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Eric Gilbertson (climber)

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Eric Gilbertson
Gilbertson on the summit of K2 in 2022
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born1986 (age 37–38)
Berea, Kentucky
WebsiteOfficial website
Instagram
Peakbagger account
Climbing career
Known for
  • Climbing 143 Country Highpoints as of September 2024
  • First along with twin brother Matthew to climb the highest points of all North American countries
  • Fifth finisher of the Canadian highpoints
  • Third American to receive Snow Leopard award
  • First along with Andreas Frydensberg to climb the highest points in each of the "-Stan" countries
  • Surveys in the Washington State area
  • First ascents in the Northwest Territories, Nunavut, Greenland, and Central Asia
First ascents
  • Alpomish

Eric Gilbertson (born 1986)[1] is an American mountaineer, explorer, peakbagger, and engineer.

Gilbertson and his twin brother Matthew are country highpointers, aiming to reach the summit of the highest mountain in every country in the world.[2]

Life

[edit]

Gilbertson was born in Berea, Kentucky.[1] Often, his family took trips to the Smoky Mountains and the White Mountains for peakbagging challenges, which inspired the country highpoints project.[3]

He and his twin brother Matthew attended the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), from which they graduated in 2014 with PhDs in mechanical engineering. Gilbertson currently teaches mechanical engineering at Seattle University in Seattle, Washington.[1][4]

Gilbertson is also a seven time finisher of the Boston Marathon.[5]

Climbing career

[edit]

Gilbertson began his climbing career with summiting the highest mountain in each U.S. state, starting in 1996 on Clingmans Dome in Tennessee, and finishing in February 2012 on Guadalupe Peak, Texas. Often, more challenging state highpoints such as Denali in Alaska were climbed through the MIT Outing Club (MITOC), MIT's outdoor club, from which Gilbertson learned the foundations of winter hiking and mountaineering.[1][3][6][7]

Gilbertson commonly climbed with his brother Matthew. They did other challenges, including a thru hike of the Appalachian Trail, climbing the hundred highest mountains in New England, and a 3,000 mile bike tour from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska to Great Falls, Montana.[8]

Gilbertson also pursued the Canadian Provincial and Territorial Highpoints, beginning in July 2011 on White Hill, Nova Scotia, and finishing in June 2019 on Mt. Caubvick (Mont D'Iberville), the dual highpoint of Newfoundland & Labrador and Quebec.[9] This made Gilbertson the fifth person in history to complete this list, along with American Jack Bennett in 1998, American Tom Bennett in 2010, Canadian Len Vanderstar in 2017, and Canadian Darrell Ainscough in 2018.[10]

In 2017 on Mt. Nirvana, the highest peak of the Northwest Territories, Gilbertson, along with climbers Dave Custer and Susan Ruff, established a new route on the West Face, with a YDS 5.9 crux. Gilbertson had previously climbed the peak unsupported with Len Vanderstar in 2016[11], and made an attempt on the West Face in 2015 with Custer & Ruff.[12][13]

In 2020, during the COVID-19 pandemic, Gilbertson pursued the Rocky Mountain Grand Slam; that is, the Colorado 14'ers, Wyoming 13'ers, and Montana 12'ers. He completed the list in 60 days, 9 hours, and 20 minutes.[14][15]

Country highpoints

[edit]

Gilbertson considers the 193 UN Members, the two UN observers, and Antarctica to be the countries in this project for a total of 196 political entities to highpoint. However, there are only 191 individual mountains given five sets of countries share a highpoint.[16][17][18] Gilbertson's first country highpoint was Denali in May 2010.[1][19]

Early on in the country highpoints project, Gilbertson targeted highpoints in Europe and the Americas.[19] He accumulated many European highpoints through long-distance bicycle tours, particularly in Northern Europe and Eastern Europe.[20][21]

In North America, the Gilbertsons became the first two people to climb the highest point in each of the 23 North American members, finishing in June 2015 on Pico Turquino, Cuba.[1][22]

As the European highpoints and North American highpoints became fewer in number, Gilbertson began to venture to Africa, South America, Asia, and Oceania.[19] Oftentimes, Gilbertson did expeditions in tropical Africa during the wintertime when glaciated highpoints could not be climbed.[23]

During the summer, Gilbertson focused on more demanding country highpoints. In Central Asia, he climbed the highest point in each of the "-Stan" countries, finishing in 2023. He and his climbing partner Andreas Frydensberg became the first people to achieve this feat, also making the first ascent of Alpomish in Uzbekistan which they determined to be higher than the previously accepted highpoint, Khazret Sultan. Along the way, they also completed the Snow Leopards list, which made Gilbertson the third American to receive a Snow Leopard award.[18][24][25]

