Uniforms and insignia of the Red Army (1917-1922)

Two Red Army men, the commander of the Western Front motor transport depot (left) and a tank commander (right), in front of a British Mark V tank in Soviet service (Smolensk, summer 1920).

In its nascent years, the Red Army's uniforms and insignia were defined by two main factors: the revolutionary symbology developed in 1917 and the abysmal logistical realities of a country in crisis. This typically meant soldiers marching to the front in shabby World War hand-me-downs, if they were lucky, and rustic peasant shoes made of bark, if they were lucky. At this time insignia was also primitive, scant strips of red cloth at best. As the Soviet state consolidated however, these would become more developed; uniforms became more distinctive and insignia more specific in their meanings, evoking symbols of labour or a Russian cultural identity. Yet these unique and potent visual elements often wouldn't last: once the revolutionary period had ended, many would be abandoned or even reversed entirely under the Stalinist regime.

Symbolic origins and the Red Guards

On 23 February 1917, Russia burst into a revolution and with it came the fall of the Tsardom and the establishment of a Provisional Government. The defining factor in the fall of the Autocracy was the lack of support from the military: Both soldier and sailor could bear the Court and the degrading treatment from their superiors any longer and so joined the masses. The symbols of the old regime, including those of the military, were the target of a campaign of iconoclasm from the populace which would form the basis of Soviet military symbology for years to come.

Symbols of rank

Considering that the Provisional Government was meant to be only a temporary measure in order to host the first elections to the Constituent Assembly, it is understandable that they made fairly few reforms to the old tsarist uniforms. For the most part these reforms seemed to have been made primarily to appease the fiery sentiments of the rank and file. To them the worst symbol of the old order were shoulder boards, especially those of officers. This hatred was so great that officers would sometimes be surrounded by gangs of soldiers and have their shoulder boards forcibly torn from their uniforms and in other instances even murder was committed over them. Men also began to refuse taking orders from officers wearing tsarist monograms on their shoulders. The reasoning behind these acts was aptly described in the diary of an officer paraphrasing his men's interpretation of Order No.1 from the Petrograd Soviet: 'Saluting acknowledges epaulettes which were created by the Tsar: the Father Tsar is no more, so there is no need for epaulettes, and no need to salute'. Early after February shoulder boards were not yet universally hated, with some adding red sewn material or ribbons to their own, but later the idea that shoulders boards were a relic of the Autocracy became monolithic. The renouncing of shoulder boards was a radical expression of equality and this was likely a consideration for the Red Army when creating its own rank insignia (the term officer would not be reintroduced until 1935, even if this was a mostly superficial change).

The colour red in Russia

After February, the culture of the revolutionary underground came to dominate Russian society along with its love for the colour red. For centuries red (krasnaia in Russian) had been the international colour of defiance and revolution but within Russia it had its own unique meanings. Red had been a favoured colour of the Tsars, using it prominently in their architecture such as in the Red Square for example. Iconic buildings in Russia already sporting a revolutionary hue, alongside krasnaia also meaning beautiful, not to mention its populist appeal, gave the colour additional propaganda usage to the Bolsheviks who would succeed in associating the colour with their brand of communism. It is then unsurprising that it would feature so prominently in the Red Army.

Origins of the red star

Further information: Red star

There are a few stories of how the red star came to be the symbol of the Red Armed Forces, some more reputable than others. One credible story says that in 1917, members of the Moscow garrison were ordered to wear white tin stars on their caps to differentiate themselves from the mass influx of troops returning from the front against the Central Powers. When a revolutionary air came over them, the garrison painted these stars red with the Bolsheviks approving so much of the idea that it would become the official symbol of the Soviet military. One highly questionable tale claims that the star was introduced by the large section of Jews in the young government and military who, allegedly, saw the Revolution as the in-progress building of the Promised Land in Russia. Either way, the official line from the Bolsheviks was that the star represented world revolution on the 'five continents'.

The red star was by no means a new symbol however, for it had religious implications deeply rooted in peasant superstition. One pamphlet from 1918 justified to the peasant soldier why he wore the red star in folkloric terms:

"There once was a beautiful maiden named Pravda (Truth) who had a burning red star on her forehead which lit up the whole world and brought it truth, justice, and happiness. One day the red star was stolen by Krivda (falsehood) who wanted to bring darkness and evil to the world. Thus began the rule of Krivda. Meanwhile, Pravda called on the people to retrieve her star and 'return the light of truth to the world'. A good youth conquered Krivda and her forces and returned the red star to Pravda, whereupon the evil forces ran away from the light 'like owls and bats', and 'once again the people lived by truth'."

The Red Guards

Further information: Red Guards (Russia)

The beginnings of the Red Army and its continuation of this revolutionary symbology can be seen in the Red Guards that preceded it in 1917. These armed bands, primary composed of factory workers, were a wholly volunteer force where commanders were elected during militia meetings. As more men returned from the front their ranks were swelled with soldiers and sailors as well as international volunteers, during the first months of 1918.

Red Guards of the Vulkan Factory in Petrograd (1917). They wear a mix of military and civilian clothing and seem to lack any kind of Red Guard insignia. In this detachment shoulder boards are still worn by some.

Red Guard uniform, or lack thereof, was a melting pot of both military and civilian garments. Guardsmen wore whatever was available with their scant red symbols being the only thing that united them aesthetically, if worn. German and Austro-Hungarian POWs turned Red Guards would continue wearing their old uniforms due to a lack of alternatives. During the civil war years, the Red Army would inherit such a situation until new uniforms could be provided.

