Edward Enninful
Edward Enninful | |
---|---|
Born | Edward Kobina Enninful 22 February 1972 Ghana |
Alma mater | Goldsmiths, University of London |
Occupation | Creative director |
Spouse |
Alec Maxwell (m. 2022) |
Edward Kobina Enninful OBE (born 22 February 1972) is a Ghanaian-born British editor and stylist who was editor-in-chief of British Vogue and European editorial director of Condé Nast.[1]
He was appointed fashion director of the British fashion magazine i-D[2] at the age of 18, a position he held for more than two decades. He was subsequently contributing fashion editor at Vogue Italia[3] and American Vogue, as well as creative fashion director at W magazine. Enninful was appointed editor-in-chief of British Vogue in 2017 but stepped down in 2023.
Early life
[edit]Edward Enninful was born in Ghana on 22 February 1972. He was the fifth of six children born to Ghana Army officer Major Crosby Enninful.[4] In 1985, after a coup d'état which deposed President Ignatius Kutu Acheampong, Enninful's family emigrated to England, settling down in the London neighbourhood of Ladbroke Grove.[5] His mother worked as a seamstress, and she inspired him with the vividly patterned colours and fabrics she used while creating clothing for her British-Ghanaian friends.[6]
At the age of 16, Enninful was spotted on a train by stylist Simon Foxton.[6] A few weeks later, he was shooting with Foxton at his house, along with Nick Knight, the cofounder and photographer of bimonthly magazine i-D.[5] By the age of 17, he had been introduced to Terry Jones, another cofounder of i-D, and soon began assisting the magazine's fashion director Beth Summers.[7] He finished college, earning a degree at Goldsmiths, University of London,[8] while juggling his modeling career[9] and assisting on shoots with Foxton and Summers. Summers left the magazine a few weeks after Enninful's 18th birthday, and Terry Jones gave Enninful the position.[10]
Career
[edit]i-D magazine
[edit]At the age of 18, Enninful's position as fashion director at i-D made him the youngest-ever fashion director for an international publication.[11] He quickly became known for his edgy elegance, which ultimately became his trademark. Much of his inspiration came from the streets: "We British have to customize our clothes, we have to be more creative, informing who you are—and I am still obsessed with the streets."[11]
For the March 2009 issue of i-D Magazine, Enninful styled "The Best British" cover story by photographer Sølve Sundsbø.[5] The issue printed 12 separate covers, each featuring one of twelve British supermodels, including Jourdan Dunn, Kate Moss, Susie Bick, Naomi Campbell, Stella Tennant, Eliza Cummings, Alice Dellal, Daisy Lowe, Twiggy, Yasmin Le Bon, Lily Donaldson, and Agyness Deyn.[5]
Italian Vogue
[edit]In 1998, Enninful became a contributing editor to Italian Vogue.[12] According to Enninful, working with Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani and photographer Steven Meisel helped him to mature as a stylist. "I always say that I was a London stylist but when I worked with Steven, I became a proper stylist."[13]
Among his achievements at Italian Vogue, one notable project that Enninful spearheaded was the production of its "Black Issue". The "Black Issue" featured only black models, including Naomi Campbell, Jourdan Dunn and Alek Wek to showcase and celebrate black models and black women in the worlds of art, politics and entertainment.[14] He described his intention as ending the "white-out that dominates the catwalks and magazines". The issue was so successful that it sold out in the U.S. and U.K. within 72 hours,[15] leading Condé Nast to print an additional 40,000 copies.[16]
Enninful also styled the magazine's June 2011 cover editorial, "Belle Vere", which exclusively featured plus-sized models including Tara Lynn, Candice Huffine, and Robyn Lawley.[17]
American Vogue
[edit]In 2006, Enninful became contributing fashion editor for American Vogue.[11] He can be seen in the documentary "The September Issue".[11]
W magazine
[edit]In 2011, Enninful became the style director at W, a high-end Condé Nast title that had struggled in the late 2000s.[18][19]
[20] Under Enninful's direction, W generated considerable attention for its editorials,[18] including the March 2012 cover shot by Steven Klein featuring Kate Moss depicted as a nun[21] as well as another cover featuring singer Nicki Minaj as an 18th-century French courtesan. For the magazine's November 2011 art issue, Enninful collaborated with Steven Meisel on a series of fake advertisements that ran throughout the magazine, including one that featured a drag queen contestant from RuPaul's Drag Race named Carmen Carrera advertising a fictitious fragrance called La Femme.
