1995 K2 disaster
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Date | 13 August 1995 – 15 August 1995 |
---|---|
Location | K2 |
Cause | Storm |
Deaths | 7 |
Non-fatal injuries | 2 |
The 1995 K2 disaster was a mountaineering disaster on K2 in Pakistan, the world's second highest mountain. Six people are reported to have died on August 13, 1995, on K2, largely related to bad weather, especially reported high winds.[1] Scott Fischer was climbing Broad Peak at the time, and suggested that a contributing factor was combination of brutal cold and 160-kilometre-per-hour-plus (100 mph) winds.[1]
Background
[edit]The Mountain
[edit]K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest at 8,849 metres (29,032 ft).[2] It lies in the Karakoram range, often considered to be the most deadly mountain on Earth due to its steepness as compared to other eight-thousanders. Prior to 2021, approximately one person had died on the mountain for every four who reached the summit.[3][4][5]
Expedition Goal
[edit]The primary goal for the climbers was to successfully climb K2 which only few has done at this point. Besides that, several climbers aimed to accomplish significant personal and professional milestones:
Alison Hargreaves
[edit]Alison Hargreaves, a British mountaineer had set out to climb K2 in 1995 as part of grand objective of climbing all three of the world's highest mountains unaided. She had recently climbed Mount Everest without any supplemental oxygen, being the first women to do so alone.[6] Part of the reason she set out this dangerous objective was her financial struggles. Alison and her husband Jim Ballard were heavily in debt. Jim had recently been forced to close his climbing shop in Derbyshire, which had helped financing Alison’s previous expeditions.[7]
Alison, after completing her climb to Everest in May, she flew to Pakistan on June 11, 1995.[8] She then traveled to the Karakoram region, where she joined a group of international climbers at the base camp. Alison then made several attempts to climb K2 throughout the months of June and July but was unsuccessful due to severe weather conditions. Diary of Alison reveals that she started feeling frustrated due to this and her longer stay away from her family. Alison stated in her diary:
I've been here six weeks now and had a few tries...... the weather each time has shut me down - it is obviously not to be. Tom goes back to school soon - I'd like some time with him. They're young and time flies by - I want - I feel I should be with them.[9]
Maybe I've failed here. I've worked hard but somehow it's not come together. Yesterday I was in tears coming down the strip - exhausted, mentally and physically.[9]
It eats away at me - wanting the children and wanting K2 - I feel like I'm being pulled in two. Maybe they'd be happier if mum was around but maybe summiting K2 would help me make a better future for them. Long term having me back safe and sound is surely more important?[6]
Alison then planned another attempt to climb in the month of August despite the fact she was warned by others to not go climbing as in such conditions it will be a suicide.[10]
Spanish Team
[edit]Two spanish clubs Montañeros de Aragon from Zaragoza and Peña Guara Club from Huesca were also planning to climb K2 in the summer of 1995. Their members included Javier Escartín, Lorenzo Ortíz, Lorenzo Ortas Monson, Javier Olivar and several others all of whom had previously climbed nearby peaks like Hidden Peak, Nanga Parbat, etc., and their goal was to successfully climb K2.[11]
American Team
[edit]The American team consisting of Rob Slater, Scott Johnston, Jack Roberts and many others had come to Pakistan in late May with the goal of summiting K2. The team made several attempts to climb K2 but were unable to do so due to bad weather conditions. By August 8, porters were called to leave K2 and the team left, except for Rob Slater who planned to continue the expedition with the New Zealand team.[12]
Rob Slater had no prior experience in climbing peaks more than 7000m and K2 was his first seven-thousander and eight-thousander. Despite the risk, he had prepared for the expedition for almost two years and was hoping to climb the deadly mountain in 1995.[13]
Expedition
