Draft:Customs House, Singapore

The building in 2016

The Customs House, formerly the Customs Harbour Branch Building, is a building on Collyer Quay in Singapore. Completed in the late 1960s, it was occupied by the Singapore Customs. It was connected to other developments on the waterfront following restoration works and currently houses several restaurants.

Description

The building features a "unique" 75 foot watch tower, as well as a "butterfly" façade made of concrete and a square "definitive umbrella-like" pavilion. It stands on an 'L'-shaped pier. According to BeMuse, which is published by the National Heritage Board, it was "one of Singapore's earliest public buildings built in the simple and functional 'Modern' style." Carol Lim of Skyline wrote in 2006 that the building "heralds the move towards simple and fuctional styles of architecture for public buildings", and that it "serves as a reminder of Singapore's vibrant maritime history that was a major lifeline for our economy. It currently houses the restaurants Caffe Fernet, Kinki, L'Entrecôte The Steak & Fries Bistro, Nusa Grill, Sabai Fine Thai on the Bay and Super Loco Customs House.

History

The building prior to restoration in 2006

The building's construction, which cost $1.8 million, began in April 1968 and was in October 1969. It was built by the Public Works Department. The building was designed such that it "blends with the city skyline". It had 35 launches and speedboats, which were berthed in a "'U'-shaped enclosure". At its completion, Francis Rozario The Straits Times reported that its "striking and its imposing tower gives new impact to the seafront scene." The harbour division of the Singapore Customs moved into the building in the middle of October, after which its previous premises at Godown One at the Telok Ayer Basin was taken over by the Port of Singapore Authority.

In 2006, the Urban Redevelopment Authority put the building up for tender. In September, the authority announced that the building had been approved for conservation and that it would be gazetted. In December, it was announced that, Sino Land, a sister company of the Far East Organization, had acquired the Customs House and the Clifford Pier for $165.8 million. There were intially plans for Precious Treasure, a unit of Sino Land, to convert the Customs House into a maritime gallery by 2009 after the building had undergone restoration.

Tender

The building undergoing renovations in 2008

Rendering of the building as part of The Fullerton Heritage

The building was gazetted for conservation along with the nearby Clifford Pier and Change Alley Aerial Plaza by the Urban Redevelopment Authority on 14 March 2007. The building was then restored, with DP Architects serving as the project's architects, after which it was connected to the newly-built and next-door Fullerton Bay Hotel. It was also connected to the historic Clifford Pier on the other side of the hotel via a covered linkway. The restoration project involved the installation of feature wall, as well as vertical strips of planters to "soften" its exterior and to "act as a transition between the old and the new." The windows of the watch tower was restored and repainted, while the handrail leading up to the tower, which was "in a state of disrepair" and was replaced by a handrail that was "identical" and "custom-made". A glass shopfront was introduced to the ground floor. Mechanical and electrical facilities were installed on the roof. The restoration project received the "Category B" award at the Urban Redevelopment Authority Architectural Heritage Awards.

In July 2010, the building reopened with a "dining and entertainment cluster". At the time, three of the restaurants, Kinki, Nueva Cuba and Oyster Bar, had already opened. A fourth restaurant, Procacci, was to open later that same month while the details for a fifth food and beverage outlet had yet to be finalised. Jaime Ee of The Business Times described the newly-reopened building as a "boutique-like destination for those wanting a semi-exclusive location to dine or have a drink."

Restaurants

Kinki at Customs House

In late May 2010, the Japanese-style restaurant-bar Kinki at Customs House was opened within the building, featuring a menu designed by executive chef Wing Lam. The restaurant, which was named after the kinki fish and as a play on the word "kinky", featured "raw, urban Japanese rock-inspired decor" and a "kabuki-esque" mural by American tattoo artist Chris Garver on the floor. The interior also featured "suitably exposed" piping and lighting disguised as fishhooks, as well as graffiti by numerous local artists, including ANTZ on its walls. In a positive review of the establishment, Annette Tan of today wrote that it "offers modern Japanese flavours in a vibrant space." Tan praised the unagi and scallop maki, the pomegrenate miso black cod, the grilled giant sea prawn and the tai carpaccio appetiser. She also wrote that okonomiyaki "could use a nudge of refinement" despite being "quite delicious". Wong Ah Yoke of The Straits Times wrote a largely positive review of the restaurant, praising the momotaro tomato, the "very memorable" king salmon maki and the okonomiyaki. He also called the unagi and Hokkaido scallop maki and the foie gras and scallop sushi "not as good but still very decent." However, he called the diced century egg in the snow crab and century egg tofu "flat-tasting", the pork cutlet in the kurobuta katsu "rather dry" and the Oreo sesame ice cream "more like a blended drink than a dessert." He gave it a score of 3.5/5 for food, 4/5 for service and 4/5 for ambience.

