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Bread in Spain

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Sobado bread, also called candeal or bregado
Migas, a traditional Spanish dish of humble origins, whose main ingredient is "old" bread (stale bread)

Bread in Spain has an ancient tradition with various preparations in each region. Wheat is by far the most cultivated cereal, as it withstands the dry climate of the interior of the country. Since time immemorial, bread (pan in Spanish)[n. 1] is a staple food that accompanies all daily meals, all year round. In fact, the Iberian Peninsula is one of the European regions with the greatest diversity of breads.[1][2] The Spanish gourmet José Carlos Capel [es] estimated a total of 315 varieties of bread in Spain,[3] although the barra (baguette-shape bread) is, by far, the most consumed variety of bread (75%).[4] In addition to food, bread in Spain has a historical, cultural, religious and mythological function.

One of the hallmarks of the Spanish bakery is the candeal, bregado or sobado bread, which has a long tradition in Castile, Andalusia, Leon, Extremadura, Araba, Valencia or Zaragoza.[5] This bread is made with Candeal wheat [es] flour, a variety of durum wheat endemic to Iberia and the Balearic Islands (where it is called xeixa) and which is highly appreciated. The dough for this bread is obtained by arduously squeezing the dough with a rolling pin or with a two-cylinder machine called bregadora [es]. Similar «hard dough» breads can be also found in Portugal (pão sovado, regueifa),[6] France (pain brié), Italy (coppia ferrarese, barilino, coccoi a pitzus, pane gramolato) and Croatia (ragusano or u pani ri casa).

Unlike the brown breads made in northern Europe, white flour is preferred in the South, because it provides a more spongy and light texture –but less nutritional value. This is also related to the universal prominence of wheat in Spanish bakery, while from the Pyrenees to the north it is more common to mix it with rye flour and other grains (like the French méteil), as well as the use of wholemeal flour. Few cereals grow as well in Spain as wheat, which is the agricultural product with the most dedicated land in the country.[7] Wholemeal breads have only come to have some relevance in the recent history of the country, when a renewed interest in healthy diet is introduced. On the other hand, throughout its history (and especially during the Franco regime), rye, barley, buckwheat, or whole wheat breads were considered "food for the poor".

In addition, bread is an ingredient in a wide variety of Spanish recipes: ajoblanco, preñaos, migas, pa amb tomàquet, salmorejo, torrijas, etc. Traditional Spanish cuisine arose from the need to make the most of the few ingredients that have shaped the diet of the peninsula for centuries and centuries. Bread is the main of them, and especially in the inland.[8] Historically, the Spanish have been renowned consumers of bread.[9] However, the country has experienced an alarming decline in bread consumption, and reorientation of the Spanish bakery is noticeable. People eat less and worse bread, at the same time that the baker's job is becoming mechanized and tradition is simplifying.

History

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Bread was produced in the Iberian Peninsula before the arrival of the Romans. The Iberian people cultivated wheat, and possibly other cereals such as einkorn wheat and barley.[10][11] They even mastered the fermentation process.[12] The institution of bakeries as an establishment for sale to the public is due to the Greeks,[13] and the Romans introduced significant improvements in structures such as the mill or the oven. Numerous signa pistoris [es] ('bread stamps') have been found throughout Hispania, such as in Córdoba or Ibiza.[14] These were used by the Romans to "mark" bread for religious reasons. It is interesting to see that the pieces found in central Europe allude more to the imperial cult, while in Iberia more to Roman mythology.[15]

In Rome, the fermentation was done by reusing dough that was left over from previous days (sourdough), however in Hispania, the natives had the custom of using beer foam as yeast, which resulted in lighter and fluffier breads.[16] The writer and soldier Pliny the Elder, a Roman originally from northern Italy, served as a procurator for a while in the Iberian Peninsula and commented: "Hispania's bread is very light and very pleasing to the palate even for a refined man from Rome".[17]