After their formation following the February Revolution, Red Guards began to wear diagonal (top right to bottom left) red cloth strips on caps and red ribbons alongside red cloth armbands, however the extent to which any of these were worn varied. Some armbands would have writing displaying date of formation, locality or factory of origin, detachment number and/or simply the words 'Red Guard'. Later after October others could have designs (an example being a depiction of Saint George from Moscow) or badges (such as the militia shield badge introduced under the Bolsheviks).

General uniform (1918-1922)

In the first years of its life, the uniform of the Red Army was anarchic: Both military and civilian garb was worn, men fought each other over life saving army coats in the winter whilst some had to wear ladies' boots. One bad-tempered Trotsky had even said to a conference of army political workers in December 1919 that "Comrades, I don't want to frighten you, but ... although we have not been brought down by Denikin or Kolchak, we may yet be brought down by overcoats and boots".

In the first half of 1918, it had become apparent that the new model of army was inadequate, both small in number (200,000 by April) and typically ineffectual in the face of the Germans and the reactionary Volunteer Army. The elections and volunteerism of the Red Guards was abandoned and conscription for men ages 21 to 26 was introduced on 12 June, swelling the size of the army. This engorged force, along with the appalling state of the country's logistics, meant that the introduction of new uniforms and insignia would only be on paper for large portions of the army who would continue on using old tsarist stock and whatever else they could get their hands on.

Though the situation would improve over the civil war years, at no point during it could it be said that there was one true uniform; Not even the supposedly ubiquitous red star would be worn by everyone in the army, with some exceptions, until the end of 1919.

Red clothing in the Red Army

In the early period of the civil war, when troops often had to supply or produce their own uniforms, the cultural obsession with the colour red manifested once more. Soldiers sought out red materials to make their tunics and according to G.H. Mikhailovsk, a Russian diplomat, an entire unit outfitted in the colour occupied Sevastopol in 1919: 'Over all the city... [from] Nakhimovsk Avenue to Ekaterininsk Street [there] was ... a red cavalcade all in red garments from head to toe, with high white gaiters on some... so that they looked like a new type of American red Indian'. Even experienced commanders would wear women's coats with some sense of pride if they sported a suitably proletarian hue.

Foreign uniforms

After the beginning of the Allied intervention, some foreign uniform pieces began to make their way into the Red Army as Lenin recalled during a 1920 conference: '... and to us now one after [another] approach trains with splendid English equipment, [which] frequently meet Russian Red [Army] men. Whole divisions invested in ... English [clothes] and[,] ... [as] one comrade in the Caucasus [related to me], [a] whole [Red Army] division [wearing] Italian bersale. I feel very sorry that I do not have [any photos] of these ... Red [Army] men ... . I must [admit] ... that the Red Army [is] beholden to English merchants[; merchants] that dress our men via their soldiers, which the Bolsheviks beat and will beat still many more times...'. There was much truth behind these words as shown by British Major General Knox's outrage at the situation in Siberia during 1919: 80% of the White Army's conscripts had run off to the Red side of the front, presumably taking 200,000 British uniforms with them. Commissar Trotsky sent a letter to Knox thanking him for his donation. Foreign uniforms in the Red Army predate such events however as foreigners who joined would sometimes retain their old uniforms in spite of orders to do the contrary.

1918

Headwear

The most prevalent piece of headwear for both sides during the civil war was the peaked service cap (furashka) of the Imperial Army. These would have varied from khaki to olive in colour with a black leather peak, and sometimes a leather chinstrap, with caps made wholly of leather being favoured by commanders when available. Some cap peaks and chinstraps were made of the same cloth as the rest of the hat. Leather peaks were supposed to be painted khaki in the field and were sometimes crumpled as was fashionable. The M1910 winter cap (papakha) was also worn as well as innumerable different types of fur hat. The papakha consisted of a khaki headpiece with an upward folded front flap and a wider upward folded rear flap that could be folded down to cover the ears and neck; The flaps were made of either light grey natural or artificial astrakhan fur. A khaki side cap (pilotka) was introduced in 1916 for Russian soldiers to wear under French supplied Adrian helmets. In the Red Army these were often worn by cadets.

Occasionally, when on parade, some units would wear Shakos from old Imperial stores.

Tunics and greatcoats

The different variants of the M1910 and M1912 winter wool and the M1914 summer cotton field shirts (all called gymnastyorkas) were very common, especially amongst the lower ranks. These all had standing collars fastened by two buttons as well as two or three buttons that, along with the opening to be fastened, stopped about halfway down the khaki to olive shirt (they could turn an off white with enough hard wear and washing however). Among commanders 'French' tunics were popular, this being a slang term for tunics of British or American style: Such tunics typically having turnover or standing collars, four external pockets (two chest and two waist), and buttoned cuff flaps. Officers additionally wore M1909 and M1913 kitels which were similar to the 'French' but with standing collar, internal skirt pockets, and no cuff flaps. Black leather jackets of varying styles were also popular among Red commanders just as it came to be in the last war.

The mid-shin length greatcoats (shinel) had falling collars and were grey to brown with hooks instead of buttons, some with decorative buttons, or light blue-grey with two rows of six buttons. The cavalry variant coat was longer, cut just above the ankle, and had cuffs that curved to a point at the back and front; all were cinched at the rear with a half-belt with two buttons. Sometimes a bashlyk, a kind of stand-alone hood, would be worn as well.

Leg and footwear

The Red Army on the march. They wear furashka caps, gymnastiorkas, sharovari trousers, and puttees. Note the prevalence of woven bast lapti peasant shoes. None of these men seem to be wearing Red Army insignia; this, along with sharing the same uniforms, would often lead to Reds and Whites mistaking each other for allies, or friends for enemies, during the Civil War.

Both officers and other ranks wore trousers (sharovari). For some officers these took the form of breeches whilst most soldiers wore semi-breeches (tight at the calf and loose at the thigh but less so in both cases than full breeches). These were typically olive-khaki but could vary greatly in colour depending on from where in the Imperial Army they originated, sometimes with brightly coloured stripes down the leg. Once again leather was especially popular with commanders.

