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List of first ascents in the Cordillera Blanca

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The following list summarizes notable first ascents of mountains and peaks in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Ancash, Peru, in chronological order.

Date [1] Peak Height (m) Height (ft) Route Climbers Nationality Ref
2 Sep 1908 Huascaran N. 6655 21,834 Annie Smith Peck, Gabriel Zumtaugwald and Rudolf Taugwalder Switzerland United States [2]
20 Jul 1932 Huascaran S. 6746 22,132 Garganta and the NW-face Franz Bernard, Phillip Borchers, Erwin Hein, Hermann Hoerlin [de], and Erwin Schneider [de] Austria Germany [2]
3 Aug 1932 Chopicalqui 6345 20,846 Southwest Ridge Phillip Borchers, Erwin Hein, Hermann Hoerlin [de], and Erwin Schneider [de] Austria Germany [2]
12 Sep 1932 Huandoy N. 6395 20,866 Southern Slopes Erwin Hein and Erwin Schneider [de] Austria [2]
17 Jul 1936 Quitaraju 6036 19,820 West Ridge Erwin Schneider [de] and Arnold Awerzger [de] Germany [3]
25 Jun 1939 Ranrapalca 6162 20,217 Northeast ridge Walter Brecht, Siegfried Rohrer, Karl Schmid y Hans Schweizer Germany [2]
31 Jul 1939 Tocllaraju 6034 19,797 Northwest Ridge Walter Brecht and Hans Schweizer Germany [4]
Aug 1939 Hualcán N. 6122 20,085 South Ridge Siegfried Rohrer and Karl Schmid Germany [5]
20 Jul 1948 Santa Cruz 6241 20,535 Northeastern face Frédéric Marmillod and Ali Szepessy-Schaurek Hungary Switzerland [2]
7 Jul 1952 Huantsán 6369 20,896 North-Northwest Ice Ridge
(from Huantsan North)		 Lionel Terray, Cees G. Egeler and Tom de Booy France Netherlands [6]
31 Jul 1956 Chacraraju West 6112 20,039 Northeastern Face Lionel Terray, Maurice Davaille, Claude Gaudin, Pierre Souriac, Robert Sennelier France [3]
20 Jun 1957 Alpamayo 5947 19,511 South Ridge Günter Hauser [de], Berhard Huhn, Frieder Knauss, and Horst Wiedmann West Germany [7]
24 Jul 1962 Tullparaju 5787 18,986 West Ridge David Bernays, Leif-Norman Patterson and Charles Sawyer United States [8][9]
2007 Huaytapallana I 5557 18,232 Northwest Face Jim Sykes, Anthony Barton United StatesUnited Kingdom [10]
24 Jul 2008 Huaytapallana II 5025 16,486 North Ridge Anthony Barton, Olly Metherell United Kingdom [11][10]

See also

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Notes

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  • Juanjo Tomé, Escaladas en los Andes - Guía de la Cordillera Blanca, Madrid: Desnivel Ediciones, 1999, ISBN 978-8489969438
  • Lefebvre, Thierry, L’invention occidentale de la haute montagne andine, M@ppemonde Vol. 19 (2005).
  • Frederick L. Wolfe, High Summits: 370 Famous Peak First Ascents and Other Significant Events in Mountaineering History, Hugo House Publishers, 2013, ISBN 1936449358 (for a guideline; the book contains many major errors)

References

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  1. ^ An asterisk indicates that this is only the date of the first recorded ascent. There is either evidence for an earlier ascent or earlier ascents are very likely.
  2. ^ a b c d e f Lefebvre, Thierry L'invention occidentale de la haute montagne andine, M@ppemonde Vol. 19, p. 16 (2005)
  3. ^ a b Juanjo Tomé, Escaladas en los Andes - Guía de la Cordillera Blanca, Madrid: Desnivel Ediciones, 1999, ISBN 978-8489969438
  4. ^ "Tocllaraju". Summitpost.org. Retrieved February 20, 2017.
  5. ^ Ricker, John F. Yuraq Janka: A Guide to the Peruvian Andes, American Alpine Club p. 90 (1977)
  6. ^ D. F. O. Dangar, Alpine Notes, Alpine Journal Vol. 71, Nr 312-313 p. 145 (1966)
  7. ^ Jubiläumsexpedition Alpamayo - der schönste Berg der Welt Archived 2017-01-18 at the Wayback Machine (2014)
  8. ^ A Survey of Andean Ascents: 1961~1970 (1973)
  9. ^ Harvard Mountaineering 5(16) Archived 2017-02-07 at the Wayback Machine(1963),The Harvard Mountaineering Club, p. 19
  10. ^ a b "AAC Publications - South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huaytapallana I and Huayatapallana II, East Summit, First Ascents". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  11. ^ "British first ascent in the Cordillera Blanca". thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
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