During the Andalusian period (from the 8th century to the 15th century), the cultivation of cereals was the dominant job and bread was a basic and daily food. In Al-Andalus, white bread was made from wheat flour, but also a coarser and cheaper bread that contained bran, called “red bread”.[18] On the Christian side of the border, the baker's trade was established as a profession, becoming a relevant, prominent and respected figure in medieval society. To regulate the market, bakers began to form unions from the twelfth century. In Spain, especially in the Mediterranean area, there have been bakers' guilds for more than 750 years. For example, the Guild of Bakers of Barcelona (Gremio de Panaderos de Barcelona [es]) is cited in a document from 1395.[19]

The Spanish conquest of America led to the importation of a new cereal with which flour could be made: maize. Maize has a presence in the bakery of "Green Spain" (northern Spain). An example of bread with maize flour is boroña, brona or broa, a typical bread from Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country.

List of Spanish breads

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Pan de cruz
Pan gallego
Telera from Córdoba
Pan de Manganeses (hogazas)

This is a limited list of the most popular breads in Spain.

Bread with toppings:

Bread with fillings:

  • Hornazo
  • Galician empanada
  • Bollo preñao

Sweet breads:

Bread and culture

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Procession of San León in Benamaurel (Andalusia), where the neighbors prepare and offer bagels to the saint

In addition to being a basic food, bread has a ritual function and a religious burden in Spain. In Christianity, bread embodies the body of Christ, and together with wine, which is his blood, make up the Eucharist in all Christian churches. Even before the appearance of the faith of Christ, the pagan traditions (Celtic, Greco-Roman, Phoenician, etc.) already considered bread as a symbol of fertility.[20] For example, in Ancient Rome, pieces of bread were offered to Ceres, goddess of crops and fertility. In fact, Christianity absorbed many of these pagan traditions and also of Judaism, in which bread has a leading position.

Bread and fertility rites

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The traditional hornazo and mona includes boiled eggs, although today the monas with chocolate eggs, or directly without eggs, are more typical. This is a tradition of pagan origin.

The egg is another food that many ancient cultures have associated with fertility, so it is not surprising that many ancestral traditions have survived to this day that, during spring (a season also associated with birth and life), embed whole eggs into the bread dough. This is the case of the Catalan monas, the Basque opillas or the Castilian San Marcos hornazo.[21] The egg is tied to the bread with two intertwined strips of dough in the shape of a cross, definitively linking a pagan custom to Christian mythology.

Bread and death rites

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Bread has been present in funeral rites since ancient times. As a votive or mortuary offering, bread has embodied death in most cultures of the Mediterranean and beyond. Formerly, it was common at funerals to distribute loaves. According to the anthropologist Joan Amades "at funerals it was customary to offer rolls that the attendees gave to the priest, along with a candle".[22] When a loved one died, "there should be bread in the house to facilitate the transit".[22]

In Spain, when the dead visit their families on All Souls' Day (November 2), they are offered a votive bread called pan de ánimas ('bread of souls'), although nowadays panets and panellets are more typical.[23][24] This tradition can be found in Mexico under the name "bread of the dead". In addition, in some Catalan towns, at the meal after the funeral, a bread with a cross in the middle is served, called pa de memòria, which was dedicated with a prayer to the deceased.[22] The breads of the dead can be found throughout Spain and the Mediterranean, such as the pan de finado from the Canary Islands, the "saint's bones" from Madrid, or the anthropomorphic breads from Sicily and the south of the Italian peninsula.[25]

Bread on the table

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In Spain, Christian families bless bread before beginning a meal, thanking God for "giving us our daily bread" while a cross is marked on the crust. Capel adds: "The first slice was not distributed, a gesture that would have meant the annulment of the rite."[26] The good Christian gave the first piece of the loaf to the guests. The relevance of bread at the Christian table is reflected in the marks that are stamped on the loaves: Viva el Pan Bendito ("Long live the blessed bread"), Soy el Principal de la mesa ("I am the main one at the table"), Mírame atento, Soy tu alimento ("Look at me attentively, I am your food"), etc.[27] Wasting or throwing away a piece of bread was equivalent to despising or rejecting the food of the Lord.[n. 2]

