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Edinburgh Woollen Mill

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Purepay Retail Limited
Company typePrivate limited company
IndustryRetail
Founded1946; 78 years ago (1946)
FounderDrew Stevenson
HeadquartersCarlisle, England
BrandsAustin Reed
Gleneagles
Hector Russell
Jane Norman
Portree Knitwear
OwnerIdeal Enviro Holdings Limited
SubsidiariesBonmarché
James Pringle Weavers
Ponden Home
Romanes & Paterson
Websitewww.ewm.co.uk

Purepay Retail Limited, trading as The Edinburgh Woollen Mill, is a British clothing retailer founded in 1946 by Drew Stevenson. It is headquartered in Carlisle, England.[1]

In November 2002, Philip Day led a management buy-out of the retailer.[2] The Edinburgh Woollen Mill acquired Ponden Mill (later Ponden Homes) in January 2008, Peacocks in February 2012, and Bonmarché in April 2019.[3][4][5] The retailer also owned Jane Norman, before closing it in May 2018.[6] In April 2021, Peacocks was moved to a separate sister company.[7]

History

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In 1946, The Edinburgh Woollen Mill was founded by Drew Stevenson as the Langholm Dyeing and Finishing Company Limited, dyeing wool yarn to order. His eldest son, David Stevenson, opened the first retail store in Randolph Place, Edinburgh, in 1970. In 1972, the first English store was opened in Carlisle.[8][9]

Having been owned by several equity holdings over the previous decade the company was bought out by the newly formed EWM Group and was then subject to a secondary, management takeover in 2002, led by the current chief executive, Phillip Day.[citation needed]

The company's core Edinburgh Woollen Mill stores have traditionally targeted men and women over the age of 40.[10]

In 2011, the group bought Jane Norman out of administration, having bought Ponden Mills, and merged it with 80 stores bought from the collapsed Rosebys home furnishings store to create Ponden Home.[citation needed]

On 22 February 2012, it was announced that EWM had purchased the Peacocks clothing retail brand along with 388 stores and concessions, its headquarters and logistics functions.[11][12] Although over 200 stores were not acquired at this time, the chain has embarked on a programme of expansion since.

In 2016 EWM purchased the Austin Reed brand, the British fashion retailer founded in 1900,[citation needed]

The group also own James Pringle Weavers.[13][14]

As of 2016, the retailer owned 88 tourist shops and visitor centres trading under various fascias[15] (e.g. James Pringle Weavers)[16] and 27 destination sites combining all the Group's concepts[15] (e.g. Masson Mill)

EWM placed Jane Norman into administration in June 2014, but retained the brand and stock to sell as an online-only business.[17]

In April 2017, EWM made a substantial loan to Carlisle United Football Club. This was seen by some to be a move aimed at eventually taking full control of the club.[citation needed]

In May 2017, it was understood that EWM had bought the Jaeger brand and debt (but not the main company, or payments to its suppliers) from its former owner, Better Capital.[18][19]

In May 2017, EWM opened the first Days (department store), in what had been the BHS premises in Guildhall Square, Carmarthen, which will house Peacocks, Edinburgh Woollen Mill, Ponden Home, Jane Norman, and Austin Reed brands.[20][21] This was intended to be the first of a chain of Days department stores.[18]

In May 2020, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association in a letter to Philip Day had warned that they would blacklist EWM for non-payment of suppliers in Bangladesh and not returning their calls.[22][23] The COVID-19 pandemic resulted in orders being cancelled or retailers asking for heavy discounts which led to workers going without pay or being fired.[24]

In October 2020, EWM, which at that time had 24,000 employees, announced it planned to restructure.[25]

In November 2020, Edinburgh Woollen Mill was placed into administration.[26]

In January 2021, it was announced that Marks & Spencer had acquired the Jaeger fashion brand but not Jaeger's 63 shops and 13 concessions, for £5 million.[27][28]

In January 2021, it was announced that Edinburgh Woollen Mill, Ponden Homes and Bonmarché had been bought out of administration by an international consortium of investors who injected fresh funds into the business (led by the existing management team).[29]

In April 2021, it was announced that Peacocks had been brought out of administration by a senior executive backed by an international consortium of investors, removing it from The Edinburgh Woollen Mill to a sister company. The Edinburgh Woollen Mill Group's chief operating officer Steve Simpson took over the business, as CEO.[30][31]