A lapti made of woven bast.

During World War 1 the black leather jackboots worn by the army had to be supplemented with puttees and ankle boots; critical shortages of either of these lead to the introduction of lapti, a kind of slipper made of leather or woven birch-bark fibres (bast) by peasants, for many in the Red Army. Both military and civilian leather boots, puttees, and leather or canvas gaiters were in use, the first being, again, popular with Red commanders. Valenki felt overboots would have been worn in winter when available.

Equipment

The most commonly worn equipment for the average soldier was either the brown ammunition belt with one or two ammunition pouches, and in some cases the old Romanov eagle buckle, or a fabric/canvas bandolier (the canvas version was introduced during the World War). A variety of haversacks and backpacks were worn usually of cloth or canvas. When not worn, and if procured, greatcoats would be fastened in bandolier-style over the shoulder and under the arm; this could provide some limited protection against sabre slashes. During the early parts of the Civil War, ammunition belts for machine guns were worn criss-crossed over the chest either for convenience or due to necessity. Bayonet frogs, Linnemann entrenching tools, a curved debout knife and/or water bottle-tin bowl combinations could also have been worn.

Commanders in the field typically wore a brown leather braceless belt with one or two separate straps crossed across the chest, typically a sabre on the left strap and a pistol on the right, whilst others would wear belts with either two vertical shoulder braces (this being the Tsarist M1911 and M1912) or a single diagonal one over one shoulder. After November 1917 wearing two front braces vertically was banned, presumably to help differentiate between friend and foe, but this was not universally followed. Upon these belts were worn map cases, pistol holsters (although simply tucking pistols into belts was common practice until 1922), kindzhal daggers, binocular cases, and whistles on the brace; the Mauser C96, with its wooden holster-stock combination, was the sidearm favoured most. Sabres and shashkas were worn in the 'oriental' manner, this being on a separate over-the-shoulder strap with the cutting edge facing backwards. Leather equipment of Caucasian chic, black with chased silver ornaments, was especially fashionable amongst those on the southern fronts.

Insignia

Pictured is Anton Blisnyak, a machine gun team instructor of the 1st Revolutionary Cavalry Regiment. He wears a standard issue Imperial Army greatcoat, likely a brownish-grey, and a kubanka hat. From his belt hangs a naval dirk whilst on his left sleeve is a machine gun team badge embroidered in gold. Under this patch are ten red wound stripes despite Blisnyak having received a great many more.

During the Red Army's brief flirtation with military democracy, insignia was essentially along the same lines as that of the Red Guards; the only further development beyond this at that time was a cloth red star above the left cuff indicating a commander of a force of any size. After its return to form, the army began to slowly introduce its own distinct insignia. The first of these, introduced by the Supreme Military Soviet (SMS) on 29 July, was 'the Revolutionary Military Symbol of the Red Army': a red enamel or painted star containing a bronze hammer-and-plough device set within a silver wreath (an oak branch on the left side and a laurel on the right). This was essentially the Red Army's membership badge which was worn on the left breast. It was initially worn by only commanders and cadets but soon could be worn by all Red Army servicemen (if this or the sleeve star was not worn the quality of a man's uniform could imply his status as a commander). Under these badges or in the bottom gap between the laurel and the star, shoulder board branch badges from the old army would sometimes be worn.

On the same day a dedicated cap badge of a slightly convex enamel or painted star with hammer-and-plough was also introduced. This was intended to be worn on the band but would often be worn on the crown instead. In 1918 the star was actually worn "upside down" (two points up and one down) but would be changed to the expected orientation by the end of the year. In lieu of official red stars, one of the unofficial locally made variants, or Red Guard style cloth insignia, soldiers would sometimes wear the golden stars from old tsarist officers' shoulder boards and in other cases tsarist branch of service shoulder badges on their caps (an example would be the crossed cannons of the artillery).

Not until 1920 would the Red Army have its own branch insignia and so innumerable unofficial designs were worn, if not the previously mentioned tsarist symbols on caps. These were sometimes based on the branch insignia designs of the old Imperial Army, such as the machine gun worn on the shoulder boards of imperial machine gunners, but now worn on the upper left sleeve in embroidered gold wire.

On 21 October, the month the Soviet government adopted the Geneva Convention, the Revolutionary Military Council of the Republic (RMCR) signed Order No. 120 which elaborated on the insignia to be worn by sanitary personnel in the army: 'Due to the fact of enemy violence towards the sanitary personnel, providing aid for the wounded and sick servicemen, it is prescribed: ... To the military-sanitary personnel to have the enamel mark of the Red Cross on the cap-band instead of the former [imperial] cockade, and to those working on a battlefield, besides - the Red Cross [on a white] armband on the left sleeve'.

Above the left cuff, cloth or braid red or yellow wound stripes were sometimes worn; this was a continuation of those introduced in 1916.

Cap badges of the Red Army (1918-1922)
Red star badge as of People's Commissar of War Affairs Order No. 594 (from 29 July 1918)	Red star badge as of RMCR Order No. 953 (from 13 April 1922)	Red star badge as of RMCR Order No. 1691 (from 11 July 1922)

1919

In the previous year the RMCR created one 'Commission on the Elaboration of Uniform' on 25 April. The purpose of the commission, as the name implies, was to host a competition starting on 7 May to design new uniforms and insignia for the Red Army. Many prominent artists and designers took part with the commission's decisions on new uniforms, insignia, and branch of service colours finalised on 18 December. The RMCR backed these decisions on 16 January 1919 through Order No. 116 which announced their official adoption into the army.

