Eric Gilbertson (climber)
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 Gilbertson on the summit of K2 in 2022 | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Nationality | American |
| Born | 1986 (age 38–39) Berea, Kentucky |
| Website | Official website |
| Climbing career | |
| Type of climber | |
| Known for |
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| First ascents |
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Eric Gilbertson (born 1986)[1] is an American mountaineer, peakbagger, and engineer.
Gilbertson and his twin brother Matthew are country high pointers, aiming to reach the summit of the highest mountain in every country in the world.[2]
Early life and engineering career
[edit]Gilbertson was born in Berea, Kentucky.[1] During his youth, Gilbertson and his family often traveled to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.[3]
He and his twin brother Matthew attended the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). While at MIT, they joined the MIT Outing Club, where they learned mountaineering skills.[3]
Gilbertson currently teaches mechanical engineering at Seattle University in Seattle, Washington.[4]
Climbing career
[edit]Gilbertson has climbed the highest point in every U.S. state (finishing in 2012), and the highest point in each Canadian province and territory.[4][5]
In 2020, during the COVID-19 pandemic, Gilbertson pursued the Rocky Mountain Grand Slam, or every Colorado 14'er, Wyoming 13'er, and Montana 12'er. He completed the list in 60 days, 9 hours, and 20 minutes.[6]
When not on international expeditions, Gilbertson climbs locally in the Washington state area, with the goal of climbing all of the Washington Bulgers, or the hundred highest peaks of Washington, in winter.[7]
Country high points
[edit]Gilbertson considers the highest points of 196 political entities,[note 1] including the 193 U.N. Members, the 2 U.N. observers[note 2], and Antarctica.[8] His first country high point was Denali in May 2010.[3]
The Gilbertsons became the first two people to climb the highest point in each of the 23 North American U.N. members, finishing in June 2015 on Pico Turquino, Cuba.[9]
In Europe, Gilbertson did long-distance bike tours to climb multiple country high points in one trip. He often traveled frugally to save money. As an engineering student, Gilbertson took advantage of free travel for international conferences to climb country high points. In rural regions of developing countries, Gilbertson often needed to use bribes to continue traveling.[3][8][10]
In summer 2022, Gilbertson summited K2, Pakistan's highest point, without supplemental oxygen or sherpa support. He summited Broad Peak prior during acclimatization.[11][12]
In 2023, Gilbertson made an attempt on Mount Everest, the highest peak in China & Nepal, without supplemental oxygen or sherpa support, making it to 27,887 ft (8,500 m) before turning back when symptoms of high altitude cerebral edema appeared. He descended and made an ascent of Kanchenjunga, the highest peak in India, with supplemental oxygen.[12]
In Central Asia, Gilbertson climbed the highest point in each of the "-Stan" countries,[note 3] finishing in 2023. He and his climbing partner Andreas Frydensberg of Denmark became the first two people to do so. In Uzbekistan, they made the first ascent of Alpomish, determining it to be higher than Khazret Sultan. They also completed the Snow Leopards list, with Gilbertson becoming the third American to receive a Snow Leopard award.[12]
As of August 2024, Gilbertson has climbed 143 country high points.[12]
Surveys
[edit]Gilbertson has made numerous unofficial surveys in both the United States and internationally, using a theodolite or advanced GPS unit.[4]
In 2018, he surveyed Jabal Ferwa & Jabal Sawda in Saudi Arabia, determining the former to be Saudi Arabia's highest mountain.[4][13][14] In 2021, he surveyed various peaks on an expedition to West Africa, determining new high points in Gambia, Togo, and Guinea-Bissau.[15] In 2023, he surveyed Alpomish in Uzbekistan, determining it to be higher than Khazret Sultan.[12]
In Washington, Gilbertson has surveyed numerous mountain peaks in the Washington Bulgars list.[7] In 2024, he surveyed Mount Rainier, determining that the Columbia Crest, previously accepted as the volcano's highest summit, had melted down by approximately 21 feet (6.4 m) since 1999, making the new highest elevation a point on the mountain's southwest rim. Gilbertson estimated that the Southwest rim overtook Columbia Crest around the year 2014.[16][17]
See also
[edit]- Ginge Fullen, British mountaineer and highpointer
- Francis Tapon, American writer and highpointer
- Highpointing, activity of ascending to the highest point in a given area
- Peak bagging, activity of climbing a collection of mountain peaks
- List of elevation extremes by country
Notes
[edit]- ^ Five sets of countries share a high point (Albania & North Macedonia, France & Italy, Uganda & DRC, Guinea & Côte d'Ivoire, and China & Nepal). The highest points of countries such as the Holy See, Serbia, and Israel can vary depending on where international borders are recognized. Countries such as the Netherlands, Denmark, the United Kingdom, and Australia have high points not located on their mainland when including overseas territories. Countries without a thorough survey may have multiple high point candidates, such as Myanmar, Colombia, and several Pacific island nations.
