Andouillette

Not to be confused with Andouille.

Barbecued andouillette from Troyes

Andouillette in aspic from Troyes on sale at a charcuterie in Montmartre, Paris

Andouillette (French pronunciation: [ɑ̃dujɛt]) is a French coarse-grained sausage made from the intestine of pork, pepper, wine, onions, and seasonings.

Andouiette as served by Le Merciére, a traditional bouchon in Lyon

Andouillettes are generally made from the large intestine and are 7–10 cm (2+3⁄4–4 in) in diameter. True andouillettes are rarely seen outside France and have a strong, distinctive odour coming from the colon. Although sometimes repellent to the uninitiated, the scent is prized by its devotees.

When made with the small intestine, they are a plump sausage generally about 25 mm (1 in) in diameter.

Ingredients and history

The original composition of "andouillette sausages" is unknown and there is no record of the andouillette's composition from earlier than the nineteenth century. Nineteenth century dictionaries simply describe them as "small andouilles" (petites andouilles).

During recent decades, a range of differently composed andouillettes are or have been offered by charcuterie producers: the principal differences concern the primary ingredients used, whether pork or veal or a mixture of the two. During the twenty-first century the incorporation of veal, historically the more costly meat ingredient, has been banned in response to concerns over BSE. Some French regions such as Cambrésis (the area surrounding Cambrai) and Lyonnais were still including veal right up to the ban. In other regions, pork has been the only meat in an andouillette for more than a century: that is the case with the andouillette "of Troyes", which is currently the type of andouillette most likely to be encountered in national outlets, such as supermarkets, throughout France. But it seems likely that through the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, local producers were using their own unique recipes according to time and place: the recipes used by local specialised outlets continue to vary considerably.

A number of andouillettes sold as local specialities have nevertheless evolved or indeed disappeared, such as the andouillettes of Villers-Cotterêts which received a mention in the posthumously published Culinary Dictionary (Grand Dictionnaire de cuisine) by Alexandre Dumas.

In his 2021 memoir Taste: My Life Through Food, actor Stanley Tucci wrote humorously about ordering an andouillette with Meryl Streep in a small French restaurant. Neither could stomach the dish. This anecdote unfortunately reinforces a stereotype of offal being "bad" and a food of last resort for the poor. Instead it reflects ignorance and/or the sampling poorly prepared dishes. World class restaurants have been built on the foundation of properly prepared offal. Properly handled and cooked andouillettes (and other offal based dishes) are delicious and important cultural traditions for diners around the world who love meat and eating sustainably.

Serving

Andouillettes can be served either hot or cold, with the former much more common. As with all lower intestine sausages, andouillettes are to some extent an acquired taste. Their smell may offend people unaccustomed to the dish, especially when the tripes are not cooked right away, or thoroughly cleaned. The texture is somewhat rougher than most sausages, as the content is coarsely cut. Properly done, they are braised long enough in water or stock to become very tender, then prepared for plating. The finished andouillettes can be pan-fried (sometimes breaded), it can also be served boiled, barbecued, or grilled, often with vegetables (primarily onions) in a mustard or red wine sauce.

Popularity

It is a common dish all over France but some regions are well known for their own recipes. The most famous ones come from Troyes, Lyon, Cambrai and Chablis and are graded using the AAAAA (5 As) grading system.

Clubs

The Association Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillette Authentique (AAAAA) 'The Friendly Club of Lovers of Authentic Andouillette' is a club formed by several food writers in 1970. It gives certificates ("diplôme") to producers of high-quality andouillettes.

See also

• Lyonnaise cuisine
• List of sausages