In an October 2020 review of Kinki at Customs House, Crystal Lee of Prestige wrote: "Pre-covid, Kinki had a rep for sweaty, riotous nights at its rooftop bar — which, by the way, offers some serious cocktails (the glitter-infused and deceivingly strong Gold Quencher and She’s So Unusual won our hearts). It’s quietened down now thanks to social distancing rules, but this also means the food, in all of its delicious, not-quite-Japanese brilliance, can finally get a well-deserved spotlight." Lee highlighted the unagi claypot, which she described as a "steaming, magical casserole of exquisite char, gravy-laden grains and melt-in-your-mouth eel". She also praised the Nagano pork and the crusty lamb. Its mascot was Kinki-chan, a "sumo-turned-chef". The restaurant reopened following a "major makeover" with a new "geisha" theme. The mascot was changed to a geisha, with the dragon graffiti at the rooftop bar being replaced by a piece depicting a Geisha "rocking eye-popping red shades, half her face snarling in a kitsune mask." Jolene Chee of City Nomads noted that the restaurant's menu had not received significant alterations in the makeover.

Fine Thai at Sabai

The Fine Thai at Sabai, an outlet of the Fine Thai restaurant serving Thai cuisine, opened at the building in January 2011. Wong Ah Yoke of The Straits Times wrote a positive review of the restaurant, calling it "just as good" as the original Fine Thai restaurant, while in a "less formal environment." He praised the red curry with roasted duck and the seafood tom yam, as well as the deep-fried stuffed chicken wings starter and the mango with sweetened sticky rice and home-made coconut ice cream desserts. However, he called the bird's eye chilli, garlic and fresh lime juice a "tad too sour". He gave it a score of 4/5 for food, 3.5/5 for service and 3.5/5 for ambience.

In a mixed review of the restaurant, Eve C. of Time Out wrote: "Sabai is certainly a worthy consideration for Thai fare if you are in the vicinity of Marina Bay and looking for a kingly setting, but we wouldn't make a detour here for any royal eats." She wrote that while the appetisers "started things off auspiciously enough" and the desserts "offered a saving grace", the green curry with beef fillet "paled alongside its deliciously savoury counterparts at Thanying, as well as the smooth and saucy one at Porn's "while a dish including shelled and baked crab claws accompanied by noodles "suffered from miserly, thumbsized claws which failed to cloak those rice noodles with rich shellfish flavours." In 2022, the restaurant received the Thai SELECT Award, which was launched by the Department of International Trade Promotion of Thailand as a "seal of approval granted to Thai restaurants that serve genuine Thai cuisine."

Super Loco Customs House

In October 2016, the Super Loco Custom House restaurant, serving Mexican cuisine, opened at the building, with Australian culinary director Jason Jones serving as the chef. The restaurant is operated by the Loco Group, which also operates Lucha Loco at Duxton Hill and the Super Loco Robertson Quay on Robertson Quay. It replaced the restaurant Procacci. Yeoh Wee Teck of The New Paper praised it in a review written at its opening, calling it "one of the best new places I've eaten at this year." He praised the Pescado Asada Con Chili Rojo Y Perejil, the Atun Tostadas, the Ensalada Granos and the Tostadas Dulce De Chocolate, but criticised the Cerdo, writing that the dish "arrived on the plate uneven", and that some parts were "too dry", while noting that the black bean hummus "saved it from being forgettable." In November, Wong Ah Yoke of The Straits Times wrote a positive review of the restaurant, giving it a score of 3.5/5 for food, 3.5/5 for service and 3/5 for ambience. Wong wrote that the "dishes are full of sharp and bright flavours that pique the palate." Wong praised the Aguachile ceviche, the Langosta Tostada and the De Res Taco dishes, as well as the Tres Leche dessert. However, he criticised the Pulpo, which he called "disappointingly flat", and the Carne Asada.

