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===Outdoor housing===
===Outdoor housing===
[[File:Rabbits at Polyface Farm.jpg|thumb|250px|Rabbits being raised on [[pasture]] at [[Polyface Farm]] ]]
[[File:Rabbits at Polyface Farm.jpg|thumb|250px|Rabbits being raised on [[pasture]] at [[Polyface Farm]] ]]
Outdoor housing for rabbits is usually designed to provide protection from predators. It must provide protection from the elements in winter and keep them cool in summer heat. Whether housed indoors or out, all rabbits should be handled properly and enrichment items such as shelves, ramps or tunnels should be provided. To protect from predators rabbit hutches should be situated in a fenced yard, [[shed]], [[barn]], or other enclosed [[structure]]. If rabbits are going to live outside in hutches, they should be housed in pairs or threes, as they are incredibly social creatures and need the company of another rabbit.

Rabbit waste can be measured in cubic yards per year. This waste is excellent for gardening and composting, and can be collected for these uses whether the rabbit is housed indoors or outdoors. An outdoor cage should be as large as possible, at least high enough for the rabbit to stand on its back legs without its head touching the ceiling. It should be large enough to enable the rabbit to take 4 or 5 hops along its length and width. Rabbits should be checked at least once each day for signs of parasites, such as [[tick]]s and [[botfly|botflies]]. The shelter may be heated in winter (although most rabbits can be kept outside with extra bedding even into temperatures well below freezing) and should be shaded or otherwise appropriately cooled in summer. Clean water must be available at all times, especially in hot weather to keep temperatures below 85 degrees. Large rabbits (such as the New Zealand breed) do fine in temperatures as low as -10 degrees Celsius/15 degrees Fahrenheit in a hutch with plenty of straw, if their needs for food and water are well met. Water cups or bottles that become frozen in cold weather must be changed two or three times daily. Below -10 degrees Celsius/15 degrees Fahrenheit it is necessary to shelter all animals in a barn or basement or garage. Covering cages three quarters of the way with a blanket, several cages grouped together, can generate a great deal of heat. One rule of thumb is at least eight pounds of animal per cage. Even newborn rabbits do well in cold if they have sufficient nest and many siblings to snuggle with. They should stay with the mother for longer periods of time in the winter for warmth. Domesticated rabbits are most comfortable in temperatures between 10 to 21 degrees C (50 to 70 degrees F), and cannot endure temperatures above 32 degrees C (90 degrees F) well without assistance such as deep shade, cold stones, frozen water bottles or fans.


-
DO NOT KEEP YOUR RABBIT OUTSIDE see http://www.rabbit.org/index.html to learn about the benefits of keeping your bunny indoors. Your rabbit will thank you!
Outdoor housing for rabbits is usually designed to provide protection from predators. It must provide protection from the elements in winter and keep them cool in summer heat. Whether housed indoors or out, all rabbits should be handled properly and enrichment items such as shelves, ramps or tunnels should be provided. To protect from predators rabbit hutches should be situated in a fenced yard, [[shed]], [[barn]], or other enclosed [[structure]]. If rabbits are going to live outside in hutches, they should be housed in pairs or threes, as they are incredibly social creatures and need the company of another rabbit.
Outdoor housing for rabbits is usually designed to provide protection from predators. It must provide protection from the elements in winter and keep them cool in summer heat. Whether housed indoors or out, all rabbits should be handled properly and enrichment items such as shelves, ramps or tunnels should be provided. To protect from predators rabbit hutches should be situated in a fenced yard, [[shed]], [[barn]], or other enclosed [[structure]]. If rabbits are going to live outside in hutches, they should be housed in pairs or threes, as they are incredibly social creatures and need the company of another rabbit.
Rabbits require clean environments and all housing should be cleaned regularly to ensure that no build-up of feces or urine occurs. Rabbit droppings are often left in beds with red worms to create compost, added to compost bins for enrichment of the compost, or applied directly to a garden as a "cool" fertilizer that will not burn plants.
Rabbits require clean environments and all housing should be cleaned regularly to ensure that no build-up of feces or urine occurs. Rabbit droppings are often left in beds with red worms to create compost, added to compost bins for enrichment of the compost, or applied directly to a garden as a "cool" fertilizer that will not burn plants.
Rabbits require clean environments and all housing should be cleaned regularly to ensure that no build-up of feces or urine occurs. Rabbit droppings are often left in beds with red worms to create compost, added to compost bins for enrichment of the compost, or applied directly to a garden as a "cool" fertilizer that will not burn plants.
-
THE RISKS OF KEEPING YOUR RABBIT INDOORS
-
Predators
-
Cold weather
-
Illness
-
the benefits are immense when you house your bunny inside!<ref>http://www.sandiegorabbits.org/adoption/indoors.html</ref>