Under Enninful's direction, W began to recover.[18] The magazine's ad pages went up 16.7 percent in the year to May 2012, from 388 to 453 pages, according to Media Industry Newsletter—the biggest year-on-year gain among fashion titles.[22] Editorial Director Stefano Tonchi told The New York Times that Enninful was a big part of that success.[22]
British Vogue
[edit]Enninful was confirmed as the new editor-in-chief of British Vogue on 10 April 2017, making him the first black editor-in-chief of the magazine.[23] Condé Nast International chairman and chief executive Jonathan Newhouse announced him as the successor to Alexandra Shulman, calling Enninful "an influential figure in the communities of fashion, Hollywood and music which shape the cultural zeitgeist", adding that "by virtue of his talent and experience, Edward is supremely prepared to assume the responsibility of British Vogue".[23]
Since Enninful took the creative reins, he has reshaped a century-old publication and into a contemporary fashion platform that is more reflective of the current global audience. His efforts have led to a 51 percent increase in digital traffic since 2017[15] and attracted 140 new advertisers.[24] While other publications, including American Vogue, reduced frequency during the 2020 pandemic, British Vogue remained financially stable and continued to produce 12 issues.[15] The circulation and newsstand sales of British Vogue fell significantly during his Editorship.[citation needed]
For his first issue, Enninful made a bold statement of what the "New Vogue" would be like by featuring British mixed-race model and feminist activist Adwoa Aboah as the cover star. Covers since have featured the likes of Beyoncé, Oprah Winfrey, Rihanna, Judi Dench (at 85, British Vogue's oldest cover star), Madonna and soccer player Marcus Rashford.[15] The September 2019 edition, which was guest-edited by Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, featured on the cover 15 female changemakers, including Greta Thunberg and Jane Fonda. The issue was a quick sell-out and, according to estimates provided by Condé Nast Britain, the release of the September cover in the first 24 hours alone, generated more than double the entire PR value of Enninful's previous successful September issue, featuring pop star Rihanna.[18]
Under Enninful, British Vogue has moved into political territory. In response to comments on immigrants in the United States by President Donald Trump, Enninful created the moving video project I Am An Immigrant, gathering huge names from the worlds of fashion, music, and film to show the vital creative input of people who are immigrants in the US.[25]
For the September 2020 issue, Enninful commissioned Misan Harriman, the first Black male photographer to shoot a British Vogue cover in its 104-year history.[15] Enninful later enlisted Kennedi Carter, who became the youngest photographer in British Vogue's history to shoot a cover story for the magazine.[26]
Enninful champions diversity both on and off the pages of British Vogue. His predecessor Alexandra Shulman had an all-white editorial team. Since Enninful took the helm, the team is 25 percent people of color.[15] To continue his efforts to bring more diversity to the editorial team, Enninful has reached out to local schools, cultivating the talent pool in digital media and trying to change presumptions about who is welcome at Vogue House.[27]
Advertising
[edit]Along with his editorial work, Enninful has helped to shape the vision of numerous advertising campaigns and runway shows for many influential international fashion houses. To date, he has consulted for Comme des Garçons, Christian Dior, Dolce and Gabbana, Celine, Lanvin, Mulberry, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Fendi, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Gucci, Hugo Boss and Missoni,[28] among others.
