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{{Infobox Fashion Designer |
{{Infobox Fashion Designer |
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|image= [[Image:John Galliano Image at Design Museum.jpg|235px|]] |
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|image= |
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|caption= ''John Galliano Image at Design Museum'' |
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|caption= |
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|name=John Galliano |
|name= John Galliano |
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|nationality=British |
|nationality= [[British people|British]] |
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|birth_date={{Birth date and age|1960|11|28}} |
|birth_date={{Birth date and age|1960|11|28}} |
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|birth_place=[[Gibraltar]] |
|birth_place= {{flagicon| Gibraltar}} [[Gibraltar]] |
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|death_date= |
|death_date= |
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|death_place= |
|death_place= |
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|education=[[Central Saint |
|education= [[Central Saint Martins]] |
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|label_name=John Galliano |
|label_name= John Galliano |
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[[Christian Dior]] |
[[Christian Dior]] |
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|significant_design= |
|significant_design= |
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|awards= British Fashion Designer of the |
|awards= ''[[British Fashion Awards|British Fashion Designer of the Year]] for 1987, 1994, 1995 and 1997.'' |
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|}} |
|}} |
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'''Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano''' better known as John Galliano was born in 1960, in Juan Carlos, Gibraltar of Spanish parents Anita and Juan Carlos Galliano, is a British-Spanish, fashion designer member of the Royal Designers for Industry. In 1966 his parents emigrated to London with Juan and two daughters. He attended Wilsons Grammar School and excelled in languages. While doing his A levels, he took up textiles and put together a portfolio to present to St. Martins College of art. He was accepted. |
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'''John Galliano''', [[Order of the British Empire|CBE]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]], (born [[November 28]] [[1960]]) is a [[Spanish people|Spanish]]-[[Gibraltarian people|Gibraltarian]] [[fashion designer]]. |
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He experimented with bias cutting, reviving and refining it. He worked with Tommy Nutter, in Savile Row, London's famous tailors street. He noticed that sleeves swung forwards, as if cut on the curve, so that you could really move your arms. He began cutting sleeves in a spiral so that his armholes could be neat and even cut trousers on the bias to make legs look slender. |
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==Early life and career== |
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Born '''Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano Guillén''' in [[Gibraltar]] to a [[Gibraltarian people|Gibraltarian]] father and a [[Spanish people|Spanish]] mother, he moved to [[London]] as a child and attended [[Wilson's School]] in [[Wallington, London|Wallington]]. In 1984, he graduated in [[fashion design]] from [[Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design|St. Martin's School of Arts]], with a collection inspired by the [[French Revolution]] called ''"Les Incroyables"'', that received positive reviews and was bought in its entirety and sold in the London fashion boutique "Browns". Following that, he started his own label under his name and began his career as a fashion designer. He was awarded [[British Designer of the Year]] in 1987, 1994 and 1995. In 1997, he shared the award with [[Alexander McQueen]], his successor at [[Givenchy]]. Fashion guru [[Susannah Constantine]] has worked for Galliano in the past.<ref>''[http://observer.guardian.co.uk/comment/story/0,6903,864290,00.html Just a couple of swells]'' — observer.guardian.co.uk</ref> and he has also aided the future success of other designers including the renowned shoe designer [[Patrick Cox]]. |
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During 1983 at the Victoria and Albert Museum costume archives,they allowed John to spend time sketching and examining dresses by Vionnet and other classic designers and he kept this research secret. |
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==Career== |
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In the 1990s, Galliano relocated to [[Paris]] in search of financial backing and a strong client base. In 1995, he was appointed as the designer of [[Givenchy]] by [[Bernard Arnault]] owner of luxury goods congolmerate [[LVMH]], thus becoming the first British designer to head a French [[haute couture]] house. Less than two years later, on October 14, 1996, LVMH moved Galliano to [[Christian Dior]]. His first couture show for Dior coincided with the label's 50th anniversary, on January 20, 1997. |
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In 1984 his graduation collection at St. Martins was 8 garments called "Les Incroyables" a fantastic, impeccably produced series of garments based on French Revolutionary garments of the 1790's. Joan Burstein of Browns, snapped up all the dresses and put them in her window. They sold out at once, one was bought by singer Diana Ross. John was offered a job in New York, but just as he was leaving, Joan Burstein called him for a repeat order. He and his friends made the garments at top speed and he was on his way to success. |