Rabbits are very intelligent animals, and so can easily be litter trained, which makes it much easier to clean them out. Rabbit-friendly litter must be used (lots of cat litters are not appropriate, due to dust etc.), and litter trays must be cleaned out every 2–3 days. The whole hutch should be scrubbed and disinfected once every week or two.
Rabbits are very intelligent animals, and so can easily be litter trained, which makes it much easier to clean them out. Rabbit-friendly litter must be used (lots of cat litters are not appropriate, due to dust etc.), and litter trays must be cleaned out every 2–3 days. The whole hutch should be scrubbed and disinfected once every week or two.
Rabbits are very intelligent animals, and so can easily be litter trained, which makes it much easier to clean them out. Rabbit-friendly litter must be used (lots of cat litters are not appropriate, due to dust etc.), and litter trays must be cleaned out every 2–3 days. The whole hutch should be scrubbed and disinfected once every week or two.



Revision as of 20:39, 3 November 2010

Template:Two other uses

Domestic Rabbit
Scientific classification
Kingdom:
Phylum:
Class:
Order:
Family:
Genus:
Oryctolagus

Species:
Binomial name
Oryctolagus cuniculus
(Linnaeus, 1758)

A domestic rabbit is any of the several varieties of European rabbit that have been domesticated. Male rabbits are called bucks; females are called does. An older term for an adult rabbit is coney (derived from the Dutch word konijn), while rabbit referred only to the young animals.[2] More recently, the term kit or kitten has been used to refer to a young rabbit. A young hare is called a leveret; this term is sometimes informally applied to a young rabbit as well.

History

Rabbits kept in battery cages for scientific experimentation

Phoenician sailors visiting the coast of Spain circa 1100s BC, mistaking the European rabbit for a species from their homeland (the rock hyrax Procavia capensis Hebrew: שפן סלע shafan sela), gave it the name i-shepan-ham. A theory exists that a corruption of this name, used by the Romans, became the Latin name for Spain, Hispania --- although this theory is somewhat controversial[3]. In Rome rabbits were raised in large walled colonies.

Selective breeding of rabbits began in the Middle Ages, when they were first treated as domesticated farm animals. By the 16th century, several new breeds of different colors and sizes were being recorded.

In the 19th century, as animal fancy in general began to emerge, rabbit fanciers began to attend rabbit shows in Western Europe and the United States. Breeds were created and modified for the purpose of exhibition, a departure from the breeds that had been created for food, fur, or wool. The rabbit's emergence as a household pet began during the Victorian era. The domestic rabbit continues to be popular as a show animal and pet. Rabbit shows occur in many places and are sanctioned in Canada and the United States by the American Rabbit Breeders' Association (ARBA).

Rabbits have and continue to be used in laboratory work such as production of antibodies for life-saving vaccines and research of human male reproductive system toxicology. The Environmental Health Perspective, published by the National Institute of Health, states, "The rabbit [is] an extremely valuable model for studying the effects of chemicals or other stimuli on the male reproductive system." According to the Humane Society of the United States, rabbits are also used extensively in the study of bronchial asthma, stroke prevention treatments, cystic fibrosis, diabetes, and cancer. Animal rights activists have opposed animal experimentation for non-medical purposes, such as the testing of cosmetic and cleaning products, which has resulted in decreased the use of rabbits in these areas.[citation needed]

Breeds

Holland Lop with black patches on white ("broken")

There are many different breeds of domestic rabbit, including the English Angora, Lionhead, Dwarf Hotot, Chinchilla, Dutch, Elfin, Flemish Giant, Himalayan, Netherland Dwarf, Holland Lop, Dwarf Lop, Silver, Silver fox, English spot, Continental Giant, Havana, Florida White, New Zealand, Rex, Polish, Jersey Wooly, Satin, and Mini Lop. As with breeds of dogs, rabbit breeds were selectively bred by humans at different times to achieve different, and perhaps more 'desired' characteristics (such as the long, fluffy hair of the angora), however this has caused a great different and variety of conditions (including eye, nose, dental, hip and spine). Care requirements have been greatly altered, as some new breeds need grooming a few times a day without fail, whereas others have a tendency to develop dental problems, such as the holland lop. Temperaments can vary slightly with breed and gender, as with any animal. There are over 47 rabbit breeds recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association in the United States. There are many more breeds of rabbits worldwide.