Cultural loss and recovery policy

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Undoubtedly, bread has been the most consumed food in Spain throughout its history. Its prominence was overshadowed by the abundance of food that came to the country in the 1960s and 1970s, when agriculture was mechanized and the country opened up to the world. The reduction of its consumption has led to a loss of its quality, tradition and culture.[28] According to culinary researcher Ibán Yarza [es] –who toured the 50 provinces collecting information on the country's baking tradition–: "Bread has lost prestige or, better said, it has been demystified, in the sense that it was sacred because it was what was eaten the most ( ...) Never has less bread been eaten than now."[29] It goes hand in hand with a drastic reduction of the Mediterranean culinary tradition, just like in neighboring Italy.[n. 3]

Starting in the 2010s, a movement of renewed interest in traditional Spanish bakery began to take shape in the country. Although recent, this movement has already given rise to names such as Beatriz Echeverría from El Horno de Babette in Madrid, which has one of the YouTube channels on baking with the most subscriptions (in Spanish) and is author of the book The Elements of Bread, or also the Turris bakery chain in Barcelona, run by Xavier Barriga, author of several bakery books. Since 2017, Panàtics has organized the "Route through Spain of good bread" (Ruta del Buen Pan), an annual selection of one hundred artisan bakeries from all over Spain.[30] Spanish law first approved a standard for bread quality on April 26, 2019 (Royal Decree 308/2919).[31][32]

Influence of the Spanish bakery in the world

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In Europe

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The candeal, bregado or sobado bread, originating in what is now Castile and León, would be taken to the south of the peninsula and to Portugal, where it has also been practiced since time immemorial; in Portuguese it is known as pão sovado in the north or pão de calo in the south.[33]

The sobado bread was given to the soldiers because it has the exceptional characteristic of lasting for days, even weeks. It arrived in French Normandy through the Kingdom of Navarre in the times of Charles II 'the Bad', married to Joan of France. It gave rise to the so-called Norman pain brié (also, pain de chapître, 'town hall bread'), very similar to candeal.[34] Later the Spanish Tercios brought sobado bread to France, Italy, Flanders and other parts of Europe. The Italian bakers adopted Spanish sobado bread and created its own delicacies, such as coppia ferrarese. Even in the Maghreb there is a bread derived from candeal called pain espagnole. Instead, what in Italy is called pan di Spagna ("Spanish bread") refers to the sponge cake, which according to Italian tradition was made by a baker in Spain.[35] The name has passed into Greek as pantespani (Παντεσπάνι) and into Turkish as pandispanya.

In the Americas

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Torrijas are consumed at Easter throughout the Hispanosphere.

The Spanish bakery is the basis of the current Hispanic-American bakery, which later adapted the recipes to its climate, its ingredients and its own tastes.

Wheat was one of the first foods to be imported into the New World,[36] and the culture of bread was one of the first that the Spanish colonization introduced into the diet of the natives, despite the fact that this food and nutritional niche was already occupied by sweetcorn.[37][38] The massive cultivation of wheat in America also had a political reason, since the Spanish controlled in one way or another the production, distribution and sale of the product.[37] The rejection of its cultivation was manifested as a form of resistance against Spanish rule. In Mesoamerica, for example, Antonio de Mendoza denounced that the indigenous people ignored the cultivation of wheat, among other things because they used the same techniques as for planting corn (with a coa) and wheat did not prosper.[39] Even so, the culture of bread ended up adapting to America hand in hand with Evangelization.

Today the Hispanic bakery is spread throughout the Americas, and bread is a common food, with different variants depending on the country and region. For example:

