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Penha de França

Coordinates: 38°43′44″N 9°07′52″W / 38.729°N 9.131°W / 38.729; -9.131
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This article is about the place in Portugal. For the place in Goa, see Penha de França, Goa.
Penha de França
Civil parish
Clockwise: Palace of the Marquises of Nisa; National Museum of the Azulejo;Jazigo dos Viscondes de Valmor;Alto de São João Cemetery; Manueline portal; Penha de França Church
Coat of arms of Penha de França
Coat of arms
Coordinates: 38°43′44″N 9°07′52″W / 38.729°N 9.131°W / 38.729; -9.131
Country Portugal
RegionLisbon
Metropolitan areaLisbon
DistrictLisbon
MunicipalityLisbon
Area
 • Total2.71 km2 (1.05 sq mi)
Population
 (2021)
 • Total28,475
 • Density11,000/km2 (27,000/sq mi)
Time zoneUTC±00:00 (WET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+01:00 (WEST)
Websitehttp://www.jf-penhafranca.pt/

Penha de França (Portuguese pronunciation: [ˈpɐɲɐ ðɨ ˈfɾɐ̃sɐ]) is a freguesia (civil parish) and typical quarter of Lisbon, the capital city of Portugal. Located in the historic center of Lisbon, Penha de França is north of São Vicente, east of Arroios, south of Areeiro, and west of Beato. The population in 2021 was 28,475.[1]

History

[edit]
Madre de Deus Convent.

The Madre de Deus Convent was founded in 1509 by Queen Leonor of Viseu, wife of D. João II.

On the other hand, the Convent of Penha de França, founded in 1598, lends its name to this parish. Its territory originated from medieval parishes: Santo Estêvão de Alfama, Santa Justa, and Olivais, within Lisbon's jurisdiction. Perched at 110 meters above sea level, it offers sweeping city views. It also houses works by Portuguese painter Pedro Alexandrino de Carvalho [pt], as well as being a resting place for many members of the Portuguese nobility, such as D. Inês de Távora, wife of Francisco de Távora.

Azulejo depicting the convent of Santos-o-Novo in early 18th-century

In 1609, another convent was built, Santos-o-Novo, near the banks of the river Tagus. The structure was erected where once stood the monastery dating from 1470, built under the reign of D. João II.[2][3][4]

Convent of Santos-o-novo, 1900 ca.

Penha de França's traditions include the "Procissão do Ferrolho" (lit. Bolt Procession) a nighttime event where doors were knocked with a ferrolho (latch) to awaken the devout.[5]

In the 16th century, residential areas emerged around the convents, the Royal Palace, and the Mitra Palace (in Beato). In the 17th century, development centered around the Church of Penha de França and the Convent (now the General Command of the PSP, - Polícia de Segurança Pública).

The 1755 earthquake led to the abandonment of many estates (Pina, Coxo, and Bacalhau, among others) and manors (Gadanho, Peixinhos, Alto da Eira, Santo António, and Machada) who were built in the area by Portuguese nobility.

Alto de São João cemetery

Commissioned by Queen Maria II in 1833 following a cholera epidemic in Lisbon, the Alto de São João Cemetery served as the city's cemetery for over a century, honoring its most distinguished figures.

During the 19th century, factories sprang up in the valleys of Chelas and Xabregas, although the parish as a whole maintained a rustic character, especially in the areas far from the river. In fact, it remained a favored area for Lisbon residents to stroll, as described by Almeida Garrett in his 1846 work "Viagens na Minha Terra [pt]" (lit. Travels through my land).

In its current territory, spanning from the Tagus River to the Penha de França hill, there have been populated areas for centuries along the riverbanks near the convents of Madre de Deus and Santos-o-Novo and around the Penha de França hermitage, later becoming a convent with the same name (now the General Command of the PSP). Despite these settlements, until the late 19th to early 20th centuries, the area remained predominantly rural, situated on the outskirts of Lisbon, characterized by open fields, vegetable gardens, estates, summer residences, and monasteries.[6]

Drawing of Xabregas viaduct dating from 1857

In 1854, the Viaduto de Xabregas [pt], serving Linha do Norte—the most important railway line in Portugal—was built. The structure consists of two sections - one with stone arches and the other with metal beams. The metal section, built in 1854 and designed by John Sutherland and Valentine C. L., had a span of 15.60 meters, while the stone arch section is about 36 meters long. The metal beams were replaced in 1954.[7]

View of Penha de França in 1857, by Tomás da Anunciação

Portuguese Romantic artist Tomás da Anunciação painted Vista da Penha de França [pt], a notable landscape painting of 1857 housed in the National Museum of Contemporary Art. The work contributed to Anunciação's appointment as a permanent professor. The painting depicts a rural view of mid-19th-century Lisbon, highlighting the old convent on the hill of Penha de França, framed by trees, oxen, and a peasant woman. It was part of the former National Museum of Fine Arts and Archaeology's collection since 1884.