Most genetic defects in the domestic rabbit are due to recessive genes. These genes are carefully tracked by fanciers of the breeds who show them just as dog fanciers carefully check for hip/eye and heart problems rabbit fanciers extensively follow their own lines to remove unwanted defects.

Many dwarf breeds which are produced for the pet trade by non-fancier breeders are not carefully screened for health problems and still develop these defects as they are breed much like puppy mill animals, on a profit based mentality.

Diet

Domestic Rabbits' diets consist mostly of hay as an ingredient of commercially made rabbit pellets or fed as loose hay. Suitable hay consists of a wide variety of grasses and herbs. In contrast, lawn cutting is a poor choice for feeding as it contains very few species of grasses and no herbs. Rabbit raisers provide various varieties of hay including timothy-grass, orchard grass, oat hay and alfalfa, to replicate the rabbit's natural diet as a foraging animal. Studies have shown that domestic rabbits are highly adaptable to diets produced from locally available forage products in developing countries.[4] Overfeeding of leafy green vegetables often leads to diarrhea, and too many pellets or sugary fruits can lead to many problems.

Cecotropes (also called caecal pellets or soft cecal pellets) are mostly-digested food that rabbits defecate and subsequently reingest; a process known as refection or cecotrophy; a form of coprophagia. Usually, but not always, a rabbit will eat the pellets straight from its anus, and as such, many people do not know of this aspect of a rabbit's diet. Cecotropes are vitamin-rich and higher in protein and water than the common hard fecal pellets and allow resorption of some fiber that is not sufficiently digested during the first pass. Occasionally, the rabbit may leave these pellets lying about its cage; this behavior is harmless and usually related to an ample food supply. If their caecal pellets are consistently wet and runny, this can indicate either too little fiber or too many starches in the diet. This probably means that they need to be fed additional hay.

Rabbits as pets

Standard Chinchilla Domestic Rabbit

Rabbits have been kept as pets in Western nations since the 19th century. Like all pets, rabbits need a considerable amount of care and attention. Rabbits kept indoors with proper care can expect to live between 9 to 12 years.[5] Rabbits are especially popular as pets during Easter, due to their association with the holiday. However, animal shelters that accept rabbits often complain that during the weeks and months following Easter, there is a rise of unwanted and neglected rabbits that were bought on impulse or as Easter "gifts", especially for children.[6]

Housing

Domestic rabbits can be raised outdoors or indoors. Accommodations can range from an outdoor hutch to an indoor cage or pen to the free run of the home. Rabbits can be safely housed outdoors, in a fenced yard to protect from predators, with well situated hutches, sheltered from sun, wind and rain. Protective sheds or buildings called rabbitries house small hobby, to larger commercial rabbit herds. Rabbits are fairly easy to house train and are often furnished with an indoor cage and litter box. A rabbit's hutch or cage is often built or purchased as large as practical to offer the rabbit plenty of exercise. Rabbits can be provided enrichment toys such as balls, toilet roll tubes stuffed with hay, wicker balls etc. Food and water are provided using fixtures that are chew-proof and unable to be turned over. Such appliances include ceramic crocks, water bottles (or preferably a bowl), hopper feeders, and hay mangers.

Care

Rabbits are relatively inexpensive to keep when compared to larger animals such as dogs or horses. Rabbits raised in the United States do not require any vaccinations. Rabbits in the United Kingdom require viral haemorrhagic disease and Myxomatosis vaccinations. Veterinary care is fairly limited and disease is rare when raised in sanitary conditions. Regular brushing of the coat helps to decrease chances of fur ingestion which can lead to fur ball impaction of the stomach. Regular trimming of the rabbits nails is required if they live indoors where they can not dig.

Rabbits make fantastic pets and can be easily cared for by adults and older children. Even young children can learn much from keeping a pet rabbit provided they receive adult supervision and guidance. Rabbit caretakers must learn proper holding techniques in order that the rabbit feels secure. Improper holding can lead to strong kicks by the frightened rabbit. Other areas of care include proper sanitation of living quarters, food and water bowls, and litter boxes to prevent disease.

If you intend to keep a house rabbit, you will need to bunny-proof your home. Rabbits chew. It is important to protect all electrical cords, cables (think of your computer!) and paper products. You can buy cord protectors (preferably the spiral kind) to wrap exposed cords and cables. Store books high enough that your rabbit can't hop up on the shelf and pull them off. It's a good idea to buy a cheap small basket for the rabbit to chew and toss around.