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He has been quoted as identifying his love of [[theatre]] and [[femininity]] as central to his creations – "my role is to seduce" he has said. Galliano has reputedly cited [[Charlize Theron]] as a [[muse]] and has been creating couture dresses for her to wear to red carpet events such as the [[78th Academy Awards|2006 Academy Awards]] and the [[62nd Golden Globe Awards|2005 Golden Globes]]. She is also part of the ad campaign for Dior's "J'Adore" perfume, while [[Riley Keough]], granddaughter of [[Elvis Presley]], fronts his "Miss Dior Cherie" perfume, and [[Kate Moss]], in photographs by [[Nick Knight]], his ready-to-wear campaigns. [[Cate Blanchett]] and [[Nicole Kidman]] have also worn dresses created by him to the [[Academy Awards]] in the past. |
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In 1985 while designing clothes for the album cover of Malcolm McLaren's Madame Butterfly, he met Amanda Grieve (later Lady Harlech) who was a fashion stylist noted for originality. They worked together on a series of exotic collections with names like "Afghanistan repudiates Western Ideals" and "Fallen Angels" or "Blanche du Bois" or "Lucid Game". She has remained his great friend and a muse who takes an active part in his creative process, accessorising his extraordinary clothes with frail twiggy birdsnest hats and shoes like 18th century. |
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Currently, between his own label and Dior, Galliano produces six couture and ready-to-wear collections a year and a new mid-season range under his own name "G Galliano". |
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In 1986 Galliano created a scissor dress cut to cross in front of the body to form a basque at the hip. In 1988 he created a disappearing lapel on a jacket, followed by an L-shaped skirt and a "winking" seam which opened at intervals to expose flesh. |
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==Personal life== |
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Galliano says he follows a rigorous exercise regime which sees him rise at 6am each morning to complete a gruelling, 40-minute aerobic session with his personal trainer, before embarking on a 10-minute stretch, doing 150 push-ups and a six-mile jog along the banks of the [[Seine River]]. "Working flat out, it was a necessary step to take," he once said. "It helps to concentrate the mind and I find that I have so much more energy and focus." In 2000, he said that he also had found his inspiration for the couture collection of [[Boho-chic|boho]]-meets-hobo chic he unveiled that January during his jogging sessions, when running past the homeless people lining the river. He added that he hoped to expose the pure decadence of couture by "turning it inside out". Similarities between Galliano and the fictional amoral fashion designer [[Zoolander#The character Mugatu|Mugatu]], with his "Derelicte" homeless fashion show, from the movie [[Zoolander]] have been pointed out by some comentators. <ref>''[http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/film/article-554533-details/Zoolander+Ben+has+last+laugh/article.do Zoolander Ben Has Last Laugh]'' — thisislondon.co.uk</ref> |
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In 1988 he was named British Fashion Designer of the Year. |
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==References== |
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{{reflist}} |
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During the late 80's, he worked out of a studio in Parsons Green, London and worked hard, sleeping under his cutting table. He found himself adrift, and packed up and left for Paris. There a friend lent him studio space and Andre Leon Talley, creative director of American Vogue, took him under his wing and introduced him to everyone important in Paris. |
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==See also== |
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* [[John Galliano's Spring-Summer 2004 Haute Couture collection]] |
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* [[List of Gibraltarians]] |
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In 1989, he started presenting collections of slinky bias cut Dresses. In 1992 John Galliano presented his "Princess Lucretia" collection with extravagant crinolines. |
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* [http://www.iqons.com/John+Galliano John Galliano - IQONS Portrait] |
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* [http://www.designmuseum.org/designinbritain/john-galliano British Design Museum] |
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* [http://www.fashion-forum.org/fashion-designers/john-galliano.html John Galliano - Biography] |
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* [http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2007RTW/review/JNGALLNO John Galliano Fall 2007 Mens Collection] |
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* [http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_start.html Galliano's Pirate jacket pattern] |
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* [http://lnx.whipart.it/news/2670/galliano-autunno-inverno2008.html Collezione Galliano AI-2008] |
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His 1994 collection was financed by John Bult, Swiss Chairman of Paine Webber International, an investment bank. It was held in the Paris mansion of Portuguese socialite Sao Schlumberger. She has been dressed by Dior and Chanel, but says "Galliano is a great designer". The show made fashion headlines and had buyers rushing to order. Galliano says "we had time to show only 17 outfits but each was perfect. |
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He did a trunk show in New York for Bergdorf Goodman and Galliano fever was at such a pitch, that super models Naomi Campbell, Lindia Evangelista and others did his show. Linda said " If I had money I'd back him." |
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In 1995, John Galliano presented his "Back to the 40's" Collection. He also dressed Diana, Princess of Wales in a dark blue lace-edged evening gown. |