In 1891 the former Caracol da Penha was renamed Rua Marques da Silva [pt] to honor João Marques da Silva, a local merchant who contributed to its expansion. It is one of the oldest streets in the parish, having been known as Calçada da Penha de França since at least 1710.[8]

Twentieth century

[edit]

Vila Cândida, constituted of 140 apartments across 35 two-story buildings and constructed by Cândido Sotto Mayor, was built in 1912. The vila would be later be given by Elsa Sotto Mayor Matos to the dwellers in 1974, following the revolution.[9][10]

In 1916 the former "Travessa do Caracol da Penha" was renamed Rua dos Heróis de Quionga [pt] (lit. Quionga heroes street) to commemorate the fighters who, during World War I, recaptured the Quionga [pt] post and the Quionga Triangle from the Germans at the mouth of the Rovuma River in Mozambique. In fact, during the war, around 7,500 Portuguese soldier died in the African front.[11]

On April 13, 1918, the freguesia of Penha de França was officially created, with areas ceded by the neighbouring parishes of Beato, Santa Engrácia, and São Jorge de Arroios. The name of the parish comes from its patron saint, Our Lady of Penha de França. On the first census, the parish (that at the time also comprised Alto da Pina, now part of Areeiro) had a population of 12,555 of whom 1.12% were foreigners, 51.75% were females and 52.97% were literate.[12]

Typical ''varanda fechada'' in Rua cidade de Liverpool

In the 1920s the neighbourhoods of Andrade, Inglaterra (lit. England) and Colónias (lit. colonies) were built. The "English neighbourhood's" name is due to it hosting many streets named after English cities such as Manchester, while the "Colonies' neighbourhood" is named after its streets, reminding names of former Portuguese colonies, such as Timor. On the other hand, Andrade is a Portuguese surname and the neighbourhood owes its name to the family of the entrepreneur who urbanised that part of the city, naming the streets after his wife and daughters.[13]

The first crematorium in Portugal was built in the parish and opened in 1925; it closed in 1936 due to political pressures. The crematorium, in the Alto de São João Cemetery, was reopened in 1985.[14] Many people have been cremated here in the years since, including Nobel Literature laureate José Saramago, Álvaro Cunhal and Sónia Neves [pt].

Since 1929 an EPAL warehouse has been present in the Miradouro da Penha de França.[15][16][17]

Street view of Vila Cândida, a rorker's village (vila operária) dating from the late XIX century

In 1930, the Avenida General Roçadas [pt] was named after José Augusto Alves Roçadas, officer of the Portuguese Army and a colonial administrator. It is one of the main avenues of the parish and on its side is located one of the largest workers' villages in Lisbon: Vila Cândida, dating from the late 19th century.[18][19][20] In the same year, the census of the population recorded 22,226 inhabitants in the parish, a +77.03% increase since 1920. Amongst residents, 1.27% were foreigners, 55.01% were females and 58.17% were literate.[21]

The parish continued to get more and more inhabitants, registering a demographic growth of 73% between 1930 and 1940. During this period, the Avenida Afonso III [pt] (lit. Afonso III avenue) opened to the public in 1932.[22][23]

In 1935 the Quartel da Penha de França was the site of an attempted revolt against Salazar's regime by the Movimento Nacional-Sindicalista, a fascist (as defined by Stanley G. Payne) movement. After the failed coup, the movement's leader Francisco Rolão Preto was exiled and fought in the Spanish Civil War on Francisco Franco's side.

According to the 1940 census, the parish had 38,455 inhabitants, a +73.02% increase since 1930. Amongst residents, 1.27% were foreigners, 52.48% were females and 67.42% were literate. Moreover, according to the census (the only one since 1900 inquiring about religion), 83.83% of the population was catholic (86.05% in Lisbon).[24] Interestingly, as of 2021 881 residential buildings (or 36.33% of the parish's total buildings used for residential purposes) were built between 1919 and 1945, coinciding with the demographic boom of this area of Lisbon.[25]

Azulejos adorning a house façade, a common view in the parish of Penha de França

In 1943 the Regimento de Artilharia Antiaérea N.º 1 [pt] was created in the parish. It is the unit within the Componente Fixa do Sistema de Forças (CFSF) [pt] with the mission of organizing, training, and maintaining the operational anti-aircraft artillery units of the Portuguese Army. It was later (1948) transferred to Queluz, where it has been hosted ever since, in barracks adjacent to the Palace of Queluz.[26]

During 1948 the Avenida Infante Dom Henrique [pt] (lit. Prince Henry the Navigator avenue) opened. It is the largest avenue in Lisbon, stretching for 12 km along the river and passing through 7 parishes, amongst which there is also Penha de França.

The 1950 census was the last before the 1959 division of the parish in three separate entities. According to the 1950 census, the parish of Penha de França had 48,035 inhabitants, a +24.91% increase since 1930. Amongst residents, 1.27% were foreigners, 53.16% were females and 72.88% were literate. Moreover, according to the census, 90.09% of the population was Catholic (compared with 93.14% in Lisbon as a whole), an increase since 1940. With a surface of little over 3 km2 the population density of the parish stood at around 15,700 inhabitants per square kilometer, that is almost 20 times the population density recorded for Hong Kong in 1950.[27][28]

The parish was divided in 1959, creating the parishes of Alto do Pina and São João.

In 1960, João Lopes Holtreman [pt] established his first business in the parish of Penha de França, opening the "Dois Mundos" bookshop. The parish has housed the National Museum of the Azulejo since 1965 in the Madre de Deus Convent.[29] One of the last marriages celebrated in the church prior to its transformation into a museum was the one between businessman and billionaire Alexandre Soares dos Santos and Maria Teresa Canas Mendes da Silveira e Castro, in 1957.

Penha de França street view in 1977: a tram runs near a slogan stating "homes yes, shacks no"

To answer to the call for more government-fund houses after a surge in shanty towns, two residential towers, known as Torres do Alto da Eira, were built in 1973. The two towers housed people coming from nearby slums that had emerged during the 60s.[30] The towers were designed by architects Francisco Silva Dias and Antonieta Silva Dias, they house 370 people in 132 dwellings and are still owned by the municipality, the residents pay a controlled rent of €52.14 per month.[31][32][33] Due to very poor maintenance, the two towers faced the risk of being demolished in 2008 but were later deemed to be recoverable: in 2012 the city council of Lisbon invested €4.5 million for the total rehabilitation of the dwellings and of the surrounding areas.[34][35]

Street art by Daniel Eime at the feet of Alto da Eira towers, 2012

In 1975 a fire killed two people in the shanty town of Curraleira. Hosting a large Romani community and located on the eastern border of the parish (in the portion formerly part of São João), 69 shacks were also destroyed. In 2018 and 2023 two murals were painted to remember the accident. After the fire, no barracks were built in the area where the accident took place and a memorial cross was erected to honour the victim's memory. It was also in 1975 that some families built the Bairro do Horizonte, a self-built neighbourhood whose conditions were far better than the ones of those living in the sheds.[36][37][38][39][40][41][42][43]

Tinturaria Portugália was the first of many industries to go bankrupt; it failed in 1976, following a period of political instability and the independence of the last Portuguese colonies (namely Angola and Mozambique). The company had been established in the late 19th century. All major industries would end up leaving Penha de França by 2000, due to bankruptcy or relocation outside the city's boundaries.[44][45]

In 1983 the Rotunda das Olaias [pt] (lit. Olaias roundabout) opened. Further road construction resulted in the Viaduto de Santa Apolónia; this road opened in 1998 to better organise the traffic between the waterfront and the inner part of the parish, bridging the railway line "Linha do Norte".[46]

Child in a shanty town in Lisbon, second half of the XIX century

To eradicate shacks and provide everyone with access to tap water, electricity and sanitation, from 1993 the PER (Programa Especial de Realojamento) was implemented. It was estimated that in 1993 almost 40,000 people lived in shanty towns in Lisbon (or 9.1% of the city population). Between 1993 and the early 2000s more than 32,000 families and more than 132,000 people were relocated across the whole country, almost 1,000 slums were destroyed across 28 municipalities and almost 35,000 government-funded dwellings were built.[47][48] In particular, in Lisbon more than 9,000 public dwellings were built totaling an investment of over €600 million.[49] Penha de França received significant investment from the PER and it is estimated that the two neighbourhoods of Quinta do Lavrado and Bairro do Vale de Santo António, built between 2000 and 2001, house around 3,000 people, or more than 10% of the total population of the parish. In Penha de França 1,511 families were identified living in shacks in 1993: by 2001 the overwhelming majority had been relocated to public housing. By 2013 only 30 families were recorded as living in shacks in the areas designated as shanty towns twenty years earlier.[50][51]

Twenty-first century

[edit]

Starting from 2000 around 860 families were relocated in the newly built neighbourhood of Bairro do Vale de Santo António (lit. Saint Anthony valley neighbourhood) from the shanty towns of Quinta dos Peixinhos, Calçada dos Barbadinhos, Quinta do Gadanho, Vale Escuro, Quinta Júlio Moreira and Alto da Eira. The complex was finished in 2000 and comprises 58 buildings hosting 744 dwellings. There are 2,083 estimated dwellers, with each family paying a controlled rent of €95.71 per month.[52] The shanty towns were completely demolished shortly after the relocation was completed. There were also cases of families relocated elsewhere, such as people from Quinta dos Peixinhos being given a home in Algueirão-Mem Martins.[53][54][55][56]

Satellite image of Curraleira in 1995, with the still shanty town visible

In November 2001 Curraleira [pt] neighbourhood was demolished. It was a shanty town hosting around 560 families until the late 1990s whose first inhabitants arrived in the 1930s but which experienced significant growth only after 1960, when a source of drinking water was installed in the neighbourhood.[57][58][59][39][60][61] According to 1992 estimates, there were still 2,500 people living in the shanty town, occupying around 800 sheds. The slum suffered from lack of most basic amenities such as tap water or access to electricity and many children were not enrolled in any educational system. There was also a dependency on social assistance, often insufficient for basic needs.[62][63][64][65] The shanty was also a major hub for drug smuggling in Lisbon, a city dealing with a surge in heroin and cocaine consumption.[66][67][68] Comprising makeshift dwellings of wood, zinc, and masonry, lacking basic amenities, the area was classified as Priority Neighborhoods and Intervention Areas by the Lisbon City Council and were part of the EU's USER program for urban regeneration. A fire in July 2001 destroyed four shacks and underlined the importance of an immediate relocation of the residents.[69] Most families were relocated to public housing projects nearby, notably the neighbourhood of Quinta do Lavrado composed of 263 apartments over 10 buildings, completed in 2001. Many of the apartments are reportedly overcrowded, hosting around 1,000 people as of 2023.[70][53] Some residents were also relocated to social housing in Picheleira[71][72] Starting from 2018, many charitable foundations as well as associations established by local inhabitants (e.g. Geração com Futuro) has sponsored the renewal of the neighbourhood, trying to separate the name from the social stigma it carried in the 1990s.[39][73][74][75][76][77][78][79]

Ancient coat of arms of the former parish of São João, extinguished in 2013

In 2009, to celebrate the ratification of the Treaty of Lisbon, 27 trees were planted in a roundabout in the parish, symbolizing the then 27 EU countries.[80]

With an administrative reform in 2012, the parish of São João merged into Penha de França. The parish nearly quadrupled its area and more than doubled its population; the change also brought into Penha de França a small strip of land previously belonging to the parish of Beato.[81]

The dovecotes of the ancient Curraleira neighbourhood, which had been used to train carrier pigeons, were demolished in 2014 to build an electricity substation in Alto de São João.[82][83][84][85]

New spaces were added to Penha de França library during 2018, so that it had more than 5000 books open to public consultation.[86][87] During 2019, the new bus line 37B began its circulation in the parish, connecting it to neighbouring Beato. A "Street fest festival" was hosted in Alameda for a total of nine days.[88][89][90][91]

In 2020 42 Lisboa [pt] opened in the parish, the first facility offering higher education within the parish. It is an innovative school part of a wider international network and, although private, is entirely funded by sponsors as no fees are charged to students.[92]

Additional parking places were built to address demand: 160 places in Mouzinho Albuquerque avenue, more in the renovation and complete refurbishment of EB Arquitecto Victor Palla.[93][94] A new parking lot for 125 vehicles was opened in 2022.[95]

17th azulejo century panel

The parish of Penha de França hosted the 2022 celebration by the Filipino community, commemorating its independence from Spain.[96] The "biggest street art work" in Portugal was created in July 2022, decorating 3.8 km of the wall separating the bike lane in Avenida Infante D.Henrique from the port of Lisbon.[97] The parish hosted the Regador Festival in 2023, aimed at increasing green spaces in the area;[98] the new garden of Caracol da Penha opened in the same year.[99] During August 2023, 170 volunteers were mobilised in the parish to help the pilgrims hosted in local institutions for the JMJ (World Youth Day 2023).[100]

A new public health centre, Unidade de Saude de Sapadores-Graça, is expected to open in 2024. It is planned to serve around 15,000 people.[101]

Demographics

[edit]

Historical resident population (before the 2012 Administrative Reform)

[edit]
Penha de França area before and after the 2012 Portuguese administrative reform

The resident population recorded according to censuses carried over the years is shown in the following tables for both parishes that today constitute Penha de França. The ancient parish of Penha de França lost 15,640 people from 1960 to 2011 or 55.03% of its 1960 population, not having recorded a single population gain since 1960. Similarly, the ancient parish of São João lost 17,279 people or 53.22% of its population from 1960 to 2011, with major population losses recorded in the 1990s (-22.3%).

Penha de França (ancient) São João
Historical population
YearPop.±%
196028,420—    
197023,798−16.3%
198122,772−4.3%
199117,885−21.5%
200113,722−23.3%
201112,780−6.9%
Source: INE
Historical population
YearPop.±%
196032,466—    
197027,744−14.5%
198124,889−10.3%
199121,960−11.8%
200117,073−22.3%
201115,187−11.0%
Source: INE

Current resident population (before the 2012 Administrative Reform)

[edit]

The 2021 Portuguese census recorded the first demographic growth of the parish since 1960. From 2011 to 2021, the parish gained 508 people, recording a growth of +1.82%.

Former Parishes Current Parish
Parish Population
(2011)[102] 		Area
(km2)[103] 		Parish Population
in 2011 		Population
in 2021 		Area
(km2)
Penha de França (ancient) 12,780 0.68 Penha de França 27,967 28,475 2.71
São João 15,187 1.51

Demographic statistics

[edit]

Age

[edit]

The last censuses show that the parish's population is ageing at a fast pace: in 2021, 19.91% of the population was below 25 and, at the same time, almost a quarter (23.12%) of the residents were 65 or older.

Distribution of Population by Age Groups[104]
Year 0-14 Years 0-14 Years % 15-24 Years 15-24 Years % 25-64 Years 25-64 Years % > 65 Years > 65 Years %
2021 3,076 10.80% 2,593 9.11% 16,222 56.97% 6,584 23.12%

Religion

[edit]

Religion in Penha de França (Census 2021)[105]

  Catholicism (58.13%)
  Protestantism (2.77%)
  Jehovah's Witnesses and Other Christian (2.44%)
  Orthodoxy (1.36%)
  Islam (2.78%)
  Hinduism (2.00%)
  Buddhism (0.77%)
  Judaism (0.08%)
  Other religions (0.75%)
  No religion (28.92%)

The parish is predominantly catholic and 64.71% of the population aged 15 or above are followers of a Christian or Jeovah's Witness denomination as of 2021.

Around 29% of the population does not practice a religion and is thus classed as non-religious.[106]

The presence of minor religions such as Islam, Hinduism and Buddhism (5.55% of the population amongst the three) is probably[citation needed] due to an increasing community of people coming from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh or Nepal.

Immigration

[edit]

The 2021 census showed 14.93% of the population of the parish was born outside Portugal. Amongst men, foreigners were 17.34% of the total. The number of resident foreigners in Penha de França was 4250, compared to 2522 resident foreigners (9.02% of the population) in 2011. Since the foreign population increased during the decade by 1728 people, compared to a 508 increase in general population over the same timespan, the total population would have decreased for the sixth census in a row were it not for the increase in immigration.[107]

Considering the foreign-born population, 21.16% of the parish's population was born abroad as of 2021. The most common countries of birth were Brazil (1843 people), the Indian Subcontinent (1163 people) and PALOP countries (1053 people).[108] Of the Portuguese nationals born abroad, the most common countries of birth were PALOP countries (807 people) and Brazil (523 people), all countries having ancient historical ties with Portugal as well as a rooted migration history towards the country, and who are, thus, more likely to have acquired Portuguese citizenship along the years.[109]

There were 4564 people in the parish who had entered Portugal between 2010 and the 2021 census, constituting 16.03% of the population. Of those with recent migrant background, 11.3% were Portuguese nationals returning from a period of emigration abroad.[110]

Amongst the Portuguese, 3,970 had already lived abroad as of 2021 (16.4% of the Portuguese population). The majority of those having lived in Angola and Mozambique (978 people) entered Portugal in the Seventies (637 people or 65.13%), following the independence of the two former colonies (so called retornados). Those coming from countries hosting large Portuguese emigrant communities such as France, Spain, Germany, Switzerland, Luxembourg or Belgium (871 people) have mostly entered Portugal after 1991 (77.3%), probably due to the development of the Portuguese economy since its accession to the EU. Interestingly, 41% of the Portuguese nationals having lived in the UK and residing in the parish, has left the UK after 2016, (date of the Brexit referendum).[111]

If the whole population (regardless of the nationality held) is taken into account, then 27.6% of the parish's population has already lived abroad for at least one year as of 2021, with Brazil, EU countries and Indian Subcontinent being the most commonly cited countries of previous residence.[112]

In 2023 the parish started a new service consisting in phone assistance to migrants who do not yet speak Portuguese, offering them the possibility to ask for information in their own languages. In addition, free Portuguese language courses were also introduced in 2023.[99][113]

Education

[edit]

Educational attainment of the resident population

[edit]
Santos-o-novo convent, ancient monastery now used as a student accommodation[114]

According to the last census (2021) the proportion of people in Penha de França aged 15–24 who had completed the erceiro ciclo do ensino básico (schooling up to age 14) and who were not currently enrolled in the educational system was 43.91%. This is considerably higher than in Lisbon as a whole (35.06%).[115]

In the same year, in the parish there were still 550 illiterate residents, of whom 68% were females. The proportion of residents who lacks basic literary skills has been steadily decreasing and as of 2021 stood at 2.08%; for comparison, it stood at 3.19% 10 years earlier (2011 census). The decrease in the number of illiterate people is probably due to the progressive ageing and subsequent death of the older generations, that in Portugal form the overwhelming majority of illiterates.[116][117][118]

In fact, the educational attainment of the resident population increases in younger generations. Of those aged 15 or more not having a qualification – meaning that they did not complete even basic schooling up to age 9 or primeiro ciclo - 571 (or 44.3% of the total) were older than 65; amongst those aged 15–34 the people in the same category were 261 or 20.9% of the total of those holding no qualifications. The proportion of those not holding any qualification (5.07%) or having completed schooling only up to 14 (36.55%) were markedly lower for those aged 15–34 (respectively 3.49% and 21.3%) than for those 65 or older (respectively 8.67% and 68.22%).[119] Regardless of age, the proportion of those having completed education at least up to 14 years old stood at 73.93% for Penha de França parish, lower than the value recorded for Lisbon (77.21%).[120] The proportion of those having studied up to 17 years old - thus completing the secondary school - stood at 59.53% regardless of age, an increase of 17 percentage points from 2011 data.[121] The improvement in education attainment indicators for the populations also means that the proportion of those who have not completed any educational step has decreased to 5.07% regardless of age (Lisbon as a whole: 4.24%).[122]

Economy and Social conditions

[edit]

Employment

[edit]
A Traditional Portuguese House (Drawn on tiles)