Commercial rabbits

Meat rabbits

Meat-type rabbits being raised as a supplementary food source during the Great Depression
Domestic rabbit and dog.

Breeds such as the New Zealand and Californian are most frequently utilized for meat in commercial rabbitries. These breeds have efficient metabolisms and grow quickly; they are ready for slaughter by approximately 14 to 16 weeks of age.

Rabbit fryers are rabbits that are between 70 to 90 days of age, and weighing between 3 to 5 lb (1 to 2 kg) live weight. Rabbit roasters are rabbits from 90 days to 6 months of age weighing between 5 to 8 lb (2 to 3.5 kg) live weight. Rabbit stewers are rabbits from 6 months on weighing over 8 lb.

Any type of rabbit exhibiting "commercial" body type can be slaughtered for meat. Dark fryers (any other color but albino whites) are usually docked in price by packers because of the slightly darker tinge of the fryer (purely pink carcasses are preferred by consumers) and because the hide is harder to remove manually than the white albino fryers.

Well-known chef Mark Bittman says that domesticated rabbit tastes like chicken because both are blank palettes upon which any desired flavors can be layered [7].

Wool rabbits

Rabbits such as the Angora, American Fuzzy Lop, and Jersey Wooly produce wool. However, since the American Fuzzy Lop and Jersey Wooly are both dwarf breeds, only the much larger Angora breeds such as the English Angora, Satin Angora, Giant Angora, and French Angoras are used for commercial wool production. Their long fur is sheared, combed, or plucked (gently pulling loose hairs from the body during molting) and then spun into yarn used to make a variety of products. Angora sweaters can be purchased in many clothing stores and is generally mixed with other types of wool. Rabbit wool, called Angora, is 5 times warmer than sheep's wool.[citation needed]

Laboratory rabbits

Rabbits have been and continue to be used in laboratory work such as production of antibodies for vaccines and research of human male reproductive system toxicology. The Environmental Health Perspective, published by the National Institute of Health, states, "The rabbit [is] an extremely valuable model for studying the effects of chemicals or other stimuli on the male reproductive system."[8] According to the Humane Society of the United States, rabbits are also used extensively in the study of bronchial asthma, stroke prevention treatments, cystic fibrosis, diabetes, and cancer.

Animal rights activists generally oppose animal experimentation for all purposes.[improper synthesis?] The Draize test is still used commonly on rabbits. Albino rabbits are used in eye irritancy tests such as the Draize because rabbits have less tear flow than other animals and the lack of eye pigment make the effects easier to visualize.[citation needed]

Outdoor housing

Rabbits being raised on pasture at Polyface Farm

- DO NOT KEEP YOUR RABBIT OUTSIDE see http://www.rabbit.org/index.html to learn about the benefits of keeping your bunny indoors. Your rabbit will thank you!

Outdoor housing for rabbits is usually designed to provide protection from predators. It must provide protection from the elements in winter and keep them cool in summer heat. Whether housed indoors or out, all rabbits should be handled properly and enrichment items such as shelves, ramps or tunnels should be provided. To protect from predators rabbit hutches should be situated in a fenced yard, shed, barn, or other enclosed structure. If rabbits are going to live outside in hutches, they should be housed in pairs or threes, as they are incredibly social creatures and need the company of another rabbit. Outdoor housing for rabbits is usually designed to provide protection from predators. It must provide protection from the elements in winter and keep them cool in summer heat. Whether housed indoors or out, all rabbits should be handled properly and enrichment items such as shelves, ramps or tunnels should be provided. To protect from predators rabbit hutches should be situated in a fenced yard, shed, barn, or other enclosed structure. If rabbits are going to live outside in hutches, they should be housed in pairs or threes, as they are incredibly social creatures and need the company of another rabbit. Rabbits require clean environments and all housing should be cleaned regularly to ensure that no build-up of feces or urine occurs. Rabbit droppings are often left in beds with red worms to create compost, added to compost bins for enrichment of the compost, or applied directly to a garden as a "cool" fertilizer that will not burn plants. Rabbits require clean environments and all housing should be cleaned regularly to ensure that no build-up of feces or urine occurs. Rabbit droppings are often left in beds with red worms to create compost, added to compost bins for enrichment of the compost, or applied directly to a garden as a "cool" fertilizer that will not burn plants. - THE RISKS OF KEEPING YOUR RABBIT INDOORS

- Predators

- Cold weather

- Illness

- the benefits are immense when you house your bunny inside![9]


Rabbits are very intelligent animals, and so can easily be litter trained, which makes it much easier to clean them out. Rabbit-friendly litter must be used (lots of cat litters are not appropriate, due to dust etc.), and litter trays must be cleaned out every 2–3 days. The whole hutch should be scrubbed and disinfected once every week or two. Rabbits are very intelligent animals, and so can easily be litter trained, which makes it much easier to clean them out. Rabbit-friendly litter must be used (lots of cat litters are not appropriate, due to dust etc.), and litter trays must be cleaned out every 2–3 days. The whole hutch should be scrubbed and disinfected once every week or two.