  • Spanish torrijas are also eaten in Argentina, Chile, Colombia and Costa Rica among other countries.
  • In Mexico, a bread called telera has its remote origin in the telera that the Andalusian workers ate.[40] Also in the Dominican Republic there is a telera, which is typical of Christmas.
  • In Venezuela, bread is made with a pre-ferment called talvina (similar to sourdough, but more liquid). This comes from the Spanish talvinas [es], liquid masses that are cooked and consumed in different ways depending on the region. Ultimately, the term comes from the Andalusian Arabic التلبينة talbina (pronounced talbeenah), a liquid mass of milk and barley. It is not very different from the Roman puls. The pan andino or pan camaleón (Andean or chameleon bread), made with talvina, has a great reputation in Venezuela.
  • Bread of the dead is a bread that was formerly offered to deceased loved ones during All Saints' Day. This tradition is recorded in several places in Europe, and in Spain it is known as pan de ánimas. The Spanish settlers spread the custom in America, and today pan de muerto is one of the most typical preparations of the Mexican Day of the Dead. In the Andes of Bolivia and Peru, All Saints is known as "the Festival of Bread" because they are produced in large quantities, in the form of a human (t'antawawa), a dove (urpis), a snake, a fish, or other animals.
  • In Colombia, almojábana is a very popular cheese bun throughout the country, which is served for breakfast or snack. It comes from the Spanish almojábana (still prepared in Aragón, Valencia, Murcia and the Canary Islands). Its name comes from the Arabic المُجَبَّنة al-mujabbana, which means cheese bread. Most Spanish recipes lost the cheese in the dough, but curiously it is maintained in American recipes: from Colombia, and also from Panama, Puerto Rico and Costa Rica.
  • The Spanish bread known as mollete is so called because of the sponginess of its crumb (muelle means "soft, spongy"), which is achieved thanks to a very hydrated dough. Today molletes can be found in very different variants in Bolivia, Cuba, Mexico, Honduras or Guatemala.
  • The acemita was a bread that was eaten in Spain and was considered of low quality because it was prepared with wheat bran (sometimes, if possible, it was mixed with a little white flour)[41] The mixture itself was called acemite [es], and with it the "poor man's bread" was made. Due to seseo, the term evolved to semita, which is what a wide variety of typical breads from different states of Mexico, as well as Honduras, Argentina or El Salvador are called.
  • Another low-quality bread is pan bazo (from pan basso, or "low-class bread"), which has several current derivatives in both Spain and Mexico.
  • American pan sobao comes from Spanish sobao or sobado bread.
  • The Mexican bolillo is considered a derivative of the Sevillian bollo.

In the Philippines

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Pan de suelo (1939 Kamuning Bakery)

The technology of baking bread in a kiln or oven (horno) was brought to the Philippines by the Spanish in the 16th century. In 1625, a royal bakery was established in Intramuros. Aside from providing bread for Spanish settlers, it was also necessary for the production of the pan nava, a type of very hard long-lasting bread eaten by the crews of the Manila galleons; as well as sacramental bread for Spanish missionaries. They originally had a monopoly on bread production due to the necessity of importing wheat flour from China and Japan. But baking eventually spread to private households among the local aristocracy (the principalia) and finally to bakeries for the common people.[42][43][44][45]

Though nativized over the centuries, a few staple breads of the Philippines have Spanish origins. These include the pan de sal (originally derived from a local Spanish-Filipino baguette-like bread called the pan de suelo), the ensaymada, and the pan de monja. Other breads have Spanish names but have local origins with no counterparts in Spain, like the pan de coco, the pan de regla, pan de caña, and the Spanish bread (also called "señorita bread").[45][43][46]

See also

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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Breads of Spain.

Notes

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  1. ^ Pan in Spanish and Galician; Pa in Catalan; Ogia in Basque. Hogaza for loaf, and panecillo for a roll.
  2. ^ The sacrilege of bread was common to all Christianity in medieval times. See for example the German Brotfrevel [de].
  3. ^ "(...) [In] the case of Italy, from the end of the 19th century to the middle of the 20th century, the food consumption of wine, olive oil, and wheat (and derivatives) has been the only which has remained steady, unlike foods that have experienced a sharp rise, such as meat, fresh fruit, sugar or coffee, or others that have experienced a decline, such as legumes or maize. In the same vein, Gonález Turmo states that Spain, until the 1960s, maintained a diet very close to the Mediterranean model, while today it is Greece and Portugal that are closest to the prototype" (Medina 1996, p. 21).

