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Vogue Italia

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Vogue Italia
30th Anniversary (October 1994) cover
Head of Editorial ContentFrancesca Ragazzi
CategoriesFashion
FrequencyMonthly
Circulation100,000 (2017)[1]
PublisherCondé Nast
First issueOctober 1964
CompanyVogue Italia
CountryItaly
Based inMilan
LanguageItalian
Websitevogue.it

Vogue Italia is the Italian edition of Vogue magazine owned by Condé Nast International. In publication since 1964, it has been called the top fashion magazine in the world.[2] The publication is currently edited by Francesca Ragazzi and was previously edited by Franca Sozzani.[3][4]

Background

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Vogue Italia is the Italian edition of the American fashion magazine Vogue. The magazine is published twelve times per year.

Launched in 1950 by Emilia Kuster Rosselli [it] as Novità the magazine was loosely inspired by American fashion publications Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, however it had a distinct Italian style.[5] Rosselli had previously been Editor-in-Chief of Grazia. In 1958 Rosselli died and Lidia Tabacchi became editor of the publication.

It was in March 1962 that Condé Nast acquired the publication,[6] and the October 1964 edition (still titled Novità) with Wilhelmina Cooper (photographed by Irving Penn) on the cover is cited as the launch issue of Vogue Italia.[7][8] However it was not until the November 1965 issue that the publication became Vogue Italia & Novità and then from June 1966 Vogue Italia.[9]

Editors

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Editor Start year End year
Lidia Tabacchi 1964[10] 1966
Franco Sartori 1966[11] 1988
Franca Sozzani 1988[4] 2016
Emanuele Farneti 2017[12] 2021
Head of Editorial Content
Francesca Ragazzi 2021[3] present

Editions

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Since beginning publication in 1964, Vogue Italia has launched numerous other editions of the magazine, which are listed below. However as of today only Vogue Italia is still in publication.

  • Casa Vogue[13]
  • Vanity[14]
  • L'Uomo Vogue (1967–2017, 2018–2021)[15]
  • Vogue Accessory (closed in 2017)[15]
  • Vogue Bambini (closed in 2017)[15]
  • Vogue Bellezza (launched in 1981, later closed)[16]
  • Vogue Gioiello (1980–2015)[15]
  • Vogue Pelle (launched in 1980, later closed)[17]
  • Vogue Speciale
  • Vogue Sposa (closed in 2017)[15]

History

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1966–1988: The Franco Sartori Years

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In 1966, Franco Sartori was appointed editor-in-chief and the magazine changed the name from Vogue Italia & Novità to Vogue Italia. The first issue with the new name was published in June 1966.[9] Also during this time Consuelo Crespi served as the magazines 'Roman editor'. Sartori held the position of editor for 22 years until 1988. During his leadership Vogue Italia was augmented by a string of sister publications, including L'Uomo Vogue and Vogue Bambini.[18]

1988–2016: Franca Sozzani years

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In 1988, Franca Sozzani (1950–2016) became the second editor-in-chief for the publication, with the July/August 1988 issue her first.[19] Before editing Vogue Italia, Sozzani worked as editor for Vogue Bambini, and as editor-in-chief for Lei and subsequently for Per Lui, the men's edition of the former. After seeking new possibilities, the Italian journalist accepted the offer to edit Vogue Italia.[20]

In July 2008, Sozzani released the all-black issue, featuring only black models in the whole issue.[21]

The exclusive pictures of Ethel Granger, the woman with the smallest waist ever. Her fixation for corsets has inspired Vogue Italia's September 2011 Issue.[22]

On 22 December 2016 Franca Sozzani died at the age of 66.[23]

2017–present: Emanuele Farneti years and re-structure

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On 20 January 2017, it was officially announced by Jonathan Newhouse, CEO of Condé Nast International, that Emanuele Farneti would be the new editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia and L'Uomo Vogue. Farneti was the director of eight different magazines, being the latest GQ Italia.[24]

In July 2017, it was announced that Condé Nast Italia would fold L'Uomo Vogue, Vogue Accessory, Vogue Bambini and Vogue Sposa, in order to focus on top brands, such as Vogue Italia and GQ among others.[25]

A year later, Farneti relaunched L'Uomo Vogue as a biannual publication. In July 2021 Farneti left the magazine after the publication of the September issue of the same year.[26]