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of Enninful's career, he collaborated with Beats by Dre and Nick Knight (photographer) to create a limited-edition line of headphones with an accompanying video entitled "The Seven Deadly Sins of Edward Enninful".[29] The film featured 8 supermodels – Kate Moss (lust), Naomi Campbell (pride), Karlie Kloss (greed), Lara Stone and Anna Ewers (gluttony), Maria Carla Boscono (sloth), Karen Elson (wrath) and Jourdan Dunn (envy) and screened on the Beats by Dre billboard in Times Square in 2016.
In 2017, Enninful made his directorial debut in a collaboration with the American brand GAP to celebrate diversity. Enninful enlisted a diverse cast spanning many industries, including Wiz Khalifa, Priyanka Chopra, Adwoa Aboah, Maria Borges, Christie Brinkley, Miles Chamley-Watson, Jonathan Groff and Alek Wek,[30] and featured the stars singing along to "Sunny" by Boney M. According to GAP the goal of the video, titled "Bridging the Gap", was "to show unity and individuality existing in tandem".[30]
Personal life
[edit]On 22 February 2022, his 50th birthday, Enninful married his long-term partner Alec Maxwell at Longleat House in Wiltshire.[31]
Enninful's memoir, A Visible Man, was published in September 2022.[32] It was "Book of the Week" on BBC Radio 4, read by the author.[33]
Recognition
[edit]- The Black Alumni of Pratt's Celebration of the Creative Spirit Award (2012)[34]
- National Magazine Feature Photography Award 2013: "Good Kate, Bad Kate" by Steven Klein (2013)[35]
- The New York Urban League's Frederick Douglass Medallion Award (2014)[36]
- BRAG Business Achievement Award (2014)[37]
- British Fashion Awards: Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator (2014)[38]
- Clio Excellence in Commercial Styling Award (2015)[39]
- Appointed Order of the British Empire for services to diversity in the fashion industry (2016)[40][41]
- Attitude Magazine’s Man of the Year (2018)[42]
- AMFAR Courage Award (2018)[43]
- CFDA Media Award (2018)[44]
- Daily Front Row Magazine of the Year (2019)[45]
- BOF Global Voices Award (2019)[46]
- Named the 6th most powerful black man in Britain in the Powerlist 2020 ranking, having made the Top 10 in both 2018 and 2019.[47]
- PPA Editor of the Year (2020)[48]
- PPA Diversity Initiative of the Year (2020)[48]
- Fashion Awards' Services to Diversity (2020)[49]
- BSME (British Society of Magazine Editors) – Editor's Editor Award (2020)[50]
- The British Fashion Awards 2020 Changemakers Award[51]
- Named the 5th on the 2021 15th edition of the Powerlist rankings, after reaching the Top 10 for four years running[52][53]
- BSME (British Society of Magazine Editors) 2021 for Editor of the Year[54]
- The British Fashion Awards for Leader of Change (2021)[55]
- The Prince's Trust Global Ambassador (2021)[56]
- British LGBT Awards: Global Media Trailblazer (2022)[57]
- The CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards: The Visionary Award (2023)[58][59]
References
[edit]- ^ Deeny, Godfrey (20 May 2021). "Emmanuelle Alt out at Vogue Paris as heads roll at Condé Nast". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 17 October 2021.
- ^ Staff, i-D. (10 April 2017). "i-D founder terry jones, naomi campbell, alexander mcqueen, and more on edward enninful's excellence". i-D. Retrieved 19 August 2022.
- ^ "Styling an Era: The Story of Edward Enninful". Google Arts & Culture. Retrieved 19 August 2022.
- ^ "Edward ENNINFUL – Personal Appointments (free information from Companies House)". Beta.companieshouse.gov.uk. Retrieved 10 April 2017.
- ^ a b c d Robinson, Sophie (14 February 2009). "The Pied Piper of Fashion". Telegraph Magazine. pp. 29–37.
- ^ a b Menkes, Suzy (10 February 2009). "An Edgy Elegance is Behind Fashion's Brit Power". International Herald Tribune. p. 17.