References

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  1. ^ Gil Hernández, Ángel (2015-02-02). Libro Blanco del Pan (in Spanish). Ed. Médica Panamericana. pp. 53. ISBN 978-84-9835-505-5.
  2. ^ Fiset, Josée; Blais, Éric (2007). El libro del pan (in Spanish). Éric Blais. Barcelona: Bon Vivant. p. 12. ISBN 978-84-96054-34-9. OCLC 433656204.
  3. ^ Capel, José Carlos (1991). El pan: elaboración, formas, mitos, ritos y gastronomía, seguido de un glosario de los panes de España (in Spanish). Barcelona: Montserrat Mateu Taller Editorial. ISBN 84-88158-00-9. OCLC 29999024.
  4. ^ Resa, Sylvia (2012). "El pan apuesta por la innovación" (PDF). Distribución y Consumo (123): 17. ISSN 1132-0176 – via Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación.
  5. ^ Yarza, Ibán (2019). 100 recetas de pan de pueblo: ideas y trucos para hacer en casa panes de toda España (in Spanish). Barcelona: Editorial Grijalbo. p. 79. ISBN 978-84-17338-64-0. OCLC 1128195689.
  6. ^ Fernandes, Daniel (2001). "Pão sovado". Produtos Tradicionais Portugueses (in Portuguese). Retrieved 2022-02-03.
  7. ^ "Cereales". Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food (in Spanish). Retrieved 2023-10-30.
  8. ^ Ayuso, Miguel (2021-06-15). "La cocina en la España vaciada (o cómo los romanos, la trashumancia y el hambre configuraron el recetario del interior de la península)". Directo al Paladar (in Spanish). Retrieved 2022-02-03.
  9. ^ Contreras, Jesús (1996). "Estadístiques i pautes de consum: Sabem realment què mengem?". L'Alimentació mediterrània (in Catalan). Vv.Aa. (1 ed.). Barcelona: Edicions Proa. p. 133. ISBN 84-8256-170-7. OCLC 35305279.
  10. ^ "Inicios del pan en España". La Panadera (in Spanish). 2018-12-16. Retrieved 2022-02-03.
  11. ^ Monreal, Ànnia (2015). De pans per Catalunya (in Catalan). Barcelona: Sd-Edicions. p. 19. ISBN 978-84-943073-7-9. OCLC 913153046.
  12. ^ Capel 1994, p. 93.
  13. ^ Capel 1994, p. 42.
  14. ^ Gijón Gabriel, Mª Eulalia; Bustamante Álvarez, Macarena (2010-03-03). "Los sellos romanos de panadero: una aproximación a su estudio a partir de los depositados en el Museo Nacional de Arte Romano (Mérida)" (PDF). Huelva en su historia. 13. Universidad de Huelva. ISSN 1136-6877.
  15. ^ Capel 1994, p. 22.
  16. ^ Capel 1994, p. 45.
  17. ^ Garay, Gaby (2020-07-29). "El origen del pan y su evolución". Gaby Garay (in Spanish). Retrieved 2022-02-03.
  18. ^ Fiset & Blais 2007, p. 11.
  19. ^ Capel 1994, p. 14.
  20. ^ Capel 1994, p. 147.
  21. ^ Capel 1994, p. 169-171.
  22. ^ a b c Monreal 2015, p. 208.
  23. ^ "Pa d'ànimes". Great Catalan Encyclopedia (in Catalan). Retrieved 2022-02-21.
  24. ^ Singla, Laia (2019-10-30). "La Nit d'Ànimes, la nit que els difunts ens visiten". Surtdecasa.cat (in Catalan). Retrieved 2022-02-21.
  25. ^ Buttitta, Ignazio E. (2012-11-12). "Los hombres de pan". Revista Mètode (in European Spanish). Retrieved 2022-02-21.
  26. ^ Capel 1994, p. 159.
  27. ^ Platón, Antonio Leonardo (1986). "Sellos de pan: [exposición, Casa de Cultura de Zamora, del 25 de junio al 27 de julio de 1986]". Casa de la Cultura de Zamora, Biblioteca Digital de Castilla y León (in Spanish). 17.
  28. ^ "Pan y Cultura". Alimentación y Cultura, University of Córdoba (Spain). Retrieved 2022-02-21.