In summer of 2022, when climbing K2, Pakistan's highest point and the world's second highest mountain, Gilbertson reached the summit without supplemental oxygen or sherpa support. While acclimating, he also ascended Broad Peak.[26][27]

Gilbertson made an attempt on Mount Everest, the highest peak in China & Nepal, in 2023 without supplemental oxygen, making it to 8,500 metres (27,887 feet) before symptoms of high altitude cerebral edema set in. He safely descended, and then made an ascent of Kanchenjunga, the highest peak in India and third highest peak in the world, with supplemental oxygen.[28][29]

As of September 2024, when excluding the mainland highpoints of Denmark, Australia, and the United Kingdom, Gilbertson has climbed 143 country highpoints[30], making him among the most successful country highpointers in history.[31] Note that this number considers dual country highpoints as two countries (i.e: Mont Blanc, although one mountain, counts as two country highpoints for France & Italy).[32]

Broken down by each continent, Gilbertson has thus far summited;[30]

Order of Country Highpoints Climbed

Sources:[33][34]

  • For Gilbertson's trip reports, see peakbagger or his website. Note that the latter website is organized considering both Eric & Matthew's ascents rather than either climber individually.

Key

  Country highpoint climbed
  Highest legal point reached
  Mainland highpoint reached
  Highpoint attempted
  Highpoint no longer considered highest or incorrect highpoint summited

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^ Antigua and Barbuda, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Canada, Costa Rica, Cuba, Dominica, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Grenada, Guatemala, Haiti, Honduras, Jamaica, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, St Kitts and Nevis, St Lucia, St Vincent and Grenadines, Trinidad and Tobago, United States of America
  2. ^ Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Ecuador, Paraguay, Uruguay
  3. ^ Albania, Andorra, Austria, Belarus, Belgium, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus*, Czech Republic, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, North Macedonia, Malta , Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Russia, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Ukraine, Vatican City
  4. ^ Denmark, United Kingdom, and Serbia are not counted. Gilbertson has thus far only summited the mainland highpoints of Denmark and the United Kingdom (Møllehøj and Ben Nevis respectively), and has not summited Velika Rudoka, the highest point in Serbia if Kosovo is included. He has summited Djeravica, formerly considered to be the highest point of Serbia, Kosovo included, and Midzor, the highest point of Serbia outside Kosovo. While Gilbertson counts Cyprus, he only made it to the highest legal point here. The Netherlands' overall highpoint, Mt. Scenery on Saba Island, was summited by Gilbertson.
  5. ^ Algeria, Benin, Botswana, Burundi, Cameroon, Cape Verde, Central African Republic, Côte d'Ivoire, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Egypt, Gabon, Gambia, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Kenya, Lesotho, Malawi, Mauritania, Mauritius, Morocco, Mozambique, Nigeria, Rwanda, Senegal, Seychelles, South Africa, Swaziland, Tanzania, Togo, Uganda, Zambia, Zimbabwe
  6. ^ Comoros and Namibia highpoints were climbed by Matthew Gilbertson and not Eric Gilbertson.
  7. ^ Fiji, Federated States of Micronesia, New Zealand, Palau, Papua New Guinea, Samoa
  8. ^ Australia is not included as Gilbertson has only climbed Kosciusko, the mainland highpoint.
  9. ^ Afghanistan, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Brunei, Cambodia, East Timor, India, Israel, Japan, Jordan, Kazakhstan, South Korea*, Kuwait, Kyrgyzstan, Lebanon, Malaysia, Mongolia, Oman, Pakistan, Palestine, Philippines, Sri Lanka*, Syria*, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Tajikistan, Thailand, Turkmenistan, United Arab Emirates, Uzbekistan, Vietnam
  10. ^ While South Korea and Israel are included, only the highest legal point was reached. Gilbertson attempted but did not summit Sri Lanka or Syria's highest points.

Other climbs, first ascents

[edit]

During the winter months, when not on country highpointing expeditions, Gilbertson climbs locally in the Washington state area, with the goal of climbing all of the Washington Bulgers (hundred highest peaks in Washington) in the winter months. He has made several first winter ascents of various Washington Bulgers.[35][36] Gilbertson is also pursuing the U.S. national park highpoints and the two hundred highest mountains in Washington.[8]

When on expeditions, Gilbertson also has made first ascents of several mountains, including in Central Asia, Nunavut, the Northwest Territories, and West Greenland.[35]

Surveys

[edit]

Gilbertson also has used survey equipment to determine more precise elevations of various highpoints & peaks.