Exhibition

Conformation shows

Show rabbits is an increasingly popular wholesome activity for individuals and families. Showing rabbits helps to improve the vigor and physical characteristics of each breed through competitive selection. County fairs are common venues through which rabbits are shown in the United States. Rabbit clubs at local state and national levels hold many shows each year. On any given weekend one may be able to find a show in most regions of the United Staes and the United Kingdom. Although only purebred animals are shown, a pedigree is not required to enter a rabbit in an ARBA-sanctioned show but is required to register your rabbit with the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). A rabbit must be registered in order to receive a Grand Champion certificate.[10] Children's clubs such as 4-H also include rabbit shows, usually in conjunction with county fairs. The ARBA holds an annual national convention which has as many as 25,000 animals competing form all over the world. The mega show moves to a different city each year. The ARBA also sponsors youth programs for families as well as underprivileged rural and inner city children to learn responsible care and breeding of domestic rabbits.

Show jumping

Rabbit show jumping, a form of athletic competition between rabbits, began in the 1970s and has since become popular in Europe, particularly Sweden and the United Kingdom. Any rabbit regardless of breed may participate in this kind of competition, as it is based on athletic skill.

Genetics

There are 10 color gene groups (or loci) in rabbits. They are A, B, C, D, E, En, Du, Si, V, and W. Each locus has dominant and recessive genes. In addition to the loci there are also modifiers, which modify a certain gene. These include the rufus modifiers, color intensifiers, and plus/minus (blanket/spot) modifiers. A rabbit's coat only has two pigments, pheomelanin (yellow) and eumelanin (dark brown). There can also be no pigment, causing an albino or white rabbit.

Color Genes

Within each group, the genes are listed in order of dominance, with the most dominant gene first. In parenthesis after the description is at least one example of a color that displays this gene.

Note: lower case are recessive and capital letters are dominant
  • "A" represents the agouti locus (multiple bands of color on the hair shaft). The genes are:
    • A= agouti ("wild color" or chestnut agouti, opal, chinchilla, etc.)
    • at= tan pattern (otter, tan, silver marten)
    • a= self or non-agouti (black, chocolate)
  • "B" represents the brown locus. The genes are:
    • B= black (chestnut agouti, black otter, black)
    • b= brown (chocolate agouti, chocolate otter, chocolate)
  • "C" represents the color locus. The genes are:
    • C= full color (black)
    • cchd= dark chinchilla, removes yellow pigmentation (chinchilla, silver marten)
    • cchl= light chinchilla (sable, sable point, smoke pearl, seal)
    • ch= Himalayan, body white with extremities ("points") colored in black, blue, chocolate or lilac, pink eyes
    • c= albino (ruby-eyed white or REW)
  • "D" represents the dilution locus. This gene dilutes black to blue and chocolate to lilac.
    • D= dense color (chestnut agouti, black, chocolate)
    • d= diluted color (opal, blue or lilac)
  • "E" represents the extension locus. It works with the 'A' and 'C' loci, and rufus modifiers. When it is recessive, it removes most black pigment. The genes are:
    • Es= steel (black removed from tips of fur, which then appear golden or silver)
    • E= normal
    • ej= Japanese brindling (harlequin), black and yellow pigment broken into patches over the body. In a broken color pattern this results in Tricolor.
    • e= most black pigment removed (agouti becomes red or orange, self becomes tortoise)
  • "En" represents the plus/minus (blanket/spot) color locus. It is incompletely dominant and results in three possible color patterns:
    • EnEn= "Charlie" or a lightly marked broken with color on ears, on nose and sparsely on body
    • Enen= Broken rabbit with roughly even distribution of color and white
    • enen= Solid color with no white areas
  • "Du" represents the Dutch color pattern, (the front of the face, front part of the body, and rear paws are white, the rest of the rabbit has colored fur). The genes are:
    • Du= absence of Dutch pattern
    • du= Dutch pattern
  • "V" represents the vienna white locus. The genes are:
    • V= normal color
    • Vv= Vienna carrier, carries blue-eyed white gene. May appear as a solid color, with snips of white on nose and/or front paws, or Dutch marked.
    • v= vienna white (blue-eyed white or BEW)
  • "Si" represents the silver locus. The genes are:
    • Si= normal color
    • si= silver color (silver, silver fox)
  • "W" represents the middle yellow-white band locus and works with the agouti gene. The genes are:
    • W= normal width of yellow band
    • w= doubles yellow band width (Otter becomes Tan, intensified red factors in Thrianta and Belgian Hare)