On early September 2021, it was confirmed that the magazine would no longer feature an editor-in-chief but will be led by a head of editorial content, a position assigned to former fashion market director Francesca Ragazzi. In her new role, Ragazzi reported to Anna Wintour and to Vogue European editorial director Edward Enninful.[27]

Content

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Vogue Italia and the Italian fashion industry have historically had a symbiotic relationship, with Vogue Italia contributing to Milan's prominence in the fashion world.[citation needed]

Recent influential editorials have included Steven Meisel's September 2006 "State of Emergency", a visual play on the War on Terror,[28] and Meisel's July 2007 "Rehab", addressing recent celebrity visits to rehab clinics.[29][30] and the August 2010 Issue, featuring Kristen McMenamy, shooting on the site of the BP Oil Spill in the Gulf of Mexico.[31]

Remix Contest

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Fur project designed for the Remix contest by Daniel Kohavi

Vogue Italia hosts their annual "Remix Contest" (in-association with the International Fur Federation) to provide a platform for up-and-coming designers. The contest was first launched in 2004.

In 2019, Netherlands-born designer Berivan Cemal[32] won the event; the judges' panel included Vogue talent Sara Sozzani Maino, expert of fur sustainability Samantha De Reviziis, Italian designer Gabriele Colangelo and Filipino fashion influencer Bryanboy.

All-Black issue

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The July 2008 issue of Vogue Italia featured only black models (photographed by Steven Meisel[33]), with the articles pertaining to black women in the media, arts and entertainment.[34] The magazine claimed to release this issue as a response to widespread criticism that fashion magazines, worldwide, do not feature more black cover models. Industry insiders have claimed that advertisers believe any magazine issue featuring a black cover model is "unable" to sell, or will sell considerably less than issues with non-black cover models. This belief, along with the formation of a protest group in New York City that challenges racism in the industry, convinced Italian Vogue's editor, Franca Sozzani to create this issue.[35] It became the highest-selling issue of Italian Vogue in history, and had run-out of print twice, which marked the first time in Condé Nast history that the magazine reprinted an issue to satisfy demand.[36] The reprinted copies displayed headlines as "Most Wanted Issue Ever" and "First Reprint".[37]

However, even though the advertising pages increased by 30%, there was a "glaring lack of black models" in the issue. Meisel said: "I've asked my advertising clients so many times, 'Can we use a black girl?' They say no. Advertisers say black models don't sell."[36][37]

VogueEncyclo

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VogueEncyclo is a fashion encyclopedia founded by Vogue Italia (Condé Nast Digital).[38][39] It went live on 10 October 2011. It has an archive with topics ranging from A–Z: fashion and costume, designers, photography, cinema, people, mania, bloggers, fabrics and architecture. Anyone is free to participate, all articles have bylines and Vogue staff reviews all submissions.

