dioxide bezel as well as a zirconium dioxide watch face with laser-engraved waves, paying tribute to the very first Seamaster Professional models. The watch is continued to be loved by collectors and enthusiasts as a "modern classic" with an outermost "go anywhere" attitude and elegance of a dress watch.

See also

• Dive watch
• Rolex Submariner
• Omega Seamaster Omegamatic
• Omega Speedmaster

External links

• Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC)

• Official website