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Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, owns the couture houses of Lacroix, Dior and Givenchy. The aristocratic Hubert de Givenchy had run his house for 43 years but Arnault wanted a radical update so he chose Galliano to revitalize Givenchy. Galliano and Givenchy share one thing, their dedication to their craft. Galliano tried for years to express his complex ideas of cutting and draping against great odds. Those who expected Galliano to trash Givenchy were wrong. Among daytime clothes were several homages to the old master, suits with belted jackets, one charming dress with bows on the pockets and he even named a sleek black gown "Audrey Hepburn" after Givenchy's famous client. |
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In 1996 Galliano's two collections for Givenchy were great successes. Then another surprise, after only one year, Bernard Arnault moved Galliano over to Dior. In his Autumn/Winter 1997 collection, he dresses his models in beaded dog collars going back to those worn by Queen Alexander 90 years ago. |
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====Galliano Style==== |
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[[Image:John Galliano Dress.jpg|thumb|200px|Galliano dress by Dior (Paris Haute Couture Spring - Summer 2007)]] |
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He has managed to balance fantasy and classicism, which is very difficult to achieve. Galliano raids history for ideas. From the Highlands of Scotland to the Russian steppes, from thirties style sleek evening gowns, to kilts, tulle ball gowns, farthingales, frock coats, hourglass silhouettes, even 1940's gangster garb. |
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His interpretation is unique, with a highly defined sense of the theatrical, and his technical skills are thoroughly modern. He has trained himself in the craft of fashion, not only the art. |
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His garments have a tremendous sense of romance and whimsical charm, coupled with precision tailoring. His exquisite slip dresses, floating ball gowns or exotically tailored suits, float above fashion, remarkable in their unashamed loveliness. |
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He also depends on a team of superbly artistic designers for his accessories, Stephen Jones for hats, Manolo Blahnik for shoes, Odile Gilber for hair styles and Stephenie Marais for make up. They all seem to adore him and his clothes. John also gives chances to young designers to work with him. Parisienne Vanessa Bellanger is one of his assistants at present. |
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For Spring 2001 John Galliano as always, came out with a dramatic show, getting his inspiration from cartoon characters. He made the models walk the runway in tribes in clothes with great sex appeal. |
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2001 Late in the year, John Galliano was awarded a C.B.E. by Queen Elizabeth of England, for his services to fashion. When word got out, there was great speculation as to what outrageous clothes he would wear for the ceremony. However, he was quite sober, only wearing the customary morning coat made by Brioni but without a shirt underneath. It was the eve of his 41st birthday. |
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Each collection is more sumptuous and creative than the previous one. His autumn/winter 2002 was also a wild success. The Dior look is Bohemian and reminiscent of flower-children of the 60's in multi-coloured flowing chiffon dresses. |
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* [http://www.diorcouture.com/dior.html Dior official website – Women] {{es icon}} {{en icon}} {{fr icon}} {{it icon}} {{de icon}} |
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{{Grands couturiers}} |
{{Grands couturiers}} |
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Revision as of 15:34, 27 January 2008
John Galliano | |
|---|---|
| File:John Galliano Image at Design Museum.jpg John Galliano Image at Design Museum | |
| Born | November 28, 1960 |
| Nationality | British |
| Education | Central Saint Martins |
| Label | John Galliano Christian Dior |
| Awards | British Fashion Designer of the Year for 1987, 1994, 1995 and 1997. |
Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano better known as John Galliano was born in 1960, in Juan Carlos, Gibraltar of Spanish parents Anita and Juan Carlos Galliano, is a British-Spanish, fashion designer member of the Royal Designers for Industry. In 1966 his parents emigrated to London with Juan and two daughters. He attended Wilsons Grammar School and excelled in languages. While doing his A levels, he took up textiles and put together a portfolio to present to St. Martins College of art. He was accepted.
He experimented with bias cutting, reviving and refining it. He worked with Tommy Nutter, in Savile Row, London's famous tailors street. He noticed that sleeves swung forwards, as if cut on the curve, so that you could really move your arms. He began cutting sleeves in a spiral so that his armholes could be neat and even cut trousers on the bias to make legs look slender.
During 1983 at the Victoria and Albert Museum costume archives,they allowed John to spend time sketching and examining dresses by Vionnet and other classic designers and he kept this research secret.
In 1984 his graduation collection at St. Martins was 8 garments called "Les Incroyables" a fantastic, impeccably produced series of garments based on French Revolutionary garments of the 1790's. Joan Burstein of Browns, snapped up all the dresses and put them in her window. They sold out at once, one was bought by singer Diana Ross. John was offered a job in New York, but just as he was leaving, Joan Burstein called him for a repeat order. He and his friends made the garments at top speed and he was on his way to success.