- ^ Michael, Christopher. "One Interview: Edward Enninful". Models.com. Retrieved 5 March 2011.
- ^ "Edward Enninful". Contributors. SHOWstudio. Archived from the original on 27 August 2011. Retrieved 5 April 2011.
- ^ Dembinska, Natalie (Winter 2010). "The Men". 10 Men (24): 108.
- ^ Marfil, Lorelei (27 October 2016). "Edward Enninful Receives OBE".
- ^ a b c d "Styling an Era: The Story of Edward Enninful – British Fashion Council". Google Arts & Culture.
- ^ Paton, Elizabeth (10 April 2017). "Edward Enninful Is Named Editor in Chief at British Vogue (Published 2017)". The New York Times.
- ^ Abraham, Tamara (10 April 2017). "British Vogue Names Edward Enninful Editor-in-Chief". The Business of Fashion.
- ^ Hudson, Jill (29 July 2016). "Vogue Italia's July 2008 Black Issue".
- ^ a b c d e f Evans, Diana (11 September 2020). "'This Is Not the Time for Tiptoeing.' How British Vogue's Edward Enninful Is Shaking Up the Fashion World". Time. Archived from the original on 7 August 2022.
- ^ Mower, Sarah (26 July 2008). "Fashion world stunned by Vogue for black models". The Guardian.
- ^ Mavrody, Nika (2 June 2011). "Plus-Size Models Cover Vogue Italia; See Tinsley Mortimer's Makeunder". theFashionSpot.
- ^ a b c d "Edward Enninful is part of the BoF 500". The Business of Fashion. Archived from the original on 7 August 2022.
- ^ "Ghana's Edward Enninful is Fashion & Style Director of W Magazine". bantudaily.com. Archived from the original on 8 June 2013. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ Donnelly, Erin (27 April 2011). "Edward Enninful to Replace Alex White at W Magazine". fashionetc.com. Retrieved 15 May 2022.
- ^ Self, Will (23 February 2012). "Good Kate, Bad Kate". W.
- ^ a b Bernstein, Jacob (17 May 2012). "An Image Maker Who Gets the Picture (Published 2012)". The New York Times.
- ^ a b Young, Sarah (10 April 2017). "British Vogue just announced their first ever black editor". The Independent. Archived from the original on 7 August 2022.
- ^ Indvik, Lauren (5 August 2019). "Edward Enninful on Vogue, Gen Z and what makes a great editor". Vogue Business. Archived from the original on 7 August 2022.
- ^ Gush, Charlotte (10 April 2017). "diversity champion and i-D family member edward enninful is the new editor of british vogue". Archived from the original on 7 August 2022.
- ^ McDermott, Kerry (30 October 2020). "Meet The 21-Year-Old Beyoncé Fan Who Became The Youngest Cover Photographer In British Vogue's History". British Vogue. Archived from the original on 7 August 2022.
- ^ Givhan, Robin (19 November 2018). "Is British Vogue editor Edward Enninful the next Anna Wintour?". Washington Post. Archived from the original on 7 August 2022.
- ^ "British Vogue: Edward Enninful has been hired as the new editor". www.bbc.com. 10 April 2017.
- ^ Hughes, Aria (22 January 2016). "Beats Celebrates Edward Enninful's Career With Nick Knight-Directed Film".
- ^ a b Cheng, Andrea (6 June 2017). "Gap's New Ad Will Make You So Happy". Glamour.
- ^ Hyland, Claire (23 February 2022). "Vogue's Edward Enninful Marries In Star Studded 'Wedding Of The Year'". Retrieved 4 March 2022.
- ^ Donkor, Michael (15 September 2022). "A Visible Man by Edward Enninful review – the long road to Vogue". The Guardian.
- ^ "A Visible Man by Edward Enninful". BBC Radio 4. Retrieved 16 September 2022.
- ^ Enninful, Edward (27 June 2012). "Pratt Institute: The Creative Spirit". W Magazine. Retrieved 28 May 2019.