The tsarist myth

It has been erroneously claimed that the M1919 Red Army uniform actually originated in 1913 in order to commemorate the tricentenary of the Romanovs. These uniforms, with three tabs across the chest apparently commemorating each century of the dynasty, would have supposedly been taken from already existing stores and modified for Red Army use. This is likely the product of a game of Chinese whispers wherein the fact that the budenovka hat was originally designed in 1913 for the Imperial Army (though never seeing use) has been blown out of proportions.

Headwear

1919 issue budenovkas: note the varying materials, cuts, and colours used. 1: This infantry budenovka is of the first pattern as indicated by the shorter drooping point (no stiffening rod) and the lack of a cap badge. Black lines the inner edge of the crimson star. The buttons are made of bone. 2: A khaki second pattern budenovka with the red bordered black star of the engineers and black branch colour cloth covered buttons. 3: Second pattern budenovka in cavalry colours. The blue star has black lines near the inner edge. 4: This second pattern budenovka's abnormally large black engineer star lacks the red edging typical of the branch. The brass buttons are embossed with the hammer and plough. 5: Another second pattern example this one being made of corduroy for summer use. The buttons are covered in corduroy and the star lacks the black inner edging.

The most distinctive piece of the new M1919 uniform was the budenovka although it only became commonly worn from 1920. This woollen khaki headgear, intended for winter use, could easily be identified by the blunt cloth "spike" that protruded from the top below which was a cloth peak and a cloth flap, secured with branch colour buttons and leather straps, which could be rolled down to cover the neck, ears, and chin. On the front was worn a cloth star (4.3-8.8 cm in diameter) in branch of service colour with black lines within the star following close to its edges; black stars had red lines around the edges (both 5-6mm in width). A second pattern was introduced on 8 April 1919 with a taller point, a stiffening rod to prevent the point drooping, and a larger star (10.5 cm in diameter) with an enamel Red Army cap badge worn in its centre. Men who modified their budenovkas to have taller points were jokingly nicknamed umootvod, meaning rod-brains: the taller the point the more feeble the mind. A light khaki cotton version was also worn in the summer.

The hat was named after the famed and mustachioed cavalry commander Semyon Budyonny however, budenovka was just one of a few names this unique headpiece was known by, although it was the most prevalent. The official name was shlem (helmet) but it was first widely known as a bogatirka due its semblance to the helmets of the medieval bogatyrs of Russian legend; the hat was designed by the artist Victor Vasnetsov who was well known for his folkloric paintings of such figures. For a time it was also known as the frunzevka in tribute to Mikhail Frunze, another Red commander, whose troops included weavers who were some of the first to produce and wear the hat.

Tunics and greatcoats

The new khaki tunic, introduced from 8 April 1919, was very similar to the Tsarist gymnastyorka but with a few notable additions and changes. The two buttons that went down the chest were now concealed under a cloth strip and it forwent buttons for the standing collar in favour of two sets of hooks; two buttons fastened the gathered cuffs and flapless internal waist pockets were added; three horizontal mirrored spearhead shaped tabs called razgovory were worn across the chest button flap (22 cm x 4.5 cm), as well as a smaller one across the neck (8 cm x 2.5 cm), all in branch colour. In the field khaki razgovory would sometimes replace the coloured ones. Commanders would sometimes have their old gymastiorkas tailored so that they would better resemble the new tunic.

The M1919 kaftan, M1919 budenovka (left), and M1922 summer budenovka (right).

The kaftan was the new greatcoat for the army that, much like the new gymnastiorka, had only changed in few ways from its predecessor. The colour was now khaki with a darker khaki for the collar, pocket flaps and cuffs; two vertical internal pockets were at the waist and two at the breast with the former having flaps and the latter none; the kaftan's dark khaki cuffs would curve upward at the back; instead of a half belt at the rear, the kaftan had smaller half-belts on both left and right sides; the diamond-shaped collar tabs were in branch colour as well as the three smaller razgovory chest tabs with buttons that went down the right side fastening the coat opening, which was also off centre, along with four sets of hooks; branch colour piping would sometimes be worn on the collar and cuffs. Just as with the new tunic, in the field khaki razgovory were meant to be worn. The razgovory were in all likelihood meant to evoke the chest tabs worn by the Streltsy who had themselves revolted against the Autocracy in 1698. The meaning behind the nickname of razgovory isn't definitively known as it can be understood as meaning 'a conversation', 'a mess', or 'to mess around'. The first interpretation could be linked to how Red commanders and commissars were, supposedly, the first to receive the new coats and so their men saw the garb as synoynmous with their 'big talking' superiors whilst the latter could simply refer to the fiddly nature of fastening the buttons.

Insignia

Rank sleeve insignia: A: The 1919 regulation rank sleeve badge, here showing the three triangles of a starshina (equivalent to a sergeant major). Above is worn an unofficial artillery badge. B: An example of a non-regulation sleeve badge combining a popular cavalry badge design with that of the rank of pomkomvzvoda (equivalent to a sergeant).

As the army became more conventionally hierarchical, the lack of any kind of distinctive rank insignia beyond the universal, and vague, red sleeve star became a greater issue. This was attested to by commanders such as I.P. Uborevich of the 18th Rifle Division who went to the lengths of creating a system of symbols for his own unit not long before the introduction of the official rank markings. This official insignia took the form of a red cloth star (11 cm in diameter) with a black border (printed with ink) near the inner edge and a black hammer and sickle (also ink) above the left cuff (centred 12.5 cm above the cuff): under this star would be one to four triangles (4 cm a side), squares (3 cm a side), or diamonds (3.5 cm height and 3 cm width) organised in a horizontal line also of red cloth with the black inner edge stitching. The senior ranks, which used diamonds, had a larger star (14.5 cm in diameter) which had an additional black inner edging within the first: the diamonds also had this additional edging. Various local and unofficial variants of these insignia also existed, with some of these combining both rank and branch distinctions. Often commanders would also organize the shapes into varying patterns until uniformity could be properly enforced.