References

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  1. ^ "First minister 'disappointed' by EWM move". BBC News. 24 May 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  2. ^ "Management team buys Edinburgh Woollen Mill But (pounds) 67.5m deal infuriates some former shareholders". The Herald. 19 November 2002. Retrieved 7 December 2024.
  3. ^ "Edinburgh Woollen Mill sales stay flat". Drapers. 3 December 2010. Retrieved 7 December 2024.
  4. ^ WalesOnline (22 February 2012). "Peacocks' HQ saved in Edinburgh Woollen Mill buyout deal but 3,000 jobs lost". Wales Online. Retrieved 7 December 2024.
  5. ^ Nazir, Sahar (2 April 2019). "Edinburgh Woollen Mill's Philip Day snaps up Bonmarche for £5.7m". Retail Gazette. Retrieved 7 December 2024.
  6. ^ Hounslea, Tara (6 August 2018). "Exclusive: EWM Group 'mothballs' Jane Norman to focus on newer brands". Drapers. Retrieved 7 December 2024.
  7. ^ Dirvanauskas, Gabriele (6 April 2021). "Peacocks bought out of administration". Drapers. Retrieved 12 December 2024.
  8. ^ "Edinburgh Woollen Mill set to move HQ to England". www.scotsman.com. Retrieved 12 June 2020.
  9. ^ "Brothers sell off Langholm Dyers". HeraldScotland. 29 November 1989. Retrieved 12 June 2020.
  10. ^ "Edinburgh Woollen Mill". themedialounge.com. Archived from the original on 19 December 2007. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  11. ^ "Peacocks' HQ saved in buyout deal but 3,000 jobs lost". 22 February 2012.
  12. ^ "Peacocks takeover: Edinburgh Woollen Mill buy retailer but 3,100 jobs lost". BBC News. 22 February 2012.
  13. ^ "Retail group rescue package will ensure the survival of shops in Inverness, Fort Augustus and John O'Groats". Inverness Courier. 13 January 2021. Retrieved 10 December 2024.
  14. ^ Ross, John (2 July 2024). "'We are kind of forgotten': James Pringle Weavers' Holm Mills shop on attracting customers". Press and Journal. Retrieved 10 December 2024.
  15. ^ a b About Us - The Edinburgh Woollen Mill. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  16. ^ "James Pringle". The Herald. 13 March 2012.
  17. ^ Wood, Zoe (24 June 2014). "Fashion retailer Jane Norman stores placed in administration". The Guardian. Retrieved 31 December 2014.
  18. ^ a b "Philip Day confirms Jaeger buy, opens first Days department store - News : Retail (#832507)". Uk.fashionnetwork.com. Retrieved 31 May 2017.
  19. ^ Sarah Butler (1 January 1970). "Edinburgh Woollen Mill acquires Jaeger brand in plan for new chain | Business". The Guardian. Retrieved 31 May 2017.
  20. ^ Soult, Graham. "Days department store in the ex-BHS in Carmarthen: what we know so far - Soult's Retail View". Soultsretailview.co.uk. Retrieved 31 May 2017.
  21. ^ Tim Wallace (28 May 2017). "New department store Days opens in bid to defy trend of closures". The Telegraph. Telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 31 May 2017.
  22. ^ "BGMEA threatens to blacklist British retailer EWM over non-payment". The Daily Star. 23 May 2020. Retrieved 22 May 2020.
  23. ^ "BGMEA warns British firm of action if deal broken". New Age. Retrieved 22 May 2020.
  24. ^ Foundation, Thomson Reuters. "As fashion sales fall, brands leave Asia garment workers in limbo". news.trust.org. Retrieved 22 May 2020. {{cite web}}: |first= has generic name (help)
  25. ^ Ziady, Hanna (9 October 2020). "Another 24,000 retail jobs at risk as UK fashion group faces collapse". CNN. Archived from the original on 9 October 2020. Retrieved 11 October 2020.
  26. ^ "Edinburgh Woollen Mill collapse puts jobs at risk". BBC News. 6 November 2020. Retrieved 6 November 2020.
  27. ^ Davis, Barney (11 January 2021). "Marks & Spencer saves Jaeger from collapse but stores set to close". Evening Standard. Retrieved 12 April 2021.
  28. ^ Jolly, Jasper (11 January 2021). "Marks & Spencer buys Jaeger fashion brand from administrators". The Guardian. t#. Retrieved 12 April 2021.
  29. ^ "Edinburgh Woollen Mill rescue deal to save 2,000 jobs". BBC News. 12 January 2021. Retrieved 13 January 2021.
  30. ^ Dirvanauskas, Gabriele (6 April 2021). "Peacocks bought out of administration". Drapers. Retrieved 12 April 2021.
  31. ^ Jahshan, Elias (6 April 2021). "Peacocks rescued from administration". Retail Gazette. Retrieved 10 April 2021.
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