- ^ "National Magazine Awards 2013 Winners Announced – ASME". asme.magazine.org. 2 May 2013. Retrieved 15 May 2022.
- ^ Steigrad, Alexandra (12 May 2014). "W's Edward Enninful Honored at Frederick Douglass Awards". wwd.com. Retrieved 28 May 2019.
- ^ Yi, David (26 October 2014). "BRAG Toasts 44th Anniversary". wwd.com. Retrieved 28 May 2019.
- ^ "Edward Enninful to be honoured with the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator". British Fashion Awards 2015. 25 November 2014. Archived from the original on 13 March 2016. Retrieved 4 June 2015.
- ^ Steigrad, Alexandra (6 May 2015). "Clio Image Awards Honor Patrick Demarchelier". wwd.com. Retrieved 28 May 2019.
- ^ Holland, Oscar (16 July 2020). "British Vogue editor was 'racially profiled' by security guard at magazine's offices". CNN. Retrieved 19 July 2020.
- ^ "Edward Enninful Receives OBE". WWD. Retrieved 4 October 2023.
- ^ "Attitude's Man of the Year, supported by Virgin Holidays: Edward Enninful OBE". Attitude.co.uk. 11 October 2018.
- ^ Turra, Alessandra (23 September 2018). "Edward Enninful Receives amfAR Award of Courage during Milan Fashion Week".
- ^ "CFDA". cfda.com. Retrieved 28 May 2019.
- ^ Manning, Charles (28 August 2019). "Announcing the Honorees of the 2019 Fashion Media Awards". Daily Front Row.
- ^ O'Connor, Tamison (23 November 2019). "BoF Honours Edward Enninful With Global VOICES Award". The Business of Fashion.
- ^ "Who's on the list of the most influential black people?". BBC News. 25 October 2019. Retrieved 15 May 2022.
- ^ a b "The PPA Awards 2020 | Winners". ppaawards.co.uk.
- ^ "Edward Enninful Is Honoured For Services To Diversity At The Fashion Awards 2020". British Vogue. Retrieved 4 October 2023.
- ^ "2020 BSME Award Winners Announced". LDNFASHION. 16 February 2021. Retrieved 18 May 2022.
- ^ "Edward Enninful Is Honoured For Services To Diversity At The Fashion Awards 2020". British Vogue. 3 December 2020. Retrieved 18 May 2022.
- ^ "Lewis Hamilton named most influential black person in UK". BBC News. 17 November 2020. Retrieved 19 January 2021.
- ^ Siddique, Haroon (17 November 2020). "Lewis Hamilton named most influential black person in UK". The Guardian. Retrieved 19 January 2021.
- ^ "Edward Enninful Accepts The Editors' Editor Award At The BSME Awards". British Vogue. 12 February 2021. Retrieved 18 May 2022.
- ^ "All the Winners from Britain's The Fashion Awards". Vogue. 29 November 2021. Retrieved 18 May 2022.
- ^ "Edward Enninful Has Been Named Global Ambassador For The Prince's Trust Group". British Vogue. 22 October 2021. Retrieved 18 May 2022.
- ^ "All The Winners At The British LGBT Awards". British Vogue. 25 June 2022. Retrieved 19 August 2022.
- ^ "The CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023". Ellen Macarthur Foundation. Retrieved 5 March 2024.
- ^ "Gucci, Valentino and Chloé among recipients at CNMI's Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023". Fashion United. Retrieved 5 March 2024.
- 1972 births
- Living people
- Alumni of Goldsmiths, University of London
- British magazine editors
- British Vogue
- British LGBTQ models
- British gay men
- British people of Ghanaian descent
- Fashion editors
- Fashion stylists
- Gay models
- Ghanaian emigrants to the United Kingdom
- Black British LGBTQ people
- Ghanaian LGBTQ people
- Naturalised citizens of the United Kingdom
- Officers of the Order of the British Empire
- People from the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea