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Artimes Farshad Yeganeh

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Artimes FarshadYeganeh
آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه
Personal information
Born (1981-05-27) May 27, 1981 (age 43)
Tehran, Iran
EducationBachelor of Physical Education/Master Degree in Physical Education Management
Occupation(s)Rock climber, Head Coach of Iranian climbing Team for 9 years, Asian Chief Route Setter and IFSC Chief route setter
Height177 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight61 kg (134 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Medal record
National Championships
Gold medal – first place 2006 Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2002 Lead
Groups Cup
Silver medal – second place 2000 National Competition
Fajr Championships
Silver medal – second place 2006 National Competition
Bronze medal – third place 2002 International Competition
Bronze medal – third place 1998 National Competition
Tehran Province Championships
Gold medal – first place 2001 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2002 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2003 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2004 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2006 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2007 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2008 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2009 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2005 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2010 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2012 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2013 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2013 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2014 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2021 Lead
Tehran Province League
Gold medal – first place 2010 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2011 Lead
Updated on 11 Dec 2014

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has specialized in both competition climbing (lead and bouldering), and outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. He has been climbing for 30 years as a professional climber, a member of the Iranian National climbing team for many years, as a route setter in many national, continental, and world cups and championships, and Head Coach of the Iranian National climbing team for 6 years.[1][2][3][4] He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.

Biography

[edit]

Artimes was elected as one of the five members among competition climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league's statute.[clarification needed][5][6][7] Then, he participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club's representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France.[8][9] As he truly is well known for lead climbing, he also solo climbed two routes.[10] Currently, Artimes and Amin Abbasi are the only Iranian Continental route setters.[11] He became IFSC JUNIOR Route setter in 2019 and Asian Chief Route Setter. He also became International Route Setter in 2020.He is only Iranian International Route Setter.

Positions

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Here are some positions he has held:

  • 2007 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2008 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2009 – Tehran League founding member
  • 2009 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2010 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2011 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2013 – Tehran Rebolting Committee
  • 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
  • 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
  • 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2017 — Member of Sport Department ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council
  • 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
  • 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
  • 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
  • 2020 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2020 — IFSC International Route Setter – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
  • 2021 — Member of Route Setting Commission of IFSC – International Sport Climbing Federation 2021
  • 2021 — Member of Route Setting Commission of ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council.
  • 2021 — Chair of Coaching Commission Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation

Coaching

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Coaching certificates

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  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
  • Rock Climbing Federation of Germany – Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1

Coaching experience

[edit]
Gym Time
Emam Ali University 2003-2006
Army 2005-2006
Davoudi 2005-2008
Tarbiat Modarres University Climbing Gym 2005-current
ArmenianClimbing Gym Sipan 2012-current
Payam Climbing Gym 2015-current
Raspina Welness Climbing Gym 2016-2018
MSFI Sport Climbing National Team Head Coach 2014-current

Route setting Certificate and Experiences

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Route Setting certificates

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  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – National Sport Climbing Route Setter
  • ACC of IFSC – Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter
  • Member of Sport Department ACC of IFSC  – Asian Continental Council 2017
  • IFSC Junior  – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
  • IFSC International Route Setter  – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
  • Member of Route Setting Commission of IFSC  – International Sport Climbing Federation 2021
  • Member of Route Setting Commission of ACC of IFSC  – Asian Continental Council 2021
  • IFSC International Chief Route Setter  – International Sport Climbing Route Setter 2023

Route setting experiences

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  • 2005 - Chief Route Setter National Championships
  • 2006 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
  • 2007 – Chief Route Setter–Junior and Youth National Championship
  • 2007 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
  • 2009 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship
  • 2011 – Route Setter–IFSC Master Cup International Cup
  • 2013 – Route Setter– IFSC Asian Championships Tehran, Iran
  • 2015 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Malaysia
  • 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Tehran, Iran
  • 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Munich, Germany
  • 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Tehran, Iran
  • 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championship Innsbruck, Austria
  • 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Cup Wanxianchan, China
  • 2018 – Route Setter – IFSC FISU World University Championships Slovakia
  • 2018 – Route Setter – 18th Asian Games Palembang, Indonesia
  • 2018 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Totori, Japan
  • 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup bouldering Munich, Germany
  • 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC China open Guanzhuo, China
  • 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Combined Chongqing, China
  • 2019 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Bengaloru, India
  • 2020 – Route Setter – IFSC European Championships Moscow, Russia
  • 2021 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championships Voronezh, Russia
  • 2022 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Innsbruck, Austria
  • 2022 – Route Setter – IFSC European Championships Munich, Germany
  • 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF National Championships Tehran, Iran
  • 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championships Seoul, Korea
  • 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF Training Camp Tehran, Iran
  • 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian K Championships Jamshedpur, India
  • 2023 – Chief Route Setter – Chinese Team Training Camp Beijing, China
  • 2023 – Chief Route Setter – Asian Games Test Event Hangzhou, China
  • 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF National Championships Tehran, Iran
  • 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championships Seoul, Korea
  • 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF Training Camp Tehran, Iran
  • 2023 – Chief Route Setter – 19th Asian Games Hangzhou, China
  • 2024- Head Route Setter – West Asia Cup Riakh, Saudi Arabia
  • 2024- Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Briancon, France
  • 2024- Head Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championshops Guiyang, China

[11]

Judging

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Judging certificates

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  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing National Judge

Iran National Team memberships

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  • Junior National Team
    • 1999
  • National Team
    • 2003
    • 2004 – China, Asian Championship
    • 2005 – Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
    • 2006 – Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
    • 2007 – Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
    • 2009 – France, Bouldering Worldcup

[1][2][3][4][8][9][12][13][14][15][16][17][18][19]

Ranks and medals

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IFSC Climbing Worldcup

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2009 2007
Bouldering 29
Lead 26

[1][2][3][4][8][9][14][17][20][21][22]

UIAA Asian Championships

[edit]
2005 2006
Lead 19 10

[1][2][3][12][13][15][16][23]

Fajr championships

[edit]
1998 2002 2006
Lead 3 3 2

[24]

National championships

[edit]
2002 2006
Lead 3 1

Tehran Province championships

[edit]
2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2012 2013 2014
Lead 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2
Lead 2

[5]

Tehran Province League

[edit]
2010 2011
Lead 1 1

[25]

Groups Cup

[edit]
2000
Lead 2

Solo

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  • Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, first ascent
  • Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, first ascent

Climbing

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Here are some of his Tops & First Ascent climbs:

Year Name Grade
1999 Mashallah 7c
1999 Alen 7b+/7c
2000 Iran Gate (SA) 8a+
2001 Safeh 8a
2002 Ghoul 7c+
2002 Nemat 7c
2002 Speed(FA) 7c
2002 Ashiane(FA) 8a
2003 Iran(FA) 7c+
2004 Iran Swiss 8a
2005 Khashol(FA) 7c
2006 Khoke chamosh(FA) 7c
2007 Ashianedoe(FA) 8a
2009 Solo(FA) 8a+
2010 Tehran Guy(FA) 7c
2011 Father & Son(FA) 7b+
2018 Marmolak 8a+
2018 Bargrizan 8a
2018 Ghij 7c+
2018 Shahin(Flash) 7c
2018 Push your must(FA) 7c+
2018 Pishadul(FA) 7c+
2019 Vampire(FA) 8b+
2019 Grezzly (FA) 8b
2019 Colony(FA) 8b+
2020 Sourkhpoost(Indian) 8a+
2020 Gladiator 8b+
2020 Merry Jain (FA) 8a+,8b
2020 Karimz(SA) 8b+
2021 Blue(TA) 8a

Roc Trips

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  • Petzl 2008
  • Petzl 2009
  • Petzl 2014

[26]

Filmography

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Route

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Here are some of the routes he bolted:

Year Name Grade
2006 Khashol 7c
2006 Pichol project
2007 Khoke chamosh 7c+
2009 O+ 7c
2008 Solo 8b
2008 Toxic 8a+
2009 Emperor project ?
2010 Tehran guys 8a
2011 Gladiator 8b+/8c
2011 Father and Son 7c
2013 Vampire 8b+
2014 Ati 7b+
2018 Colony 8b+
2018 Pishadul 7c+
2019 Surkhpoost (Indian) 8a
2020 Merry Jain 8a+/8b
2020 Kingdom project

References

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  1. ^ a b c d "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  2. ^ a b c d "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 9 December 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  3. ^ a b c d "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  4. ^ a b c "آخرین نتایج مسابقات جهانی تا این لحظه". Binalood. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  5. ^ a b "Saeid Jaryani won the 5th round of Tehran's climbing league". Iran Mountain Zone. 15 December 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  6. ^ "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Iran Mountain Zone. 23 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  7. ^ "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Alpine Cub of Iran. 21 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  8. ^ a b c "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Iran Mountain Zone. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  9. ^ a b c "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Alpine Climb of Iran. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  10. ^ a b "Mashalah {7C}". Mandis Tafreshian. 23 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  11. ^ a b "Officials Resources". IFSC-Climbing.org. 7 August 2014. Retrieved 1 November 2014.
  12. ^ a b "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". Digital Rock. 23 September 2005. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  13. ^ a b "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". Digital Rock. 29 October 2006. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  14. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  15. ^ a b "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". IFSC Climbing. 23 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  16. ^ a b "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  17. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  18. ^ "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006 Startlists". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  20. ^ "Ergebnis: Lead-Weltcup in Qinghai (CHN) - Herren". Ergebnis. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  21. ^ "Re: 20070811青海世界盃最新成績公告". mountaineering.org.tw. 15 August 2007. Archived from the original on 14 October 2015. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  22. ^ "IFSC Lead World Cup – Qinghai(CHN) 2007" (PDF). ffme. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  23. ^ "UIAA Asian Championship Iran 2005". IFSC and DR. 24 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  24. ^ "10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men's category came to its end". Iran Mountain Zone. 24 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  25. ^ "TMU club fixed in its place at the top of Tehran Climbing League". Iran Mountain Zone. 9 July 2011. Archived from the original on 2 October 2012. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  26. ^ "Roctrip im Zillertal: Zwischen Kuhglocken und Ultimate Route". klettern. 29 August 2008. Archived from the original on 19 April 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
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