The new 1919 regulations also introduced distinct branch colours to the army. These were as follows:

Branch colours as of RMCR Order No.116 (from 16 January 1919)
Branch	Colour
General Staff	Black (velvet) piped crimson
Infantry	Crimson
Cavalry	Medium blue
Artillery	Orange
Engineers	Black
Medical Service	Same as attached branch
Air Service	Light blue
Border Guards	Green

The wounded are evacuated from Kronstadt (1921). To the right stands the railway's commandant who, against regulation, wears his sleeve patch sans armband. He wears the three squares of a battalion commander which he has edged with white thread (presumably a local innovation). Just behind him a medic wears an unofficial sleeve patch piped red (the regulation armband is being worn further to his left).

On 22 August, RMCR Order No. 1406 was implemented which introduced sleeve insignia for military transportation personnel. This consisted of a black, velvet, horizontal diamond (12 cm by 8 cm) edged green (3mm width) and containing a two winged railcar wheel embroidered in silver on the left sleeve. Commanders wore this patch on a red armband (12 cm width) with black lines near the top and bottom edges; attached commissars the same but with dark yellow edging rather than green.

During the year it had become a popular practice to return deserters back to their unit with a black armband sewn to their sleeve; at the beginning of 1920 however, this practice was phased out as it would lead to said deserter being antagonised by their fellow soldiers, sometimes to the point of violence or death.

1920

Insignia

1920 saw the introduction of official branch insignia via one RMCR Order No. 572. The decision to implement such insignia was taken at the end of 1919 which was then followed on 5 January by the first design illustrations by the artist V.M. Popov: these being for the Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery, and Engineers. These designs were approved by the RMCR and so a commission was established to further elaborate on them. This commission further assessed these badges, as well as a new design for aviation, over 15 days after which on 1 March these final variations were agreed to by the RMCR with them being added to the official uniform on 3 April as per the order.

These badges were worn on the upper left sleeve with each consisting of a shape in branch colour with gold (or silver for the Engineers) embroidery near the edges; in the centre of this would be a red star on a sun from which sunbursts (in the same embroidery) would emanate; on the lower half of the patch, superimposed over the sunburst, would be a green semi-circle or wedge in green representing the earth upon which would be an embroidered or metal branch emblem.

The specifics for each badge are as follows:

Branch arm badges as of RMCR Order No.572 (from 3 April 1920)
Branch	Image	Notes	Dimensions
Infantry			63mmx100mm
Cavalry			60mmx75mm
Artillery		Due to an error in Order No. 572, the colour for the artillery badge was described as scarlet, rather than the artillery branch's orange, which was not corrected until 6 March 1922 by Order No. 89 of the Main Chief of Logistics.	50mmx95mm
Engineer		On engineers patches the branch emblem on the bottom half would vary by speciality.	63mmx63mm
Air Service		The wings and propellor of each patch varied in colour by specialty: black wings and propellor - military and naval pilots; silver wings and propellor - observers; gold wings and propellor - other airmen.	100mmx63mm

These would be edged to denote the acts of a servicemen: in gold for a member of a unit awarded the Order of the Red Banner and in silver for receiving a wound or for serving with the army in the field for over a year whilst also taking part in a major battle.

General uniform (1922)

By 1922 the Soviet state had achieved what many had thought to be impossible - even by some of its own leaders. It had survived years of civil war, famine, and revolt and had now reached a time of relative peace in which a recovery from its state of siege could finally occur. In a sense, this was also true of the Red Army, now set the task of its own professionalisation and standardisation; this would of course include its uniform which during the Civil War could barely be described as such.

To this end a new uniform, meant to be common to both soldier and commander, was introduced on 31 January. All previous items were officially abolished, except branch sleeve badges and leather lapti, but old pieces were tolerated until 1923. This uniform was to be highly regulated and of shades of grey rather than the old khaki; this was never fully achieved however as uniforms of khaki, and in some cases white, were still common and by 1924 this was reversed entirely. Only exacerbating this lack of uniformity was the fact that instead of a single unit being entirely reclothed, it was common to distribute individual pieces among several units instead. Whilst this may seem like a small departure from those issues of supply so prevalent during the Civil War, progress was made and the Red Army was more than ever before deserving of the title 'men in uniform'.

Headwear

In winter, the budenovka continued to be worn but was modified; the hat was now dark grey with a branch-colour cloth star 9.5cm in diameter containing a red star badge. A new piece of headgear was also introduced for summer use, this also being a budenovka, made of light grey or khaki fabric and with a front peak that extented around its sides to form a back flap. Over this was a chinstrap and above that was a branch-colour cloth star (9.5cm diameter) and star badge. This summer budenovka was nicknamed 'zdravstvuy-proshay', meaning 'hello-goodbye', by troops due to its similar front and rear peaks. This new piece would not fully replace the old peaked service caps however, which were still often worn, whilst wide-brimmed khaki panama-style hats could be seen among troops instead in Central Asia.

Tunics and greatcoats

Mikhail Matiyasevich wearing the M1922 tunic.

The new tunic was very much so on the same lines as that of 1919 but now, at least officially, in grey (light for summer and dark for winter) and with a turndown collar with branch-colour rectangular tabs (8/8.5cm by 4cm). Razgovory chest tabs were spaced 5cm apart and internal slit pockets were worn at the waist - during material shortages the tabs would be cancelled. The only real difference in cut between the summer tunic and winter tunic was that those worn in winter were fastened by five buttons, two of which were visible at the collar, whilst the summer one used metal hooks as a fastener.