- ^ Holy See and Palestine
- ^ Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan
References
[edit]- ^ a b "North America". web.mit.edu. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
- ^ "Billigreisen und geschmierte Polizisten – die Abenteuer der Kletter-Zwillinge". Tages-Anzeiger (in German). 2022-10-25. Retrieved 2024-12-07.
- ^ a b c d "Country Highpoints. Bracia jako pierwsi chcą zdobyć najwyższe szczyty górskie w 196 krajach | National Geographic". www.national-geographic.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 2024-11-26.
- ^ a b c d Southern, Keiran (2022-11-02). "Twin peaks: brothers Matthew and Eric Gilbertson rewrite mountain record books". www.thetimes.com. Retrieved 2024-11-26.
- ^ "Episode 104: What Route has 432,500' of elevation gain? Eric Gilbertson is here to tell you. | Fastest Known Time". fastestknowntime.com. Retrieved 2024-11-26.
- ^ Milne, Keeley (2023-08-09). "Oregon's Jason Hardrath obliterates Rocky Mountain Grand Slam FKT". Canadian Running Magazine. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
- ^ a b "Beta and Brews: Winter FA of Hard Mox with Eric Gilbertson". The Mountaineers. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
- ^ a b "Zwillinge wollen höchste Punkte in allen Ländern der Welt erreichen". Süddeutsche.de (in German). 2022-11-09. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
- ^ Ghosh, Souparno. "Alumni have summitted the highest points of every North American country". The Tech. Retrieved 2024-11-26.
- ^ "Billigreisen und geschmierte Polizisten – die Abenteuer der Kletter-Zwillinge". Tages-Anzeiger (in German). 2022-10-25. Retrieved 2024-12-29.
- ^ "Wolt-bud besteg verdens farligste bjerg og var tæt på katastrofe: Pludseligt regnede det med tunge sten og iltflasker | fyens.dk". fyens.dk (in Danish). 2022-10-22. Retrieved 2024-12-07.
- ^ a b c d e "The Line: Global Ambition — American Alpine Club". American Alpine Club. 2024-08-21. Retrieved 2024-09-10.
- ^ "فرواع..أعلى قمة سعودية". arriyadiyah.com (in Arabic). Retrieved 2024-09-11.
- ^ "A Tale of Two Peaks - Destination KSA". 2018-11-27. Retrieved 2024-11-26.
- ^ "Newsday - Twin peaks: Brothers' mission to climb every national highpoint - BBC Sounds". www.bbc.co.uk. Retrieved 2024-11-26.
- ^ "Mount Rainier is shrinking and now has a new summit". The Seattle Times. 2024-10-06. Retrieved 2024-11-30.
- ^ "Rainier Is Shorter Than We All Thought". Seattle Met. Retrieved 2024-09-11.
Climbing publications
[edit]Books
[edit]- Gilbertson, Eric, Gilbertson Matthew (2009). Mountain Adventures: Whites, West, and the Appalachian Trail. AuthorHouse. ISBN 978-1438981444.
- Gilbertson, Eric, Gilbertson Matthew (2013). The Great Quest: Fifty US State High Points and More. AuthorHouse.
- Gilbertson, Eric, Gilbertson, Matthew (2018). Twins to the Tops: The Quest for the North American Country High Points. AuthorHouse. ISBN 978-1546251125.
- Gilbertson, Eric, Gilbertson Matthew (2023). Twins to the Tops: The Highpoints of Canada’s Provinces and Territories. AuthorHouse. ISBN 979-8823012904.
- Gilbertson, Eric (2024). Seven Summits of the Stans.