The whole of the content is accessible in either English or Italian.[40]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ Friedman, Vanessa (September 20, 2017). "At Italian Vogue, a New Beginning". The New York Times – via NYTimes.com.
  2. ^ Press, Debbie (2004). Your Modeling Career: You Don't Have to Be a Superstar to Succeed. New York: Allworth Press. ISBN 978-1-58115-359-0.
  3. ^ a b Turra, Alessandra (2021-09-06). "Condé Nast Names Vogue Italia Head of Editorial Content". WWD. Retrieved 2024-11-02.
  4. ^ a b "Remembering Franca Sozzani: Her Best Italian Vogue Covers". W Magazine. 2016-12-22. Retrieved 2024-11-02.
  5. ^ "Rosselli Kuster, Emilia - MAM-e". fashion.mam-e.it. 2021-11-19. Retrieved 2024-11-03.
  6. ^ Monti, Gabriele. "Through A Paper Looking Glass".
  7. ^ VOGUEGRAPHY (2016-10-19). "Wilhelmina". VOGUEGRAPHY. Retrieved 2024-11-03.
  8. ^ Batilla, Andrea (2022-01-06). "L'Archivio di Vogue Italia: un alfabeto della moda". Vogue Italia (in Italian). Retrieved 2024-11-03.
  9. ^ a b "VOGUE ITALIA". VINTAGE VON WERTH. Retrieved 2024-11-03.
  10. ^ "Vogue Italia - Masthead". Vogue Italia (163): 57. October 1964.
  11. ^ "Vogue Italia - Masthead". Vogue Italia (182): 4. July 1966.
  12. ^ Turra, Alessandra (2017-01-20). "Emanuele Farneti Named Vogue Italia and L'Uomo Vogue Editor in Chief". WWD. Retrieved 2024-11-02.
  13. ^ "Biblioteca - Rivista - focus | Ordine Architetti Milano". ordinearchitetti.mi.it. Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  14. ^ "Vanity n.4 – ottobre 1980 - Milano Fashion Library". Milano Fashion Library - The greatest e-library of fashion, design and photography (in Italian). Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  15. ^ a b c d e Shannon, Sarah (31 July 2017). "Condé Nast Italia to Focus on 'Top Brands' as L'Uomo Vogue Closes". The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 8 September 2024.
  16. ^ "Vogue Bellezza n. 1 – Dicembre/Febbraio 1982 - Milano Fashion Library". Milano Fashion Library - The greatest e-library of fashion, design and photography (in Italian). Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  17. ^ "Vogue Pelle n°1 Settembre 1980 - Milano Fashion Library". Milano Fashion Library - The greatest e-library of fashion, design and photography (in Italian). Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  18. ^ "The legend of Vogue Italia". Lombardia Secrets. April 6, 2021.
  19. ^ "Look through and comment the first issue of Vogue Italia out in November 1965 and the July 1988 issue, the very first I was editor-in-chief of - Vogue.it". Retrieved 9 January 2017.
  20. ^ Horwell, Veronica (28 December 2016). "Franca Sozzani obituary". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 9 January 2017.
  21. ^ "Vogue: all white now?". The Guardian. 31 July 2008. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 23 January 2017.
  22. ^ vogue.it: Ethel Granger 1 September 2011
  23. ^ "Vogue Italia director Franca Sozzani dies aged 66". ABC. 22 December 2016. Retrieved 16 February 2017.
  24. ^ "Emanuele Farneti is the new Editor in Chief of Vogue Italia". Vogue.it (in Italian). 20 January 2017. Retrieved 23 January 2017.
  25. ^ "Condé Nast Italia to Focus on 'Top Brands' as L'Uomo Vogue Closes". The Business of Fashion. 2017-07-31. Retrieved 2018-01-12.
  26. ^ "Vogue Italia Editor Emanuele Farneti Exits Amid Consolidation". The Business of Fashion. 2021-07-22. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  27. ^ "Condé Nast Names Vogue Italia Head of Editorial Content". finance.yahoo.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  28. ^ Joanna Bourke (12 September 2006). "A taste for torture?". The Guardian. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  29. ^ Huntington, Patty (17 August 2007). "Rapid detox: Meisel's Girls, Interrupted push rehab chic". Blogs. Archived from the original on 11 February 2012. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  30. ^ "'A fun take on rehab chic' – brave or sick?". The Times. 16 August 2007. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  31. ^ "Health | Yahoo Lifestyle". www.yahoo.com. Archived from the original on September 4, 2010.
  32. ^ Carrera, Martino (2019-02-25). "International Fur Federation Toasts Winners of Remix Fur Contest". WWD. Retrieved 2020-11-10.
  33. ^ (in Italian)The Black Issue The July 2008 «Vogue Italia» special issue. Retrieved 24 July 2010.
  34. ^ Horyn, Cathy (18 June 2008). "Beauty and Soul". NY Times. Archived from the original on 20 July 2012. Retrieved 1 July 2008.
  35. ^ Lucy Cockcroft (20 June 2008). "Italian Vogue shows black models only". Telegraph. Retrieved 1 July 2008.
  36. ^ a b "Italian Vogue's "Black Issue" Goes Into Reprints". Glossed Over. 23 July 2008. Archived from the original on 13 January 2012. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  37. ^ a b Stableford, Dylan (21 July 2008). "'All-Black' Italian Vogue White Hot at the Newsstand". Foliomag. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  38. ^ Oliver, Simone S. (November 2, 2011). "Vogue Encyclo Is Looking for Contributors". The New York Times. Retrieved 22 March 2013.
  39. ^ Martens, Cynthia (October 17, 2011). "Franca Sozzani's Vogue Encyclo Launches". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 22 March 2013.
  40. ^ Martens, Cynthia (17 October 2011). "Franca Sozzani's Vogue Encyclo Launches". WWD. Retrieved 22 March 2013.
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