Annette Tan of today wrote: "A lovely new addition to the waterfront. It's not just the food that’s good; the drinks — showcasing the largest selection of agave spirits and plenty of aged tequilas — are as much a part of the draw." Tan wrote that it "manages to bring a sense of lightness to the dishes served here", praising the bowl of esquites or sauteed sweetcorn, the mole Oaxaqueno sauce and the Cerdo, stating that the lattermost is "alone is reason to gather your friends for a meal here." While writing that the "something-for-everyone cliche holds true here", Tan also stated that the cerviche was "too acidic" and that the blinis that came with the Tres Leches dessert were "stodgy". With regard to the atmosphere, she wrote that the restaurant's glass walls "highlight its breezy, idyllic location" and that it is "far more idyllic after dusk when the heat of the day dissipates." Of the decor, she wrote that while the interior "may have taken inspiration from the ramshackle vibrancy of Mexico, what with handmade tiles and hand-painted artworks, but its owners' Aussie roots are also starkly evident", and that there is a "sense of airy modernity in the tasteful splashes of muted colour and the brass accents that lend just the right amount of polish."

In March 2024, the restaurant also received a "recommended" review from Time Out, which praised the roasted cauliflower and the beef quesadilla, as well as the frozen margaritas. The review further noted that the restaurant has "stunning views of Marina Bay Sands and the waterfront."

Caffe Fernet

The Caffe Fernet, a 130-seat "modern Italian restaurant-bar" housed in the previously vacant pavilion featuring "panoramic views of the Marina Bay Promenade", opened in the building on 7 March 2018. The contemporary Italian menu was created by chef David Tang. It is run by the Jigger & Pony Group. The 1,800 sqft restaurant became the group's largest establishment at its opening, with tall vaulted ceilings and lightbulbs which "inject a retro feel". At its opening, it received mixed reviews from both Nicole Marie-Ng of Time Out and Jaime Ee of The Business Times. Ee gave the restaurant a "promising" score of 6/10 and wrote that the restaurant "feels like Jigger & Pony has shed its indie, trend-setting status for a shot at commercial success, joining the ranks of generic waterfront restaurant-bars with few distinguishing features. Good for them, but as a dining experience, it leaves us pretty cold." Ee praised the charred octopus, which she called "generally well-executed", the porchetta, which she called the "most confident dish of the lot", as well as the Spanner crab meat. However, she wrote that the raw tuna and spicy Italian nduja paste on crunchy sourdough toast "obliterates" the "perfectly good" sashimi, with "strong" and "dominant" chilli paste. Ee also criticised the bombolini and the tiramisu, the latter of which she called a "shadow of the real thing, plagued also by a weird Thai-like, perfumey flavour." She further noted that the restaurant features a "view that sells itself to tourists" but "intensely uncomfortable" furniture, as well as "loud music, cramped table space and non-existent ambience."

Marie-Ng gave the restaurant a "Good" score of 3/5 and wrote that while it is "gorgeous from the inside out – the shiny long bar beckons with warm tones of brown, brick red and gold, and the restaurant portion offers views of glistening Marina Bay", it is "just trading on its good looks at the moment." Marie-Ng praised the "incredibly juicy" veal meatballs and the "crispy" golden beetroot. However, she called the hamachi crudo and the mafaldine cacio e pepe "easily forgettable. With regard to the craft cocktails Marie-Ng praised The Summer Strolls and the Tío Pepe Fino sherry and Cointreau, but wrote that the Fernet and Coke "falls flat". Following the restaurant's reopening following alterations in its menu, Fabien Loo, also of Time Out, wrote a "Recommended" review of the establishment in October 2020. He praised the tonnarelli vongole, the pompano piccata, the cacio e pepe, the mushroom agrodolce and the burrata dishes. Nurzatiman of Yahoo! Lifestyle praised the "bold, daring, and quite possibly demandingly foolhardy" mushroom agrodolce, the burrata, the tonnarelli vongole, the pompano piccata and the peppered short rib dishes. However, he wrote that while the Octopus dish featured an octopus that had been "treated well", the accompanying pepperoncini Rosso vinegar and basil oil "could use a little cheerleading on the side to uplift the flavour of this fine octopus much heroically."