For country highpoints, he has surveyed:

Gilbertson also determined the precise summit location of Pik Pobeda in Kyrgyzstan to be indeterminate, with the East, Central, and West summits being all of similar elevations with annual variations in snow pack thickness and cornices.[39]

He also has surveyed many local mountains in Washington, including Mount Rainier and the Washington Bulgers list. He determined that Columbia Crest, previously accepted as Mt. Rainier's highest summit, had melted down by approximately 21 feet (6.4 m) since 1999, which made a point on the mountain's southwest rim the highest elevation on the volcano.[36][40] He also surveyed Mount Davis in Pennsylvania, determining the traditional boulder summit to still be the highest elevation on this peak as opposed to the northern or southern summit.[41]

For future country highpoints, Gilbertson intends to measure their highest points and determine the exact highpoint, particularly in Colombia and Myanmar.[37]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b c d e f "North America". web.mit.edu. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  2. ^ "Climbing Every Country's High Point with Eric and Matthew Gilbertson". francistapon.com. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  3. ^ a b "About". Country Highpoints. 2015-12-12. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  4. ^ University, Seattle. "Eric Gilbertson, PhD". Seattle University. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  5. ^ "Athlete Resume" (PDF).
  6. ^ "Alaska". Country Highpoints. 2016-12-26. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  7. ^ "US State Highpoints". Country Highpoints. 2016-12-26. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  8. ^ a b "Projects". Country Highpoints. 2016-07-07. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  9. ^ "Canada Highpoints". Country Highpoints. 2016-07-07. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  10. ^ "Canada Province/Territory High Points - Peakbagger.com". www.peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  11. ^ "Follow The Climbs - Northwest Territories". Summits Of Canada. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  12. ^ "AAC Publications - Thunder Mountain (Mt. Nirvana), Unsupported Ascent, and Peak 46". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  13. ^ "Northwest Territories". Country Highpoints. 2016-07-07. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  14. ^ "Eric Gilbertson - Rocky Mountains Slam (CO, WY, MT) - 2020-08-15 | Fastest Known Time". fastestknowntime.com. 2020-06-16. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  15. ^ Milne, Keeley (2023-08-09). "Oregon's Jason Hardrath obliterates Rocky Mountain Grand Slam FKT". Canadian Running Magazine. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  16. ^ "Country Highpoints". Country Highpoints. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  17. ^ "Zwillinge wollen höchste Punkte in allen Ländern der Welt erreichen". Süddeutsche.de (in German). 2022-11-09. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  18. ^ a b "The Line: Global Ambition — American Alpine Club". American Alpine Club. 2024-08-21. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  19. ^ a b c "Latest Countries". Country Highpoints. 2015-12-08. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  20. ^ "About". Country Highpoints. 2015-12-12. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  21. ^ "Projects". Country Highpoints. 2016-07-07. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  22. ^ McLemore, Andrew (2022-08-12). "Twins Try to Climb Highest Mountain in All 196 Countries » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  23. ^ "Malawi – Saptiwa Peak". Country Highpoints. 2019-04-01. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  24. ^ Benavides, Angela (2023-12-01). "Eric Gilbertson Becomes Just 3rd American to Get Snow Leopard Award » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  25. ^ McLemore, Andrew (2023-09-12). "Duo Claims First Ascent Of Highest Peaks in All The 'Stans » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  26. ^ "K2 2022: No O's, Unsupported Summits on Broad Peak and K2 – Interview with Andreas Frydensberg and Eric Gilbertson | The Blog on alanarnette.com". www.alanarnette.com. 2022-08-12. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  27. ^ "Athletic Resume" (PDF).
  28. ^ Benavides, Angela (2023-06-01). "More Kangchenjunga Summits » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  29. ^ a b "The Line: Global Ambition — American Alpine Club". American Alpine Club. 2024-08-21. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  30. ^ a b "Country Highpoints". Country Highpoints. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  31. ^ "Front Runner List - Peakbagger.com". www.peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  32. ^ "Country Highpoints - Gilbertson Definition - Peakbagger.com". www.peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  33. ^ "Latest Countries".
  34. ^ "Country Highpoints - Gilbertson Definition".
  35. ^ a b "First Ascents". Country Highpoints. 2021-01-13. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  36. ^ a b "Beta and Brews: Winter FA of Hard Mox with Eric Gilbertson". The Mountaineers. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  37. ^ a b c McLemore, Andrew (2022-10-31). "Sometimes at Gunpoint, Twins Discover New Highpoints Around The World » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  38. ^ "فرواع..أعلى قمة سعودية". arriyadiyah.com (in Arabic). Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  39. ^ "The True Summit Location of Peak Pobeda". Country Highpoints. 2023-10-30. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
  40. ^ "Rainier Is Shorter Than We All Thought". Seattle Met. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
  41. ^ "Mt Davis, PA State Highpoint Survey". Country Highpoints. 2024-09-12. Retrieved 2024-09-12.