Health problems

Fly strike

Fly strike (a relatively rare condition in the United States) mostly affects rabbits kept in unsanitary conditions and is more likely to occur during summer months. Fly strike happens when flies (particularly the Botfly) lay their eggs in the damp or soiled fur of a rabbit. Within 12 hours, the eggs hatch into the larvae stage of the fly, known as maggots. It is often a secondary condition to an open wound, extreme feces accumulation on the fur of rabbits due to unsanitary living conditions, prolonged contact with water or other environmental favorable to fly larvae. The maggots, initially small and almost invisible to the naked eye, can burrow into the skin of the rabbit and feed on the animals tissue. Within 3–4 days, the larvae can be large as 15 mm long. In rare cases, if not treated, the rabbit can pass into shock and die. Rabbits most susceptible are rabbits living in unsanitary housing, older rabbits who do not move much, and those who are unable to clean their bottom areas carefully. Rabbits raised on solid floors are more susceptible than rabbits raised on wire floors. Rabbits exhibiting one or more episodes of diarrhea are often inspected, especially during the summer months.[11] In 2002, the medicine Rearguard was approved in the United Kingdom for a 10-week per-application prevention of Fly strike. Fly strike deaths are quick and extremely painful to the rabbit, as hundreds of larvae literally eat it alive.

Myxomatosis and West Nile Virus

Myxomatosis is a threat to the health of pet rabbits. Rabbits caged outdoors in Australia are vulnerable in areas with high numbers of mosquitoes. In Europe, fleas are the carriers of myxomatosis. In some countries, annual vaccinations against myxomatosis are available.

West Nile Virus is another threat to rabbits[12]. This is a fatal disease, and while there are vaccines available, they are not specifically indicated for rabbits. Recourse against the disease includes limiting the number of mosquitoes that are around pet rabbits.

Sore hocks

The formation of open sores on the rabbit's hocks, commonly called "sore hocks," is a problem that commonly afflicts mostly heavy-weight rabbits kept in cages with wire flooring or soiled solid flooring. The problem is most prevalent in rex-furred rabbits and heavy-weight rabbits (9+ pounds in weight). The condition results when, over the course of time, the protective bristle-like fur on the rabbit's hocks thins down. Standing urine or other unsanitary cage conditions can exacerbate the problem by irritating the sensitive skin. The exposed skin can result in tender areas or, in severe cases, open sores. The sores can become infected and abscessed if not properly cared for. The problem has a genetic component and animals exhibiting thin foot bristles should not be saved for breeding. Most rabbits can live safely on wire floors with the provision of a resting board or mat. Ultra heavy-weight breeds such as Flemish Giants or Checkered Giants are best raised on solid or partially solid flooring.

The House Rabbit Society recommends that rabbit cages with wire flooring be provided with a resting board in order to prevent this from occurring.[13] Alternatively, regular inspection can help head off the development of sore hocks.

Respiratory infections

An over-diagnosed ailment amongst rabbits is respiratory infection. Pasteurella bacteria, known colloquially as "snuffles," is usually misdiagnosed and has been known to be a factor in the overuse of antibiotics among rabbits.[14]

A runny nose, for instance, can have several causes, among those being high temperature or humidity, extreme stress, environmental pollution (like perfume or incense), or a sinus infection. Options for treating this is removing the pollutant, lowering or raising the temperature accordingly, and medical treatment for sinus infections.[14]

"Runny eyes" can be caused by dental disease or a blockage of the tear duct. Environmental pollution, corneal disease, entropion, distichiasis, or inflammation of the eyes are also causes. This is easy to diagnose as well as treat.[14]

Sneezing can be a sign of environmental pollution (such as too much dust) or food allergy.

While Pasteurella is a bacterium that lives in a rabbit's respiratory tract, it can flourish out of control in some cases. In the rare event that happens, antibiotic treatment is necessary.