In the parish of Penha de França there are 1467 residents who, as of the 2021 census, were unemployed. Of these, 41.58% received a state-fund subsidy or pension (compared to 41.34% in the city of Lisbon).[123] The unemployment rate in the parish is considerably higher than the one recorded for Lisbon and for Portugal as a whole; unemployment in the parish stood at 10.19%, compared to 8.13% in Portugal as a whole. Statistics dealing with unemployment at the parish level are available only every 10 years, so the current unemployment rate in Penha de França is unknown.[124][125] Amongst youth aged 15–24 the unemployment rate in 2021 in the Parish stood at 20.84%; it was 9.24% for the entirity of Portugal.[126]

Turning to the working population, the 2021 census showed 12,926 residents were employed, of which 72.44% were employees and 12.32% were independent workers.[127] Below is the table showing the employment rate per age group. The low share of people aged 20–24 employed is due to the fact that many are still in education (e.g. university) while the low proportion of those in employment aged 60–64 is due to many being early pensioners.[128]

2021 Census data Age group
20-24 25-29 30-34 35-39 40-44 45-49 50-54 55-59 60-64
Share of people in employment 42.50% 73.47% 76.68% 77.11% 77.8% 78.33% 73.45% 70.11% 49.97%

Dealing with commuting, the average resident of Penha de França spent 25.16 minutes of daily commuting, 3 minutes more than the average inhabitant of Lisbon.[129]

Social conditions

[edit]
Street view of Penha de França hilly conformation

Dealing with overcrowding in the parish's households, 12.74% of the population lives in accommodations where they have less than 15 m2 per capita (8.71% for Lisbon and 5.65% in Portugal as a whole), while 29.73% live in houses with more than 40 m2 per capita (39.64% for Lisbon and 46.84% in Portugal as a whole).[130] There are 6,535.1 dwellings per km2 (3,200.5 for Lisbon and 64.9 in Portugal as a whole).[131]

43.3% of the population lives in owned dwellings as of 2021; this is markedly lower than the values recorded both for Lisbon (50.3%) and for Portugal (70%).[132] The average height of a residential building in Penha de França is 3.9 m as of 2021[133] and the average area of a dwelling stands at 75.12 m2 (with the average in Lisbon-city 93.07 m2 being and in Portugal 112.45 m2).[134]

The average monthly rent value of leased dwellings recorded in 2021 stood at €442.56, 6.01% lower than the Lisbon average in the same year (€470.87).[135] It is nonetheless important to notice that the value of the rents is quite low because of many contracts stipulated decades ago, with 20.02% (25.34% in Lisbon) of the dwellers paying less than €150/month[136] because of the rent-freezing system that was adopted in Portugal in the late twentieth century, allowing that many people, now mostly elderly, do not have to pay high rents.[137][138][139] Due to the housing crisis and inflation, in 2023 the average rent for new contracts stood at almost €13/m2 in Penha de França; for the average 75.12 m2 dwelling, rents were almost €1,000/month.[140][141][142][143][144][145]

Street view, 2020

The median price per m2 stood at €1364 for a house sold in early 2016, this value had risen to €2849/m2 in early 2021 and to €3519 in 2023, a growth of 157.99% in just 7 years. In the same period the growth of house prices per m2 in Lisbon as a whole was 117.6%, from €1875 to €4080/m2.[146] Of the 2,425 residential buildings listed in the parish, 9.65% were built before 1919, 61.53% from 1919 to 1960, 19.92% from 1961 to 1990, 4.33% from 1990 to 2000 and 2.76% after 2001. Of the buildings built before 1919 82.05% had 1 to 3 floors, while in buildings built between 1981 and 2010 the proportion of buildings with 6 stories or more is 49.68%. These newer and higher buildings tend to have an elevator: only 3.41% of homes built before 1946 have access to an elevator, this percentage ascends to 66.98% for buildings built from 1981 to 2010.[25] With regard to other amenities, 11.52% of the houses had access to air conditioning (20.98% in Lisbon), 62.92% to heating (69.62% in Lisbon) and 13.18% to a parking place (28.04% in Lisbon).[147][148][149]

Junta de Freguesia de Penha de França

At the 2021 census there were 2867 vacant dwellings in the parish.[150] Of the vacant dwellings, 1485 are vacant for rental or while being sold; 1382 are vacant for other reasons, some are abandoned, others await demolition, some are waiting resolution of conflict among heirs.[151][152][153][154][155] As of 2023, some 642 apartments are registered as "Alojamento Local", meaning they have the license to be hired on platforms such as Booking.com or Airbnb.[156]

The 2021 census also recorded 21 homeless people in the parish, of which 17 (81%) were males.[157] The parish is actively promoting initiatives aiming at helping people in homelessness; the Albergue Xabregas was created in 1999, through which around 500 people pass every year, and also provides a shooting room (sala de chuto) to help drug addicts to recover from their addiction.[158][159] Other entities offering support to the population include the Associação para a Saúde e Desenvolvimento Solidário [pt] and the Mercearia Social da Penha de França, established in 2017.[160] With the COVID-19 pandemic outbreak, aid to the resident population was enhanced. From March 2020 to May 2021 around 430 people received extra financial aid, and almost 1500 people were assisted in finding an occupation or being placed into professional training.[161][162]

Landmarks

[edit]
Nossa Senhora da Vida retabule; 16th century
Tiles dating from 1660
Tiles from 1680
Tiles Tower, Madre de Deus
Baroque altar
  • Alto de São João Cemetery: Including the Jazigo Viscondes de Valmor, it was established in 1833 during a cholera epidemic it was located in the rural outskirts and holds a diverse history. Its architecture includes works by renowned architects and anonymous builders. The cemetery pays tribute to Republican revolutionaries, features mausoleums dedicated to benefactors and women activists, and housed Portugal's first crematorium in 1925, later reactivated in 1985. People buried here include Miguel Vaz de Almada [pt] and José António do Vale [pt]. The cemetery also hosts a church (Igreja do Cemitério do Alto de São João).[163][164]
  • Ancient fountains Chafariz da Avenida Afonso III[165] and Chafariz do Alto do Pina[166], and the 1870 fountain Chafariz da Penha de França.[167][168]
  • Edifício na Rua dos Baldaques, 13: Building from 1932 that won the Eugénio dos Santos architecture prize[169]
  • Fernando Correia Martins monument: A 2019 memorial monument[170]
  • Fort Santa Apolónia or Baluarte de Santa Apolónia: built between 1652 and 1668, defended the eastern part of Lisbon. Its pentagonal design, facing east and west, includes well-preserved features like masonry walls, watchtowers, and gates. Classified as a Property of Public Interest, it was part of a riverside defensive line.[171] In 2021 it was provided with a new system of wooden ladders so as to make the access easier.[172]
  • Forte de Santa Apolónia geomonumento: In the Middle Miocene, the area around Lisbon served as an estuary for a major river, where fresh water mingled with the saltwater from the sea. Within this transitional setting, abundant in organic material, substantial populations of Gryphaea gryphoides oysters took root, with some of these oysters growing to impressive lengths of up to 40 cm.[173][174]
  • A number of Catholic churches: Igreja Paroquial de São Francisco de Assis was inaugurated in 1959[175][176][177], Igreja São João Evangelista inaugurated in 1989[178], and Priorado de São Pio X.[179]
  • Jewish Cemitery: In 1868, King D. Luís granted Lisbon's Jews permission to establish the Calçada das Lages Cemetery (now Afonso III), still the main burial site for the Lisbon Jewish Community. In 1892, the Civil Government Charter ratified the statutes of the "Guemilut Hassadim Association," offering aid in times of need and funerals, founded by Moses Anahory. Currently, around 270 people are buried there.[180][181]
  • Madre de Deus Convent and church: Founded in 1509 by Queen D. Leonor, the Convent showcases diverse architectural styles, including Mudéjar, Manueline, Mannerist, Baroque, and Revivalist. It houses the National Tile Museum, displaying a rich collection of tiles from various eras. The church's simple façade features a notable 19th-century Neo-Manueline portal. Inside, the single nave is adorned with 18th-century historical azulejos depicting the life of St. Francis, and the main chapel and choir boast 16th-century paintings framed in gilt woodwork[182]
  • Miradouro da Penha de França: An unforgettable view encompasses both the Tagus Valley, where the horizon meets the Atlantic Ocean, and the opposite direction, offering a glimpse of Alto de São João and much of both riverbanks. To the north, the distant presence of the Sintra Mountain Range can be seen[183]
  • National Museum of the Azulejo: Housed in the Convent of the Mother of God, this museum showcases Portuguese azulejos from the 15th to the 20th century, including notable pieces like the Altarpiece of Our Lady of Life and modern works[184][185][186][187]
  • Nossa Senhora da Penha de França Church and convent: The first chapel with this dedication emerged following a vow made by the visionary António Simões after the Battle of Alcácer Quibir. Construction began in 1597–98. In 1601, it was handed over to the Augustinian hermits. Between 1625 and 1635, a new temple was built to replace the previous one. It underwent several renovations, notably in the 18th century. It houses many notable azulejos. In the late XX century was created a chapel (Capela de São João Baptista) located in Avenida Eduardo Galhardo, to better serve the parishioners during the weekends.[188][189][190]
  • Painel de azulejos na fachada da Escola António Arroio: A 1999 polychrome tile panel, 1180 cm × 900 cm, by Master Querubim Lapa, graces the exterior façade of António Arroio School. It features a deconstructed, abstract design with vibrant contrasts[191]
  • Palace Diogo Cão (Palácio Diogo Cão): Currently housing the Junta de Freguesia. It is a house dating from the XVIII century, whose origins lie in the XV century but that was later restored after the 1755 earthquake.[6]
  • Palace of the Marquises of Nisa: Founded in 1543 by D. Francisco da Câmara, the second Count of Vidigueira, this building passed through various owners, including descendants of Vasco da Gama in 1634. It returned to the possession of the Marquises of Nisa in 1672 and underwent significant improvements at that time. Altered substantially from its original structure, both by the earthquake and the interventions of successive owners, it was sold to the Misericórdia de Lisboa in 1926[192]
  • Santos-o-Novo convent: Built in the early 17th century for the Order of Santiago, this imposing structure survived partial destruction in the 1755 earthquake. It includes a vast cloister, ornate chapels, and gilded woodwork[193]

Culture

[edit]
Macacaria style tiles, Museu Nacional do Azulejo

The parish hosts the Portuguese Camping and Mountaineering Federation and, on a bimestral basis, hosts the Penha de França Theme Fair.[194][195]

The parish features also three public libraries - with the last one being opened in 2015 - many cultural associations such as "Os fidalgos da Penha", Penha SCO (established in 2019) or "A goela" (established in 2015) a large municipal market, Ginásio do Alto do Pina (established in 1911) and art galleries.[196][197][198][199][200][201][202][203][96][204] Moreover, the parish organises periodical workshops or cultural events, most notably in the main library. There are also often partnerships with local cultural institutions as well as with museums.[205][206][207][208][209][210][211][212][213]

Penha de França is also very active with regards to Marchas Populares, an event celebrating Portuguese Midsummer. During this event, teams, dressed up with handmade outfits, march and dance through an open avenue or closed arena to the sound of popular music, mixing motifs of Portuguese summer culture, like "manjerico" and the sea. Penha de França participates with two teams, the homonymous "Penha de França" and "Alto da Pina".[96][214]

It is also noteworthy to mention that a picture produced in the parish entered the Venice Film Festival in 2023.[215][216]

The parish hosts many cultural events throughout the year and incentives cultural initiatives. For instance, it also created its very own superhero "Super Penhas" so as to encourage participation from kids.[217] A noteworthy social activity annually held by the parish is the Gastromomic competition "Penha à mesa", lasting around 10 days in July.[218]

Sport

[edit]

The parish holds active life in high regard and has organised many initiatives aiming at promoting a healthy lifestyle amongst the residents.[219][207][220][221]

There are several sports facilities, including:

  • Espaço Multiuso: a parish-owned space offering multiple sports courses along the year[222]
  • Piscina da Penha de França: a swimming pool dating from 1960, 12 m wide and 25 m long. It was closed in 2011 for intensive works and reopened in 2021, after an €800,000 investment.[223][224][225][226][227]

Health

[edit]

Residents of Penha de França can access medical specialties provided at the parish's Medical Center, as well as nursing support.[228] Moreover 8 pharmacies (2.8 every 10,000 residents) and a SNS counter are also found in Penha de França.[229][230]

In 2024 is envisioned the inauguration of the new "Unidade de saúde de Sapadores-Graça", a model of organization that integrates hospital centers, hospitals, and groups of health centers within a geographical area. It will have a capacity of approximately 15,200 people.[231][232]

Gardens and parks

[edit]
Jardim do Caracol da Penha entrance

The parish hosts several green spaces, notably:

  • Jardim da Praça Paiva Couceiro: 1950s garden with a children's playground, a public restroom and an esplanade, spanning over around 5,000 m2.[233][234]
  • Jardim da Praça António Sardinha: garden with a children's playground, spanning over around 2,000 m2.[235]
  • Jardim Bulhão Pato [pt]: garden with a children's playground, spanning over around 1,500 m2.
  • Jardim do Caracol da Penha [pt]: Hosting an amphitheatre, a viewpoint, a sports park and a children's playground, the park was opened in 2023. It spans over 1 hectare and hosts 25,000 species of small plants as well as approximately 250 trees.[236][237]

Moreover, 9 streets have garden benches and recreational areas.[238]

Transportation

[edit]

The parish is served by a vast network of public transportation means, including tramways, buses, and trains.

Tramway

Tramway in Penha de França

Penha de França is among the parishes served by tram 28E [pt], which is one of the most renowned tourist attractions in Lisbon. Two of its 35 stops are located in the parish: Rua Angelina Vidal and Sapadores.[239][240]

As of 2023, there were plans for a new line connecting Santa Apolónia to Amadora, passing through Penha the França and serving the parish with 4 stops. However, there are no definite plans nor dates for the start of the construction.[241]

Bus

The bus network is quite extended, encompassing most of the parish's streets.

Train

There is a train line passing through the parish, dividing the riverbanks (where part of the port of Lisbon is located) from the rest of the parish. Despite this, there are no train stops in Penha de França. There are only two ways to get to the riverfront, with both ways being located on the boundaries of Penha de França. These are:

  • Rua Bispo de Cochim Dom Joseph Kureethara: The street passes under the Xabregas viaduct and serves as a boundary between Penha de França and Beato.[242] The name honours the homonymous Indian bishop who died in 1999.
  • Viaduct of Av. Mouzinho de Albuquerque: The street passes over the railway due to a bridge built in the late 1990s. It serves as a boundary between Penha de França and São Vicente.[243] The name honours the homonymous Portuguese general who died in 1902.

Headquarters and Branches of the Parish Council (Junta de Freguesia)

[edit]
  • Headquarter (Penha de França)—Travessa do Calado, 2
  • Social and Health Development Center (Polo de Desenvolvimento Social e Saúde) - (São João) - Avenida Marechal Francisco da Costa Gomes, loja 13

Notable people

[edit]
Crematorium Alto de São João, the first in Portugal

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[edit]
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