Spectator shoe

Men's Oxford full brogue spectator shoes, c. 1930

The spectator shoe, also known as co-respondent shoe, is a style of low-heeled, oxford, semi-brogue or full brogue constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker colour than the main body of the shoe. This style of shoe dates from the nineteenth century but reached the height of popularity during the 1920s and 1930s.

Description

Common colour combinations include a white shoe body with black, brown or tan toe and heel caps, but other colours can be used. The spectator is typically an all leather shoe, but can be constructed using a canvas, mesh or suede body. The spectator was originally constructed of willow calf leather and white buck or reverse calf suede. The white portion was sometimes made from a mesh material, for better ventilation in hot weather.

Saddle shoe

The saddle shoe, another style of two-tone oxford shoe, can be distinguished from the spectator shoe by noting the saddle shoe's plain toe and distinctive, saddle-shaped decorative panel placed mid foot.

Origin of name

John Lobb, the famous English footwear maker, claimed to have designed the first spectator shoe as a cricket shoe in 1868.

In the 1920s and 1930s in England, this style was considered too flamboyant for a gentleman, and therefore was called a tasteless style. Because the style was popular among lounge lizards and cads, who were sometimes associated with divorce cases, a nickname for the style was co-respondent shoe, a pun on the colour arrangement on the shoe, and because "co-respondent" is the legal description of a third party caught in flagrante delicto with the guilty party in a case of adultery. Wallis Simpson was famed for wearing this style, although it was said that she was an adulteress and that it was Edward VIII who acted the part of co-respondent.

In popular culture

In J. G. Ballard's novel and Steven Spielberg's film Empire of the Sun, protagonist Jim Graham (Christian Bale) covets a fellow prisoner's spectator golf shoes. After the prisoner dies, he is given the shoes as a gift from Dr. Ransome (Nigel Havers).

In the 1992 film Hoffa, Jack Nicholson and Danny DeVito were supplied with spectators from Wisconsin shoemaker Allen Edmonds (specifically the Broadstreet model).

In the 1920s-set crime drama, "Boardwalk Empire", the character Enoch "Nucky" Thompson, can be seen wearing pink-and-black spectators, especially in the opening credits sequence.

In Vikram Seth's novel and television adaptation A Suitable Boy, Haresh Khanna is a manager of a shoe factory who is disparaged for his 'co-respondent shoes'.

In Doctor Who, the Seventh Doctor (Sylvester McCoy) wore a pair of spectator shoes.

In the 2020 movie Tenet, Neil can be seen wearing spectator shoes.

In Kate Atkinson's 2022 novel Shrines of Gaity, set in 1926 London, the character Landor wears co-respondent shoes.

References

• Benstock, Shari; Ferriss, Suzanne, eds. (2001). Footnotes: on shoes. Piscataway, New Jersey, United States of America: Rutgers University Press. ISBN 978-0-8135-2870-0. Retrieved 2010-11-04. This kind of men's decorative shoe dates from the late nineteenth century but became popular in the 1920s and 1930s.
• Drummond, Sharon (2010). "History of Footwear - Resources - Glossary". History of Footwear. Ryerson University. Archived from the original on 2010-10-20. Retrieved 2010-11-04. Brogue: A laced shoe with many sections, which are punched and serrated around the edges.
• Matthes, Betsy Durkin (2006). Dressing the Man You Love: A Woman's Guide to Purchasing, Coordinating, and Caring for His Classic Wardrobe (1st ed.). Shelter Island, New York, United States of America: Peter's Pride Publishing. ISBN 978-0-9773878-3-0. Retrieved 2010-11-04. A two-toned oxford shoe with either semi- or full- brougueing.
• Schur, Norman W.; Ehrlich, Eugene H.; Ehrlich, Richard (2007) [1987]. British English A to Zed (Third, revised and updated ed.). New York, New York, United States of America: Facts On File, Inc. ISBN 978-0-8160-6456-4. Retrieved 2010-11-04. The flashy, disreputable type, usually in brown and white