Head tilt/wry neck/Encephalitozoon cuniculi (E. cuniculi)

Inner ear infections, certain protozoans, strokes, or other diseases or injuries affecting the brain or inner ear can lead to a condition known as wry neck or "head tilt." Although a heavy infestation of ear mites, an ear infection or injury can result in these symptoms, the most common cause of these symptoms is the protozoan parasite E. cuniculi. This condition can be fatal, due to a disorientation that causes the animal to stop eating and drinking. The drugs of choice for treatment and prevention of E. cuniculi infections are the benzimidazole anthelmintics, particularly fenbendazole. In the UK, Panacur Rabbit (containing fenbendazole) is marketed and recommended as a nine day course to help contain this condition and is a simple oral paste to medicate at home. It is sold over the counter. Users in the US or other countries will need to consult with their veterinarians about use and dosage of fenbendazole.

Teeth problems

Dental disease has several causes, namely genetics, inappropriate diet, injury to the jaw, infection, or cancer.

  • Malocclusion: Rabbit teeth are open-rooted and continue to grow throughout their lives. In some rabbits, the teeth are not properly aligned, a condition called malocclusion. Because of the misaligned nature of the rabbit's teeth, there is no normal wear to control the length to which the teeth grow. There are three main causes of malocclusion, most commonly genetic predisposition, injury, or bacterial infection. In the case of congenital malocclusion, treatment usually involves veterinary visits in which the teeth are treated with a dental burr (a procedure called crown reduction or, more commonly, teeth clipping) or, in some cases, permanently removed.
  • Molar spurs: These are spurs that can dig into the rabbit's tongue and/or cheek causing pain. These can be filed down by an experienced veterinarian with a dental burr.

Signs of dental difficulty include difficulty eating, weight loss and small stools, anorexia, and visibly overgrown teeth. However, there are many other causes of ptyalism, including pain due to other causes.[15] A visit to an experienced rabbit veterinarian is strongly recommended in the case of a wet chin, or excessive grooming of the mouth area.

Gastrointestinal stasis

Gastrointestinal stasis is a serious and potentially fatal condition that occurs in some rabbits in which gut motility is severely reduced and possibly completely stopped. When untreated or improperly treated, GI stasis can be fatal in as little as 24 hours.

GI stasis is the condition of food not moving through the gut as quickly as normal. The gut contents may dehydrate and compact into a hard, immobile mass (impacted gut), blocking the digestive tract of the rabbit. Food in an immobile gut may also ferment, causing significant gas buildup and resultant gas pain for the rabbit.

The first noticeable symptom of GI stasis may be that the rabbit suddenly stops eating. Treatment frequently includes subcutaneous fluid therapy (rehydration through injection of saline solution under the skin), drugs for treatment of the buildup of gas in the digestive tract, massage to promote gas expulsion and comfort, possible drugs to promote gut motility, and careful monitoring of all inputs and outputs. The rabbit's diet may also be changed as part of treatment.

Some rabbits are more prone to GI stasis than others. The causes of GI stasis are not completely understood, but common contributing factors are thought to include:

  • a lack of fiber in the diet. Many pet rabbits do not get sufficient fresh grass hay, but are instead mistakenly fed only commercial alfalfa pellets originally developed for rapidly increasing mass in rabbits bred for meat.
  • insufficient moisture in the diet. Fresh, leafy greens are a critical part of a rabbit's diet in part because of their moisture content, which helps prevent the gut contents from becoming impacted.
  • lack of exercise. Rabbits confined to a cage frequently do not get the opportunity (or motivation) to run, jump, and play, which is critical in maintaining gut motility.

In addition, GI stasis can be caused by the rabbit not eating for other reasons, such as stress, dental problems, or other unrelated health problems.

GI stasis is sometimes misdiagnosed as cat-like "hair balls" by veterinarians not familiar with rabbit physiology.[16][17] However, unlike cats, rabbits do not have the ability to vomit.

Veterinary care

Rabbits visit the vet for routine check ups, vaccination and when ill or injured. Some veterinary surgeons have a special interest in rabbits and some have extra qualifications. In the UK the following post graduate qualifications demonstrate specialist training in rabbits: Certificate in Zoological Medicine, Diploma in Zoological Medicine and Recognised specialist in Rabbit Medicine and Surgery [18].

Routine checkups

Routine check ups usually involve assessment of weight, skin, health and teeth by the owner or a veterinarian. This is essential because a rabbit's health and welfare can be compromised by being overweight or underweight or by having dental problems. Checking the teeth is particularly important part of the examination as back teeth can only be seen with a otoscope. Veterinarians can also give personalised advice on diet and exercise.