  29. ^ Ingelmo, Pedro (2019-11-15). "Ibán Yarza, periodista y experto en pan: El pan ya no es el pan nuestro de cada día, se ha desacralizado" [Ibán Yarza, journalist and bread expert: Bread is no longer our daily bread, it has been desecrated]. Diario de Sevilla (in European Spanish). Retrieved 2022-02-21.
  30. ^ "La Ruta del Buen Pan". Panatics.com. Retrieved 2022-04-29.
  31. ^ Ministerio de la Presidencia, Relaciones con las Cortes e Igualdad (2019-05-11), Real Decreto 308/2019, de 26 de abril, por el que se aprueba la norma de calidad para el pan, pp. 50168–50175, retrieved 2022-04-29
  32. ^ Pérez Lozano, Julia (2019-05-27). "La ley del pan ¿A quién beneficia la nueva normativa?". Gastroactitud (in Spanish). Retrieved 2022-04-29.
  33. ^ Fernandes, Daniel. "Produtos Tradicionais Portugueses". Produtos Tradicionais Portugueses (in Portuguese). Retrieved 2022-02-21.
  34. ^ Rose, Duroux (2019-11-25). Franceses que emigraron a España, Auverneses en la Castilla del siglo XIX. Editorial UNED. pp. 65. ISBN 978-84-362-7603-9.
  35. ^ "La storia del pan di Spagna". La Cucina Italiana (in Italian). 2016-08-30. Retrieved 2022-02-21.
  36. ^ Satizábal Villegas, Andrés Eduardo (2004). "Molinos de trigo en la Nueva Granada : siglos XVII-XVIII : arquitectura industrial, patrimonio cultural inmueble". Conquista y comida: consecuencias del encuentro de dos mundos (in Spanish). Universidad Nacional de Colombia. pp. 267. ISBN 978-970-32-0852-4.
  37. ^ a b Capparelli, Aylen; Chevalier, Alexandre; Piqué, Raquel (2009). La alimentación en la América precolombina y colonial: una aproximación interdisciplinaria (in Spanish). Editorial CSIC - CSIC Press. ISBN 978-84-00-08792-0.
  38. ^ Lacoste, Pablo; Castro, Amalia; Mujica, Fernando; Adunka, Michelle Lacoste (2017). "La introducción del trigo en Chile y su expansión". Patrimonio y desarrollo territorial: Productos típicos alimentarios y artesanales de la Región de O'Higgins. Identidad, historia y potencial de desarrollo (in Spanish). ISBN 978-95-63933-69-7.
  39. ^ Vizcarra, Ivonne; Bordi, Ivonne Vizcarra (2002). "Trigo, pan y molinos". Entre el taco mazahua y el mundo : la comida de las relaciones de poder, resistencia e identidades (in Spanish). Universidad Autónoma del Estado de México, Instituto Literario. pp. 71. ISBN 978-968-835-755-2.
  40. ^ Muñoz Zurita, R. "Telera, Diccionario enciclopédico de la Gastronomía Mexicana". Larousse Cocina (in Spanish). Retrieved 2022-02-21.
  41. ^ Barcia, Roque; De Echegaray, Eduardo (1887). Diccionario general etimológico de la lengua española (in Spanish). Vol. 1. J. M. Faquineto. pp. 53.
  42. ^ Estrella, Serna (2018-10-27). "The secret history behind Pan de Regla and other panaderia eats". Pepper.ph. Archived from the original on 2022-02-21. Retrieved 2022-02-21.
  43. ^ a b Sta. Maria, Felice Prudente (22 May 2019). "Origins of Our Daily Breads". Positively Filipino. Retrieved 7 November 2022.
  44. ^ Orillos, Jenny B. (10 May 2017). "The Comprehensive Field Guide to Filipino Bread". Esquire. Retrieved 7 November 2022.
  45. ^ a b Jimenez-David, Rina (26 April 2015). "Breads of our life". The Philippine Daily Inquirer. Retrieved 7 November 2022.
  46. ^ "Filipino Bread Ultimate Guide: Everything You Need to Know". Ludy's Kitchen. 3 July 2020. Retrieved 7 November 2022.

Bibliography

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