The greatcoat was essentially the same but with a few modifications: the colour was now light grey with dark grey collar and cuffs, although there are examples of these - as well as chest tabs in some cases - also being made of the light grey material; waist pockets were removed and the back was cinched by a single half-belt with buttons; the coat seemed to vary in length with mosts reaching down to the ankle whilst some ended at about mid-calf. The Tsarist greatcoat continued to see use at this time and in some cases was modified with razgovory tabs.

Leg and footwear

Sharovari trousers were still worn, now in summer light and winter dark grey as well as khaki, with those being worn by cavalry often having leather reinforcement along the inner leg. Some commanders could be seen wearing trousers with branch-colour piping down the outer leg seam.

Black leather jackboots were the standard footwear but brown leather ankle boots with puttees were also seen during shortages.

Equipment

The M1911 brown leather belt could still be seen amongst commanders at this time, with either a single brace crossed or two braces crossed or vertical , whilst other soldiers wore a braceless brown leather belt with a single leather ammo pouch worn to the side. On a commander's belt would often be a pistol holster and a shashka or sabre.

Insignia

In 1922 the rank insignia was changed. Whilst the series of triangles (2.5cm a side), squares (2cm a side), and diamonds (2cm by 3cm) were still used, they were now organised vertically under a red star within a spearhead shaped patch just above the left cuff. This patch (5-7cm by 18cm) was to be in branch-colour - during shortages of coloured cloth the patch would be made out of the base shirt or coat material - and was piped scarlet on all sides except the bottom most. The shapes that made up ones rank were scarlet for military commanders and blue for administrative staff, although there are examples of administrative personnel wearing red rank markings.

M1922 rank badge for a cavalry pomkomvzvoda (sergeant equivalent).

Branch insignia was modified slightly and new additions were made: armour, the Escort Guards of the Republic, and the Revolutionary Military Tribunals now had their own badges.

Collar coding was also introduced - this being a detailed system of symbols that conveyed branch, sub-branch, unit, and/or district - to be worn on branch-colour collar tabs.

Branch and other uniforms (1918-1922)

Air Service

1918-1922

The Red air force, being a descendant of the Imperial air force, inherited much of its fashion; this was done for the sake of both necessity and style as most of the fledgling communist squadrons originated from amongst the Tsar's flyers and so brought its uniform with them (as ever this varied greatly due to the Red Army's chronic issues of supply). This archetypally consisted of a black side cap or peaked cap piped in red - this being the service cap of the Imperial air force - but khaki peaked caps were also worn with captured British caps being especially coveted; both gymnastiorkas and 'French' tunics were worn by airmen, often in the air service's dark blue; breeches were black with red piping whilst footwear consisted of either black riding boots or a combination of leather breeches and shoes which could vary in colour from one another.

In the air leather flying clothing would be worn: leather flying helmets and goggles of all imaginable kinds were used but with the brown leather M1914 flying helmet being most common; black leather jackets especially the M1914 pilot's jacket, with its red-piped black cloth collar and two rows of six silver buttons, were worn as well as sometimes the French Air Service's horizon blue thigh-length flying coat (some aviators served in France during the Great War).

Air service insignia, much like the other branches, began as a continuation of the old Imperial emblems: Whilst some pilots wore the red star on their caps, more common were the old shoulder board branch emblems either the M1914 brass or oxidised-silver propeller with wings (nicknamed the utka or duck) or the old Imperial double-headed eagle badge clutching sword, flaming grenade, and propeller with the crown removed (derided as the kuritsa or chicken); these could also be worn pinned onto the Red Army chest badge or as designs seen on sleeve patches; on flying helmets would be worn the M1913 double-headed eagle over propeller badge with the crown above replaced with the red star; upon belts could be worn dirks, essentially the badge of the Imperial air force; fashionable among those who flew there was the practice of wearing French pilot's insignia.

Armour

1918-1922

Sleeve patch of a motorised unit commander.

Civil war uniforms for armoured units, just as it was during World War 1, were defined by the rich use of black leather. Service caps with larger than normal crowns and squared visors in either leather or olive-khaki cloth were worn however, so were more typical caps of less exaggerated proportions; when not in use, goggles would often be worn across the band of these caps. In addition to service caps, black leather budenovkas were also sometimes seen. The effectively universal garment was a black leather jacket which could be of any type or cut but with the most common being the 1912 issue double-breasted 'Swedish' jacket (the imperial air service jacket was used by some) under which was worn a gymnastiorka. Below the belt were worn leather or cloth breeches with leather jack boots or boots with gaiters of varying shades of leather.

Although at this time a part of the engineers (they would become their own distinct branch in 1922), armoured troops much preferred their own distinct insignia with its motifs inherited from the Imperial Army. These sleeve badges varied between armour sub branches, and in some cases within, but common were designs of the Imperial armour's wheels, wings and machine gun emblem (in some cases the exact same badges that were used on shoulder boards) whilst the same but with a steering wheel rather than a machine gun (also a tsarist badge) could be seen as well. Armoured train insignia typically took the form of combinations of railway, artillery, and machine-gun emblems or sleeve patches depicting the crew's train with its name and/or number.

Cavalry

1918-1922

An example of a non-regulation cavalry sleeve badge. Such horse's head and shoe designs were very popular leading to great difficulty in replacing them with the regulation badge in 1920.

In the civil war years, the uniforms worn by most cavalrymen varied only slightly when compared to the other branches: A carbine and sabre or shashka was carried, bandoliers were common whilst dark blue breeches were sometimes seen, and stirrups were worn over boots. In addition to these, a cavalry variant of the 1919 issue kaftan was also introduced (8 April) which only differed in having an open slit down the back of the skirt starting 14cm below the waist. A branch arm badge was also introduced in 1920.

Cossack uniforms (1918-1920)

These Cossacks, though in Imperial service, would show a good example of the typical Red Kuban if not for the shoulder boards, tsarist medals, and lack of Red Army insignia.

A Cossack's uniform varied depending upon which host he originated from and seemed to have been a continuation of the old Imperial uniform but with the appropriate changes of insignia. Cossacks of the Kuban Host wore their traditional garb: a short black fleece hat (kubanka) with red crown; a red service or drab-coloured linen shirt (beshmet) over which would be worn a drab-coloured, sleeved, ankle-length robe (cherkeska) with a deep v-neck and 7-11 decorative cartridge tubes (gaziry) on each breast which were a traditional indicator of rank (these would sometimes be used to carry ammunition and modified to show off the bullets of rifle stripper clips in a way that was trendy during World War 1); dark blue breeches which were piped red; soft leather, heelless boots which would be worn without strirrups as Cossacks traditionally used a short leather whip (nagaika) to drive their mounts (although conventional boots and stirrups may also have been worn); a red or drab-coloured bashlyk hood; and a decorative black leather belt with dangling straps and silver chased ornamentation from which would hang a kindzhal dagger and a shashka sabre.

Don Cossacks wore a much more conventional uniform: khaki gimnastyorkas; tall black fleece hats with red crowns or leather peaked caps with dark blue crowns, red bands as well as red crown piping; and lastly loose, dark blue trousers with wide red stripes down the outer seams tucked into jackboots.

The Orenburg Cossacks, combining the Kuban and Don styles, wore khaki gimnastyorkas but with decorative cartridge tubes. Along with these were worn dark blue, leather peaked caps with light blue bands and crown piping as well as dark blue, loose trousers with wide light blue stripes with boots.

The 'Red Hussars' (1918-1921)

Commissar Trotsky and Commander Yegorov review the cavalry troops (1919). The troopers wear hussar uniforms, including dolmans.

Although most cavalry units wore fairly unremarkable uniforms, this was not wholly the case: vividly coloured and distinctive garments could be seen amongst some cavalrymen, who scavenged from the old Imperial storehouses of the Hussar regiments. Foremost amongst these units was the Zavolzhskaya Brigade of Red Hussars of the 14th Cavalry Division otherwise known as Vatman's Red Hussars Brigade. The Brigade, consisting of three regiments, wore the parade uniforms of both the 1st Sumskoy and 3rd Elisavetgradsky Hussar regiments. This uniform consisted of a light blue dolman upon which were yellow tunic cords and brass buttons, the shoulder-knots (a tsarist indicator of rank) were removed; red chakchiry breeches with yellow piping down the sides tucked into cavalry jackboots with the hussar rosette in brass on the fronts; The peaked cap was also light blue with yellow piping on the crown as well as above and below the band which varied in colour depending on from which Hussar unit it originated from: the 1st Sumskoy's was scarlet whilst the 3rd Elisavetgradsky's was white. The peak of these caps was black leather and smaller than those of the army service caps, often being worn crumpled in the fashion of the time. Instead of dolmans, commanders would wear the more conventional french tunics along with the proper rank insignia. Some of the Red Hussars, in lieu of red stars, would wear on their caps a metal badge consisting of a silver horseshoe behind two silver crossed sabres which in itself was superimposed by a gold horse's head. Regimental musicians would have worn gold lyres rather than stars as well. Some squadrons would also have had lances with two-colour pennants.

Although the Red Hussars are the most well known unit to wear such uniforms, they were not the only one. The 10th Kuban Cavalry Division's 55th 'Narva' Cavalry Regiment had a uniform which varied from Vatman's Brigade only in having white piping, tunic cords, and metal fittings as well as a yellow cap band which had all originally belonged to the 13th Narvsky Hussar regiment. Another unit was the 21st Rifle Division's Independent Cavalry Battalion which wore the orange caps and dolmans, blue cap bands, red breeches, and white piping and cords of the 15th Ukrainian Hussar Regiment however, brown busbys with light blue bags and white metal chin-scales would also have been worn.

General Staff

1919-1922

A General Staff Academy graduate (1919). He wears the pea green field kaftan and budenovka.

In 1919 the Red Army's General Staff received its own, rather eccentric, uniform. It consisted of a scarlet service cap and riding breeches, both piped yellow, originating from the old Lifeguard Hussar Regiment stockpile; a dark crimson 1919 issue tunic with black velvet chest tabs, cuffs, and left sleeve star; silver aiguillettes on the right shoulder and spurred jackboots. This garb was woefully unpopular with staff members, who saw it as pompous. Some refused to wear the crimson tunic and instead gave them away to the seamstressing of their wives to be made into ladies' jackets. Conveniently, the aiguillettes came to be 'short in supply'. The hat and breeches became somewhat popular however and would be worn alongside a khaki shirt with the previous black velvet affects if not with the crimson one. The service uniform also included a crimson 1919 issue greatcoat with black velvet collar, chest tabs, pocket flaps, cuffs, and sleeve star all piped light green.

General Staff Academy graduates (1919). They wear the field kaftan but with service caps instead of budenovkas.

The field uniform added a knee-length, open-collared kaftan of high quality pea green material with black velvet collar, razgovory, pocket flaps, cuffs, and sleeve star, all piped crimson. Rows of metal edging topped with loops were sometimes worn on the collar and cuffs, 1-4 gold stripes for general officer equivalents and 3-4 silver stripes for field officer equivalents. A pea green budenovka with a black velvet star piped crimson and black velvet buttons completed this dress.

Guards and Security

The Red Sotnia (1918-1922)

Commissar of War Leon Trotsky (left) with a member of the Red Sotnia.