[edit]An American team had gained a permit to climb 8,611-metre (28,251 ft) K2 in the summer of 1995. K2 is regarded as a significantly more difficult and dangerous climb than Mount Everest. By August 13, 1995, the remnants of the U.S. team and Alison Hargreaves had joined forces with a New Zealand and Canadian team at Camp 4, around 7,600 metres (24,900 ft) above sea level, and at least 12 hours from the summit. Later that day, having joined with a Spanish team of mountaineers above Camp 4, New Zealander Peter Hillary, son of Everest pioneer Sir Edmund Hillary, decided to turn back, noting that the weather that had been fine for the previous four days appeared to be changing.[14] At 6:45 p.m., in fine conditions, Hargreaves and Spaniard Javier Olivar reached the summit, followed by American Rob Slater, Spaniards Javier Escartín and Lorenzo Ortíz, and New Zealander Bruce Grant. All six died in a violent storm while returning from the summit.[15] Canadian Jeff Lakes, who had turned back below the summit earlier, managed to reach one of the lower camps but died from the effects of exposure.[1][16]
The next day, two Spanish climbers, Pepe Garces and Lorenzo Ortas Monson (not Lorenzo Ortíz, who was killed in the storm), who had survived the storm at Camp 4, were descending the mountain suffering from frostbite and exhaustion. Before reaching Camp 3 they found a bloodstained anorak, a climbing boot, and a harness. They recognized the equipment as belonging to Hargreaves. From Camp 3 they could also see a body in the distance. They did not approach the body, so it was not positively identified, but they had little doubt it was Hargreaves and concluded she had been blown off the mountain during the storm.[10][17] Lorenzo Ortas and Pepe Garces survived but had to be airlifted out, enduring six days without a tent.[10]
List of fatalities
[edit]Name[15] | Nationality | Date | Cause of death |
---|---|---|---|
Alison Hargreaves | ![]() |
13 August 1995 | Precise details unknown; possibly blown off the mountain[10] |
Javier Olivar | ![]() |
Precise details unknown; lost in storm[10] | |
Rob Slater | ![]() | ||
Javier Escartín | ![]() | ||
Lorenzo Ortíz | ![]() | ||
Bruce Grant | ![]() | ||
Jeff Lakes | ![]() |
15 August 1995 | Exposure[1] |
Earlier in the season, Jordi Anglès died from a fall at K2.[18]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ a b c d Roberts, Paul. "Scottish Climber Alison Hargreaves and Six Others Killed on K2". Outside Online. Archived from the original on 2009-12-23.
- ^ "Mount Everest is two feet taller, China and Nepal announce". National Geographic. Archived from the original on 8 December 2020. Retrieved 5 April 2021.
- ^ Stone, Larry (6 September 2018). "Summiting 'Savage Mountain': The harrowing story of these Washington climbers' K2 ascent". The Seattle Times. Retrieved 6 September 2018.
- ^ "AdventureStats – by Explorersweb". adventurestats.com. Archived from the original on 18 November 2015. Retrieved 21 October 2015.
- ^ Clarke, Owen; Potter, Steven (30 May 2024). "Is K2, the "Savage Mountain," Becoming Less Savage?". Climbing. Retrieved 11 July 2024.
- ^ a b "HERSTORY: Alison Hargreaves: Climbing Her Mountain". www.ukclimbing.com. 2023-03-07. Retrieved 2025-02-12.
- ^ "What happened to Alison Hargreaves on K2?". Mark Horrell. 2019-03-06. Retrieved 2025-02-15.
- ^ "How a young life ended on killer mountain". The Independent. Archived from the original on 2024-11-30. Retrieved 2025-02-15.
- ^ a b "Picture of life under canvas". The Herald. 1996-07-29. Retrieved 2025-02-15.
- ^ a b c d e Boggan, Steve (1995-08-19). "K2: the final hours". The Independent. Archived from the original on 2022-05-01. Retrieved 2016-03-06.
- ^ "AAC Publications - The Spanish Version of the K2 Tragedy". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2025-02-12.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, K2, Ascent and Tragedy". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2025-02-12.
- ^ Slater, Rich (2011). Honed: A Twin's Biography of the Unforgettable Rob Slater. Fastpencil, Incorporated. ISBN 978-1-60746-218-7.
- ^ Hillary, Peter. "In the name of the father: The 1995 K2 Expedition". peterhillary.com. Archived from the original on 2010-05-15.
- ^ a b Child, Greg (2004-05-02). "Climbing: The Last Ascent of Alison Hargreaves". Outside Magazine. Retrieved 2021-05-14.
- ^ "Alison Hargreaves". everestnews.com.
- ^ "Extract" (PDF). The Sunday Times. December 3, 1995.
- ^ 8000ers – Fatalities – K2