Vaccinations

Rabbits should be vaccinated against Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease in the UK[19]. These vaccinations are usually given annually, two weeks apart. If there is an outbreak of Myxomatosis locally this vaccine can be administered every six months for extra protection [20]. However, Myxomatosis immunisations are not available in all countries, including Australia, because of the risk that immunity will pass onto wild rabbits, which is what the disease was created for (the extermination of wild rabbits).

Worming

Some vets now recommend worming all rabbits against the parasite Encephalitozoon cuniculi. Some studies have indicated that in the UK over 50% of rabbits may be infected with this parasite. Fenbendazole is used as a deworming agent in other species of animal and has shown to be effective in treating rabbits. In the UK it is now sold in paste form as a treatment for rabbits under the brand name Panacur. It is particularly recommended for rabbits kept in colonies and before mixing new rabbits with each other.[21]

Ill or Injured

Rabbits should be taken to the vet if ill or injured beyond the ability of the owner to treat. It is important to seek urgent veterinary attention if a rabbit has any of the following symptoms: dramatic or sudden loss of appetite, severe depression[22], breathing problems[23], sudden onset of head tilt, signs of maggot infestation [24], not passing stools. Rabbits also need urgent veterinary attention if they are exposed to poisons, involved in an accident, fall from a height or are exposed to smoke. Rabbits that are drooling, have unexplained weight loss, diarrhoea or fur loss should also be taken to the vet but it may be safe to wait until office hours. There are many other symptoms for which a rabbit requires veterinary attention.

See also

References

  1. ^ Template:IUCN2006 1996 database entry states species is of domesticated and includes an annotation that the information is in need of an update.
  2. ^ Online Etymology Dictionary
  3. ^ Anthon, Charles. A System of Ancient and Mediæval Geography for the Use of Schools and Colleges pg.14
  4. ^ J.A. Lowe (2006). "Pet Rabbit Feeding and Nutrtion". The Nutrition of the Rabbit: 309–323. {{cite journal}}: Italic or bold markup not allowed in: |journal= (help)
  5. ^ "What's the lifespan of a rabbit?". House Rabbit Society. Retrieved 2007-10-11.
  6. ^ ABC7 Chicago (TV station) article "Easter Rabbits"
  7. ^ "How to Cook Everything :: Braised Rabbit with Olives". 2008. Archived from the original on 2008-05-17. Retrieved 2008-07-17.
  8. ^ Morton, Daniel (1988). "The use of rabbits in male reproductive toxicology" (PDF). Environmental Health Perspectives. 77. National Institute of Health: 5–9. doi:10.2307/3430622. JSTOR 3430622. PMC 1474531. Retrieved 2010-07-16. {{cite journal}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  9. ^ http://www.sandiegorabbits.org/adoption/indoors.html
  10. ^ "Official Show Rules". American Rabbit Breeders Association. 2009. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  11. ^ House Rabbit Society: Fly strike
  12. ^ http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/westnile/qa/transmission.htm
  13. ^ "Caring for Rabbits in Animal Shelters". House Rabbit Society. Retrieved 2008-06-18. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  14. ^ a b c Respiratory Disease by Dr. Susan A. Brown DVM
  15. ^ MediRabbit: Differential Diagnosis for Ptyalism
  16. ^ House Rabbit Society: Sluggish Motility in the Gastrointestinal Tract
  17. ^ University of Miami Department of Biology: Gastrointestinal Stasis, The Silent Killer
  18. ^ The Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons http://www.rcvs.org.uk/Templates/Internal.asp?NodeID=94964
  19. ^ British Veterinary Association Rabbit Care Downloads http://www.link2content.co.uk/uploads/bva/rabbit.pdf
  20. ^ http://www.intervet.co.uk/binaries/92_114377.pdf Intervet vaccination literature.
  21. ^ http://www.houserabbit.co.uk/resources/content/info-sheets/ecuniculi.htm RWAF Encephalitozoon Cuniculi
  22. ^ Harcourt-Brown F (2002). "Anorexia in rabbits 2". In Pract. 24 (8): 450–67.
  23. ^ Paul-Murphy J (2007). "Critical care of the rabbit". Vet Clin North Am Exot Anim Pract. 10 (2): 437–61. doi:10.1016/j.cvex.2007.03.002. PMID 17577559.
  24. ^ Cousquer G , 28: (2006). "Veterinary care of rabbits with myiasis". In Pract. 1028 (6): 342–349. {{cite journal}}: line feed character in |author= at position 11 (help)CS1 maint: extra punctuation (link) CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)

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