Rudolf Augustovich Peterson. He wears a white civilian papakha with an otherwise typical Red Sotnia uniform sans arm badge.

Serving as both train crew and personal guard of Commissar of War Trotsky, the Red Sotnia's (or Red Hundred's) uniform was made up of distinctive red leathers. By 1919, Budenovkas, jackets, trousers, and jackboots all in red leather were worn as well as a badge worn on the left sleeve: a silver shield embossed with a steaming train imposed over the Sun's rays, a red streak across it in enamel reads 'Revvoyensoviet' whilst more enamel across the top states 'RSFSR', both in Cyrillic.

Military Commissars

1918-1922

Army commissars wore much the same as red commanders with the exception of the 1918 and 1919 rank insignia. If a commissar wore a distinguishing mark, this would be in the form of a large red star edged gold on the left sleeve containing either the hammer and plough or the hammer and sickle.

Military Schools

1918-1922

Three Red Army cadets (1919-1920). Note their unique star badges, off to one side and being either embroidered or made of metal wire woven into the cap. They wear cavalry greatcoats, implying their belonging to a cavalry commander's school. Atypically, their caps are a simple khaki rather than the cadet's dark green.

Red cadets, continuing a theme, took from old stores to assemble their uniforms, although not without some modifications being made. The khaki side caps so abundant in warehouses became the standard headwear for cadets which was now dyed dark green. Additionally, piping and a pill-shaped patch on the right side of the cap in branch-colour were added with the pill having one or two brass buttons to fasten the black leather chin-strap that stretched across the top. As ever the red star or an old metal shoulder badge was worn on the cap. Besides this cadets wore standard-issue uniforms but of higher quality with any greatcoats being worn typically having collar patches upon which was a brass button and a branch badge.

Some schools, especially those stationed in Petrograd, were required to participate in regular parades. In these formative years of the Soviet state, such units would make use of the parade uniforms of the old lifeguard regiments and military academies however, these were not always supplied as full sets with jarring combinations being on display. The ornate Tsarist shakos and czapkas worn in such ensembles would be suitably sovietised with red stars and paint in place of eagles.

Due to the Red Army's frankly now iconic issues of supply, suitable footwear was in short number for cadets (as it was for a vast sum of the army) and so there were cases of cadets on field exercises borrowing the footwear of those who remained within school barracks.

Cavalry Commander's schools (1918-1920)

Cadets of the 1st Tver Soviet Cavalry Commander's School were known to wear the opulent 'gala' uniform of imperial cadets of the old Tverskoy Cavalry College. This consisted of a black czapka with light blue and silver accents and a white plume; a dark green tunic with a light blue cloth panel at front and silver buttons and stitching at cuff and collar; a dark green and light blue striped belt and blue breeches tucked into riding boots that cover the knee. However this was not their everyday wear: a peaked or peakless service cap with dark green band and light blue crown with dark green piping was worn; khaki gymnastiorka and sharovari breeches; cavalry jackboots; and a cavalry greatcoat with light blue collar patches piped dark green.

Another example of cavalry cadets wearing such fanciful garb would be the Life Guard Hussar Regiment uniforms worn by attendants of the 1st Petrograd Soviet Cavalry Commander's School. This took the form of a brown busby with white plume, a scarlet dolman, blue breeches, and a white pelisse all with yellow cords; sabretaches were discarded.

Infantry Commander's School (1918-1920)

Once graduated, the cadets of these schools would shed their uniforms for a new one: a commander's light grey peaked cap, black gymnastiorka, blue, blue-grey, or khaki breeches, and jackboots. Chevrons with the school or branch emblem were sometimes worn on the left sleeve.

Cadets of the Kremlin Machine Gun School of Command Staff (1920). Their caps lack both the piping and the green fabric of the regulation cadet uniform. Many of them wear the M1918 Red Army badge on the left breast, whilst one cadet (front and far left) wears a Tsarist machine gunner's shoulder board badge instead.

Unit insignia

Unit	Image	Dates of use	Notes	Worn	Material(s)
Bashkir Cavalry Division/Brigade		1919-1921?	A cloth red star and crescent on a dark green diamond as worn by the Bashkir Cavalry Division (later reorganized as a brigade). Sometimes the star and crescent was instead embroidered in gold wire with the diamond being bordered in the same (possibly for officers). It was also worn without the green diamond.	Upper left sleeve.	Cloth on cloth or gold wire on cloth.
Taman Army		1918- n/a	The Taman Army's chevron was introduced in September 1918, no later than the 26th, by Yepifan Kovtyukh for his 1st Column (one of three in the army). On 10 October, now commander of the whole army, Kovtyukh had the chevron apply to all columns. The patch was meant to commemorate the army's breakout through enemy lines and was, unlike in many other units at this time, very strict in its presentation (commanders would not allow any unofficial modifications). The chevron was officially '22.3 cm long and 4.5 cm wide'.	Upper, middle, or lower left sleeve.	Cloth

Soldiers of the Bashkir Cavalry Division. One of them (far right) wears the unit's sleeve patch without the diamond backing.

Gallery

An example of a non-regulation artillery sleeve badge consisting of gold embroidery on black cloth. Such badges were often based on Tsarist insignia, in this case the artillery branch's crossed cannons.

Two division commanders and a commissar sitting far left, far right, and centre left respectively (1921). Note how even amongst senior commanders insignia is varied or lacking: the first commander wears only an Order of the Red Banner, an award, to denote his allegiance whilst the commissar a seat along wears nothing that implies his loyalties let alone his position.

An example of an unofficial variation of the 1919 rank insignia. This regimental commander's patch (as indicated by the four squares) is made of embroidered gold wire on a red cloth backing although in this case the colour has faded with age. Take note of the use of the hammer and plough rather than the hammer and sickle.

References

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