In 1985 while designing clothes for the album cover of Malcolm McLaren's Madame Butterfly, he met Amanda Grieve (later Lady Harlech) who was a fashion stylist noted for originality. They worked together on a series of exotic collections with names like "Afghanistan repudiates Western Ideals" and "Fallen Angels" or "Blanche du Bois" or "Lucid Game". She has remained his great friend and a muse who takes an active part in his creative process, accessorising his extraordinary clothes with frail twiggy birdsnest hats and shoes like 18th century.
In 1986 Galliano created a scissor dress cut to cross in front of the body to form a basque at the hip. In 1988 he created a disappearing lapel on a jacket, followed by an L-shaped skirt and a "winking" seam which opened at intervals to expose flesh.
In 1988 he was named British Fashion Designer of the Year.
During the late 80's, he worked out of a studio in Parsons Green, London and worked hard, sleeping under his cutting table. He found himself adrift, and packed up and left for Paris. There a friend lent him studio space and Andre Leon Talley, creative director of American Vogue, took him under his wing and introduced him to everyone important in Paris.
In 1989, he started presenting collections of slinky bias cut Dresses. In 1992 John Galliano presented his "Princess Lucretia" collection with extravagant crinolines.
His 1994 collection was financed by John Bult, Swiss Chairman of Paine Webber International, an investment bank. It was held in the Paris mansion of Portuguese socialite Sao Schlumberger. She has been dressed by Dior and Chanel, but says "Galliano is a great designer". The show made fashion headlines and had buyers rushing to order. Galliano says "we had time to show only 17 outfits but each was perfect.
He did a trunk show in New York for Bergdorf Goodman and Galliano fever was at such a pitch, that super models Naomi Campbell, Lindia Evangelista and others did his show. Linda said " If I had money I'd back him."
In 1995, John Galliano presented his "Back to the 40's" Collection. He also dressed Diana, Princess of Wales in a dark blue lace-edged evening gown.
Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, owns the couture houses of Lacroix, Dior and Givenchy. The aristocratic Hubert de Givenchy had run his house for 43 years but Arnault wanted a radical update so he chose Galliano to revitalize Givenchy. Galliano and Givenchy share one thing, their dedication to their craft. Galliano tried for years to express his complex ideas of cutting and draping against great odds. Those who expected Galliano to trash Givenchy were wrong. Among daytime clothes were several homages to the old master, suits with belted jackets, one charming dress with bows on the pockets and he even named a sleek black gown "Audrey Hepburn" after Givenchy's famous client.
In 1996 Galliano's two collections for Givenchy were great successes. Then another surprise, after only one year, Bernard Arnault moved Galliano over to Dior. In his Autumn/Winter 1997 collection, he dresses his models in beaded dog collars going back to those worn by Queen Alexander 90 years ago.
Galliano Style
He has managed to balance fantasy and classicism, which is very difficult to achieve. Galliano raids history for ideas. From the Highlands of Scotland to the Russian steppes, from thirties style sleek evening gowns, to kilts, tulle ball gowns, farthingales, frock coats, hourglass silhouettes, even 1940's gangster garb.
His interpretation is unique, with a highly defined sense of the theatrical, and his technical skills are thoroughly modern. He has trained himself in the craft of fashion, not only the art.
His garments have a tremendous sense of romance and whimsical charm, coupled with precision tailoring. His exquisite slip dresses, floating ball gowns or exotically tailored suits, float above fashion, remarkable in their unashamed loveliness.
He also depends on a team of superbly artistic designers for his accessories, Stephen Jones for hats, Manolo Blahnik for shoes, Odile Gilber for hair styles and Stephenie Marais for make up. They all seem to adore him and his clothes. John also gives chances to young designers to work with him. Parisienne Vanessa Bellanger is one of his assistants at present.
For Spring 2001 John Galliano as always, came out with a dramatic show, getting his inspiration from cartoon characters. He made the models walk the runway in tribes in clothes with great sex appeal.
2001 Late in the year, John Galliano was awarded a C.B.E. by Queen Elizabeth of England, for his services to fashion. When word got out, there was great speculation as to what outrageous clothes he would wear for the ceremony. However, he was quite sober, only wearing the customary morning coat made by Brioni but without a shirt underneath. It was the eve of his 41st birthday.
Each collection is more sumptuous and creative than the previous one. His autumn/winter 2002 was also a wild success. The Dior look is Bohemian and reminiscent of flower-children of the 60's in multi-coloured flowing chiffon dresses.