In November 2020, it received a positive review from Azimin Saini of Lifestyle Asia who wrote: "Here, flavour is delivered in spades not just on white plates and bowls but in the glasses within which a block of ice floats on amber drams." It received a positive review Tanisha Khanna of AsiaOne in September 2022, who wrote that the establishment had come to be known for "scrumptious pastas and its strategic spot offering sweeping views of the Marina Bay Sands". Khanna recommended the Classic Negroni, Sakura Bellini and the Sgorppino for drinks, as well as the Burratam the Little Gem Lettuce, The Summer Tomato Foccacia, the Mafaldine Cacio E Pepe and the Red Grouper.

Other restaurants

The eatery Nueva Cuba opened at the building in 2010. It served Cuban cuisine, which included carzuela de tortilla, zarzuela and portobello mushroom fritters. At its opening, it was the second Cuban restaurant in Singapore, behind the Cuba Libre restaurant in Clarke Quay, which was run by the same people behind Nueva Cuba. According to Wong Ah Yoke of The Straits Times, it "looks more like a bar with a few small tables indoors and another small cluster of tables outside by the water." He wrote a mixed review of the restaurant, stating: "Nueva Cuba did not exactly transport me to the Caribbean island, but it does provide a nice escape from the hustle of the surrounding Central Business District with decent food at equally decent prices." Wong praised the "heavenly" gambas y queso tostada, the cremosa de setas, the cod fillet with romesco and the pollo al mojito. However, he wrote that the zarzuela stew was "spoilt by the fact that frozen mussels were used" and that the braised oxtail in vegetable stew "tasted like standard stew – and it was not bad except that the meat was not tender enough." He gave it a score of 3/5 for food, 3/5 for service and 3/5 for ambience.

Oyster Bar, a 50-seat restaurant serving an "assortment of fresh and baked oysters, and oyster shooters", housed in a stand-alone glass building next to the water, was opened in July 2010 for $500,000. It was run by couple Alexis Nicosia and Cindy Chng, with the former also serving as the establishments chef. Tan Hsueh Yun of The Straits Times wrote a generally positive review of the restaurant. Tan praised the Bisque & Grand Marnier, the Yuzu & Wasabi and the Double Gin Nutmeg oyster shooters sets, as well as the Champagne Sabayon and Casino baked oysters. However, she also wrote that the Fines de Clair baked oysters were "not as plump and sweet" as she had hoped and that the beef of the Wagyu Oyster Burger "lacked the unctuousness of good wagyu." The Straits Times reported that, by August, business at the restaurant had been "much better" than the couple initialy expecting, with the restaurant selling around 200 to 300 oysters a day. However, the couple claimed to have been struggling with "finding good local staff". The restaurant had two chefs, a cook and a mixologist by then.

Procacci, a restaurant serving Italian cuisine, opened in July 2010. It is modelled after the truffle panini shop of the same name in Florence, Italy, which was then managed by the winemaking Antinori family. The Antinoris, seeking to "increase awareness of its wines here, Antinori gave the green light to local entrepreneur Y C Huang and his partners to open a restaurant in Customs House using its name and to stock only its wines." However, in an August 2010 review for The Business Times, Jaime Ee wrote that a "lot of work is needed" with regard to the menu, which was "functional" without the "kind of oomph or inventiveness that sets it apart from your average Italian restaurant." Ee also wrote that the cooking "appears effortless – as in the lack of effort to impart some kind of flavour or authenticity to the dishes." However, she also wrote that it had a "great view of Marina Bay" and a "trendy location". She concluded the review by writing that while the restaurant had "lot going for it", it had to "go beyond the brand name and establish itself as a restaurant with substance." Ee gave the restaurant a "fair" rating of 6/10.

L'Entrecôte Customs House, an outlet of the L'Entrecôte restaurant chain serving French cuisine, opened at the building in May 2019. Dudi Aureus of Tatler Asia called it the "new after-work hangout spot in the CBD for its sweeping Marina Bay views, wide selection of innovative bar bites (some are exclusive to this outlet) and tipples." Dishes include escargot cooked in garlic, parsley, butter and onion, wagyu beef cubes accompanied by L'Entrecôte sauce and deep-fried golden-brown frog legs with garlic aioli. It features outdoor seating. The building also houses the Indonesian grill restaurant Nusa.